Author Topic: Shack for non-fishing purpose (Read 16102 times)

mh · « **on:** Dec 21, 2011, 06:31 AM »

Pictures from a shanty friend in Sweden. This is first my attempt to build a shack for outdoor activity in bad weather. To start with, i have a atv trailer with flatbedd size 2½' x 4½'. This trailer is normally pulled by my atv, but can also be hangd onto car, and in this winter to my sled aswell (with ski kit added). The shack will be used for base camp when hiking, skiing and exploring nature with my kids. It will also be possible to sleep in for an adult and a kid. The shack will be lifted (in some way, currently weight=200kgs) onto the trailer.
Some Sketchup models:
Winter

Summer

Bottom

Rear

Building started:
Rear

Stove corner

Old caravan windows (insulated)

Wood stove building from 5litres jerrycan:
Testing

Pipe welded

Wood entrance

Test burn

more to come.....

jiml · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 09:00 AM »

Have to say that the jerry can wood stove is the coolest thing I have ever seen!!!!!

mh · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 11:14 AM »

Do I even have to say that while cutting and welding, the jerrycan was filled with water for safety....

Hinges for stove hatch will be added, please come back later.

mh · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 21, 2011, 03:28 PM »

More pictures showing my windows. I hope they will allow a good view of nature.

mh · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 22, 2011, 03:49 PM »

I'm back with some new pictures on the stove in progress.
Tonight hinges and baseplates for stove fastening were welded. Next step on stove will be door knob, and next step on the shack will be stove fastening, followed by pipeing and roofing.

Any ideas about sealing between exhaust pipe and a flat tin roof?

BS-BARN · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 23, 2011, 11:44 PM »

I just cut out about a 12"x12" square hole in the roof and put in a slightly larger square pics of in with a hole for the exact diameter of the stack to go out of. I put one on top of the roof and on the underside to sandwich them together. It isn't all the pretty and no it's obviously not 100% water tight but it works for me. Even when it is raining out I only get a slight amount of drippage inside and it quickly burns off once it hits the stove. Is it perfect? No. Does it look great? No. Does it work well enough for me? Most deffinatley.

mh · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 12:32 PM »

Hello again!
Today pipe and pipe holders were fixed. Fire protection boards in the corner for safety. Pipe is a 2½" spare car exhaust pipe.
Merry Christmas!

Some pictures:
(Panorama camera function makes the "bending" of the pipe)

Pipe height simulated:

chfishon · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 24, 2011, 07:17 PM »

Nice!!

mh · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 25, 2011, 04:15 PM »

Is there a better way to spend Christmas? Shack building with kids....
Anyway-
Sheet steel mounted on front wall/roof (SSAB Prelaq, painted galvanized sheets)

Roof bottom layer added. Pipe corner

Hole from above

Waiting for good idea for the hole in the tin roof...

rwfishon · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 05:21 AM »

Hi, Hate to back you up on progress, but you should have a damper [butterfly] type valve inside the pipe to regulate heat and make wood last. Just like a normal wood stove. Also, pipe should always be lapped so creasote runs back into stove and won't go all over. Just a couple ideas while you are in the building stage. You may be able to seal joint with good sealer from auto store, they have super high temp. compound.

Good Luck, Ron
P.S. Looks Great

blufloyd · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 06:39 AM »

Yep I was wondering why the junk burner if using good venting? Pips definitely need reversing. Plenty ready made thru roof flashing doo dads available.

In interests of full disclosure I hate wood fires. Neighbor heats with wood so my house stinks like trash burning all winter heat season....

mh · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 26, 2011, 03:55 PM »

Quote from: rwfishon on Dec 26, 2011, 05:21 AM

Hi, Hate to back you up on progress, but you should have a damper [butterfly] type valve inside the pipe to regulate heat and make wood last. Just like a normal wood stove. Also, pipe should always be lapped so creasote runs back into stove and won't go all over. Just a couple ideas while you are in the building stage. You may be able to seal joint with good sealer from auto store, they have super high temp. compound.

Good Luck, Ron
P.S. Looks Great

Hi. Thanks for comments! The stove will be damped on air inlet, to prevent smoke in the shack. There is a hole in the bottom of the stove, that will be connected to the outside by a vertical shaft/pipe. The air flow will be adjusted by a plate in the bottom of the stove. When fully opened the live coal/ashes will fall down on the ground outside and clear out the stove before traveling again. You can actually see the hole on this (old) picture:

mh · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 02:23 PM »

The big day! Getting the junk pile out of the garage was the easiest part. Getting it on the trailer was a bit harder....
Finally, since the ATV is behind the sled in the garage, and we don't have any snow, the mower had to do the test run

Tin roof on top and front. Sides to be paintet later.

Notice that pipe through tin will be sealed with stove cement and hose clamps. An extra 2' pipe is mounted when fireing the stove.

things to do next:
- paint
- fixing rear trailer hatch in upper position
- ash shaft (see earlier post)
- fixing the shack on the trailer (I didn't see that one coming....)

mh · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 01, 2012, 01:13 PM »

Today ash/air shaft was finished. An old 3" down pipe fitted perfectly.
Hole under shack (behind/after trailer)

Pipe inside floor.

Pipe attached to stove bottom.

surflizard · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 01, 2012, 01:23 PM »

Welcome to the site mh, Glad to have you aboard, its good to see another Nordic country represented here on the shanty ! Clever design easy to manuver and still fairly light weight. The jerry can wood stove is an interesting concept, never seen that before, looks like it will work well. Good luck and let us know how she works on the ice for you !!

Surf

Lunch_Box · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 01, 2012, 07:48 PM »

That's pretty cool

mh · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 02, 2012, 07:19 AM »

Owing to certain circumstances

, I need support legs at the back of the shack. If entering the shack when not hitched, there will be problems...

I like this simple idea with strap for tightening:

mh · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 03, 2012, 03:46 PM »

The snow is near so the skis will be needed. A pair of old downhill skis ($5) might do the job?

cnylocalice · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 03, 2012, 04:13 PM »

Pretty cool I wish I had time for that between work and the kids. good job man.

hillbill · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 04, 2012, 08:34 PM »

nice trailer

Wizzofd69 · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 04, 2012, 11:06 PM »

Very creative thats pretty cool

mh · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 05, 2012, 08:53 AM »

First forest test, still with "wrong" vehicle pulling . Just above freezing point and rain - best test weather ever!

Stove just after fireing up.

Kids eating.

Stove getting warm. To all who was worried about if it gives enough heat: Don't worry!

To prevent tipping over when not hitched we needed a support stand.

Preparing for snow, a hitch ball was mounted on the sled. Skis on trailer will come...

Sealing of pipe outside roof with hose clamp and stove cement.

laclabiche walleye hunter · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 09, 2012, 10:25 PM »

Nice build looks like it should do the trick.

buckzone101 · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 10, 2012, 08:35 AM »

too bad you didnt have an old set of snowmobile skis you could rig them up instead of the downhills.. nice shack looks good

mh · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 01:07 AM »

Back again with new mods. After some test runs, it was obvius that I needed a safety net around the stove. This simple net does the job perfectly. No more burned kids

I'm still working on the skis. The downhill skis were not the way to do it. Ideas please?

appleye · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 01:56 AM »

Skis off and old snow machine?

mh · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 02:02 AM »

Snowmobile skis are expensive, even old ones. And the for the buoyancy on the snow I think I need more surface, i.e. wider and longer skis. I don't knew....

mcboatsret · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 08:15 AM »

Old snow boards maybe?

mh · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 08:38 AM »

Snowboards yes, i've been looking into that also. If I don't get a better idea, i'll go with the snowboards, even if I don't like the small (low) tips

mooseman · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 23, 2012, 12:10 PM »

Looking good!

News:

Author Topic: Shack for non-fishing purpose (Read 16102 times)

surflizard