IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: ckfish on Feb 20, 2013, 09:40 PM
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So here is the problem, I have an eskimo mako 10 inch power auger, this is my third season with it. I changed the blades at the beginning of this season but it just isn't cutting as fast as it should. The blades are very sharp so I don't think anything is wrong with them. One thing I did not do was change the point. If I hold the auger out and apply NO pressure at all it takes over a minute to cut through around 14 inches of ice. If I apply pressure it will cut through in probably 45 seconds or so. I know you are not supposed to apply pressure when cutting but I've had multiple people operate this machine and maybe one of them started to do that and somehow messed it up? The engine runs perfect. When I apply no pressure it feels as if this blades aren't really digging in very well. Anybody know what could be wrong? I'm also considering changing to an 8 inch drill piece because 10 inch seems to just be too much. Can I put an 8 inch drill piece on the mako motor? Thanks in advance.
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I bought an 8" for my Z51 this year and it cuts like butter. Never apply pressure. I would take the blades off and touch them up and also the point could use some touch up as well. I used pressure one time out there and had to change my blades to get it to cut. Every since I only let the auger do the cutting and I would never let anyone else use it. If they need a hole drilled do it for them.
I watch a group of 6 guy's offer their gas auger to a guy last trip out and it took him almost 2 minutes to get through 30" of ice. He was leaning over the auger pushing down and tilting it back and forth and also lifting it up and down which will also bend or roll the blades over.
I was cutting through that 30" of ice in 25 seconds. No lie I drilled only 6 holes and each time it was 25 seconds tops. Let it do it's job.
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So you originally had a 10 inch but bought an 8 inch for it? and now that I have applied pressure just one time to my blades, I might as well get new ones?
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Does that drill have a center point? If so just as important to sharpen it with belt sander or file.
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Yes it does.
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Yes you can put an 8" bit on a mako. All the eskimo powerheads are the same connector. You could even put a 6" bit on it if you could find one.
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I'm thinking about putting an 8 inch bit on but it would cost $140. The 10 inch is just really annoying and I can't figure out why it hardly cuts.
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So you originally had a 10 inch but bought an 8 inch for it? and now that I have applied pressure just one time to my blades, I might as well get new ones?
No you can sharpen your blades. I sharpen mine all the time. Fine stone works good. Don't touch the flat side except to touch up when done. If you go in a circular motion and keep the correct angle of the blades it doesn't take much to make them sharp again. Just don't over do it. I usually take a magic marker and cover the cutting edge. I then use a stone on it and only take off enough to get rid of the marker marks.
I got new blades as I like to have one set ready if I need them. You never know when you will run into sand,dirt ,someones charcoal for grilling or anything else that will dull blades fast.
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So here is the problem, I have an eskimo mako 10 inch power auger, this is my third season with it. I changed the blades at the beginning of this season but it just isn't cutting as fast as it should. The blades are very sharp so I don't think anything is wrong with them. One thing I did not do was change the point. If I hold the auger out and apply NO pressure at all it takes over a minute to cut through around 14 inches of ice. If I apply pressure it will cut through in probably 45 seconds or so. I know you are not supposed to apply pressure when cutting but I've had multiple people operate this machine and maybe one of them started to do that and somehow messed it up? The engine runs perfect. When I apply no pressure it feels as if this blades aren't really digging in very well. Anybody know what could be wrong? I'm also considering changing to an 8 inch drill piece because 10 inch seems to just be too much. Can I put an 8 inch drill piece on the mako motor? Thanks in advance.
this post is me to a T, same year and auger model. It will NOT drill holes, without applying pretty good down force. I figure it is because it's a 10"?? I'm the only one in our group with a 10", and I've never ran any other 10"'s to compare. New blades a week ago, same as always. The auger is a workout. My buddy has a new 8" Eskimo, and I have drilled with his on many occasions. WAY quicker and effortlessly to drill. I'm getting an 8" auger for it, or selling it before next season.
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this post is me to a T, same year and auger model. It will NOT drill holes, without applying pretty good down force. I figure it is because it's a 10"?? I'm the only one in our group with a 10", and I've never ran any other 10"'s to compare. New blades a week ago, same as always. The auger is a workout. My buddy has a new 8" Eskimo, and I have drilled with his on many occasions. WAY quicker and effortlessly to drill. I'm getting an 8" auger for it, or selling it before next season.
So I guess I'm not the only one. I'm thinking that I'm just going to buy the 8 inch and attach it to the motor head because nothing is wrong with the motor. It's gonna cost $140 though >:( >:(.
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yea, my engine runs like a top. prob should just get a 8'' auger for it.
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I would get the 8 and then just make sure the center point is sharp as well. You could check the 10 inch center point and see if it needs to be touched up.
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I also have the 10" Mako. I believe the 43cc engine is just a bit light for the 10 inch auger when ice conditions are kinda hard. My buddy has the 51 and it pushes the 10 inch auger fine. Other friends use the Mako 8 inch with no problems.
Oddly enough, I took the 7" auger off my Strikemaster electric and bolted onto the Mako....Holy hell that thing will flat drill a hole! And yes...it will bolt on to the Eskimo power head. no modifications.
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I would add...check your oil/fuel mixture to make sure it is correct. and also check spark plug. I was running a little rich on the oil side and plug was kinda fouled. IMO the Mako needs to be running almost perfect to drill right with the 10 inch auger. This just my observation and I am happy with my Eskimo products.
Mako 10" auger
QF4 popup
4 and 6 inch hand auger
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Being a 10'' has nothing to do with your augur not cutting. You should have replaced the pick the same time you replaced your blades. Your new blades may be sharp, but the angle of the blade may be off just enough to slow the auger down (factory defect), not allowing it to get a bite. You could try shimming the blade. I have seen blades put on backwards before too, cuts real slow.
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My point is fine, and is in mint condition. The auger has always performed like this since day one when I bought it new.
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That sucks, sounds like a factory defect some where with the cutting blades or auger out of line. My 10'' Eskimo just ripped through 130' of ice last trip out at 40'' of ice per hole.
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So the 2013-2014 season is here and I still have yet to solve this auger issue. I took some pictures of the bottom of the auger. If anyone could tell me if they see something wrong that would be great. I'm about to just a buy a new 8 in auger attachment. Any advice is appreciated.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j390/ckdrummer/photo37_zps83ebbb44.jpg)
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j390/ckdrummer/photo36_zps54974c99.jpg)
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j390/ckdrummer/photo35_zpsc3c58556.jpg)
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Well, from looking at the pic, it's hard to tell, but I think at least one of your blades is on upside down. With the auger standing upright, the beveled part of both blades should be UP, ie; you can see it. The FLAT part of the blade should be on the BOTTOM..(toward's the ice, can't see it when upright), if that's how your blades are on, then I'd say your angle of attack is out of alignment. Remember, "sharp" blades mean razor sharp, you're actually "shaving" the ice at high speed. You should be able to cleanly slice a piece of paper with them.
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Well, from looking at the pic, it's hard to tell, but I think at least one of your blades is on upside down. With the auger standing upright, the beveled part of both blades should be UP, ie; you can see it. The FLAT part of the blade should be on the BOTTOM..(toward's the ice, can't see it when upright), if that's how your blades are on, then I'd say your angle of attack is out of alignment. Remember, "sharp" blades mean razor sharp, you're actually "shaving" the ice at high speed. You should be able to cleanly slice a piece of paper with them.
Looking at the picture I see what you are saying. One blade has the smooth edge and the other appears to have a rough edge exposed. You're saying the smooth edge is what should be facing the ice?
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The FLAT edges should BOTH be facing down, or onto the ice. The ANGLED or BEVELED part of BOTH blades should be facing UP....and your blades are.......?
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thank you very much I'll be switching them around and testing it out once the ice gets a little thicker.
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You're very welcome! Please send $20. ;)2 :roflmao:
PS....Let us know how it performs now....
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Not to start a pissing contest, but lets be clear on which way "up' is. Sorry Rebel, but it appears to me that they are installed correctly-smooth side against the ice, bevel toward the sky when the auger is cutting. The beveled face should be towards the engine.
Forgive me if I am misinterpreting the pictures, after you punish me. ;D
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Piss all ya want. Doesn't bother me a bit. I just tried to help the guy out.
The FLAT edges should BOTH be facing down, or onto the ice. The ANGLED or BEVELED part of BOTH blades should be facing UP....and your blades are.......?
Not to start a pissing contest, but lets be clear on which way "up' is. Sorry Rebel, but it appears to me that they are installed correctly-smooth side against the ice, bevel toward the sky when the auger is cutting. The beveled face should be towards the engine.
Forgive me if I am misinterpreting the pictures, after you punish me. ;D
You just agreed with what I said. "Sky" would be up. At least it is around here. I usually look at an auger standing upright. IF they are reversed, as I can't tell for sure by the pic, then they are wrong. I have the same auger that zips thru the ice, and that's how MY blades and every other auger that I work on are set.
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If the blades are installed correctly, sharp and the center point is sharp, and it still doesn't cut to your satisfaction, the next step would be to shim the blades with a thin piece of aluminum, or maybe two pieces. Place the shim/s between the supporting steel and the blades on the side of the bolts towards the cutting edge. This will increase the angle of attack of the cutting edges making the auger cut more aggressively.
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Not to start a pissing contest, but lets be clear on which way "up' is. Sorry Rebel, but it appears to me that they are installed correctly-smooth side against the ice, bevel toward the sky when the auger is cutting. The beveled face should be towards the engine.
Forgive me if I am misinterpreting the pictures, after you punish me. ;D
If you look very closely at the picture, one blade is installed correctly and one blade is not.
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Look closer kiddo, both those blades are obviously on the right way -those type of blades have a minor(bottom) and major(top) bevel. The minor bevel will have a large sweep on the inside, the major bevel is a straight cut. Don't believe me, then look here at the major bevel http://www.landmsupply.com/department/sporting-goods/ice-fishing/augers/eskimo-10-quantum-replacement-blades. Rebells suggestion that one is upside down is wrong. You have at least two problems that are clear from those photos, your blades are roached(which is obvious even from a somewhat blurry photo) and at the very least the first turn of the flight has a very bad flat spot -probably from trying to straighten things out half way down a hole and or from standing on the poor thing while cutting. You need to either have the flight straightened out by someone who knows what they are doing or just throw it in the garbage and start over. Either way you might look into finding someone to show you the do's and don'ts of using a power auger.
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Look closer kiddo, both those blades are obviously on the right way -those type of blades have a minor(bottom) and major(top) bevel. The minor bevel will have a large sweep on the inside, the major bevel is a straight cut. Don't believe me, then look here at the major bevel http://www.landmsupply.com/department/sporting-goods/ice-fishing/augers/eskimo-10-quantum-replacement-blades. Rebells suggestion that one is upside down is wrong. You have at least two problems that are clear from those photos, your blades are roached(which is obvious even from a somewhat blurry photo) and at the very least the first turn of the flight has a very bad flat spot -probably from trying to straighten things out half way down a hole and or from standing on the poor thing while cutting. You need to either have the flight straightened out by someone who knows what they are doing or just throw it in the garbage and start over. Either way you might look into finding someone to show you the do's and don'ts of using a power auger.
x2 on the blades , but I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me with the flight , just set them down and let them do their job
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Last picture sure looks like chips on the blade. When you sharpen them you also need to touch up the flat side so there isn't any rough edges. If the bottom of the blades have rolled over you are putting too much pressure on the blades. Let the auger do the cutting and never push down like you would on a hand auger. Just a few stokes keeping the correct angle of the blades will sharpen them. the just a slight touch up on the bottoms. Good luck.
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ckfish, let's make this as easy as possible for you. I have two Eskimo's in front of me right now...one brand new out-of-the-box, and my Stingray, (Last pic) both with the Quantum blades. As you can see, the blade portions are FLAT and smooth that contact the ice, and the bevel faces UP towards the engine, as er, previously mentioned. ::) On the last pic, the blade on the left looks like the bevel is "down", it's not, it's smooth, just shadow from way the blades are milled.
This should settle the problem for you. Hopefully, that's the problem, and nothing major. Hope you're up and running soon!! Good luck!
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/Rebelss/DSC00434_zpsb7768ce8.jpg) (http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/Rebelss/media/DSC00434_zpsb7768ce8.jpg.html)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/Rebelss/DSC00433_zps654e69e1.jpg) (http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/Rebelss/media/DSC00433_zps654e69e1.jpg.html)(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/Rebelss/DSC00432_zps030e5920.jpg) (http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/Rebelss/media/DSC00432_zps030e5920.jpg.html)
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb456/Rebelss/DSC00435_zps3058600a.jpg) (http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/Rebelss/media/DSC00435_zps3058600a.jpg.html)
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Last picture sure looks like chips on the blade. When you sharpen them you also need to touch up the flat side so there isn't any rough edges. If the bottom of the blades have rolled over you are putting too much pressure on the blades. Let the auger do the cutting and never push down like you would on a hand auger. Just a few stokes keeping the correct angle of the blades will sharpen them. the just a slight touch up on the bottoms. Good luck.
Exactly. I use a Smith's hard Arkansas Stone and oil to hone mine.
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I'm not an authority on this but you may want to change the center point and also it could be that something is bent on the drill itself. I have had a 10 inch Strikermaster that I just sold recently. It always cut like crazy. I'm thinking there must be something that is causing it not to cut well.
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Quit confusing the poor kid rebelss, there is no mystery here -both his blades are orientated correctly. Is it that hard admitting you made a mistake in suggesting one may be upside down?
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I made no mistake, as I stated, I could NOT tell for sure from the pic, that's why I asked him.
I'm trying to make it easy for him, I read it as if he thought one might be upside down. If I made a mistake, I'll be the first to admit it...I've done it before. It's amazing how much you can tell from a blurry pic, I sure can't., that's why I asked. My advice to you is quit stirring the pot and let's try to help the poor kid out.
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Look closer kiddo, both those blades are obviously on the right way -those type of blades have a minor(bottom) and major(top) bevel. The minor bevel will have a large sweep on the inside, the major bevel is a straight cut. Don't believe me, then look here at the major bevel http://www.landmsupply.com/department/sporting-goods/ice-fishing/augers/eskimo-10-quantum-replacement-blades. Rebells suggestion that one is upside down is wrong. You have at least two problems that are clear from those photos, your blades are roached(which is obvious even from a somewhat blurry photo) and at the very least the first turn of the flight has a very bad flat spot -probably from trying to straighten things out half way down a hole and or from standing on the poor thing while cutting. You need to either have the flight straightened out by someone who knows what they are doing or just throw it in the garbage and start over. Either way you might look into finding someone to show you the do's and don'ts of using a power auger.
Can you read rebels? Stirring what pot? For anyone that knows what they are looking at those blades are absolutely in the correct orientation, no mystery. Twenty says you won't admit your error no matter how obvious it is.
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j390/ckdrummer/photo35_zpsc3c58556.jpg)
Clear as day.
This is the way the top of the blade looks:
(http://www.landmsupply.com/pb/lib/get_file.php?id=19321&key=f7c384fbdfc8ab4457e4afc5d2bc329f7a999a4e)
Very easy to tell the difference, for most at least.
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Yes, I can read. As stated, and the reason why I asked the OP, is I was unable to tell from the pics the orientation of the blades, as stated, in addition bolstered by ckfish's reply to me...
(Repy:)
"Looking at the picture I see what you are saying. One blade has the smooth edge and the other appears to have a rough edge exposed." OP admits blades MAY be wrong.
It STILL looks to me like the beveled edge is "down" or facing the ice, I can't tell you different.
You seem hell bent on turning this into a personal attack by nitpicking; if so, allow me to at least point out your mistake on the "minor bevel" ie; flat side...vs the "major bevel" on the degreed cut side. My goal,and only goal, is to help ckfish out, not argue semantics, which I refuse to do. If my statements that I am unable to tell for sure from the pics, and asking him how they are on is not enough of an explanation for you, so be it. You interpret as you see fit, and you are entitled to. However, allow me to suggest you don't bet that money against me, as you'll lose. Send it to ckfish to help him get this straightened out.
Let's allow ckfish to answer us when he determines what the problem is, then if you think I made a mistake, even after all the above suppositon, I'll be glad to apologize to you, to allay your concerns. I just ask that you donate that twenty to a worthy cause that will benefit someone truly in need. Enjoy your day.
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Howdy walkindude. Welcome to Iceshanty.
Something I've noticed over time, the folks that get on an unreasonable rant and don't label their location, soon enough become known as trolls, scream the loudest and lose the respect of others. You may be our all knowing savior, but I'm withholding judgement until you reveal more of your inner self, by presenting ideas that may seem alien to us. Would you like to be better included in our fold ? An excellent start would be completing your profile by including a location.
;)2
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Good points Rebelss & Idahogator.
Let's get back to the issue at hand which in the blades!!!!
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Ranting? Trolling? Really? By simply pointing out an error and helping a fellow angler out. Poor kid was convinced one of his blades was upside down when that clearly isn't the case. I showed him what was up, nothing more. What does my location have to do with it?
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wow KP that was almost moving as release just stated ;D but your right everyone was trying to help , and typing is just like texting there is no emotion as would be in a conversation (http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh190/filetandrelease/phone-shocker.gif) (http://s256.photobucket.com/user/filetandrelease/media/phone-shocker.gif.html)
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These were a new set of blades after I noticed my auger wasn't performing very well. The blades made no difference so I'm guessing I need a whole new bit because I know for a fact that this one has not been used correctly. I now know how to properly use the auger and do not plan on allowing anyone to use the auger once I do fix this problem. I'm not going to be able to test this out until this weekend at the earliest but I'll let you guys know. Right now I'm thinking that something is bent and is causing it to not cut correctly.
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I emailed eskimo and they just got back to me saying they think the point is the culprit (I switched the blades but not the point). Now the question is do I buy a new point or just say screw it and buy a whole new auger bit.
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Well, from looking at the pic, it's hard to tell, but I think at least one of your blades is on upside down. With the auger standing upright, the beveled part of both blades should be UP, ie; you can see it. The FLAT part of the blade should be on the BOTTOM..(toward's the ice, can't see it when upright), if that's how your blades are on, then I'd say your angle of attack is out of alignment. Remember, "sharp" blades mean razor sharp, you're actually "shaving" the ice at high speed. You should be able to cleanly slice a piece of paper with them.
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!!!!!!! That blade on the far side is upside down. Hello people?! He said he changed the blades due to performance. Hence he just didn't pay enough attention to detail (no offence) to when he put the new ones back on. Flip over that one blade so that the bevel is up and flat down and that thing WILL rip through the ice like a banshee. Seen that happen several times before, you're not the only one. Make sure you center point is sharp though. That is very important as well as spoken about.
Pat
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Just curious ckfish...does that auger wobble when running it??
Honestly I don't really know I'd have to run it again and see.
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Just curious ckfish...does that auger wobble when running it??
Hey KP, do you think it really could bend the auger bit? I mean those things are built pretty rugged. I don't think I've seen one before. Dented up a little, but not to the point it wouldn't cut or off center. I could imagine if it yard sailed from the bed of a pick up, but banging on the ice? I guess anything is possible. It's only metal.
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The overall bit where the blades are attached could be bent!!! NOT the "flight" side....the other side! Take a look.....the metal ring could potentially get bent, being open metal, with no support...... I could see that metal ring getting "reefed" on from being mis-used!
Agreed. My Jiffy doesn't have that ring so I would imagine it would be more prone to damage if leaned on hard the right way. I'll have to watch out for that if someone uses it. It only goes with me and if someone uses it, it's within eyes shot of me.
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Well, from looking at the pic, it's hard to tell, but I think at least one of your blades is on upside down. With the auger standing upright, the beveled part of both blades should be UP, ie; you can see it. The FLAT part of the blade should be on the BOTTOM..(toward's the ice, can't see it when upright), if that's how your blades are on, then I'd say your angle of attack is out of alignment. Remember, "sharp" blades mean razor sharp, you're actually "shaving" the ice at high speed. You should be able to cleanly slice a piece of paper with them.
was thinking the same looking at the picture about the blades being up side down. there is a flat side and a curved side try each side i am thinking the flat side should be down for some reason ?? but don't own the auger so cant look at one and tell you so i would try each side see what cuts better? ten inch augers like brace bit type are known not to cut that well. if any thing i would get a nills lol's but that just me after using a 8 inch last year! on 18 inches of ice in about 5 seconds your threw it is very fun with a 8 inch auger... by the way that is the hand auger i used... any thing past about 2 foot of ice your going to want a power nills lol's .
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trying to straighten out a hole could apply enough force to tweek it , just a thought
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Looks like your blades are on the right way. I have the same auger and my blades are on the same way and always have been. Order another center pick and removes your blades then the old pick. Replace the pick first, before putting the blades back on. This will save you from cutting your fingers trying to work around the blades. I tried drilling with new blades and an old dull pick and needed to put a new pick on. Good luck :)
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I bought a used MAKO 8" from a guy and I went out and drilled some holes and it cut about like you say yours does. I put new blades on it and a new point. Same thing. I looked him up and asked him if he ever had any problems and he said, " It cuts like a champ. Right before I sold it to you I drilled some Post Holes with it and it drilled them out lickety split." :wacko:
Needless to say, I found my problem. Mine doesn't have the ring around it either but what I ended up doing was putting some 22 ga. shims underneath and played around with the placements and now it cuts great. Last option, order a new auger bit but I would try the point, like eskimo said, and then shims. Definitely cheaper than the $140.
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Like the last post, I would try shimming your blades. Take a drinking straw, cut it to length to fit between the 2 screws. Place the shim between the blade and blade base. This will prove if your blade base is out of spec. Try 1 blade 1st. If it helps shim the other.
This will create a more aggressive bite on the ice.
The lead edge of your blades must be making contact with the ice when you start to turning you auger.
I kinda question the blade screws, are they hindering your lead edge of the blades?
Lots of auger info on Facebook ice auger sharpening
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Looking at the bottom picture I can see a nick on the outer tip of the upper blade. I can also see nicks on the lower blade.
While you might think the blade is razor sharp all it takes is one defect and it can't bite the ice.
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Let's not forget the hole being drilled starts at the point. I was told many times by old timers when I started ice fishing that when ever you change blades I always change the point also, I've always done this. It could be that the point is part of the problem since it wasn't changed.
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For those of you that care..I have confirmed that the blades are in fact installed correctly (they were from the start) it was the lighting of the picture that may have made it seem otherwise. The SMOOTH and flat edge is facing the ice while the BEVELED rough edge is facing the engine. Now I guess I'm going to have to try shimming I'll be testing the auger out tomorrow.
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Before shimming the blade check the point. It's been said, but that's because it's right, the two most likely causes are the tip being dull/bent and the blades being dull/nicked.
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Any luck yet?? We are all waiting to hear what the happened.
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I believe the blades are a big part of the issue although they were on correctly. I tried a different pair of blades that I had sharpened and they cut much faster than the ones I had on.
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My blades are new, on right, point is correct, and still drilling requires a LOT of down pressure. Does anybody know if the 6" ion auger will go on without mods, to a Mako viper head? Thanks!