Jiffy 30 carb question. Pressed in fittings.

[burgerunh]

I am having an issue with my auger this year.  It was running great last year.  This year it will not stay running.  If it sits for a while it will start for one second and then quit.  After that it will not star again.  At times it is also siphoning fuel right through the motor and out the exhaust. 

I bought a rebuild kit and cleaned out the whole carb and rebuilt with new diaphragm, needle valve, seat, and o-rings for the jets.  I have rebuilt carbs successfully before this is not my first one.  Reset the jets to factory settings and tried to start.  Same result.  I have taken the carb apart twice now. 

The one thing I notice on the inside of my carb is that the low jet area has a pressed in fitting.  The high jet does not.  My carb kit came with 3 pressed on fittings.  I am wondering if I am missing one.

Also open to any other ideas.  Tried a new spark plug as well.  Fresh properly mixed fuel. Etc etc

I am very frustrated and just about ready to sell this thing for 50 bucks for parts and buy a new propane one.

[Fisherman 1]

At times it is also siphoning fuel right through the motor and out the exhaust. 

If it's "siphoning" gas through the motor and out the exhaust,  then your needle and seat are not sealing off 100%.  I have to ask the question, (not judging your mechanical skill) the rubber needle seat has 2 sides, one is smooth, the other has 2 circular ridges.  At the moment I can't remember, but it is critical to have the correct side facing the needle.

[burgerunh]

Which way does it go?  I have tried it both ways at this point.

[doneinne]

I'm having the same issue.  I did a rebuild and it is still leaking gas.  The original one I pulled out had the circular grooves down.  I just ordered a second rebuild kit to see if something was defective with the first.  After that I'm at a lost.  I'm ready to go electric.

[Fisherman 1]

It's in the forum somewhere,  there was a page someone put up with a diagram.   One further thing depending on the carb model.  There will be a letter such as "F" stamped on the flange, that will also indicate which way the diaphram goes on, with or without a gasket.  If the little t-i-t on the diaphram is on the wrong side, it can press on the end of the needle valve lever and allow the gas to run when it's not supposed to.   Cheers, hope it works out for you.

[RocketRollinSX]

It's in the forum somewhere,  there was a page someone put up with a diagram.   One further thing depending on the carb model.  There will be a letter such as "F" stamped on the flange, that will also indicate which way the diaphram goes on, with or without a gasket.  If the little t-i-t on the diaphram is on the wrong side, it can press on the end of the needle valve lever and allow the gas to run when it's not supposed to.   Cheers, hope it works out for you.

I was just going to say that.  If its an F series carb (Meaning there is an F stamped on the carb somewhere) the diaphragm goes against the carb body with the gasket under.  If its a non F series the gasket goes against the carb and the diaphragm on the bottom.  If the fuel is running out of it the needle is being pressed.  That's the only way gas is able to flow through the carb.  Sometimes the diaphragm gets stiff or warped.  The side of the diaphragm with the large metal disc goes against the needle.

Also, the needle seat goes in only one way.  One side the middle hole is slightly tapered, the other side isn't.  The tapered side has to go against the needle so it seats, otherwise gas with always run through it.

Also if your carb has 2 screws a high and a low screw.  The low screw which is the one closest to the motor turns 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated, the high screw turns 3/4 a turn out from lightly seated.  These will give you a good start to getting it dialed in.  The high screw is best to adjust on the lake when drilling holes.