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Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Ice Fishing Transportation => Topic started by: Rex in OTZ on Feb 16, 2018, 12:13 PM
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2002 Polaris widetrack transmission/chaincase, things were going smoothly right up till I went to put the drain plug back in, it wont stop spinning and I was using a 1/4" dr rachet and a small hex driver bit.
Im thinking of J-B welding the drain plug back into the case, right after I drill and tap a new drain hole in the drain plug.
Possibly a #10×24 and use a cap screw head with a thick rubber washer as my new drain plug.
Itd sure beat removing the transmission from the frame, im thinking of tipping the snowmobile on its side and get a good wash using some spray cleaner followed up with some acetone solvent then epoxy the old plug in and let it set for about 4-5 days to cure.
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I had a car that I stripped the oil drain plug and was able to get one the next size up that was self tapping. Might want to take it to an auto parts store to see if you can get a slightly larger size bolt.
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Very often, fingers just won't fit anywhere near the drain hole and a tool extension is needed.
That is when caution is required. Make contact, rotate the plug slowly, counterclockwise, until it seats with a noticeable "clunk", then carefully rotate to engage.
What really helps is using a product that prevents wear and negates changing for years. One such is an Amsoil lubricant.
Your solution to the current problem is good thinking, J-B Weld is magic.
Good luck. ;)2
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Well after stdying it, I dont think going larger is going to help, its a contured snowmobile chaincase.
In the case of rhe polaris widetrack it has low/reverse/neutral/high ranges, not alllot of room on the bottom the gear oil sump for much to stick through as a drain plug.
I have time so am in no hurry.
As my name states Im in OTZ.
Which is really limited on these auto parts mentioned. (Already checked) the smallest drain plug they stock is 3 times larger than the plug Im working with.
It looks mike a major undertaking to pull the transmission, its held on by 3 carrage bolts, one nut behind the brake disc, the short fwd bolt is the only easy one, the bottom bolt right next to the radiator hoses wont back out because the jackshaft sprocket it in the way, and all three are shimmed into alignment.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/umrx2ifr7/20180216_120743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/umrx2ifr7/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/9d4aroew3/20180216_120717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9d4aroew3/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/ggc67i2dv/20180216_121305.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ggc67i2dv/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/fs3bo10xv/20180216_121323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fs3bo10xv/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/n4dd7uyf7/20180216_134220.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/n4dd7uyf7/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/wowzuqvgz/20180216_135352.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wowzuqvgz/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/8xxmcnapf/20180216_135427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8xxmcnapf/)
Considering this machine is as old as most highschool sophmore's its not surprising a 15 yro sno-go would have a issue.
Since I have it in the shop Im changing the carb mount boots and water-pump drive belt, as well as siphon out all the gas in the tank and service w new.
Drain the carbs, I have a new suction pump to draw out fluids and may be handy cleaning out the mix-oil resivour.
Today am replacing the 15yro jack and cross-over shaft bearings.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/cvkw1r003/20180216_140355.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cvkw1r003/)
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I cross threaded a spark plug in the head of motorcycle. I repaired it with a helicoil kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK
Good luck.
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Very often, fingers just won't fit anywhere near the drain hole and a tool extension is needed.
That is when caution is required. Make contact, rotate the plug slowly, counterclockwise, until it seats with a noticeable "clunk", then carefully rotate to engage.
Good luck. ;)2
x2 big time! You can still use your fingers with a tool extension. When you "counter-rotate" it may only be a noticeable "bump" as opposed to a "clunk" but that's the idea. Unfortunately, it's too late for that.
Aluminum is not very forgiving and prone to accept mistakes with less protest than steel. JB Weld IS awesome but heli-coils are awesome too. In a pinch a thick wrap of silicone tape can get you home but is not a durable fix.
Good luck with your repair!
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x2 big time! You can still use your fingers with a tool extension. When you "counter-rotate" it may only be a noticeable "bump" as opposed to a "clunk" but that's the idea. Unfortunately, it's too late for that.
Aluminum is not very forgiving and prone to accept mistakes with less protest than steel. JB Weld IS awesome but heli-coils are awesome too. In a pinch a thick wrap of silicone tape can get you home but is not a durable fix.
Good luck with your repair!
I see you've starred in that movie, too. ;)2
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A work Ford f-150 had one of those oversize self tapping oil-plugs that always left a puddle under the truck.
Imagine that, it was stripped by the time Id gotten to it.
My fix involved pulling the oil pan and taking down to the local shop and had them braze a 5/8" nut on the pan boss.
Then I used a regular bolt with a napa plastic washer to seal it.
On aircraft we used quick drains.
On equipment like the Bobcat 753 skid loader its a hose with a pipe plug for a stopper.
I have some alumi-Pro solder but didnt want to pull the transmission to tear it appart to solder that boss and try to fi d a tap to make the threads for this particular plug.
So for this particular instance, im turning the machine on its side and prop it from rolling on over.
A cordless drill with a small porting grind stone to rough up the area Im epoxying.
Clean he area with starter fluid to flush the target area inside and out then for a final clean a acid brush with acetone to degrease it.
Then mix some J-B weld and wet the surface of both the plug and the case.
Watch it till it starts to tack up, then assemble the wetted parts and leave it be till its hard.
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If your intention is to create JB Weld threads that'll work. If you want to have a removable plug make sure you use some sort of "mold release" on it or it'll be JB Welded in for (almost) ever. Good ol' paste wax works great, a shot of silicone is OK too. Don't leave a lot on, you only need enough to allow to plug to be removed and still make perfect threads.
I might even just JB Weld on a correct nut and go that route. More durable threads and no risk of gluing the plug in "permanently".
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No my intention is to epoxy the original plug into the chaincase, so the issue of epoxy threads holding a removable plug is not an issue.
In the photo's above Id drilled the drain plug and tapped it for a 1/4"x20 cap screw (the new drain plug) for a steel on steel sealing.
Add a AN flat washer and a good gasket
I figure its just a short step from epoxing it in place after degreasing the contact area.
And possibly roughing the area with a abrasive stone to give better contact area for the epoxy.
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Well things are dry in the chaincase area a week after adding a new dose of gear lube.
I replaced the crossover shaft bearing, which was a press fit, I was able to set it on the bench vise and use the shot filled mallet to drive shaft out.
The jack shaft was a different story.
I used a bearing puller to get it off, it fought it all the way off!
Installing a press fit bearing on the jack shaft was going to be a royal booger.
The 2002 Widetrack has a tub and sides to work limit work, I thought Itd be a cinch to just pull the transission bolts to have room to pull the jack shaft to replace the bearing, that requires messing with those shims hidden behind the chaincase so I was not really ready to be essing with chaincase alignment with all the coolant hoses, battery box and other fun stuff just to deplace a single bearing?
Being lazy I chose to use cold and heat.
I placed te new bearing on top the boiler and let it get warm (not hot).
As for what little jack shaft was sticking out the side of the tunnel.
I degreased it and gave it some green scotch-brite treatment, and to shrink it I picked up a areosol can of computer keyboard duster and inverted the can and went to town on that shaft, I placed the warm bearing on that cold shaft and rabbit bumped it on using a deep socket and brass hammer till it seated against tbe shaft shoulder.
It went better than I thought.
Sure beat pulling loose a Ton ah stuff to get that bearing changed. :D
I dont mind hard work, But Id rather work smart.
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Thermolytic technology is magic. (please forgive the nasty words). ;)2 :roflmao: :clap:
Rosebuds are handy, too. ;)2
Congrats on that success! :clap: :bow:
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Having this same issue happen to me a few times. The best way to fix it is with a Heli-Coil. It sure is not difficult.
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whittle down a carrot and shove it in there call it a day.