IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: boder on Jan 07, 2018, 02:55 PM
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I need some help with my brand new drill setup.
I am running a brand new ridgid gen5 brushless compact hammer drill with an 8” Nils attached with kovac ice master. The problem I am having is that the drill keeps cutting out on me when I am drilling. It will drill for a second or two then stop. Wait a little bit press trigger again then drill again only to stop seconds later. When the drill spins it cuts great.
I started out with new battery that I kept in my coat pocket till I got to my spot. The drill was on the auger not protected from the elements. It is 25*f right now. Drill set up was on drill and 1 as thst got me the best preformace.
Anybody ever have any issues like this before? Advice? Thanks.
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I need some help with my brand new drill setup.
I am running a brand new ridgid gen5 brushless compact hammer drill with an 8” Nils attached with kovac ice master. The problem I am having is that the drill keeps cutting out on me when I am drilling. It will drill for a second or two then stop. Wait a little bit press trigger again then drill again only to stop seconds later. When the drill spins it cuts great.
I started out with new battery that I kept in my coat pocket till I got to my spot. The drill was on the auger not protected from the elements. It is 25*f right now. Drill set up was on drill and 1 as thst got me the best preformace.
Anybody ever have any issues like this before? Advice? Thanks.
With a brushless drill if the load gets to be to much it will shut the drill down before it is injured. What is the in/lbs of your drill? It might not be strong enough to turn an 8in. my Milwaukee 725in lb drill did and the 1200in/lb is like the auger is hardly there.
If the battery is cold it can cause issues like you discribed. Not a Ridgid guy so maybe others who are can chime in.
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Is the battery sitting loose on it? I had mine do that once and I think it was the battery was loose. If it does it a lot I use so Velcro and strap it on a little better.
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sounds like 2amp battery.
8" is pushing the limits of 700 inch pound drill with 4amp battery.
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Thanks for the fast responses guys. I am out on the lake with it now.
The drill is a 4ah and it is rated for 700lbs torque. Only two bars left on battery now but I will try some of the things you guys suggested.
I will add that once the drill cuts out a few seconds goes by before it will drill again and that time seems intermittent. Also there is a little slop in the ice master connection.
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maybe dull blades. try lifting the auger so it can't bite as much at a time. this will help.
the cut out is the protection circuit in the battery. it is getting too hot or overloaded and shuts down. if you have been using this with no problem and just starting to get this problem it must be dull blades.
mine has slop in the same adapter. that won't matter.
if it's a new setup, then the auger is too much for the drill. you'll want to look into the ice kicker 2 on ebay. and or get the head sharpened.
a 6" works perfectly with that drill.
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How much does that Nils 8" weigh? My total weight is 11.5-12 pounds counting the drill. I think when it happened to me I was drilling crooked. I can't walk a straight line and I can't drill straight either. I blame that on all tools are made for right handed people. I need a Level for mine.
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If it won't work again for a few seconds, it sounds like a battery issue, but as others have said it may not be enough for an aggressive 8" Are you pushing down when cutting? Try not pushing and let the auger do the work.
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If it won't work again for a few seconds, it sounds like a battery issue, but as others have said it may not be enough for an aggressive 8" Are you pushing down when cutting? Try not pushing and let the auger do the work.
I personally think it is one of these things.....700lbs should turn a nils....never had a problem with my Milwaukee 725lb turning it.
1.The battery and or drill could be cold causing the issue
2. The battery is getting low on power and doesn't have the surge of power when it gets cold to keep it going.....a bigger battery might help with that or a fully charged one.
3. The auger blade is getting dull causing the auger to need more power to turn it....a sharpend head or possibly the black slick cutting head would remedy the issue.
I'd first try a warm charged battery, then a sharp cutting head, then a black slick cutting head....then I'd get a bigger drill.
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maybe dull blades. try lifting the auger so it can't bite as much at a time. this will help.
the cut out is the protection circuit in the battery. it is getting too hot or overloaded and shuts down. if you have been using this with no problem and just starting to get this problem it must be dull blades.
mine has slop in the same adapter. that won't matter.
if it's a new setup, then the auger is too much for the drill. you'll want to look into the ice kicker 2 on ebay. and or get the head sharpened.
a 6" works perfectly with that drill.
I think it’s too much auger for the drill. I think the 8” was sharpened two or three years ago by frank. I have a 6” Nils at home that I will bring out next time. May look into a 7” mora as well.
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I think it’s too much auger for the drill. I think the 8” was sharpened two or three years ago by frank. I have a 6” Nils at home that I will bring out next time. May look into a 7” mora as well.
I'd just get a Milwaukee fuel with 1200in/lbs.....
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I am using that Nero Mini Hand auger made in Russia and a Ridgid Brushless Gen 5x. I measured the hole after drilling and it is called a 7" but measures 7 3/8".
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I personally think it is one of these things.....700lbs should turn a nils....never had a problem with my Milwaukee 725lb turning it.
1.The battery and or drill could be cold causing the issue
2. The battery is getting low on power and doesn't have the surge of power when it gets cold to keep it going.....a bigger battery might help with that or a fully charged one.
3. The auger blade is getting dull causing the auger to need more power to turn it....a sharpend head or possibly the black slick cutting head would remedy the issue.
I'd first try a warm charged battery, then a sharp cutting head, then a black slick cutting head....then I'd get a bigger drill.
When my Ion gets low on batteries, it stops spinning. After that, I have to wait a few seconds before it will turn on again.
On the other hand, sometimes ice build up will stop the auger and I don't ever recall having to wait to turn it back on.
From the looks of it, the nils heads are very aggressive. I have an 8" Strikemaster I use on my Ion and I have to almost pull up when drilling because the aggressive blade angles want to bite in so much.
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I've been using an Rigid with a 8" Strikemaster Lazer for 5 years now. never an issue.
Do not have it on hammer, and low speed. If this is a new one, you may have gotten a turd outta the box
Mine is NOT the compact version though
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if your drill has two speeds, make sure its on 1. There is too much load for speed 2.
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I've been using an Rigid with a 8" Strikemaster Lazer for 5 years now. never an issue.
Do not have it on hammer, and low speed. If this is a new one, you may have gotten a turd outta the box
Mine is NOT the compact version though
I've run a lazer 8in myself and they are way harder to turn on a drill then an 8in nils. So if yours can turn a lazer, an 8in nils should be a walk in the park.
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Sounds like a battery issue to me, just take it back..... you have a LSA which is the main reason most guys choose the rigid drill in the first place. The 1200 in/lb Milwaukee will easily do the job if you are interested in switching.
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i use a porter cable 20v BRUSHED drill for work and the 20v Brushless version for auger, when it is cold the battery needs to be kept warm or it will skip out exactly like its dead. decent weather there is no issue, and you can do normal drilling operations but when we demand this much torque the cold battery/drill can not give in the cold. keep them real warm and try that.
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I tried the cordless drill years ago with a 18v DeWalt and 7" Mora not perfect I know. Results were not great so i bought a tanaka gas drill have used it ever since lots of holes really light weight and compact works well for me.
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Thanks again everyone for the replies. This was my first outing with the combo and first time really using the drill at all besides a couple of screws at home. I bought the ridgid for the warranty so a Milwaukee fuel is out of the question. I am pretty open to the idea of ditching the Nils though. They are a great auger but i have the drill now so don’t need to worry about hand cranking holes anymore. I primarily use a 6” hole but today decided to take the 8” to see how the drill would do. Oops. The only time I need an 8 is laker fishing or maybe tipup fishing a derby.
I dont know if I should start a new thread or not but I would be interested to hear what kind of augers everyone is running with these 700lbs torque drills. Not sure if I should go 8” kdrill, 7” Nero, 7” mora, 7” lazer...
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My gen4 brushed Ridgid hamner runs a 6" Mora just fine...
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I run a 18v lithium ion ( not a brush less) Ridgid drill. I am using a 6" Lazer auger. I was having identical problem as you until I switched to the 4.0 ah battery ( which you have already done) my coworker has the same setup and I have drilled through 36" of ice with it no prob. Just make sure you do not push on it at all. He has tried a 8" auger Lazer and it struggles, does not use it on thick Ice. Another coworker just purchased a 7" Lazer ( if I remember correctly) and a Ridgid drill with the 4.0 ah battery on a clam plate. He cannot drill a hole without it cutting out. Not sure if any of this helps but you mentioned you were looking for different combos. By the way my 6" Lazer on my Ridgid probably drills faster than my 8" jiffy gas auger
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In the same boat brand new 8 inch Nils and a brand new Rigid 700 inch lb hammer drill . Kept battery 4 amp hour in pocket until use. Drilled 16 holes first 4 0r 5 were fine maybe more then it would stop for a couple sec and then go . Im thinking thermal overload protection ? I have a 5 amp hour will try that and see if it does it .The Nils is freakin awesome!
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I have a Clam Drill Plate with a 24V Kobalt Brushless Drill, 650 in/lbs I believe with 2 1.5 amp/hour and a 2 amp/hour battery....I am turning an 8 inch Mora just fine, actually pretty darn good! I do not think my 10" Jiffy will be seeing much use at all in the future...
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I bought the Russian Nero Mini and so far works great. Flies threw the ice with the greatest of ease. Oh wait I stole that.
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My Ridgid hammer runs my Mora 7 inch great!!
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I would consider a mora as I believe they have a less aggressive blade angle than curved blade augers.
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Rigid gen 5 here with 2 mah battery on a 6" lazer. First time out no issues on 5.25" of ice. Yesterday on 10" of ice drill kept cutting out.
My blades haven't been changed in awhile and I had to push down kinda hard which I think was killing it. Put new blades on and I'll try again later today.
If I still have problems I'm taking drill back and either getting that combo package with the impact and two 4 mah batteries, or perhaps a fuel.
Can anyone link me the Milwaukee drill? Does it come with batteries?
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I run a 18v lithium ion ( not a brush less) Ridgid drill. I am using a 6" Lazer auger. I was having identical problem as you until I switched to the 4.0 ah battery ( which you have already done) my coworker has the same setup and I have drilled through 36" of ice with it no prob. Just make sure you do not push on it at all. He has tried a 8" auger Lazer and it struggles, does not use it on thick Ice. Another coworker just purchased a 7" Lazer ( if I remember correctly) and a Ridgid drill with the 4.0 ah battery on a clam plate. He cannot drill a hole without it cutting out. Not sure if any of this helps but you mentioned you were looking for different combos. By the way my 6" Lazer on my Ridgid probably drills faster than my 8" jiffy gas auger
Are you using your 6" lazer on a clam plate? Wonder if these new clam plates could be the issue
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I think it’s too much auger for the drill. I think the 8” was sharpened two or three years ago by frank. I have a 6” Nils at home that I will bring out next time. May look into a 7” mora as well.
I have an older rigid hammer drill and using it on a 7" mora. no problems. Not as quick as using the 6" auger, but still cuts great. have not had it bog down in 0* temps
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I'm running a Gen 5X Ridgid hammer drill on a Clam plate to turn an 8in eskimo auger and haven't had any with it issues yet. In fact it blows right through the ice. One thing is to make sure you are running on the slower of the two speeds, more torque that way. Sounds like you may have a battery issue to me. I keep mine in a small soft sided lunch cooler with extra foam around them and a hand warmer when I'm on the ice to keep them warm. Plus they stay inside the house when I'm not fishing. Lithium batteries hate cold. If that doesn't help take it back and get a new one... that's why you have a lifetime warranty!
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I am running a ridgid gen5 brushless hammer drill with a 8" lazer and it cuts out all the time. Seems like it can't handle the 8" auger.
Reading all the replies it seems that I'll have to get the milwaukee fuel or downsize my auger to a 6" nils or something...
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I'm running a Gen 5X Ridgid hammer drill on a Clam plate to turn an 8in eskimo auger and haven't had any with it issues yet. In fact it blows right through the ice.
That's nothing more than a Mora bit with different paint right?
Mora bits are drill friendly...
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I have the Gen5 with 4ah batteries on a 6" Nils and it shreds through the ice, even with only 2 bars. I leave it outside on cold days and it still works flawlessly.
Like others have stated, wondering if the 8" is too much? I'd like to know because I wanted to buy an 8" Nils. I tried to cut with a 8" K drill, and the Ridged struggled.
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I have the Gen5 with 4ah batteries on a 6" Nils and it shreds through the ice, even with only 2 bars. I leave it outside on cold days and it still works flawlessly.
Like others have stated, wondering if the 8" is too much? I'd like to know because I wanted to buy an 8" Nils. I tried to cut with a 8" K drill, and the Ridged struggled.
Thanks for the info on the 8” kdrill struggling. Sounds like if we want reliable cut with an 8 mora might be the answer, which is fine becuaee they are cheap and cheaper to sharpen. There is a good tutorial on DIY mora blade sharpening in the ice auger section.
Moras pop up all the time on Craigslist it seems but there is not a single one near me right now. I think I have an old one in my parents garage that I might need to look into.
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Are you using your 6" lazer on a clam plate? Wonder if these new clam plates could be the issue
Yes new clam plate and 6" lazer. I'm wondering if it's perhaps the lazers.
So I put new blades on for today's outing and it was cutting 10" of ice like nothing. After a few hours it started acting up again. Battery was low so I put a fresh one in and still was cutting out.
My buddy has gen 4 with older clam plate with 4" lazer and his started cutting out as well. First time he's ever had the issue.
I'll test more tomorrow but I'm wondering if it's not ice build up on the auger that's causing it.
Rigid gen 4 on older clam plate with 4" lazer acting up
Rigid gen 5 on new clam plate with 6" lazer brand new blades acting up 2 days in a row after working fine for a few hours each time.
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Wish I had a 6" mora I could run to test it against the lazer. My drill is new. I'm not going to keep it if it doesn't drill. Thing work amazing for awhile then starts cutting out.
Do Milwaukees have cut off issues like this?
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I have the brushless and use the Nero Mini. Hole measures 7 3/8" when done. It cuts fine. I think it is a possibility 8" is too much or your batteries are low. Mine cut out once but I think I was drilling crooked. Still haven't bought a level for it but will.
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Wish I had a 6" mora I could run to test it against the lazer. My drill is new. I'm not going to keep it if it doesn't drill. Thing work amazing for awhile then starts cutting out.
Do Milwaukees have cut off issues like this?
All I can tell you is my experiance.....
I researched the heck outta these "drill" setups when they were 1st hitting the market. What I learned was that if you wanted to have a setup that would meet expectations a person needed to get the high quality high tourque brushless drill.
I purchased a clam plate and the go to Milwaukee brushless fuel drill with 725in/lbs. at the time. There was a huge debate at that time if a drill could even turn an 8in auger. So I started with a 6in lazer.....turned no problem.....then went to a 7in Eskimo flat blade......turned no problem.......then got the eBay kit and turned the 7in Eskimo flat blade into a 7in curved blade....turned it but could tell the drill was working......then jumped up to an 8in nils.....turned it easier then a 7in curved blade.
So I ran the Milwaukee fuel with the brushless 725in/lb on a clam plate and 8in nils for about 2 seasons. Then the Milwaukee fuel 1200in/lb came out and I got it to put on the clam plate. This thing doesn't even seemed to be bothered.....Guys on the website are even running a 10in nils with this drill and very happy.
I actually had kept my jiffy model 30 incase the drill setup didn't meet my expectations. I sold the Jiffy this year, and my drill setup does it all.
The only time I had my drill setup give me a little issue was when the setup rode in the back of my truck box for 9hrs to upper red in temps of -30. I pulled it from the box and went to drill and it was really sluggish. Once it got drilling and warmed up it drill fine.
I get people are trying to figure out a cheaper system for these drill setups, but the Milwaukee is pretty proven and does what people want it to. Will there be failures like any setup gas/propane/electric yeah...
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That's nothing more than a Mora bit with different paint right?
Mora bits are drill friendly...
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The Eskimo augers are a replica of the strikemasters......jus t painted red with China blades. Straight blade Eskimo is the mora and the curved blade (silver tip) is the lazer. They will even take strikemaster blades.
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would like to contribute , but the Nils auger that I order back in November is still backordered.!
I bought the Gen 5 combo packet from HD, came with 4 - 4 amp batteries, figure that and the LTW made it worth risk.
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I am having the exact same problem. Bought a Rigid with 650 in. lbs. tourque to go with a 6" Nero. Runs for a couple seconds then quits. Tested in garage with no load and same results. Batteries fully charged tested both and 1 doesn't work at all. Going to return it and exchange. Does anybody know if HD will do an exchange or will I have to go through all the BS of a warranty return? Purchased the drill in December.
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Home depot will do the return within the 90 days. I just returned my ridgid drill last night because I was having so many issues with it struggling with the 8" lazer auger.
For me it was spending $100 to upgrade to the fuel drill or spending $150 downsizing my auger to the nils 6" and keeping the ridgid risking more issues with it struggling...so I went and returned my ridgid and will get the fuel because I like the 8" more than the 6" hole.
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Did you get the warranty LSA online? Or have you registered it yet?
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Home depot will do the return within the 90 days. I just returned my ridgid drill last night because I was having so many issues with it struggling with the 8" lazer auger.
For me it was spending $100 to upgrade to the fuel drill or spending $150 downsizing my auger to the nils 6" and keeping the ridgid risking more issues with it struggling...so I went and returned my ridgid and will get the fuel because I like the 8" more than the 6" hole.
Sounds like a long way around not trying a $20 Mora off Craig's list... Lol
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The Eskimo augers are a replica of the strikemasters......jus t painted red with China blades. Straight blade Eskimo is the mora and the curved blade (silver tip) is the lazer. They will even take strikemaster blades.
Thanks for the clarification...
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Sounds like a long way around not trying a $20 Mora off Craig's list... Lol
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yea, I really just want the milwaukee anyways...have a lot of other things I want to use the hammer drill and impact for too.
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I did register and have the LSA. Thing is I don't want a Rigid anymore. Doubt they are built to hold up to ice drilling. I'll either go with a Bosch or Milwaukee. I'll take it back to HD and see what they will do for me. Hopefully they will let me exchange.
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Maybe I'm just lucky but I have had zero issues with my gen 4 rigid (with brushes) mounted to a clam plate with a 6" lazer. I have drilled hundreds of holes through ice up to 30", never do anything special to keep my batteries warm. Its not as cold here as some shanty people, but certainly warmer than Pennsylvania. The lazer is aggressive, I definitely support the recommendations to go with an 8" mora or eskimo instead. The drill has also seen heavy use off the ice. I broke the impact driver trying to install TimberLOK screws in green wood and just switched over to the drill, it survived at least a mile of TimberLOKs.
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they will return any tool they sold for up to 90 days even if you registered them. no problem with that. they do drill ice very well, if you use the right bit for the job and tool. just like any other drilling task you may have.
Home depot will do the return within the 90 days. I just returned my ridgid drill last night because I was having so many issues with it struggling with the 8" lazer auger.
For me it was spending $100 to upgrade to the fuel drill or spending $150 downsizing my auger to the nils 6" and keeping the ridgid risking more issues with it struggling...so I went and returned my ridgid and will get the fuel because I like the 8" more than the 6" hole.
and then there is this.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=351027.0
also folks getting snubbed by milwaukee for repairs under warranty.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=353216.0
best of luck.
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I am having the exact same problem. Bought a Rigid with 650 in. lbs. tourque to go with a 6" Nero. Runs for a couple seconds then quits. Tested in garage with no load and same results. Batteries fully charged tested both and 1 doesn't work at all. Going to return it and exchange. Does anybody know if HD will do an exchange or will I have to go through all the BS of a warranty return? Purchased the drill in December.
if it can't spin freely, then it is defective. so with no bit on it at all it won't spin.
make sure to use 4 amp battery or larger.
that 650 is their old model gen 4. probably super cheap especially if it only has 2 amp battery.
you can exchange it, but it's a little bit old when you bought it. or you can get your money back and start over.
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I did register and have the LSA. Thing is I don't want a Rigid anymore. Doubt they are built to hold up to ice drilling. I'll either go with a Bosch or Milwaukee. I'll take it back to HD and see what they will do for me. Hopefully they will let me exchange.
within 90 day store warranty - you can exchange it. I am using the rigid hammer drill for past 3 years and have had no problems. Using with 6" and 7" augers. 4AH battery. have yet to need to pull out the spare battery. used in minus temps flawlessly.
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if it can't spin freely, then it is defective. so with no bit on it at all it won't spin.
make sure to use 4 amp battery or larger.
that 650 is their old model gen 4. probably super cheap especially if it only has 2 amp battery.
you can exchange it, but it's a little bit old when you bought it. or you can get your money back and start over.
I think defective since it only works intermittently with one battery and not at all with the other with nothing attached.
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within 90 day store warranty - you can exchange it. I am using the rigid hammer drill for past 3 years and have had no problems. Using with 6" and 7" augers. 4AH battery. have yet to need to pull out the spare battery. used in minus temps flawlessly.
Just curious,is yours the Brushless drill? I see a lot of people saying they have a problem and some are using the Brushed and some brushless. I am pretty sure it isn't the batteries. It very well could be the auger they are using. Perhaps 8" isn't good on them but I haven't figured out if that is the case. I am using the 7" Nero Mini and did have it cut out once but I think I was going at an angle into the ice. Of course that isn't a good idea. My wife is on vacation next week and I will have a lot more outings with it then. I will test the angle theory on it. I have gone threw 12" many times with out a problem. Last 2 times out I only had 6" to go through. Just trying to figure out what is common on the problem drills/augers.
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I think defective since it only works intermittently with one battery and not at all with the other with nothing attached.
Are you saying it cuts out only with one of the batteries?
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Are you saying it cuts out only with one of the batteries?
yes and drill doesn't work at all with other baterry
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I know cars/Trucks and just about anything else electrical out there have some lemons. Sounds like a defective drill for sure. I have tried all 3 of my batteries and they all seem to work the same. Is there any slop with the battery attached?
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The guy above has defective drill or battery.
The rest of us are just getting this cutting out thing on all kinds of different sized auger and fresh batteries in the 2-4 range. Spins fine out of the ice. In the ice it cuts out
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Drilled 32 holes tonight with no issues. Even tried to sit a battery in the cold for awhile before I went. Both warm and cold batteries work. 15 on one, 17 on the other.
My rigid shut off issue is either coming from batteries getting cold on the ice or buildup on auger. Never starts acting up until at least 2 hrs on ice
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It very well could be ice build up or as I think my one time by cutting at an angle. I bought a level to put on the end of my drill today and used velcro to attach it. I will try using the level this week soon and I will also try cutting at an angle and see what happens. I always spin the drill after drilling to minimize ice build up and never set it in the snow.
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they will return any tool they sold for up to 90 days even if you registered them. no problem with that. they do drill ice very well, if you use the right bit for the job and tool. just like any other drilling task you may have.
and then there is this.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=351027.0
also folks getting snubbed by milwaukee for repairs under warranty.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=353216.0
best of luck.
I wouldnt call it getting snubbed when you aren’t the original owner of an Item.
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I wouldnt call it getting snubbed when you aren’t the original owner of an Item.
stripernut's son is the original owner. and was snubbed big time by the manufacturer.
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=353216.msg3770016#msg3770016
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=353216.msg3770456#msg3770456
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I must be one of the lucky ones also. I run a gen5 brushless on a clam plate with an 8” nills. Thickest ice we have seen so far with it was only 11” but it goes through it like a hot knife in butter. If you have your settings correct then You have a defect for sure in your set up. I would guess the drill is bad. Wish there was a way to test them.
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I must be one of the lucky ones also. I run a gen5 brushless on a clam plate with an 8” nills. Thickest ice we have seen so far with it was only 11” but it goes through it like a hot knife in butter. If you have your settings correct then You have a defect for sure in your set up. I would guess the drill is bad. Wish there was a way to test them.
Has your drill ever cut out for a few seconds when drilling? What batteries?
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I'm running a new Rigid GenX 5 brushless with 4Ahr batteries and a new 6" kdrill and had the combo out last night for the first time and had the same problem. Only on a handful of holes though, and drilled around 50 through 10-12" of Ice. Thought it was weird it only did it in some of the holes but when it cut out it would cut out twice per hole.
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I'm running a new Rigid GenX 5 brushless with 4Ahr batteries and a new 6" kdrill and had the combo out last night for the first time and had the same problem. Only on a handful of holes though, and drilled around 50 through 10-12" of Ice. Thought it was weird it only did it in some of the holes but when it cut out it would cut out twice per hole.
Is there a chance you were drilling a little crooked in those holes? Just trying to narrow down this problem.
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It is possible, if so it wasn't very noticeable, and I kinda thought about that after the fact. I am gonna give it another go this weekend and try to ensure I'm as straight as possible to see if that changes anything. After all its a 90 day return policy and if it does it any more I'll switch to the fuel.
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I am going out either tomorrow or Friday and test mine on an angle. I bought a bubble level to put on it so I know if it is straight or not.
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Level is a good idea! Let me know how it does at an angle since you'll be out before me if you would? I'll be in the blind Thursday thru Saturday then back on the ice.
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Only time mine cut out was my fault. Battery came loose. Just checked. I’m using the 5amp battery.
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If you are already in low speed high torque mode, then it is a load issue. Too much load and the drill's safety will stop it from working rather than harm the drill. You do know that 8 inches is a lot of load. 16/9 more than a 6 inch hole.
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If you are already in low speed high torque mode, then it is a load issue. Too much load and the drill's safety will stop it from working rather than harm the drill. You do know that 8 inches is a lot of load. 16/9 more than a 6 inch hole.
I have been running mine at 60 out of 100 on the torque selection. I may change that now that I am using the drills handle. I will test mine out pretty good in the next day or so.
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I’ll test mine out tonight with the 4amp just to see if there is a difference. Also note the drill and batteries only get used for ice fishing. They are on their 2nd season. All in all I’d say still new.
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I’ll test mine out tonight with the 4amp just to see if there is a difference. Also note the drill and batteries only get used for ice fishing. They are on their 2nd season. All in all I’d say still new.
OH, I thought you just bought the setup this year. Glad to hear you are on your 2nd year with it. SO for the most part it has been doing the job for you huh?
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Everything I had hoped for and more. Just waiting for a good old fashion winter to put it to the test. (24” of ice or better). Been drilling through 11” currently.
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I will continue testing my drill as well. Buddy had no issues today on his outing. At the end of the previous outing it acted up. It's gotta be the frozen ice on the auger or batteries getting too cold.
The issue never arises until later on in the day, even with a fresh battery out on
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Everything I had hoped for and more. Just waiting for a good old fashion winter to put it to the test. (24” of ice or better). Been drilling through 11” currently.
I usually don't read instructions or anything else when I buy something. I just know when it works it works and if not I get upset. SO reading the Manual on this drill it say's "Overload Protection."
When the tool is forced or overloaded,the Li-ion battery pack will automatically shut off the tool. To reset the tool ,release the trigger and resume operation. Do not force the tool.
And It also says this same thing under a supplement paper that reads "Battery Protection Features."
Did you by chance try to drill a crooked hole to see what would happen?
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Lol I always end up with a crooked hole. That’s why no fish want to come out. My story and I’m sticking to it. Another thing. I have the 8” trecker model of nills. I am currently using the 28” section.
Gen5 rigid brushless with 5amp battery
Clam plate
28” section of blue nills
Red cutting head
Heading out now will do a few tests and get back to ya after dark.
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Just out of curiosity what model number is everyone using. Mine is R86116
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Just out of curiosity what model number is everyone using. Mine is R86116
Same thing here. I really think yours is defective.
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Rigid Brushless 700 in. lb. torque
Rigid Brush motor 780 in. lb. torque
Wonder if that 80lbs makes a difference?
I am chomping at the bit waiting for my 8" nills for my new brushed motor Rigid, to arrive that is backordered to add more to the discussion.
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Mine cuts out if it's on high speed. On low it cuts great :)
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Went out yesterday with the 5amp hour still cutting out ! I have about 30 holes on it ,possible the Nils head is the problem? I have a new spare head i will try that and see what happens. I have model 86116 also
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Went out yesterday with the 5amp hour still cutting out ! I have about 30 holes on it ,possible the Nils head is the problem? I have a new spare head i will try that and see what happens. I have model 86116 also
Watch this video really close...( your answer is within )
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Although it does look like the Ridgid is cutting out irrelevant to the battery being loose.. But it looks like he is in high speed gear setting...
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Vinny boborino got his speeds mixed up with the rigid!
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Just out of curiosity what model number is everyone using. Mine is R86116
That's the one I am running as well with no issues.
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Did some testing last night. 4amp battery 10”of ice. Drilled a dozen holes. Some even at crazy angels and not one hiccup. Not sure what else I can try until we get thicker ice. Thinking your drill is bad.
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Although it does look like the Ridgid is cutting out irrelevant to the battery being loose.. But it looks like he is in high speed gear setting...
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I also think he may have a drill with a battery connection problem. That can make it cut out also.
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Running the R86116.
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Wrong speed for sure. Also the Ridgid has a Torque Setting from 0-100. Looks like it is on 70-75. Oh and he is in screw mode. I guess he does put it in drill mode later. But this guy really needs more sleep, he is totally half asleep.
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I also think he may have a drill with a battery connection problem. That can make it cut out also.
My first time out with my refurbished DeWalt 995 ...Clam Plate...8in Kdrill ..my drill shut down after 3 holes(7" ice)
...I then noticed the Ubolt knob fasteners were had become loose ..tighten back up ...worked fine ..yesterday ...little thicker ice(10" ice)...had similar issues ..tightened Ubolt again..not as loose as first time ..was good for a hole or two ...then I notice that the battery had some play..after removing the battery and reinstalling it with some more force it was fine ...kicked across this video looking for a remedy.
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Took out the Drill and fished today. Drilled perfect even opening an old hole although it hung up a little. It never Shut off. I am running it on 60 for torque and #1 setting. 2" a second easily. Oh I caught 17 Crappie, 1 Trout,1 Perch and 1 Pike. 23.5" Pike. A lot of 9.5- 9.75" Crappie.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/yi3sxb9kz/IMG_1958.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yi3sxb9kz/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/oxk6ap7gz/Pike.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oxk6ap7gz/)
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Took out the Drill and fished today. Drilled perfect even opening an old hole although it hung up a little. It never Shut off. I am running it on 60 for torque and #1 setting. 2" a second easily. Oh I caught 17 Crappie, 1 Trout,1 Perch and 1 Pike. 23.5" Pike. A lot of 9.5- 9.75" Crappie.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/yi3sxb9kz/IMG_1958.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yi3sxb9kz/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/oxk6ap7gz/Pike.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oxk6ap7gz/)
Nice work!
In drill mode, the torque setting makes no difference..
Are you running your set up in drive mode, or drill mode?
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There are 3 settings. Hammer, Drive and Drill. Drill mode is what I use. And you are correct the torque adjustment doesn't work except in Drive mode. So I guess I adjusted it for no apparent reason. I am pretty new to this but I am trying to read the instructions.
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No problems today with Nils 8” through 5” of ice. Ran both batteries and left one sit out in the cold for an hour before drilling with it and it still preformed great.
More testing will have to be done but wife and kids make it difficult.
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My rigid has been running fine lately. Only had problems on those really cold days with the ice freezing on the auger and perhaps battery getting cold
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I bought my Gen 5 drill Jan 5th. The owners manual states the batteries can operate in temps to -4f.
The formula for any brand of drill = high speed/low torque.
The ring around the chuck sets the speed. Mine is on 60. 70-80 is better than 20-30.
Torque switch on top of drill, needs to be on 1.
Hope this helps.
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Mine ran great again today.
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I have a gen5 brushless with a 2amp battery and run a 6inch nils.
This has happened to me with cold batteries. Like -8 cold.
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I bought my Gen 5 drill Jan 5th. The owners manual states the batteries can operate in temps to -4f.
The formula for any brand of drill = high speed/low torque.
The ring around the chuck sets the speed. Mine is on 60. 70-80 is better than 20-30.
Torque switch on top of drill, needs to be on 1.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
Had not heard that about the torque ring before. Mine was set at 80 today because that’s what I used to drive some screws the night before. Last time I had problems the torque ring was set on 100 and 0.
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Btw, I'm running a 6" Nils on a clam plate.
4 amp hr battery.
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So it's been awhile, how has everyone's rigids been running
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I have over 350 holes drilled and have no complaints other that the one day I had heavy snow about a foot on top the ice. It shut off a few times but once I figured out to shovel the snow off first it did great. SO yea heavy wet snow will bog it down. Just bring your shovel.
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I need some help with my brand new drill setup.
I am running a brand new ridgid gen5 brushless compact hammer drill with an 8” Nils attached with kovac ice master. The problem I am having is that the drill keeps cutting out on me when I am drilling. It will drill for a second or two then stop. Wait a little bit press trigger again then drill again only to stop seconds later. When the drill spins it cuts great.
I started out with new battery that I kept in my coat pocket till I got to my spot. The drill was on the auger not protected from the elements. It is 25*f right now. Drill set up was on drill and 1 as thst got me the best preformace.
Anybody ever have any issues like this before? Advice? Thanks.
I had the same problem and found out that I had the settings wrong. Put the switch on #1 and drill mode selected ,crank the torque to its max (past 100 ). Make sure to clear the hole of snow while drilling . This worked for me. If it is set to #2 there are safety features that will stop the drill and then you have to remove and reinstall the battery . The 2AH batteries are fine for 6" of ice or even more , just don't put a lot of down force on it . A 4AH battery allows you to drill more holes it really doesn't make the drill more powerful .All this is info I got from my regional Rigid service dealer.I am using a 6" auger ,I am sure the 8" puts a bigger strain on the drill.
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My Ridgid just started doing the same as the first poster. Batteries are charged and warm, I think the battery is loose were it slides in. Jiggle the battery or take it back out and it drills again. I haven't had time to try a strap or cord. I hope I can manage this!!
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You don't have to remove the battery just let up on the trigger and then go again. It is in the manual that if the battery gets hot it shuts down and releasing the trigger resets it. I don't mean let up on it I mean release it completely.
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My Ridgid just started doing the same as the first poster. Batteries are charged and warm, I think the battery is loose were it slides in. Jiggle the battery or take it back out and it drills again. I haven't had time to try a strap or cord. I hope I can manage this!!
so it had been working fine and now it is not?
if so it is under warranty for three years and lifetime if you filled out the lsa.
right now there is a lot of water on lakes and that puts a bigger load on augers. try lifting so it isn't biting as much wet ice and see how it does. if it still is acting up, then i would take it to an authorized small service center.
dull blades make it worse.
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I ended up returning my rigid last week thanks to the Home Depot 90 day return policy. A few buddies of mine all have the fuel and seem to out drill me. You can definitely tell the difference in power. The batteries for the Milwaukee are lasting a lot longer too, granted the Milwaukee came with 2 5amp ones instead of 4 amp, and it ended up being cheaper since it was on sale for $250 just no free tool. Worth the return in my book.
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Two decent seasons now of fishing/drilling twice a day still going strong. Nils blade could use a touch up but that can wait until ice out.
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Solution...Ridgid Octane Brushless with 9amphr
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Thanks for the fast responses guys. I am out on the lake with it now.
The drill is a 4ah and it is rated for 700lbs torque. Only two bars left on battery now but I will try some of the things you guys suggested.
I will add that once the drill cuts out a few seconds goes by before it will drill again and that time seems intermittent. Also there is a little slop in the ice master connection.
700 in/lb is not enough to turn an 8".
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I have a 2604 Milwaukee ( 750 in lbs) i run a 8" kdrill and haven't had a problem in 3 years with 4ah batteries but this year i got 12ah woo hoo
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700 in/lb is not enough to turn an 8".
This is not true. I have been running the gen x5 with an 8" Mora for 3 years with no problems at all. Before that, I used a ridgid 556(?) in/lbs with the same auger for 5 years with no problem. All of these drills have plenty of torque.
Sharp blades and large batteries are what matters. I just picked up 2 9ah batteries for my gen x5 and it works awesome! I will be buying the 1300 octane next year for my 10" shaver and have no doubt that the drill will turn it just fine. I already use the 556 for my 6" mora and the gen x5 for my 8". Next year I will have all 3 sizes with their own drills.
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So one thing I'm curious as to why we don't use an impact driver? It's seems that they have like 2,000 inches/lb of torque. Are they too slow?
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Seriously look at the new ridged octane...1300lbs and one heck of a deal if you buy it from HD online...basically get the drill for free if you buy a charger and a new 9 amphr battery= no brainer!
I have heard that the impact driver would not allow the blades to cut well and would destroy a clam plate...this is not my opinion or experience, just from what I have heard
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Seriously look at the new ridged octane...1300lbs and one heck of a deal if you buy it from HD online...basically get the drill for free if you buy a charger and a new 9 amphr battery= no brainer!
I have heard that the impact driver would not allow the blades to cut well and would destroy a clam plate...this is not my opinion or experience, just from what I have heard
Just ordered "free drill" with purchase of 9amphr battery and charger... great deal
Thanks smitty :tipup:
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So one thing I'm curious as to why we don't use an impact driver? It's seems that they have like 2,000 inches/lb of torque. Are they too slow?
Having ice auger blades you need a nice steady drilling for the blades to cut. If you started having the "impact" mode occuring with the blades smashing against the ice to cut it would damage the edge pretty quick. Which would dull them and cause them not to cut. You'd also risk possible damage to the blade mounts/cutting head getting bent or out of wack due to the impacting. Same reason nobody runs the drill in hammer mode.