Jiffy Legend auger troubles " jumps around and gets stuck"

[5575]

Wondering if someone can help me out, I've got an older legend 31 Jiffy.
It used to just get stuck right before busting through every time so you'd have to raise it and hit it again. Now days its gotten tougher and even gets stuck.
It also wants to jump around allot  when you first start out, I think the pilot bit may need to be filed up on to fix that but I'm not sure.

I've put new ripper blades on but mine are touching the pilot bit, others I've seen in photos don't do this. I'm thinking maybe the pilot is bent or twisted a bit maybe?

Here are some photos, thanks for the help!

[gamefisher]

Wondering if someone can help me out, I've got an older legend 31 Jiffy.
It used to just get stuck right before busting through every time so you'd have to raise it and hit it again. Now days its gotten tougher and even gets stuck.
It also wants to jump around allot  when you first start out, I think the pilot bit may need to be filed up on to fix that but I'm not sure.

I've put new ripper blades on but mine are touching the pilot bit, others I've seen in photos don't do this. I'm thinking maybe the pilot is bent or twisted a bit maybe?

Here are some photos, thanks for the help!

Take a flat file to the point itself, problem solved.

[Chris338378]

I don't have a Jiffy auger but here's the best advice I can give you.  Since it's jumping around when you start out and is getting, "stuck", I would suggest changing the center point (bit) and the blades.  Also make sure the blades are the correct size because they shouldn't be touching the centering point.

[5575]

Is it ok that the blade is so close to the pilot bit?
My pilot bit is welded it can't be adjusted.

[Chris338378]

I'm not positive but all the pictures I've seen the blade is close to not touching the centering point.  Is it possible that you put the blades on backwards?  I'm not sure why your centering point is welded in place but I think that should be a replaceable, I know it is on the Eskimos.  Look above to make sure there isn't a bolt going through the auger bit higher up.

[gamefisher]

Is it ok that the blade is so close to the pilot bit?
My pilot bit is welded it can't be adjusted.

Yeah, they never go good when you have the blade on wrong.

[lefty2053]

I am not sure but I think the blade is upside down. Shouldn't the cutting edge be facing up and not dow as in the pictures?

[Chris338378]

The Jiffy online manual says:

BLADE TEETH REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS – When
replacing blade teeth, the beveled edge of teeth and the head of the
capscrews should face the ice. The stamped part number on the
teeth should face away from the ice, as shown in the diagram. Use
two 7/16” wrenches to remove the capscrews and to retighten after
replacement

That being said I still don't think the centering point should be touching the blade.

[SLAYERFISH]

Dude the metal where the blade mounts is bent.  I had a 10" Strikemaster chipper that did that.  NEVER got it working right again-

[Drift Dodger]

Dude the metal where the blade mounts is bent.  I had a 10" Strikemaster chipper that did that.  NEVER got it working right again-

Yes you can clearly see the bottom plate is badly bent where the blade is mounted. That will likely remain a weak spot even if you can get it back straight.

[buz23]

Might even be cracked.

[Huntindave]

Might even be cracked.

Yes, the blade mounting area does indeed have a crack starting.  I suspect the area has bent down towards the ice.  This in turn put the blade too low in relation to the centering pilot bit.  Also the angle of the blade is now (because of the bent plate) way too aggressive which is causing the auger to bind and stick in the hole.

I too doubt that this auger can be saved and put back in proper working order for a reasonable cost.  It may be best just to replace it.

[SeisMec]

Time for a new auger shaft.  Jiffy manual and video show that bent part should be flat with the ring.

http://www.jiffyonice.com/EComStore/pages/BladeReplacement/ReplaceRipperBlade.aspx

http://www.jiffyonice.com/EComStore/ContentImages/File/2500%20and%203500%20Operating%20Manual%20updated%202010.pdf

Sorry for the bad luck!

Cliff

[MT_Boy]

That blade is 100% upside down

[5575]

Yes, the blade mounting area does indeed have a crack starting.  I suspect the area has bent down towards the ice.  This in turn put the blade too low in relation to the centering pilot bit.  Also the angle of the blade is now (because of the bent plate) way too aggressive which is causing the auger to bind and stick in the hole.

I too doubt that this auger can be saved and put back in proper working order for a reasonable cost.  It may be best just to replace it.

After looking I think Dave is right on this, I don't think I mounted the blades wrong pper my directions.



Maybe I'll try and bend it a little, but yes I agree its time for a new auger drill or maybe just a new auger altogether.
My buddy had a propane 8" with the other day, man that thing sure cut nice and easy. Anything bad about the propane units?
So many new ones out there, I'm sure they all make a good one. Just to many darn choices!
I am always having to mess with my choke and or my primer as I drill on mine. One of those augers that only the owner can cut ice with at this point! lol

[MT_Boy]

OOPS.  My bad.  I should have read more of the posts.  I just looked at mine as well and its the same.

[thewyler]

Jiffys with their lower gear ration have a more noticable effect when the clutch starts slipping, your cluch is getting worn, pull it apart, clean the inside in and out with brake cleaner, and it will give you a little bit. More use befor you replace the clutch altogether.

[after-4]

Check and see if a new auger has a extreme bend like that. I had a jiffy 30 and had to put a couple welds that broke on the flukes.

[SLAYERFISH]

Time to get a new one.  You will wonder why u waited so long. I know I did.