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IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: Figure ate on Jan 03, 2020, 08:36 AM
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What did you guys prefer for your deadstick setup? I've always preferred a slip bobber to allow light biting fish to really get ahold of the bait, but I see a lot of guys going with just a soft tipped rod.
Why do you prefer the method you use?
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I have only ever done the bobber method, but I'm going to switch up to a rod rocker setup for this year. I found the bobber might be long gone before I notice. I think I'll be more likely to notice the rod moving than a finesse bobber going under. Following this thread closely.
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soft tip with a little backbone for my perch dead sticks. Line tightens up and the tip starts dropping time to set the hook. It shows up on my flasher so can drop it back to same depth fast enough and see if fish chsed the other one up and stop on them if they did or start jigging to get multiples
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I haven't decided which way I like the best, but I'm leaning toward just the correct rod for the tactic rather than a float. I've obtained a bait runner reel, so I'm hoping my bobber days are mostly over.
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What did you guys prefer for your deadstick setup? I've always preferred a slip bobber to allow light biting fish to really get ahold of the bait, but I see a lot of guys going with just a soft tipped rod.
Why do you prefer the method you use?
Whynotboth.jpg
I generally use a slip bobber weighted to have the top just barely above the surface, and a fairly soft tipped rod. Few inches of line so the bobber can be taken under. If I notice, great. If not, the rod tip acts just like a normal deadstick
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Slip float with just enough weight to keep top of float above or just below the water surface. Also about 2' of slack line. #16 treble w/ minnow. I only dead stick for Walleye.
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I don’t like a lot of clutter on my line or rods. The more I can get away with not using unnecessary terminal tackle, the better. I like a somewhat soft rod tip and a baitfeeder reel. Works well for pike. Don’t see why it wouldn't work well for other species although I haven’t tried yet.
If I’m deadsticking panfish I also prefer a soft tip. I use a TUCR Precision Noodle or a Bullwhip depending on bait selection. Crappie minnows work pretty well on the Bullwhip. Enough tip strength to monitor your minnow without looking like a bite but soft enough for the fish to confidently take it. With the PN I stick with smaller tungsten jigs and spikes. Half of jigging for pannies is deadsticking, ime, and just leaving whatever I’m using alone for a minute is more often than not enough to seal the deal on tough days.
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I use a slip bobber that is weighted so that the tip is just above the water. Then I pull out about 18" of slack in the line. There is minimal resistance when the fish hits the minnow. A lively minnow will drag the bobber back and forth across the hole. If the bobber rests up against the side of the hole, I pull the bobber across the hole to keep the minnow moving.
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YES
those were the days
watching bobbers in ice holes
with these new rods a small floating bobber is not needed
but if younger children are fishing they are
Isn't that how we all started ? .
watching rod tips has taken over. these newer rods lighter
But still one can use a spring bobber ,some bites are hard to detect
still miss using small bobber !
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My rod is right next to me and I can see the tip. The hole is further up and usually blocking the bobber from my view.
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I, like many others, prefer a bobber that is weighted so that a lively minnow can pull it down a ways and the bait runner set to pay out line with little resistance. FISH ON!! :icefish:
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I have been using pencil style slip floats exclusively for over ten years now on all my ice rods, much less resistance than even a limp tipped rod. On a light bite with a correctly weighted pencil float and a bit of slack line there is virtually no resistance and the fish gets an extra second or two to ensure a good hook set. I probably see more fish lost in the winter to guys without a float due to an early hook set than anything, especially for walleye and perch. On a really light bite for walleye the jig can be set right on the bottom with the float laying flat, when the jig is picked up the float stands up.............once again almost zero resistance. Success equals confidence............ ..fish with whatever you have confidence in, for me it is a float.
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I dont use a deadstick anymore.i quit that when i got a vexilar but if i did set out a dead stick it would have a thill mini shy bite float on it.
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I have been using pencil style slip floats exclusively for over ten years now on all my ice rods, much less resistance than even a limp tipped rod. On a light bite with a correctly weighted pencil float and a bit of slack line there is virtually no resistance and the fish gets an extra second or two to ensure a good hook set. I probably see more fish lost in the winter to guys without a float due to an early hook set than anything, especially for walleye and perch. On a really light bite for walleye the jig can be set right on the bottom with the float laying flat, when the jig is picked up the float stands up.............once again almost zero resistance. Success equals confidence............ ..fish with whatever you have confidence in, for me it is a float.
X2...perfect setup and scenario. I use these.
https://www.wingitfishing.com/product-page/quick-swap-bobbers
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Right now, my deadstick rod is an old cheap Shakespeare graphite that I have to use a bobber with because that tip isn't bending. I like the Thill pencil floats. Since I can no longer find a fiberglass Ugly Stik, I'm going to get a Jason Mitchell or Scheels deadstick rod and try it without the bobber.
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Those Beaver Dam fiberglass noodle rods are noodly. They are rated UL. So by comparing to the old Ugly Sticks, they'll be much softer. Compared to HT Ice Blues, the Beaver Dam has more backbone.
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I was kind of worried the Beaver Dams wouldn't have enough backbone.
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Fish with any size to them makes the Beaver Dams feel under powered. They are just UL rated.
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Interesting read, thanks for the replies. I guess the biggest thing keeping me using a float is not wanting to watch two rod tips. I tend to focus in on my jigging rod and can check my bobber quick with peripheral vision rather than having to watch a rod tip. Plus I fish at night a lot in a very dark shanty so a fluorescent float is just easier to monitor. I'd also worry about a deadstick with zero slack line getting pulled down the hole by a fast moving fish. To each their own though, watching rod tips seems to work extremely well for a lot of guys.
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There are many options, but my preference is a slip float with the bail left open.
I have been doing this for many years with great results. Often jigging will bring in finicky fish that will hit the dead stick but not the jig.
It's also easy to see when your minow is not lively and fresh one may be needed.
2x that your peripheral vision picks up the float easily.
(https://i.imgur.com/9l7farTl.jpg)
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There are many options, but my preference is a slip float with the bail left open.
I have been doing this for many years with great results. Often jigging will bring in finicky fish that will hit the dead stick but not the jig.
It's also easy to see when your minow is not lively and fresh one may be needed.
2x that your peripheral vision picks up the float easily.
(https://i.imgur.com/9l7farTl.jpg)
Yup. Bail open, slack line AND hi-vis line helps that peripheral vision (clear leader however) 😉
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Interesting read, thanks for the replies. I guess the biggest thing keeping me using a float is not wanting to watch two rod tips. I tend to focus in on my jigging rod and can check my bobber quick with peripheral vision rather than having to watch a rod tip. Plus I fish at night a lot in a very dark shanty so a fluorescent float is just easier to monitor. I'd also worry about a deadstick with zero slack line getting pulled down the hole by a fast moving fish. To each their own though, watching rod tips seems to work extremely well for a lot of guys.
No need to watch a jigging rod if it is good quality and you have quality braid/ fluoro. I watch a Thill pencil bobber out of the periphery of my eye while I am jigging and watching a fishfinder. If I get a strike on the jigging rod, I feel it.
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(https://scontent.ffcm1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12376388_1673409766270120_4560097107036224688_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQnBysbmn10K3BUqc1tBC4ND6VXUFfsnuOXkMZ8CEDePUE4JEGougNWE5TSFh0xaqpU&_nc_ht=scontent.ffcm1-2.fna&oh=d54b0f91332619b2e6d742a25cd5819d&oe=5E1B732A)
If I really need a strike indicator...bobber or bead.
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i go for a bobber. i can adjust a million different ways, and it works with whatever rod or line i'm using, so i can set up for 8 inch bluegill or 5 pound trout and still rely on the same sensitivity.
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For those that use slip bobbers, how do you keep the line marker in place when reeling in a fish? Seems like I always have to reset the knot after reeling in a fish with any heft to it and it really slows things down, especially fishing deeper.
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For those that use slip bobbers, how do you keep the line marker in place when reeling in a fish? Seems like I always have to reset the knot after reeling in a fish with any heft to it and it really slows things down, especially fishing deeper.
I use the string type on the small plastic sleeves. Snug 'em up good. Never an issue.
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That's all I use, too. Last weekend fishing LOW, had to reset the knot after almost every fish, no matter if I was using braid or mono. Same for my fishing buddy, so it wasnt just me. I just can't seem to get them tight enough to stay put.
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That's all I use, too. Last weekend fishing LOW, had to reset the knot after almost every fish, no matter if I was using braid or mono. Same for my fishing buddy, so it wasnt just me. I just can't seem to get them tight enough to stay put.
Are you leaving enough tails on the knot to tighten up now and then? I need to periodically.
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There are a few variables in play (target species, bait, weather, etc.) but in general for my deadstick I most often use a lite-bite ice slip bobber cut/sized to just barely float above the water line so as to provide as little resistance as possible. I've found that even a really soft tip rod (that still has proper backbone) starts to load up within a few inches of deflection and builds resistance that a finicky fish will feel and spit.
I've also found that the bobber allows me to "see" better what is happening below such as did the fish grab and run or did they slowly, very slowly, grab the bait. Slow descents happen a lot with walleye, even monster walleye. I swear they suck it in and then just sit there or swim off in slow motion. I will often wait and watch the bobber sink several more inches before setting. Quite often when it's a slow descent I'll see a second bob that I infer to mean the fish has now inhaled the lure deeper.
I don't often have an issue with the marker moving, maybe because I use braid. It does sometimes shift and I'll just reset using my flasher so not to mess around too much trying to find bottom. I either use the thread type (https://shop.northlandtackle.com/terminal-tackle/slip-knot-stop/) tightened up real good or this type (http://www.clearlyoutdoors.com/fnimall/smart_stop_bobbers_micro.phtml).
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Yeah, but how do you reel it up if you are fishing in 40 feet of water?
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A couple of things to do to prevent the slip bobber knot from slipping away. First have the rods with big eye and ceramic inserts, avoid the fly line single wire (snake guides are awesome for slips) or those titanium recoil wire guides. That small wire tends to hit the knot and catch more. Second make sure you have a reel with a big wide line roller, not the type with a precision line groove on. The knot catching and getting caught the line roller is bad.
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I have a problem with slip knots not allowing the line to flow off the reel when I want it to free fall with a light jig.
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For those that use slip bobbers, how do you keep the line marker in place when reeling in a fish? Seems like I always have to reset the knot after reeling in a fish with any heft to it and it really slows things down, especially fishing deeper.
For the stop material I have had good luck with 20lb. fly backing or the dacron black tip up line in 20 lb. I tie my knots on to the line and leave long tag ends to tighten with. I tighten them once, then move the slide, tighten again.........do this three times and have had good luck with that method. I also have a jigger made from a BBQ rotisserie, so not a true deadstick because there is some movement. It lifts the lure about 6" releases and then has a pause of about 8 seconds or so and then rises again
(https://i.imgur.com/kRKAiCb.jpg?1)
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If I got a dead stick it’s on a jawjacker
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I used to tie my own bobber stops from chartreuse or pink mason's line to save money. They were a pain to tie and slipped occasionally. Now, I just use the Rod-n-Bob's with a bead. I no longer have to steal coffee stir straws from restaurants.
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I thought I'd give this a kick to the top as it's a subject that I am quite interested in. I use slip bobbers quite a bit. I fish out in the open so those with a hole thru the middle do not work well. There are various clip-on bobbers on the market, mostly cheap little foamy jobbies. The kind shown in the pic is a bit more sturdy and can be used if you bend the clip a bit.
I use them on my active line because the smaller lakers we tend to catch are finicky eaters. I ignore the little twitches and small up-and-down motions, then wait for it to submerge before setting the hook. If I went by tugs(feel) rather than sight I'd be pulling the bait from its mouth.
For better visibility I put either a plastic straw or another piece of foam on the top of the bobber when using it on my set line. I find that slip floats are more of an advantage on the set line than the active line because I can suspend the bait above the bottom and fish with an open bail. Too many times I have seen the float go down and the rod start to bend but the fish gets unhooked before I get to the line. I don't think they hook very well on their own. They need a fisherman to 'help them out'😁
(https://i.postimg.cc/FdBwfdpS/bobber.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FdBwfdpS)
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I like to use an adjustable slip bobber set so the tip is barely above the surface. It is easily pulled under by a fish and if it is an upward bite, the bobber will rise and lay flat on the surface. Sometimes I use a tall "icehouse bobber" weighted so it is easily pulled under and is easily visible from a distance.
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I use a bait feeder reel and light 28 in light fast tip rod works for pike and walleyes and perch perfect for live bait . I use the same reels on my autos for the salmon in the harbors on lake Michigan when they freeze up .
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Deadstick 100%
Most times a UL noodle for panies
Heavier for walters, but plenty of flex
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I used to use those venom floats with great success - when adjusted right, so they barely float, fish don't feel a thing. It has been a few years...and now I seem to go primarily with spring bobbers. However, when windy the float is better to detect subtle perch bites. I'm going to try the float again. It is a little harder in 40 feet of water but can be done. And I like the BOTH/AND suggestion very much.
s
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I like to use an adjustable slip bobber set so the tip is barely above the surface. It is easily pulled under by a fish and if it is an upward bite, the bobber will rise and lay flat on the surface. Sometimes I use a tall "icehouse bobber" weighted so it is easily pulled under and is easily visible from a distance.
I usually use a clip on foam type with not much excess floatation. I just showed that red and white one in case somebody was looking for an alternative to the foam ones. For visibility on my set line I have used a very small dia , about 1/16", wooden stick painted red that adds very little extra floatation. As long as the plastic straw is not a tight fit it doesn't add much floatation either.
I looked up your 'ice house bobber' as I had never seen those before. They look quite nifty.
SHOE---what are those Venom floats? thx
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Venom Floats are the only truly adjustable foam float on the market. By simply sliding the foam up or down, you can change the buoyancy to adapt.
Venom Floats can be set at exact neutral buoyancy, creating minimal resistance for finicky fish. This adjustment capability makes the Venom Float the most sensitive bobber available. Its just what you need for light bites.
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I like to use an adjustable slip bobber set so the tip is barely above the surface. It is easily pulled under by a fish and if it is an upward bite, the bobber will rise and lay flat on the surface. Sometimes I use a tall "icehouse bobber" weighted so it is easily pulled under and is easily visible from a distance.
I have used the same technique. The only difference being I attach a red and white round plastic bobber using a small loop, so when I set the hook on a laker, the bobber will come off and I don’t have to fiddle with it to get it off the line. Works for me!
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SHOE---what are those Venom floats? thx
https://www.venom-outdoors.com/product-page/venom-floats
Scheels has them, too...I think.
s
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I just use a small foam slip bobber with just enough split shot for neutral buoyancy. Enough so the minnow can pull it down but not out of the hole!! Scares the heck out of you when a snot rocket come flying through!! :woot:
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I don't use bobbers ice fishing much anymore, but when I do, I use the glow tip Northlands cut down to where they are just barely buoyant... a fish even farts on it and it's down.
https://www.fishusa.com/Northland-Lite-Bite-Ice-Float/?sku=191606&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqJawhLHOgwMVtTGtBh3ogwE9EAQYASABEgIlkvD_BwE
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If I got a dead stick it’s on a jawjacker
x2
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A couple of things to do to prevent the slip bobber knot from slipping away. First have the rods with big eye and ceramic inserts, avoid the fly line single wire (snake guides are awesome for slips) or those titanium recoil wire guides. That small wire tends to hit the knot and catch more. Second make sure you have a reel with a big wide line roller, not the type with a precision line groove on. The knot catching and getting caught the line roller is bad.
I use rubber football type of stops that are much less prone to slipping except on my Shimano reels. they have a line groove and the stop gets stuck. I find that waxed dental floss tied around the line works quite well.
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Yeah, but how do you reel it up if you are fishing in 40 feet of water?
With a slip bobber Your bobber stop could be set at 38 ft. Your slip bobber will keep sliding up you line as you reel it in . Ending up near your hook.
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I prefer to use my Shooly rods With the spool slightly loose. & the peg inserted with several wraps of line over the peg. I modified my schooly rods with a stick across the front of the handle. So the fish cannot pull them down the hole. Many times ill see the butt sticking up & the other half of the rod is in the hole.
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Pencil style slip bobber always, less resistance.
(https://i.postimg.cc/K1fmNtGg/ROD-PAIL.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1fmNtGg)
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The only time I ever use a deadstick is with a small fathead crappie minnow for crappies. Any other time I consider it a waste of what could be a tip up. Even for walleye and such, I'd rather have a rod on a finicky fooler. I consider FF's and jawjackers tip ups. I guess to really answer the question, with a true deadstick by my side, it is always a slip bobber. I too love the foam bobbers cut to barely float.
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For the stop material I have had good luck with 20lb. fly backing or the dacron black tip up line in 20 lb. I tie my knots on to the line and leave long tag ends to tighten with. I tighten them once, then move the slide, tighten again.........do this three times and have had good luck with that method. I also have a jigger made from a BBQ rotisserie, so not a true deadstick because there is some movement. It lifts the lure about 6" releases and then has a pause of about 8 seconds or so and then rises again
(https://i.imgur.com/kRKAiCb.jpg?1)
Hi TTPH---if you are still tuned in I'd like to see more details on that set-up. I guess that is a rotisserie motor mounted so that it moves the rod, but how? thx
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when I use a dead stick in my shanty , its a quill bobber with a speed stop with a bead .
the speed stop works with out slipping on fine lines ,lace it thru twice still adjustable .
the quill bobber ride upright so you can watch it slowly decend or quickly disappear
I use slip shot to adjust the weight for correct buoyancy .
this way I can change it for what ever im fishing for .
most of the tie I run a tip-up thou
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I don't think the excess buoyancy matters very much. Here is a pic from a few days ago taken by a friend of mine who introduced me to slip floats for ice fishing. As you can see, he is using fairly big. commonly avail, bobbers. The results speak for themselves. He does quite well with the fish, better than most people l know from another website. Certainly out fishes my buddies and I whenever we are there together.
I worked out the buoyancy of a 3/8" dia float 1" long(i.e. having 1" excess buoyancy) and it is about 1/16 of an ounce.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9rGcTcDC/slipfloat.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9rGcTcDC)
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What did you guys prefer for your deadstick setup? I've always preferred a slip bobber to allow light biting fish to really get ahold of the bait, but I see a lot of guys going with just a soft tipped rod.
Why do you prefer the method you use?
I prefer using Tip Downs vs a deadstick. Much easier to see at a distance and much better for catching fish..
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Venom floats can be tweaked so that they're absolutely neutrally buoyant. The slightest nips, up or down, are registered
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It’s been four years since I last posted on this thread. I have since acquired a Jason Mitchell dead meat stick and done away with bobbers completely. I actually lost a rod down the hole a couple of years ago, due to one of those cheap red wire rod holders and had to buy a new rod and reel. I built a plywood rod holder with a hole drilled in the base that I can secure to the ice with an Eskimo anchor. Now it doesn’t go anywhere. The rod tip is super sensitive and fluorescent. I will probably never go back to bobbers again.
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Welcome back, Wyogator. Things have slowed down on here this year even when there was ice.
Good idea on the deadstick. Now get an Okuma baitfeeder reel and you'll really be pleased.
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Switched all my deadsticks to a JM Dead Meat rods. I like the action on that tip - you can see it twitch if you have a nibble, and gives plenty of time to grab the rod. If I am in an area where there are large walleye, I will either open the bale or left off the drag. Mainly just use a venom float as the bobber when sauger are biting.
Am looking at the bait feeder option for reels, but haven't popped on those yet. Seen a lot of videos of guys using them and they work.
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Welcome back, Wyogator. Things have slowed down on here this year even when there was ice.
Good idea on the deadstick. Now get an Okuma baitfeeder reel and you'll really be pleased.
Thanks Coach, I have posted several times on Ice Shanty this year. It’s just been this deadstick thread I haven’t posted on 4 years. That is my plan to get an Okuma baitfeeder for next year. I have used Shimano Baitrunners in saltwater when I lived in Florida, but have not tried them ice fishing yet.