IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: MT204 on Sep 22, 2017, 05:44 PM
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Update as of October 24, 2018 the K-Drill staff does not recommend the Mud-Mixer for their K-drill application.
Use at your risk!!!!
For the ultimate cordless ice auger. Take one K-Drill and add one Milwaukee mud mixer!
Take one Milwaukee mud mixer. Add Quik-lok chuck.
(https://i.imgur.com/go1xnkC.jpg?2)
Modify the K-drill adapter to 7/16" Quik-lok.
(https://i.imgur.com/reOFtGN.jpg?1)
Auger now "snaps" onto mixer.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mj4KtFe.jpg?1)
Want an extension? Use any of the Milwaukee Quik-Lok extensions.
(https://i.imgur.com/4n34Gau.jpg?1)
The whole unit with one 5AH battery weighs in at 12.5# With cover.
(https://i.imgur.com/Z29eMVy.jpg?1)
Now just have to wait for ICE!
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Do they sell it with the QuickLock chuck yet? Or did Add it yourself?
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So how much do you have invested, or someone else have invested in the rig we see here?? It will be interesting to see how that performs on the ice compared to a regular Milwaukee 20 volt drill. No need for a Clam plate this way, right??
Edit- Meant to say 18 volt drill, sorry. ::)
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So how much do you have invested, or someone else have invested in the rig we see here?? It will be interesting to see how that performs on the ice compared to a regular Milwaukee 20 volt drill. No need for a Clam plat this way, right??
The quik-lok chuck is available separately one of the other Milwaukee tools uses it.
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So how much do you have invested, or someone else have invested in the rig we see here?? It will be interesting to see how that performs on the ice compared to a regular Milwaukee 20 volt drill. No need for a Clam plat this way, right??
I'm a Milwaukee dealer so my investment is a bit less.
The quik-lok chuck is about $45.00. The bare tool is about $199.00. The kit which is tool, 2 5AH batteries and charger for around $350. Then have someone do the machine work on the adapter.
Was more of a project than anything.
The motor and gears are way bigger and heavy duty than the Fuel drill, but as you said no need for a Clam plate.
Same RPM and Milwaukee isn't listing the torque of the tool.
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I'm a Milwaukee dealer so my investment is a bit less.
The quik-lok chuck is about $45.00. The bare tool is about $199.00. The kit which is tool, 2 5AH batteries and charger for around $350. Then have someone do the machine work on the adapter.
Was more of a project than anything.
The motor and gears are way bigger and heavy duty than the Fuel drill, but as you said no need for a Clam plate.
Same RPM and Milwaukee isn't listing the torque of the tool.
Plus you need to add the price of the K-drill on top of all that!! That's spendy!!! :blink:
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I have a Nills 10" welded to a quick release bit that is used on a Super Hawg right now. The mixer looks great for an 8". Do both chucks come off via an Allen screw? Thanks!
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I have a Nills 10" welded to a quick release bit that is used on a Super Hawg right now. The mixer looks great for an 8". Do both chucks come off via an Allen screw? Thanks!
Yes the chucks are held on with a allen screw.
Is your SuperHawg cordless?
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Yes the chucks are held on with a allen screw.
Is your SuperHawg cordless?
I'm not sure.....but I believe a "superHawg" is the Milwaukee M18 Brushless Hammer drill with 1200in/lbs. So if I'm correct it would be cordless.
What was the reason behind using a mud mixer? Just cause? Looks like it will work, but unless a guy does a lot of dry wall stuff I'd think more people would have a use for a drill.
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I'm not sure.....but I believe a "superHawg" is the Milwaukee M18 Brushless Hammer drill with 1200in/lbs. So if I'm correct it would be cordless.
What was the reason behind using a mud mixer? Just cause? Looks like it will work, but unless a guy does a lot of dry wall stuff I'd think more people would have a use for a drill.
I do warranty and repair tools for a living and in "my" opinion there is an awful lot of stress on those gear boxes not sop much from the drilling but from carrying the whole works around.
The mud mixer is a way stronger gear box. The gear box is only one speed, no hammer drill or clutch stuff just a gear box.
Sounds like you have one of the 1/2" fuel drills.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2703-20
This is the SuperHawg.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2711-22
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The mud mixer would probably be good with a 10" auger and extension for the wheelhouse guys. I would trust Milwaukee's gear box before i would trust Clams... Especially after last years debacle.
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Yes the chucks are held on with a allen screw.
Is your SuperHawg cordless?
Yes it is the cordless m18. I am a plumbing contractor and have used it for new construction work. I love a 10" for tip up fishing. Any word on whether Milwaukee will release the mixer with the quick release already installed? Also, will it fit a regular hammer drill driver?
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Yes it is the cordless m18. I am a plumbing contractor and have used it for new construction work. I love a 10" for tip up fishing. Any word on whether Milwaukee will release the mixer with the quick release already installed? Also, will it fit a regular hammer drill driver?
I'm having a local machinist re-thread some Quik-lok chucks to 9/16 which is what most of the 1/2" drills use for a spindle.
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Acme Tools for the past 2 days was offering $20 off $100 and the mud mixer was one of the tools. Free shipping for $199.
All the upcoming holidays the tool companies have sales.
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I'm having a local machinist re-thread some Quik-lok chucks to 9/16 which is what most of the 1/2" drills use for a spindle.
Any chance I could buy one or two through you? Thanks!
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I looked my Quick-lok chuck over. Hopefully you have a plan B.
The Milwaukee drills have a rating of 1200 in. lbs. of torque, that's 100 ft. lbs.
I have serious reservations that the quick-lok chuck will transmit that much torque.
Of course My Opinion Only.
Any competant design engineer would have a 3X safety factor and having a human interface a 10X safety factor is necessary.
They are designed for the big bits. I drill with them daily at work 2 9/16 hole through 2 x 4 no problem. I also have a quick lock chuck on my super hawg that I drill 10 inch holes through the ice with.
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They are designed for the big bits. I drill with them daily at work 2 9/16 hole through 2 x 4 no problem. I also have a quick lock chuck on my super hawg that I drill 10 inch holes through the ice with.
When I first looked at the QuikLok here I was thinking the 1/4" hex drive. Looking at the QuikLok today at Home Depot I now realize it's a 7/16 Hex drive.
The Milwaukee factory guy added a 12" to a 6" and ran it with a M18 drill. Runout down there was barely noticeable. Very well made.
I still want the left-hand screw holding the QuikLok driver to the motor shaft.
whitefishmt's idea of using the QuikLok is outstanding.
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I went ahead and bought a Milwaukee mixer drill and am looking forward to seeing how it performs on the ice.
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Me too. ;D with an Nils 8” Power Point at the business end. ;D I’m gonna make my lake look like Swiss cheese. ;D
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The mud mixer is a way stronger gear box. The gear box is only one speed, no hammer drill or clutch stuff just a gear box.
The MudMixer has a rotary switch to select 200rpm, 300rpm, 400rpm and MAX (which is 500 rpm) and all are variable speed.
Attached is a picture of a adapter I had made which goes from the MudMixer output shaft to a 7/8" input (K-Drill, most full size Strikemaster augers, and the older Strike-Lite 8" synthetic auger (which I have one). I'm not fond of holding the auger bit in a chuck so all my adapters (Mora, Strikemaster Lazer Hand and Nils. All have screws holding everything together. And they all allow the left-hand screw holding the driver to the Milwaukee output shaft.
As a sidebar last week Acme had 20% off on Milwaukee which priced the MudMixer at $160. The QuikLok driver is at HD for $19 and someone has Milwaukee 2X 5AH batteries w/charger for $120. Cyber Monday was a Milwaukee lovers dream.
See the next reply for the attachment.
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(https://s2.postimg.cc/o7a92zget/IMG_1787.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/o7a92zget/)
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How are the mud mixer set ups working?
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How are the mud mixer set ups working?
Used mine this morning and it worked great.
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Do you get more holes than with the normal hammer drill?
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Do you get more holes than with the normal hammer drill?
The Mud Mixer has a larger, more powerful motor, so I would guess that you would get fewer holes with it than the drill using the same sized battery, but that’s purely speculation on my part. The gearing in each could affect battery life as well.
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Anymore verdict on how the mud mixers are working in comparison?
Is it slower? Does the battery last longer? Is it worth it?
I use the 2703-22 drill/driver at least once every other week in the off season and every few days on the ice ~3.5months - occasionally until a battery runs out. This has been the case now for a couple years and it still works?!.. I don't see the benefit of buying the dedicated mud mixer unless I had other uses for it.. the quick-lock extensions would be great, but I also use the 1/4" eskimo ice stake tool quite a bit as well.
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Hey Whitefishmt, how did you get the quicklok threaded chuck to fit the mud mixers slotted output shaft? Did you replace the output shaft with the one from the hole hawg? Any other mods or tooling needed?
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(https://s2.postimg.cc/o7a92zget/IMG_1787.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/o7a92zget/)
I think we're on the same page here DY. I was thinking of deconstructing the keyed chuck and having an adapter welded to it and being able to swap it out (as necessary) just like a drill chuck. Did you make that adapter and rather than re-invent a wheel might a second be available?
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Hey Whitefishmt, how did you get the quicklok threaded chuck to fit the mud mixers slotted output shaft? Did you replace the output shaft with the one from the hole hawg? Any other mods or tooling needed?
Milwaukee makes a Quik-loc that has the same configuration ( I call it a double d) as the mud mixer, slips right on the mixer. The only machine work was to the k drill adapter. I'll post the part number for the chuck tomorrow.
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You are the man whitefishmt. For the life of me I cannot locate that part number. Just for reference I have developed a solution to adapt the quick lok adapter to the kdrill, Strikemaster, or Lazer augers with no machining. I'll post it here when I'm done. Hopefully I can locate the chuck before the weekend.
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The Milwaukee part number for the Quik-lok is 42-66-0055.
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I'm pretty sure I found the correct chuck. Can you verify that it's part# 42-66-0055? It seems no one at Milwaukee or any service centers can give me any information on it.
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From ACME Tools:
"Hello,
Thank you for your interest in Acme Tools. The **Quik Lock Chuck** part number is 42-66-0050, sells for $42.69 each, this should only be done by (Changing) by a authorized Milwaukee Service Center if not it does Void the warranty."
Thank you
Craig
Acme Tools
From Milwaukee Tool:
Mark,
"Part number is 42-66-0050, in stock list price 42.69$ and can be bought through our customer service center 1-800-729-3878 with a credit card."
Dan Schanen
Customer Experience Tech Support Adviser
Milwaukee Tool
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I'm pretty sure I found the correct chuck. Can you verify that it's part# 42-66-0055? It seems no one at Milwaukee or any service centers can give me any information on it.
Yes it is the correct chuck. I have two in my hand.
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From ACME Tools:
"Hello,
Thank you for your interest in Acme Tools. The **Quik Lock Chuck** part number is 42-66-0050, sells for $42.69 each, this should only be done by (Changing) by a authorized Milwaukee Service Center if not it does Void the warranty."
Thank you
Craig
Acme Tools
From Milwaukee Tool:
Mark,
"Part number is 42-66-0050, in stock list price 42.69$ and can be bought through our customer service center 1-800-729-3878 with a credit card."
Dan Schanen
Customer Experience Tech Support Adviser
Milwaukee Tool
The 42-66-0050 is a THREADED (5/8"X 16) chuck and WILL NOT fit the Milwaukee mud mixer.
The 42-66-0055 is a what I call a double d, it's a circle with 2 flat sides which does fit the Mud-mixer.
Not sure what the deal is with the void the warranty statement?
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This is what a Milwaukee 42-66-0055 looks like on the drill end. (https://i.imgur.com/jGQFdQh.jpg)
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The 42-66-0050 is a THREADED (5/8"X 16) chuck and WILL NOT fit the Milwaukee mud mixer.
The 48-66-0055 is a what I call a double d, it's a circle with 2 flat sides which does fit the Mud-mixer.
Not sure what the deal is with the void the warranty statement?
Beats me. I guess people at Milwaukee and ACME don’t know what they’re talking about. I had to email them when you wouldn’t reply to my private messages asking the same questions about the Quik-Lok chuck.
DN
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Beats me. I guess people at Milwaukee and ACME don’t know what they’re talking about. I had to email them when you wouldn’t reply to my private messages asking the same questions about the Quik-Lok chuck.
DN
Sorry just checked and dodn't see any private message from Deal Ninja.
I guess they didn't know what they were talking about.
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Thanks for your help on this whitefishmt. I managed to get a order placed for one. Unfortunately it's going to take 2 weeks to get to me even though I live 30 minutes from Milwaukee Headquarters.
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Sorry just checked and dodn't see any private message from Deal Ninja.
I guess they didn't know what they were talking about.
I just sent you a new message containing both of the previous emails from October. Please confirm your receipt of it. If you're not receiving my messages, I'll ask Scott to look into the problem.
DN
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Curious how much does that Mud Mixer weigh? Looks like it about 2 or so more pounds than the M18 Fuel hammer drill.
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14# with 8” mora I am guessing 7-8# with 5ah battery
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Anymore verdict on how the mud mixers are working in comparison?
Is it slower? Does the battery last longer? Is it worth it?
I use the 2703-22 drill/driver at least once every other week in the off season and every few days on the ice ~3.5months - occasionally until a battery runs out. This has been the case now for a couple years and it still works?!.. I don't see the benefit of buying the dedicated mud mixer unless I had other uses for it.. the quick-lock extensions would be great, but I also use the 1/4" eskimo ice stake tool quite a bit as well.
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14# with 8” mora I am guessing 7-8# with 5ah battery
My scale, with just an 8" Mora (no mods) no hand crank handle..
(https://s17.postimg.cc/6ptlpk1ln/IMG_20161203_003832.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6ptlpk1ln/)
Not sure how correct my scale is, if someone else can confirm please? If it is correct, that would make the Mora 8 lighter than the Kdrill 7.5..
<°)))>{
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Curious how much does that Mud Mixer weigh? Looks like it about 2 or so more pounds than the M18 Fuel hammer drill.
Naked Mud Mixer is six pounds and 3/4 of a once. With a 5 ah battery seven pounds ten once.
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Well it sounds like it isn't as heavy as I thought it would be. I figured my Nero Mini and Ridgid drill combo is around 11-12 Pounds total. I haven't got a scale that will measure correct. Heck all I have is my Bathroom scale and it is flaky at best.
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My Mud Mixer with a 8” Eskimo bit and adapter with custom made aluminum disk weights in at 18 pounds exactly.
A sweet machine to use.
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I have been using the Mud Mixer all season also and am now modifying it to accept the Quick Lok. I use mine with a 8 in Kdrill and it's pure awesomeness. I also have the 2703 and it works great also and is likely a little faster and will drill more holes per battery. Couple of things I don't like about the 2703 are that the 2nd handle design sucks and is prone to breaking based on lots of others reviews, and I question the longevity of the gear box with a heavy bit like the kdrill or any other auger for that matter. The way the 2703's brushless design stops on a dime when you lay off the trigger worries me that it will put undue stress on that motor and gears. The Mud Mixer's handle design is far superior and more comfortable. The motor is still brushless but it's built to stop more slowly like a traditional electric drill. I have also heard that most of the stress and damage on these drills is when you are moving them around with the auger bit still attached essentially torquing the gear box with the leverage of the length and weight of the auger bit. Being able to remove it with the Quick Lok is going to be awesome. I already have the adapters made for both the kdrill and a 6 inch lazer that I will post when it's all complete. Anxiously awaiting my Quick Lok chuck now in hopes it arrives tomorrow. Already having the Milwaukee Batteries (FYI get a 9ah) I felt it was worth it to purchase the Mud Mixer and dedicate it just as a Auger. Grand total I'm in it for $220 with the Quick Lok and adapters.
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Sthorne19 & whitefishmt - good feedback.
No practical reason for me to buy the mixer other than I want one after reading your chatter and the gal has always wanted a "mixer"
The 2703 (non-hammer) is solid and takes a beating like the eagles did the vikes. Haven't tried triggering down the drill, instead have always gear locked it to a halt, thousands of times. I'm harder than ice on tools and this one over 2 years. Has the original handle and on and off like bedroom lights.
A quick connect between the ice anchor, k-drill, extensions is cool especially churnin blades in the ice like butter, i'm a fan, can't wait to get one.
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I also bit on one of these. Mine is a one trick pony; drill holes in the ice so that's it. I have no need for Quik-Lok, keyed chuck or anything "convertible".
Anyone have any info on how to deconstruct the keyed chuck that comes with the mixer? My plan is to use that as the basis for a more permanent auger attachment. Pull the chuck apart, weld in an adapter for the K and re-install just like a regular chuck only much more secure. If I would ever need to "go backwards" I could just buy another chuck at that point but it is not foreseeable to me.
I did some judicious tapping once removed from the mixer hoping it would come apart easily (more or less) but I was not rewarded.
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esox_xm, all it takes is a allen wrench to take the chuck off. It's reverse threaded though and might need a little force. I would find some sort of adapter to the gear box spindle if your going to weld it together. I still think the quick lok is the best bet for longevity as it just replaces the keyed chuck. $40 and your in business. The Quick Lok male adapter takes about 10 minutes to make with a file or a belt sander and a drill press.
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The chuck I have removed. I'm looking to take the chuck itself apart to use as the basis for a drill adapter. I figured I could permanently alter that interchangeable part without permanently modifying a main mixer part. That way it would go back on just like the chuck it was and if I needed a real chuck for some reason I'd just get one.
My head says if the chuck comes apart (and it should) I can remove the three "fingers" and that rotating collar, open up that main part (perhaps) a bit, weld in the drill shaft adapter (one that would slip over the large part of the auger shaft and fasten with a pin/bolt through) and re-install like it was a regular chuck. Completely secure and completely interchangeable with regular chuck if necessary.
Any thoughts?
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Any thoughts?
I would just use the keyed chuck, they've been working great longer than Ive been alive..
<°)))>}
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I would just use the keyed chuck, they've been working great longer than Ive been alive..
<°)))>}
I agree.
The keyed chuck is working just fine for me so far. Properly tightened in all three spots. I have hade no problems with it loosening so far.
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I agree.
The keyed chuck is working just fine for me so far. Properly tightened in all three spots. I have hade no problems with it loosening so far.
X3. Working fine for me also. I foresee no need for the Quik-Lok. The Mud Mixer/Nils just shreds the ice. It’s stupid fast cutting at 2”/second? It’s funny to see other ice fishers gawking with their mouths wide open after I drill a hole. LOL
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Well here's the deal. I did have the chuck loosen up and drop the K-Drill in one of the holes on the first run. I did test the "reverse ice chip flush" a few times so that may have contributed. I was certain that the K-Drill shaft was properly seated before tightening the chuck and tapped the key at all three points with a screwdriver handle to insure proper engagement.
I still like the idea of a dedicated, non-chuck solution for ice drill use and will pursue that. I did discover the chuck disassembly procedure but that won't happen this season (too busy using). I'll have it in place for next season and detail the adapter and procedure at that time.
Thank everyone for all their input on this thread. Made me make the leap away from petrol before they become unsaleable altogether. :thumbsup:
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I'm going to rig up an adapter to run my 10" SM Lazer Pro shaver on the Mud Mixer. Originally was thinking using the keyed chuck but after messing with the quik lok system today and seeing how rigid that system is I'm sold on it. The plan is to simply cut a 5.5" extension roughly in half. Weld the male end to 7/8 shaft for the auger and replace the chuck w/ quik lok eventually. In the meantime...use the other half of the extension (female end) chucked up in the Mud Mixer. I guess when I get the chuck swapped out I'll have to either use my m18 drill for my Kdrill or make it quick lok ready also like whitefishmt did.
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The 42-66-0050 is a THREADED (5/8"X 16) chuck and WILL NOT fit the Milwaukee mud mixer.
The 48-66-0055 is a what I call a double d, it's a circle with 2 flat sides which does fit the Mud-mixer.
Not sure what the deal is with the void the warranty statement?
Whitefishmt, I'm confused here. Is the correct part the 42 or 48? I'm bout to order the 42 but noticed ur reference that it's threaded and won't work and need the double d 48.
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Whitefishmt, I'm confused here. Is the correct part the 42 or 48? I'm bout to order the 42 but noticed ur reference that it's threaded and won't work and need the double d 48.
Well I'm bad.
I did go back and correct the part number.
It should be 42-66-0055.
Sorry about that.
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Well I'm bad.
I did go back and correct the part number.
It should be 42-66-0055.
Sorry about that.
Thank ya Sir!
Was 99.9% certain it is the 42 since couldnt find the other in searching it. When you fab'd the Kdrill did you just use an extension or is there a cheaper alternative to get the male end?
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Thank ya Sir!
Was 99.9% certain it is the 42 since couldnt find the other in searching it. When you fab'd the Kdrill did you just use an extension or is there a cheaper alternative to get the male end?
I machined it my self.
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Before everyone starts welding and fabricating on these things let me tell you what I did. I bought 2 different Milwaukee 7/8 Quick Lok hole saw bits and modified them to fit the Kdrill and lazer. The kdrill requires the separate attachment sold that you can add it to a gas power head. The bit for the kdrill is the one made for larger holes and the one for the lazer for smaller in the pictures below. Both bits are the same diameter and are just barely too big to fit the drill shaft of the lazer and the attachment for the kdrill. I simply put them on the belt sander for a few minutes and got them both to fit perfect and tight. I then drilled out the threaded hold that is used to secure the drill bit with a set screw to go all the way through the hole saw bit. The holes line up perfectly for each of the auger bits and could not be a better fit if I designed it from scratch. So much so I question even posting it here in that I think I could sell these. Literally took 5 minutes for each attachment.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/ymerex9wl/image1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ymerex9wl/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/69j9ofllh/image1_2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/69j9ofllh/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/ksqepuu5x/Kdrill_bit.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ksqepuu5x/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/93mf1vvhh/lazer_bit.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/93mf1vvhh/)
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Side note in that the drill bit that comes with both of the hole saw bits is the exact size you need to drill through the bit.
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Great idea!
Is the hole saw portion you sanded approximately 3/4 or 7/8? If the hole saw bit is 7/8", that is exactly what I'm going for. It will fit my SM power auger and the K drill (with provided adapter removed).
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It's 3/4 as it only fits the Lazer without the kdrill adapter.
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Great idea!
I love it, there is after all more than one way to skin a cat.
No disrespect but for the sake of possible confusion your images are not correct.
49-56-7000, 7/16" Small Thread Arbor.
(https://i.imgur.com/P898MHH.jpg)
49-56-7055, 7/16" Large Thread Quick Change Arbor is the larger one but couldn't find a correct image with the groove.
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You are correct. I pulled the non quick lok images. This is the exact one that fits the kdrill power head attachment. Please keep in mind that you can also use the quick lok extensions for a auger extension also. I believe they have a 5 inch and a 18inch extension.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/7g6lqlmar/kdrill_quick_lok.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7g6lqlmar/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/6dwf82b77/quick_lok_extension.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6dwf82b77/)
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You are correct. I pulled the non quick lok images. This is the exact one that fits the kdrill power head attachment. Please keep in mind that you can also use the quick lok extensions for a auger extension also. I believe they have a 5 inch and a 18inch extension.
Also is the 12" extension Milwaukee #48-28-1040. The 5", 12" & 18" are all available at your friendly HD store.
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I'm going to rig up an adapter to run my 10" SM Lazer Pro shaver on the Mud Mixer. Originally was thinking using the keyed chuck but after messing with the quik lok system today and seeing how rigid that system is I'm sold on it. The plan is to simply cut a 5.5" extension roughly in half. Weld the male end to 7/8 shaft for the auger and replace the chuck w/ quik lok eventually. In the meantime...use the other half of the extension (female end) chucked up in the Mud Mixer. I guess when I get the chuck swapped out I'll have to either use my m18 drill for my Kdrill or make it quick lok ready also like whitefishmt did.
The adapter you make for the 10" SM Lazer shaver will go right into the Kdrill. They are both .875 diameter. The strike master has a 8mm screw thru and the Kdrill has a 5/16-18 screw thru, they are only a few thousands of an inch different.
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I'm going to rig up an adapter to run my 10" SM Lazer Pro shaver on the Mud Mixer. Originally was thinking using the keyed chuck but after messing with the quik lok system today and seeing how rigid that system is I'm sold on it. The plan is to simply cut a 5.5" extension roughly in half. Weld the male end to 7/8 shaft for the auger and replace the chuck w/ quik lok eventually. In the meantime...use the other half of the extension (female end) chucked up in the Mud Mixer. I guess when I get the chuck swapped out I'll have to either use my m18 drill for my Kdrill or make it quick lok ready also like whitefishmt did.
Welding the extension to the the 7/8" shaft will ruin the heat-treatment of the Milwaukee extension and if the 2 parts are not on dead center the auger will run crazy on the ice.
Do it right and bore a hole in the 7/8 diameter to match the Milwaukee extension and pin it together.
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Bored and pinned it....looks like will work slick. Think after get the quik lok chuck put on going to call this setup the 'Ice Hawg'! Will take it out tomorrow to see how it handles the 10" shaver.
(https://s18.postimg.cc/qiei3cuv9/15182163389302083011743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qiei3cuv9/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/yb55vfo0l/15182164143161604278339.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yb55vfo0l/)
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Very interesting topic. I might have to retire my 2706 and get a mud mixer.
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I machined it my self.
Whitefish, did you simply machine 3 more flats onto the current k-drill adapter or did you have cut the end off and make something new and then somehow mount it to what still looks like the stock K-Drill adapter? At a quick glance it looks like, but I have not measured, that I can just mill the 3 extra flats on it and lathe the slot to make it 7/16" hex quik-loc compatible.
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Whitefish, did you simply machine 3 more flats onto the current k-drill adapter or did you have cut the end off and make something new and then somehow mount it to what still looks like the stock K-Drill adapter? At a quick glance it looks like, but I have not measured, that I can just mill the 3 extra flats on it and lathe the slot to make it 7/16" hex quik-loc compatible.
Yep. Just milled 3 more flats and turned the groove.
Wish the mfg of the ice drills would make them that way from the factory!
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Just an FYI for those looking to buy the Quik-LOC for the Mud Mixer. Part number is 42-66-0055 and can be ordered via customer service center at 1-800-729-3878 with a credit card. As of 12/18/2018 they charged me $49.37 for the part + shipping and are UNABLE to tell you the shipping cost upon ordering nor could they tell me the shipping type (I'd prefer to reduce cost and select normal if that was possible). Apparently, it gets determined after packaging and during actual shipping, so they just charge you later. They told me there was no way to determine it and they could NOT tell me ahead of time or even let me confirm the cost before charging me. It turned out to cost ~$15 to ship to Webster, MN. I find it hard to believe they can't estimate shipping like every other website that allows you to order stuff. $15 also sounds a bit excessive for the size and weight of this item, I haven't got the part yet but I doubt the shipping will be fast.
Anyway, be aware, the part is going to cost you ~$65.00 simply to upgrade the new tool to what it should have been out of the box.
Here is the Milwaukee service parts cost page (note, the cost did differ slightly than shown here): https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Support/PartsPricing (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Support/PartsPricing)
Here are the instructions to remove the chuck shipped with the mud mixer: https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-06-2810.pdf (https://documents.milwaukeetool.com/54-06-2810.pdf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rzgyMWNn/part-p-2576095-385167082.gif) (https://postimg.cc/rzgyMWNn)
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I made my own direct connect adapter for my mud mixer replacing the Chuck. Shaft size same as ION quick release, clam plate, Nills and Mora hand crank shaft. No chance of loosing an auger.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WhvZfx7R/20180928-145449.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhvZfx7R)
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I’m not sure why all the hate for the chuck? I used the Mud Mixer with the standard chuck all year last year with an 8” Nils and it performed flawlessly. Lost on the whole Quik-Lok thing?
DN
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The reason the mud-mixer comes with a standard chuck is because most "mud" mixing implements are not 7/16" and not 6 sided only 3 sided.
The reason I went with the QUIK-LOC chuck was for quick removal, not having to worry about the drill falling out and not worrying about losing the chuck key at the most inopportune time.
The standard chuck works just fine, in fact I used my mud-mixer for mixing drywall and thinset mortar this summer on my sons house, and yes all my mud mixer tools are only 3 sided.
Kind of a novel idea using it for what it was intended.
The mixer only fell out once or twice, luckily the bucket caught it. ::)
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I’m not sure why all the hate for the chuck? I used the Mud Mixer with the standard chuck all year last year with an 8” Nils and it performed flawlessly. Lost on the whole Quik-Lok thing?
DN
I don’t have a problem with the chuck, but the quick release is much nicer if you wanna break it down at the end of the day. Also, I have never had the quick release drop an auger.
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Found the QuikLok chuck for about $50 to my door here: https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/42-66-0055-7-16in-hex-quick-lock-assembly-milwaukee (https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/42-66-0055-7-16in-hex-quick-lock-assembly-milwaukee).
You can choose from a number of shipping methods, First Class is $5.22. I'm good with that. Going to go Sthorne19's route and mod each auger to a QuikLok fitting. Easier in the end and I like you can break it down to fit in a smaller sled easily.
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What speed are you guys running your mud mixers on? Anybody had issues with them shutting off? I have one with a 8" pistol bit and quick lok but have not used it yet.
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What speed are you guys running your mud mixers on? Anybody had issues with them shutting off? I have one with a 8" pistol bit and quick lok but have not used it yet.
Mine was shutting off the other day on an 8” orange Nils. Not too impressed. Might put it back on the smaller auger from now on. I run it balls to the wall on high speed. On any speed, it was struggling after the first six holes. 6” of HARD ice.
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What speed are you guys running your mud mixers on? Anybody had issues with them shutting off? I have one with a 8" pistol bit and quick lok but have not used it yet.
Running 8" K-Drill, max RPM (550). Only time it shuts off is when I release the trigger or the battery's dry. Last weekend a coupla hundred holes thru 8". Last year up to 24" of ice got about 25 - 30 per 5 Ah.
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Thanks guys, guess ill just have to give it a try. I opted for the mud mixer because of the adjustable handle and quik lok chuck compatibility. Would be a little disappointed if it has issues with shutting down but could probably sell it and get a 2804 pretty easily
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Mine was shutting off the other day on an 8” orange Nils. Not too impressed. Might put it back on the smaller auger from now on. I run it balls to the wall on high speed. On any speed, it was struggling after the first six holes. 6” of HARD ice.
I wonder if your batteries are giving up the ghost? That is completely opposite of my experience, I run an 8” blue Nils non-pp, hasn’t been sharpened in years. I can drill 30-40 holes in 12” ice and be down one bar on my battery (fresh 9.0). It’s an absolute beast and nothing seems to stop it. You might want to look into the health of the battery or mixer, it should do WAY better than what you are seeing.
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I wonder if your batteries are giving up the ghost? That is completely opposite of my experience, I run an 8” blue Nils non-pp, hasn’t been sharpened in years. I can drill 30-40 holes in 12” ice and be down one bar on my battery (fresh 9.0). It’s an absolute beast and nothing seems to stop it. You might want to look into the health of the battery or mixer, it should do WAY better than what you are seeing.
I'll second this. Something has got to be wrong. I have the 5.0ah batteries, 2704 drill, and 8" blue Nils and have drilled 40-50 holes in a day and have never had a shutdown.
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I'll second this. Something has got to be wrong. I have the 5.0ah batteries, 2704 drill, and 8" blue Nils and have drilled 40-50 holes in a day and have never had a shutdown.
This is about the MudMixer not the 2704 drill.
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I wonder if your batteries are giving up the ghost? That is completely opposite of my experience, I run an 8” blue Nils non-pp, hasn’t been sharpened in years. I can drill 30-40 holes in 12” ice and be down one bar on my battery (fresh 9.0). It’s an absolute beast and nothing seems to stop it. You might want to look into the health of the battery or mixer, it should do WAY better than what you are seeing.
What frustrated me the most was that I was running a brand new 12 amp hour battery and the drill is brand new as well. Used it maybe once or twice last season. Next time I’m out I will give it another try with some different batteries just to see. If I still have that same problem, the drill will be returned for a new one. Thanks for letting me know your expenses guys
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Not sure but are the k drill shafts aluminum ?? If so carefull you don't twist the k drill shaft in to a pretzel with the mud mixer I know aluminum is not as hard as steel but it is lighter so be carefull...
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I'm considering the Mud Mixer, but am worried a bit about torque with the KD. What's the in/lbs of this tool?
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To my knowledge Milwaukee does not offer a torque spec for this tool. What is your concern, too much or not enough? Per Grainger tech specs: "Max Torque-Supplier does not capture these measures for this specific product".
Over the last year into this one, paired with the K-D, I've drilled as much as 22" without binding or stalling. Operation is smooth and has plenty of power to punch thru the last bit at the bottom of the hole, often leaving a pair of "half hole" sized chips. I run it @ max RPM on the variable dial which is a very positive setting.
Is there enough to twist up a drill shaft should it suddenly bind? Don't know so I'd have to say "maybe".
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My worry would be shredding the flights and the aluminum shaft on the KD with a drill motor with too much torque.
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It's interesting, the question isn't as much about the Mud Mixer as it is about the durability of the auger he wants to drive with it.
I've had some concerns about the plastic flights too. My belief is they stand a better chance of getting damaged in transport or storage than in any of the holes I've drilled to date. I did re-order the flights so chips clear a little better. In 12 - 13" last week I didn't have to lift and clear once. Over that depth I'll probably have to L&C only once and maybe twice in 20"+.
As far as the auger shaft, I've never given it a thought until now. It's not solid but it is quite a thick walled tube. As I think about it I'm not sure a tube twists any easier/harder than a solid shaft. Perhaps there's a real engineer here that can chip in on that.
Tell ya what 52, gimme another coupla seasons and we'll see if I can wreck something :roflmao: If I do I'll let ya know... ;)2
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It's interesting, the question isn't as much about the Mud Mixer as it is about the durability of the auger he wants to drive with it.
Years ago, Strikemaster had a 8" synthetic auger (Strikelite). Its came on their first 4-stroke Strikemaster. 1 year in they discontinued the synthetic auger.
I called and was told many ice-fishermen drilled a hole almost through and left the auger in for a nice vertical storage. We all know those holes always leak water and many of the augers froze in. The big guys just grabbed the auger and pulled it out, wrecking flites.
Strikemaster told registered owners to destroy the synthetic auger and they would send a steel auger for the cost of shipping.
If someone out there needs/wants the synthetic auger, blades, or power-point, $50 + shipping cost.
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I've done the partial hole for the auger to keep it up off the ice. Never had a water problem unless it was melting or raining and water was running in the hole and then it never froze.
K-D does say to NOT do that and I know why. Even if it doesn't freeze in, one errant stumble/bump and you've got busted (not just bent) flights so I've never done that with my K-D even though it's been part of my routine with steel augers for decades. They also say to clear chips from the hole by lifting from time to time. In thick ice, I'll guess the concern is the weight of the ice chips on the flights, especially if they build to the point where it's hard to move 'em from the hole by flight power alone because of the inherent flex. So yeah, there's some caveats with plastic/synthetic flights but nothing that a bit of common sense can't overcome. Certainly not a deal breaker for me but I can see where it might cause some issues for folks that either don't read/ignore the instructions or just don't think ahead a little bit.
This is one of the many reasons I love IS. So many experiences, viewpoints and opinions from all across the country gives me lots to think about. I'd almost forgotten about the StrikeLite so thanks for the reminder AND the caution for K-D users.
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My worry would be shredding the flights and the aluminum shaft on the KD with a drill motor with too much torque.
While I think you might have a valid concern, mine is that if I would ever drill into driftwood or some other piece of foreign debris in the ice that abruptly stops the auger. I certainly think I could do damage to the auger, but my concern, first and foremost, would be breaking my wrists and arms. I have developed, and these tools have earned an enormous amount of respect from me. They are incredibly powerful. After a drill accident late last winter, there is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that these tools (Mud Mixer and drills) can break bones and tear ligaments and tendons.
DN
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I was thinking of using the quick lok on a normal Milwaukee drill and not the mud mixer. Is this part number all I need (49-56-7055) or do I need another adapter to put on the kdrill? Also I believe I have a quick lok adapter for the drill but do you suggestions for one of those as well. This may help others trying to do the same. Thank you in advance!
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Depends on what drill you have. There isn't a Quik-Lok for every model.
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Depends on what drill you have. There isn't a Quik-Lok for every model.
can't you just buy an adapter that fits in the drill instead of replacing the chuck? I would think it would still be strong enough.
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Just buy a short quick lock extension and tighten in your chuck real good. Just leave it in for the season.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-5-1-2-in-x-7-16-in-QUIK-LOK-Universal-Extension-Bit-48-28-1030/100645490
The concern might be that the may chuck loosen up over time and the entire setup will fall out into the hole, at least that was always my concern.
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Just buy a short quick lock extension and tighten in your chuck real good. Just leave it in for the season.
Problem here is when you let off the trigger the electronic brake shows up and the INSTANT STOP loosens the chuck and our beloved
synthetic auger takes a dive for the bottom.
Tightening REAL GOOD is not good enough. Get rid of the chuck and thread the driver on with a L.H. screw to hold everything on.
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The kdrill requires the separate attachment sold that you can add it to a gas power head. T
Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate
Having a hell of a time getting this whole setup going. Bought a mud mixer a few weeks ago, then ordered the wrong Quik Loc chuck, got the one that is for a threaded shaft not double d. Now I am having trouble figuring out how to make an adapter.
Should have just stuck with my Fuel drill, this is becoming a nightmare.
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Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate
Having a hell of a time getting this whole setup going. Bought a mud mixer a few weeks ago, then ordered the wrong Quik Loc chuck, got the one that is for a threaded shaft not double d. Now I am having trouble figuring out how to make an adapter.
Should have just stuck with my Fuel drill, this is becoming a nightmare.
Can't you just get by using the OEM chuck?
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Can't you just get by using the OEM chuck?
Sure I can but I want the Quik Loc very bad. The Quik Loc is actually one of the primary reasons I bought the mud mixer in the first place. It would be an awesome setup for a lot of reasons.
If the mud mixer used a hand tightening chuck, I may have stuck with that, but you have to check the tightness of the chuck almost every time you drill because it loosens up. With my Fuel drill I just am in the habit of twisting the hand chuck tight every time I go to drill. Also, the K Drill extention is $49.95. I'd rather use a Quik Loc extension to be honest and the 6" K drill really needs an extension. I have an auger rack on my snowmobile but I'd rather not travel with the mud mixer attached. It would be a slick system to use the Quik Loc. I would also probably modify my Eskimo ice anchor tool to work with Quik Loc.
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Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate
The system is super awesome once you get it together. We just got ours up and running over Christmas and it was worth the effort. The most challenging part is getting the K-Drill end to fit into the Quik-Loc, there is no part you can buy off the shelf that I've seen. What we found was the easiest is to take the piece on the K-Drill that fits into the chuck and modify it to fit the Quik-Loc. This piece comes off the K-Drill with one screw and can then be easily worked with. Stock it had 3 flats, you need to mill, file, sand, etc. 3 additional flats on to it such that it has 6 flat sides. After that a groove needs to be turned into it. Buy the Quik-Loc extension and use that as a template for what you are trying to create. I have access to a mill and lathe so this was relatively easy and took less than an hour. I think it could be done relatively easy with just a belt sanded or even some hand files and vise.
Additional pictures of what I did can be found in this thread:
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=360717.msg3863691#msg3863691 (https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=360717.msg3863691#msg3863691)
Good Luck!
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Doctorgee, you have a PM.
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Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see.
From the K-D website:
"No adapter required to connect the K-drill to the Strikemaster power head, just slide the float down 3-4 inches exposing the socket-head cap screw that holds the drive adapter in the drive tube, remove SHCS and remove drive adapter and insert Strikemaster output shaft into the K-drill, re-insert the socket head cap screw (SHCS) and go drill holes. On some Strikemasters the through hole in the output shaft is a little close to the gear case resulting in a little modification to the top of the K-drill to fit a bolt through or to redrill a through hole a little higher on the K-drill shaft and using a 5/16 bolt with nyloc nut to hold auger to power head"
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Not sure but are the k drill shafts aluminum ?? If so carefull you don't twist the k drill shaft in to a pretzel with the mud mixer I know aluminum is not as hard as steel but it is lighter so be carefull...
Drilled well over 600 holes in the last 2 years in ice up to 30".
No pretzels yet and doubt there will be!
Will someone be able to, you bet no doubt in my mind!!!!!!
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Drilled well over 600 holes in the last 2 years in ice up to 30".
No pretzels yet and doubt there will be!
Will someone be able to, you bet no doubt in my mind!!!!!!
Don't dought its going to work .. but just suggesting caution. With the bigger mud mixers DC motors are know to out torque ac motors and these are DC motors we use in our drills.. we all know what torque does to lug on a wheel you over torque them.. they break!! under torque them they fall off "as in don't work" .you got to have that happy medium.. just like guys that build race cars torque kills with wheel hop it Will grenade or explode a trans.. or a rear end very easily.. once the vht on the track get the tires to stick and all that torqure some things going to give and break..
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Ahhh, well ain't that just the edge. Want enough power/torque to power through 2 feet of ice BUT if it binds/sticks and tweaks the shaft it's too much. Pick one and live with the rest. Just like fishing wire for pike and living with the possible reduction of bonus bass/walleye/whatever bites as opposed to fishing plastic for those "bonus" species and living with the eventual bite off from pike.
Ain't no perfect answer. Pick one and deal with it... It's all about tradeoffs.
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Don't dought its going to work .. but just suggesting caution. With the bigger mud mixers DC motors are know to out torque ac motors and these are DC motors we use in our drills.. we all know what torque does to lug on a wheel you over torque them.. they break!! under torque them they fall off "as in don't work" .you got to have that happy medium.. just like guys that build race cars torque kills with wheel hop it Will grenade or explode a trans.. or a rear end very easily.. once the vht on the track get the tires to stick and all that torqure some things going to give and break..
Couldn't agree with you more on the caution.
The mud mixer doesn't have a dc motor, it's a brushless motor (3 phase ac for lack of better words).
"IF" you over work the mud mixer it will shut down.
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Couldn't agree with you more on the caution.
The mud mixer doesn't have a dc motor, it's a brushless motor (3 phase ac for lack of better words).
"IF" you over work the mud mixer it will shut down.
You plugging your in to a genarator? If it has a battery it's dc motor.. dc to ac inverters are to big to install in the mud mixer body so it has to be dc.. just a heads up.. just cause its carbon brush brush less don't mean it's ac.. three phase an single phase shaded pole motor etc.. can be brushless same with a few type of dc motors ... if you need more info on motors and controls feel free to take the same motors and controls classes I took in college.. 10 to 15 yrs ago..
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You plugging your in to a genarator? If it has a battery it's dc motor.. dc to ac inverters are to big to install in the mud mixer body so it has to be dc.. just a heads up.. just cause its carbon brush brush less don't mean it's ac.. three phase an single phase shaded pole motor etc.. can be brushless same with a few type of dc motors ... if you need more info on motors and controls feel free to take the same motors and controls classes I took in college.. 10 to 15 yrs ago..
Nope don't plug it into a generator, never said I did.
Your correct should have worded it a bit different.
MM is not a brushed dc motor like most cordless tools "use" to be.
I stated "3 phase ac for lack of better words".
Quote from wiki " Brushless DC electric motor (BLDC motors, BL motors) also known as electronically commutated motors (ECMs, EC motors), or synchronous DC motors, are synchronous motors powered by DC electricity via an inverter or switching power supply which produces an AC electric current to drive each phase of the motor via a closed loop controller. The controller provides pulses of current to the motor windings that control the speed and torque of the motor."
Probably more than what most people want to know.
The "AC" current would really be a switched (plus/minus) Square wave instead of a sine wave(AC)?
In fact most brushless cordless tools have pixies, unicorns and fairy dust inside to make them work, just open one up and look. ;)
Thanks for the offer on the school, already went to 3 years of trade school (electric/electronics) and 35 years in the business. ;)
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Like to see them fit a sync drive in a mud mixer casing.. smallest I know of is size of a pack of cig's must be the gearing that makes it work..