IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: the force on Dec 24, 2017, 10:53 PM
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All, have any of you had issues with the mounting bracket for the side handle on the Milwaukee fuel hammer drills (2704 model with 1200"/lbs tourqe)? I've been out twice with a 6" auger and broken the wing of the mounting bracket off each time (new drill and a warranty replacement)! Not very impressed for a hi-end drill, and really do like using the side handle. I can return again but have no confidence in that piece. Once it is broken off it is basically useless.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/9bax7z0f1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9bax7z0f1/)
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Stop using the force. Or use the force without trying to shove the drill through the ice. I wonder what people are doing when they say that their Lazer auger binds or catches at the bottom of a hole. I've never experienced that phenomenon yet. I've never had the side handle slip or have problems, and I've been using a 20 year old, 8 inch Lazer.
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Lol, I'm sure I could break my Ridgid, if I choose to...
But hopefully common sense will always prevail..
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Get the clam plate, problem solved, also when done drilling, lays up off the ice
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Lol, no pun intended. Seriously though I've been drilling ice for 20 years and this was a 20 year old 6" normark (nothin excessive). I bought the mill to use it, if I wanted to girlythingfoot then probably would have saved a hundy or two and bought a mastercraft or ryobi.
Just a bit dissapointed... Drill puts out the tourqe but isn't designed to manage it unless I happened to get two lemons in a row.
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seems off.
your certain the aux handle was on square and proper i'm sure. any chance of being to over tighten it?
hopefully you bought them from homedepot and keep getting free replacements. also, if it keeps happening, maybe get a refund before the 90 days goes by and start over to get another 90 days.
i liked the loop mount for aux handles they used to use much better. had infinite angle adjustments and easy to have it stored on the tool but also out of the way. they need to bring it back.
i always use ridgid tools and it has this type of handle now too and uses a notch in the wedge so it has to sit just right to stay on correctly.
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seems off.
your certain the aux handle was on square and proper i'm sure. any chance of being to over tighten it?
I think, it being cast aluminum, you probably can over tighten it.. The jaws on the handle are steel...
Squared up and snug is all it needs...
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Old style was def better, that's what i had previously. Maybe over tightened the second time as I wanted to make sure it was square and tight... Will try number 3 I guess... 30 day over the counter exchange, no questions asked, not sure what happens after 30 days.
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Old style was def better, that's what i had previously. Maybe over tightened the second time as I wanted to make sure it was square and tight... Will try number 3 I guess... 30 day over the counter exchange, no questions asked, not sure what happens after 30 days.
Not trying to start a Dewalt/Milwalkee debate but I had heard of the handle issues before I made my purchase. I went with the Dewalt because of the side handle design of the Dewalt. Might not be too late to return the Milwalkee and get a Dewalt? Just throwing it out there as a possible option.
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All, have any of you had issues with the mounting bracket for the side handle on the Milwaukee fuel hammer drills (2704 model with 1200"/lbs tourqe)? I've been out twice with a 6" auger and broken the wing of the mounting bracket off each time (new drill and a warranty replacement)! Not very impressed for a hi-end drill, and really do like using the side handle. I can return again but have no confidence in that piece. Once it is broken off it is basically useless.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/9bax7z0f1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9bax7z0f1/)
It is the shock caused when the auger bit breaks thru. A few years ago I went round and round with Milwaukee about this same issue. They replaced 3 in a row before I finally bought a Clam plate. End of problem.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/osi293bzv/P1010083.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/osi293bzv/)
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Yankee - looks like yours is in hammer mode. You don't drill ice in that position, correct?
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Correct. You drill in the drill mode.
My adapter goes on in place of the chuck. Returning the drill to stock condition for return to Milwaukee the ring no-doubt got rotated.
Someone there knows that using the drill with a Lazer auger bit causes great shock to the auxiliary arm at break through because I was told my 3rd replacement was the last. The k-drill does not beat-up the drill like the Lazer does but slower drilling is the end result.
March 5, 2013 (dated picture) I drilled 51 holes, 16" of ice, 6" Nils auger bit, Milwaukee 720"# hammer drill. I ran out of gas before the Milwaukee.
the Nils auger bit cuts the fastest with not much shock at breakthrough but maintaining the edge is too costly. One place I fish the ice can be sandy and 10 holes can ruin the Nils edge.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/6pc4fdmq3/IMG_1013.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6pc4fdmq3/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/wmae5vky3/IMG_1017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wmae5vky3/)
There were more holes behind me when I took the picture.
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I have not been out to use my setup with this drill. Now having second thoughts about purchase and taking along a back up out which will defeat the purpose of less weight and space.
George in Throop PA
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so after three times your out? doesn't sound like a good warranty to me either. how do they get away with this?
the mud mixer sounds better for the job, but it will have the same warranty behind it. bare tool is 200$ new on home depot.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-FUEL-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-1-2-in-Mud-Mixer-Tool-Only-2810-20/302677799
sounds like clam plates are NEEDED even if you didn't want one to keep them going. i wounder how job sites work this problem out. no clam plates there. it is designed to drill 6" holes in petrified wood with a basket saw or even steel.
they should just go back to the clamp ring aux. handle design. ridgid and milwaukee (and ryobi) have the same parent company and both made this dumb move. i haven't broke the casing on any of my ridgid drills (yet). i also use lazer bits. probably a design change to make them more compact.
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Just wanted to note that the Milwaukee isn't designed for an ice auger. ;D
Has anyone heard of this side handle issue when using a K-Drill?
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Every Milwaukee setup I’ve seen has had the handle on the left side of the drill with the drill being operated by the users right hand. I wonder....if the handle were on the right side of the drill, would the torque/twist have a different pressure point? Or would the damage just happen on the other side of the drill?
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Just wanted to note that the Milwaukee isn't designed for an ice auger. ;D
Has anyone heard of this side handle issue when using a K-Drill?
I run the Milwaukee and K Drill using the side handle w/out clam plate. I've drilled hundreds of holes like this. I always put the side handle on the left side of the drill and operate the drill with my right hand. I never put much pressure on the side handle but just use it for stability. I never use the side handle to rotate or twist the position of the auger while drilling a hole in the ice. If I need to do that I use my right hand and the drill to keep it where I want it to be while drilling. You should be using the drill to account for the torque caused while drilling to keep the drill in the position you want while drilling. Not the side handle.
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I went with the drill option for the b
enifits of weight savings and size and will not be adding a clam plate for that reason. I did try it off the right hand side yesterday which seemed to hold up better though may need to switch it out for a Dewalt. Can drill holes without the handle but I much prefer the option of having it there.
I haven't looked at the dewalts, what kind of torque are they putting out?
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Stick with the Milwaukee and get the clam plate. Once you own one you will like it plus it saves the drill. The torque is absorbed by the plate plus you can sit it on the ice and the drill doesn't touch the ice. It doesn't add much more weight neither. Although this weekend im not using my machine on the ice yet so ill be dragging about 230 lbs lol.
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Clam plate solves the problem.
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Clam plate solves the problem.
. Sure does, and I like it not “laying” on the ice , it stands up !!
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Same problem here, using a Nils auger. I've broken two off. The system for attaching the handle sucks. Bought the clam plate. Just can't find an adapter to use it.
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I'm going on the second year with my M-18 fuel, side handle and mora strikemaster 8" auger. No issues with the side handle. I don't want the Clam Plate due to the increased weight, as well as being more complicated to take the drill off the clam plate. ANd I like keeping it in the case for transport to protect it before and after use.
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I had the same thing happen to me , I took it back and changed it out for the Dewalt because of the better set up on the side handle. I also got a $100 credit to my account because Dewalt was running a special on their hammer drill set-up.
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i'm not surprised this hasn't happened more. quite frankly, (not sayng this is what you are doing) i see tons of guys with their drills out on the ice putting lots of pressure on that little handle either unnecessarily or because they've got crappy auger bits.
that handle is for stabilization only. not as a lever.
i've been using dewalt/milwaukee drills for 20 years and usually when i've seen those lips break off the milwaukee or the ring break on the dwealt (i think the dewalt system is a better design) its been because of too much pressure being put on them. not because of defects.
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i'm not surprised this hasn't happened more. quite frankly, (not sayng this is what you are doing) i see tons of guys with their drills out on the ice putting lots of pressure on that little handle either unnecessarily or because they've got crappy auger bits.
that handle is for stabilization only. not as a lever.
i've been using dewalt/milwaukee drills for 20 years and usually when i've seen those lips break off the milwaukee or the ring break on the dwealt (i think the dewalt system is a better design) its been because of too much pressure being put on them. not because of defects.
Nail on the head man. I took out my M18 w/8” Lazer for its first time yesterday. After my first hole, I came to the conclusion of pretty much exactly what you said. The auxiliary handle is not a lever. Use the drill as the lever if you have too or better yet just brace it against your leg or use your wrist strength. No need to go past halfway on the trigger either. I see a lot of guys just dogging on these drill setups that after using mine yesterday, I can see where guys are having issues. Like you said though, not saying that that’s what the OP is doing, but it can definitely contribute to unnecessary damage to the handle clamping area.
If I learned anything from yesterday, it’s to let the drill and auger do the job that we intended it to do. Drill the hole for us. About the only pressure I applied was just in keeping everything upright and square and that was very little, the drill and auger did the rest of the work very well. It took very little effort on my end.
Just like hand drilling holes, if your auger is in proper working condition, very very little pressure is needed to cut ice. When I see guys putting their body weight on their augers struggling to drill a hole, again like you said, it’s usually either not knowing how to properly use an auger (which is surprisingly a lot of guys I see) or they desperately need new blades. I can hear those poor augers screaming in agony lol.
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This is my second year with an m18 and an 8 inch k drill, I drill with my left hand. No problems with the side handle at all, never even worried or thought about it all.
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The mounting provision on my M18 broke this weekend where the side handle attached. Probably about 25 holes total. Did not put force on my Nils.
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I know there are a lot of guy saying u don’t need the “plate” but it eliminates the whole problem. Sure it’s another $60-70 but your worries will be over, I didn’t want any problems and bought one 3 years ago and would do it again
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I know there are a lot of guy saying u don’t need the “plate” but it eliminates the whole problem. Sure it’s another $60-70 but your worries will be over, I didn’t want any problems and bought one 3 years ago and would do it again
With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.
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With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.
. Oh I see, guess have to put up with it then !
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With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.
There's plenty of ways to make a quick disconnect to use the plate to turn an anchor...
I know if I was to need a bunch of quick anchors (hub on windy days) I would find a way to use one of my impact drivers for that rig.. Uses same batteries anyway..
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There's plenty of ways to make a quick disconnect to use the plate to turn an anchor...
I know if I was to need a bunch of quick anchors (hub on windy days) I would find a way to use one of my impact drivers for that rig.. Uses same batteries anyway..
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Or buy a cheap lithium-ion battery drill at Walmart or Tractor Supply!! ;)
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or grab a cheap old hand drill from the pawn shop and drill pilot holes.
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Well..... contrary to my previous posts.... my handle snapped off on the first hole today doing everything I said to do lol. Good thing going slow drills just as well. Still drilled about 10 holes after the first one and honesty it isn’t any more difficult without the auxiliary handle. Needless to say, looks like a clam plate is in my future....
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Well..... contrary to my previous posts.... my handle snapped off on the first hole today doing everything I said to do lol. Good thing going slow drills just as well. Still drilled about 10 holes after the first one and honesty it isn’t any more difficult without the auxiliary handle. Needless to say, looks like a clam plate is in my future....
That stinks!
Seems like this is only happening this season on new drills. Milwaukee must have changed the alloy that piece is cast from...
Can't remember hearing about this last few seasons..
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Me either! Most of the reason I went this route this year was the handle. Story of my life lol. It’s still 100% better than tiring myself out hand drilling 8” holes though. I’m highly considering stepping down to a 6” considering I fish panfish most of the time anyways. I’m not even sure if it’s worth contacting Milwaukee about. I got it over the summer so there’s no “90 day” anything like that.
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I read through this thread a couple days ago. I use the 2704 with handle on my 8" Nils.
Buddy of mine wanted to go electric on his 8" lazer. He bought the 2704 online and it won't be coming till next week and asked me to try it out with my 2704.
Sure, but we're not using my handle. :) I drilled a few holes and told him to get the CLAM PLATE.
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I read through this thread a couple days ago. I use the 2704 with handle on my 8" Nils.
Buddy of mine wanted to go electric on his 8" lazer. He bought the 2704 online and it won't be coming till next week and asked me to try it out with my 2704.
Sure, but we're not using my handle. :) I drilled a few holes and told him to get the CLAM PLATE.
He could also think about exchanging the 2704 for a Mud Mixer if he prefers to not use the plate. I assure you he will not have a handle problem with the Mixer.
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The Milwaukee Mud Drill has some specs that could be a problem for ice drilling. It does not have a clutch, it has a button triggerlock and a max 550 rpm. So what could possibly go wrong? Someone locks the trigger at a higher rpm, the auger bit binds and locks, then comes a test - can you unlock the trigger fast enough or you enter a torque test between your wrists vs the auger bit vs the drill torque vs the battery. If it ripped the handles out of your hands how long do you have to wait for the battery to wear down before the drill stops spinning around in the hole? :whistle:
p.s. My buddy has a M18 with a Nils auger and I never felt any torque at breakthrough of the bottom of the hole. Some reports above say the Lazer auger develops torque at the bottom of the hole.
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Was out yesterday drilling in 12 inches of good solid ice. My Milwaukee drilled no problems what so ever without the hand lever using a six inch k-drill. I chase panfish. I have heard of a lot of issues with the lever and Mora augers. Blades becoming unscrewed pop off and bind up. Then lever breaks offs.
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Was out yesterday drilling in 12 inches of good solid ice. My Milwaukee drilled no problems what so ever without the hand lever using a six inch k-drill. I chase panfish. I have heard of a lot of issues with the lever and Mora augers. Blades becoming unscrewed pop off and bind up. Then lever breaks offs.
Well. In my short lived side-handle experience, it’s almost as if if the side-handle was an after thought. It didn’t matter how well it was seated. The clamping area can’t handle the amount of torque, not enough surface area on the drill housing or the handle clamp. No matter how tight, it starts twisting and eventually....SNAP! Mine drills just as fine without it on a 8” Lazer though. Go slow and everything is gravy.
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People breaking handles might not be drilling properly I think. The side handle is to stabilize, not absorb torque.
Stick your leg/knee on the side of the battery to absorb the torque, if there is any.
Year 3 of Milwaukee drill with Lazer auger. 1.5 years with an 8".
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The Milwaukee Mud Drill has some specs that could be a problem for ice drilling. It does not have a clutch, it has a button triggerlock and a max 550 rpm. So what could possibly go wrong? Someone locks the trigger at a higher rpm, the auger bit binds and locks, then comes a test - can you unlock the trigger fast enough or you enter a torque test between your wrists vs the auger bit vs the drill torque vs the battery. If it ripped the handles out of your hands how long do you have to wait for the battery to wear down before the drill stops spinning around in the hole? :whistle:
p.s. My buddy has a M18 with a Nils auger and I never felt any torque at breakthrough of the bottom of the hole. Some reports above say the Lazer auger develops torque at the bottom of the hole.
I have probably the first mud mixer to be used as a power head for a K-drill in the US.
Far as I'm concerned it's also one of the best power heads for a K-drill for a number of reasons.
Number one is no clutch to wear out.
Heavier gear box than most drills and a larger motor.
No side handles to break off, and can be set up for right or left handers.
As far as locking the trigger on, not sure why one would lock it on while drilling? It's not real easy to even lock the trigger on.
The k-drill (not sure of others) was designed to run 500-700 rpms, so not a problem run with the mud mixer.
A little bit of machine work on the K-drill spindle and a Quik-lock chuck on the mud mixer and it's a perfect pair----as far as I'm concerned.
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People breaking handles might not be drilling properly I think. The side handle is to stabilize, not absorb torque.
Stick your leg/knee on the side of the battery to absorb the torque, if there is any.
Year 3 of Milwaukee drill with Lazer auger. 1.5 years with an 8".
That’s what I thought too. I don’t know how much more properly I could have drilled. My body literally braced the entire drill and at one point I drilled one handed. I wasn’t even going full bore. Half bore at most. It’s the cast aluminum housing coupled with too little surface area in both the housing and the handle clamps and a bunch of torque. I’ve seen nothing but raving reviews for this setup for the last 2 years. The problem has only been with the newer models. Mine included. Bought a clam plate 2 days ago and I’m going to pop it’s cherry tomorrow. I have zero doubts in its ability.
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I wanted to set up a cordless drill last year and read the reviews on the Milwaukee fuel with the 5 AH battery. Great drill with plenty of power but it has a serious design flaw with the handle. These drills have a ton of torque so an auxiliary handle is necessary to safely use it for an ice drill. I know several people who used the Milwaukee as the power sorce and all of them had issues with the handle. I elected to go with a Dewalt which has a much better design for their handle and have never had a problem.
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Honestly, the auxiliary handle isn’t even neccesary. Drill slower and just brace the drill and it works just fine. Going slower solves a lot of issues on it’s own.
Having said that though, the clam plate is f-ing sweet and makes everything easier. I recommend it for any drill setup especially with high torque drills and 8” augers. The Dewalt guys here seem to really like those drills though. The handles are definitely designed better.
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Going slower solves a lot of issues on it’s own.
True words ^
(https://s10.postimg.cc/mwuntfqd1/IMG_20180114_215831.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mwuntfqd1/)
(https://s10.postimg.cc/8qewy82n9/IMG_20180114_152930168_HDR.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8qewy82n9/)
Fast don't always get you to where you would like to be..
Little bit of a scare today, lol, rubbed dirt in it, all set..
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I somehow missed these posts about handle issues and mud mixers and got the hammer drill because it was everyone's go to. The handle is definitely a weak point. My Mora cuts nice until near bottom when it jams and jars the handle. It's not most of the drilling that is the problem but just that last sudden movement. I might try something to avoid using the handle. Same as someone above...I wanted to use one drill for anchors and holes but maybe using two with one on the plate makes more sense.
Warning to those in the market: the 2704 handle is not fantastic.
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On the subject, do you think it is better for the drill to have give at the handle than be locked into a clam plate and absorb that jarring motion? I will probably run with what I have but try and be careful and if it breaks go with a clam plate next year.
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think i would use it in screw mode and use the clutch to try to avoid breaking the casting.
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think i would use it in screw mode and use the clutch to try to avoid breaking the casting.
The drill has numbers too. which number to set it on ?
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i have a different brand, but i would think the highest clutch setting would be better than breaking things. it stands a chance to slip that way.
try it to find what number works best for your auger and ice conditions. start a little over mid way and work your way up if it keeps slipping. i think they go to 24 and i think that is the strongest setting. so try 15 or so and go up til you find the right number.
an 8 inch auger will need a higher clutch number than a 6 inch. and the brands and blades conditions will come into play also.
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Good technique
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I have an extension piece that has a disk on it in case it comes out of the chuck. Part of the extension has a piece of PVC that rotates freely. Without the handle on it I drilled this afternoon with my left hand running the drill and the drill against the left side of my body. I could also hold the PVC piece for support. Worked well. I won't be playing with the handle any more.
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That technique is OK if your auger drilled counter Clockwise. When my wrist got twisted the 2 times it did the drill twisted clockwise. And so I have my handle on my right side and that will work. The way he is showing you need the battery pack to be inline with your right leg if there is any torque coming from the auger to the drill the battery pack will hit your right leg. Interesting how they made this video and had no clue on what the torque would do. I guess that is because the Kdrill doesn't catch at the bottom of the hole like Strikemasters and some others.
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I snapped the casting twice on mine. Used it with the handle and without afterwards. I bought the clam plate this season. Solves all the problems, and doesn't create any new issues, other than it weighs a little more. In my opinion, it is the way to go.
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A simple fix is to add a lock washer behind the lock mechanism toward the handle. This insures that the handle will not loosen up. I think a lot of the breakage occurs when the handle loosens and creates an uneven pressure on the housing. I did this after the handle loosened on me and LOL, I said "Hey, genius fix this". Never had a problem after adding lock washer for what ($.11).
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That technique is OK if your auger drilled counter Clockwise.
The "drill bit" in that video is right hand (clockwise).. Is that Nero a left hand, (counter clockwise) ?
It looked left hand in those Russian videos, but I thought someone said it was actually right hand?
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