IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Topic started by: Iceassin on Oct 28, 2018, 03:13 PM
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Will X country skis work? Too narrow?
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Ive built smittys on both type of skis both make pulling a breeze.i barely notice a difference.
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Ive built smittys on both type of skis both make pulling a breeze.i barely notice a difference.
Thanks Doc...project for next year ;D
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Doc is right, I too have used both types of skis, not much difference, just don't overload your sled or flip over with too much weight when using xc skis, it might sink in deep light snow.
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Doc is right, I too have used both types of skis, not much difference, just don't overload your sled or flip over with too much weight when using xc skis, it might sink in deep light snow.
10-4
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One more question...what do you use for the risers...2X6 or 2X8 ?
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How high do you think you will need to be. A buddy of mine used 2x4's and it worked ok. I used 2X8's cuz I had some left over from a project. Basically, it depends on what you have laying around.
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One more question...what do you use for the risers...2X6 or 2X8 ?
14-16 foot of rope a must...attached to skis so you will be lifting up....weight to the rear upon loading ..the higher you go the more tippy it gets ...the wider skis width is a plus … spreads the weight some. Smittys shine in less then a foot of snow ...although in deeper snow they can work better the dragging without them but can seem not as advantageous . Good Luck with your build.
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Yq8CtJRS/smitty.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think I went with 2x10's
I liked the height but like DieHard said, be wary of tipping.
We had so much snow last year in MT that the trails getting to the water were pretty skinny and it made it a challenge to get the sled down the trails. I broke mine twice but that was my own design fault. I think this year instead of 4 risers I'll go with two, should make it way more durable.
Only challenge i find is keeping the sled from moving sideways and back and forth. I did put those little sides on to keep it from moving from side to side and I also made posts in the cross braces to set the sled on to keep it from moving back and forth. But, there has to be better options.....
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Good points fellas. Probably going with 2X8's. I'll be pulling a fx50 Shappell wind break ( 27# ) with 1 bucket ( w/ 4 rods and reels) , flasher, auger and small tackle bag so not a lot of weight. Going to make it wide as possible and max. on the length between risers on skis. Should make it fairly stable. As for the rope, is that TOTAL length or double it to get 14-16' on each side?
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Long rope is def better......another thing to think about, if you go down a lot of hills, like a boat launch, etc....wouldnt hurt to put an eye bolt in the back that you can clip a rope to to 'walk it down'......that can also be used if you ever have the need to daisy chain a couple of sleds together....
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Long rope is def better......another thing to think about, if you go down a lot of hills, like a boat launch, etc....wouldnt hurt to put an eye bolt in the back that you can clip a rope to to 'walk it down'......that can also be used if you ever have the need to daisy chain a couple of sleds together....
Good ideas PN :thumbsup:
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Yq8CtJRS/smitty.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Only challenge i find is keeping the sled from moving sideways and back and forth. I did put those little sides on to keep it from moving from side to side and I also made posts in the cross braces to set the sled on to keep it from moving back and forth. But, there has to be better options.....
Bungy cords or ratchet straps will hold the shanty in place.
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Bungy cords or ratchet straps will hold the shanty in place.
Got PLENTY of bungees!
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That's why I have the "eye hooks" but getting on the water in some places can be pretty Western and bungees alone won't hold everything in place. Ratchets probably will though...just not as convenient..
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Bungy cords or ratchet straps will hold the shanty in place.
Thinking strips of shingle or roofing felt across 2X4's might help. Possibly velcro on ends of 2X4 and outer edge/ bottom of sled. Keep sled from moving in any direction...along with bungees. :-\
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Thinking strips of shingle or roofing felt across 2X4's might help. Possibly velcro on ends of 2X4 and outer edge/ bottom of sled. Keep sled from moving in any direction...along with bungees. :-\
I used a round rubberized roofing patch cut in thirds on my crossbars. My sled really stays put.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWC4vMzh/F27-D623-E-1580-4508-9-B37-72-B4-BF61-FD30.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWC4vMzh)
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I used a round rubberized roofing patch cut in thirds on my crossbars. My sled really stays put.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWC4vMzh/F27-D623-E-1580-4508-9-B37-72-B4-BF61-FD30.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWC4vMzh)
THATS what I'm talking about...now you got me thinking. Even those rubber drawer liners for tool boxes would work. Thanks lynng :thumbsup:
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Got PLENTY of bungees!
If stuff shifts when you have bungees tightened down be careful. One came loose and hit me right in between the eyes. I was really lucky it didn't hit me in the eye. My glasses dug into my nose and I had really good gash. By the time I walked back to the truck to clean it up the blood had frozen and I was no longer bleeding. I guess those single digit days are good for something.
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If stuff shifts when you have bungees tightened down be careful. One came loose and hit me right in between the eyes. I was really lucky it didn't hit me in the eye. My glasses dug into my nose and I had really good gash. By the time I walked back to the truck to clean it up the blood had frozen and I was no longer bleeding. I guess those single digit days are good for something.
Yessir PM86 ;)
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good advice..i didnt think about some kind of rubber surface to increase friction...
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I'm also working on building my first smitty. What I have noticed about both your approach and mine that a lot of others seemed to miss, we are researching designs before just slapping some wood on skis. From what I have gathered...
a 16' rope total should be fine if tied to the ends of the skis (about 8 foot from sled)
this rope should also be long enough to drop underneath the sled and hold onto out the back for downhill sections as you walk behind the sled.
eye bolts in the ends of the 2x4 cross beams for bungees or tie downs.
downhill skis have a few more positive opinions than xcountry. (xcountry better than no skis but not as good in deep snow)
too tall of a smitty without being wide enough can tip over, especially if the load is not balanced left-right and goes on uneven terrain.
adding grip tape or rubber to hold your gear on helps from things shifting in transport
if you get a lot of ice without snow on top, adding a bar on the back between the skis that you can stand on and push/ride like a dog sled (just an idea i came up with after someone made a joke about riding a smitty on ice)
(getting really crazy now) adding wheels for when going over gravel or asphalt to save the skis
all of this information is coming from my research not my experience.
a key to remember, this is a sled for ice fishing gear. use what you have laying around whenever possible and dont stress over how it could be better. you are going to use it to get out fishing more, so it is a win regardless of the fancy features.
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Sounds like you have the bases covered Noon!
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I'm also working on building my first smitty. What I have noticed about both your approach and mine that a lot of others seemed to miss, we are researching designs before just slapping some wood on skis. From what I have gathered...
a 16' rope total should be fine if tied to the ends of the skis (about 8 foot from sled)
this rope should also be long enough to drop underneath the sled and hold onto out the back for downhill sections as you walk behind the sled.
eye bolts in the ends of the 2x4 cross beams for bungees or tie downs.
downhill skis have a few more positive opinions than xcountry. (xcountry better than no skis but not as good in deep snow)
too tall of a smitty without being wide enough can tip over, especially if the load is not balanced left-right and goes on uneven terrain.
adding grip tape or rubber to hold your gear on helps from things shifting in transport
if you get a lot of ice without snow on top, adding a bar on the back between the skis that you can stand on and push/ride like a dog sled (just an idea i came up with after someone made a joke about riding a smitty on ice)
(getting really crazy now) adding wheels for when going over gravel or asphalt to save the skis
all of this information is coming from my research not my experience.
a key to remember, this is a sled for ice fishing gear. use what you have laying around whenever possible and dont stress over how it could be better. you are going to use it to get out fishing more, so it is a win regardless of the fancy features.
Research...design...ex ecute :thumbsup:
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I'm also working on building my first smitty. What I have noticed about both your approach and mine that a lot of others seemed to miss, we are researching designs before just slapping some wood on skis. From what I have gathered...
a 16' rope total should be fine if tied to the ends of the skis (about 8 foot from sled)
this rope should also be long enough to drop underneath the sled and hold onto out the back for downhill sections as you walk behind the sled.
eye bolts in the ends of the 2x4 cross beams for bungees or tie downs.
downhill skis have a few more positive opinions than xcountry. (xcountry better than no skis but not as good in deep snow)
too tall of a smitty without being wide enough can tip over, especially if the load is not balanced left-right and goes on uneven terrain.
adding grip tape or rubber to hold your gear on helps from things shifting in transport
if you get a lot of ice without snow on top, adding a bar on the back between the skis that you can stand on and push/ride like a dog sled (just an idea i came up with after someone made a joke about riding a smitty on ice)
(getting really crazy now) adding wheels for when going over gravel or asphalt to save the skis
all of this information is coming from my research not my experience.
a key to remember, this is a sled for ice fishing gear. use what you have laying around whenever possible and dont stress over how it could be better. you are going to use it to get out fishing more, so it is a win regardless of the fancy features.
One thing I would add is to be sure the center of the weight of the sled is over the spot where the old ski bindings were attached. This will not necessarily be centered front to back. The skis were designed to carry weight and "float" best with weight centered over the bindings.
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Ok...one more question. I put the bug in my daughter's ear that I might like a "Smitty Sled" kit for xmas. So, everything is 2X4 construction, making the risers 3.5". Not as high as I would like but...and the cross braces are 24". My sled has a base that is 32" wide and 44" long at the top...little shorter on bottom. So it's small. And it will be carrying less than 100# including my sled. Will this be high enough to work in "most" conditions?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/5Q1Y8jFD/IMG-4953.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Q1Y8jFD)
Just finished it, built it out of my sons old 4' skis
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(https://i.postimg.cc/5Q1Y8jFD/IMG-4953.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Q1Y8jFD)
Just finished it, built it out of my sons old 4' skis
Nice! :thumbsup:
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build your smitty to fit what you're going to haul. measure your jet sled, shanty tub, milk crates, whatever you plan on putting on the smitty. sometimes the top is bigger than the bottom, so don't measure there. (don't ask how i know this), Wide and tall is good, I built mine so the ski's were as wide as snowmobile ski's, about 4ft. makes for easier pulling. Height matters if you get a lot of snow in your area. tips in above posts are good about securing your load, eye screws, hooks, something to hold a bungee or ratchet strap. long rope. I added a piece of plywood across the top of mine as the tub kept sliding off even with straps holding it, see above about measuring top and bottom, I put eye bolts on the ends of the cross pieces to keep it in place also. Wheels help too. Have fun building
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So, got the skis, lumber, hardware and rope and quite possibly roof felt for cross braces ( anti-slide for shanty tub ). One last question...how important is it to counter sink wood screws when attaching skis to risers? Very?...somewhat?...not at all? :-\
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So, got the skis, lumber, hardware and rope and quite possibly roof felt for cross braces ( anti-slide for shanty tub ). One last question...how important is it to counter sink wood screws when attaching skis to risers? Very?...somewhat?...not at all? :-\
Very.... ;)
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X2 on the very, the screws will catch if not counter sunk
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Thank you gentlemen ;)
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Very:)
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one thing you might find when drilling through the skis and trying to c'sink them. Many skis are 2 thin pieces of hard material sandwiching a thicker foam core. When you try to c'sink the first layer it might just make a larger hole, it'll be more like a counter bored hole. It did with mine. It still worked fine but instead of a flat head screw counter sunk to the first layer I used a panhead screw
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one thing you might find when drilling through the skis and trying to c'sink them. Many skis are 2 thin pieces of hard material sandwiching a thicker foam core. When you try to c'sink the first layer it might just make a larger hole, it'll be more like a counter bored hole. It did with mine. It still worked fine but instead of a flat head screw counter sunk to the first layer I used a panhead screw
Thanks Spider...good to know.
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If your using something like galvanized deck screws you can usually drill a small hole and when you screw the screw in it usually sets its self low enough. ;)
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I would counter sink and put some silicone over them if I was going to make a new one. If they stick out at all they could get broken or bent.
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So, got the skis, lumber, hardware and rope and quite possibly roof felt for cross braces ( anti-slide for shanty tub ). One last question...how important is it to counter sink wood screws when attaching skis to risers? Very?...somewhat?...not at all? :-\
Counter sinking is important if they hang below the ski will produce drag etc...just use a size or two up from your wood screw diameter to drill out the hole a bit ...also I but my eye screws/bolts on my risers ..if you put them on your cross braces they my lift out of the risers going over rough terrain/deep snow .
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCcQR6gt/smitty.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCcQR6gt)
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Counter sinking is important if they hang below the ski will produce drag etc...just use a size or two up from your wood screw diameter to drill out the hole a bit ...also I but my eye screws/bolts on my risers ..if you put them on your cross braces they my lift out of the risers going over rough terrain/deep snow .
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCcQR6gt/smitty.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCcQR6gt)
Got it...thanks HD
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My son made this for me. Certainly helped in dragging out all the gear I do onto Chautauqua Lake, NY
(https://i.postimg.cc/mz0N2CJS/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mz0N2CJS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LnFBckz9/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnFBckz9)
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I used 1/2" plywood for the risers on my most recent Smitty Sled.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1twMgqTh/IMG-20181110-165354996.jpg)
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I just finished my first Smitty sled build last night, and it took some doing to get the screws countersunk. I started with just using a larger diameter bit, but I didn’t want to go too deep.
So I ended up buying a countersinking bit for my drill, but that maybe wasn’t working too well because it took forever to clear out enough space. And a couple of the screws STILL stuck up a bit. So I filed them down with my dremmel and it’s good to go, smooth as a baby’s butt.
Can’t wait to try it tomorrow on the ice!
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I just finished my first Smitty sled build last night, and it took some doing to get the screws countersunk. I started with just using a larger diameter bit, but I didn’t want to go too deep.
So I ended up buying a countersinking bit for my drill, but that maybe wasn’t working too well because it took forever to clear out enough space. And a couple of the screws STILL stuck up a bit. So I filed them down with my dremmel and it’s good to go, smooth as a baby’s butt.
Can’t wait to try it tomorrow on the ice!
Good to see you got the bindings off BABM...now the fun begins.
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Good to see you got the bindings off BABM...now the fun begins.
Yep, finally removed the thin plastic cover and could access the screws. Thanks again for the tips!
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Yep, finally removed the thin plastic cover and could access the screws. Thanks again for the tips!
:thumbsup: