IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: FishDoc_1 on Nov 17, 2020, 07:44 AM
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Right now I'm using the auger from my 6" StrikeMaster Laser hand auger paired with a Dewalt 20V brushless drill and a Clam plate. This combination works great for me. I would like to upgrade to a 8" auger. The StrikeMaster 8" hand auger is about $100.00 but I see other augers listed as nearly twice as much. Is there an advantage to the higher priced models? Should I just purchase the StrikeMaster 8"? Is the center point on other models helpful? Thanks.
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See if ebay has a eskimo silver tip with the curved blades in a 8 inch??
they sell for considerably less like 50 to 60 each??
then get that new clam gear box for your clam plate?
I bought my gear box form homedepot.com. for 70.44 plus tax came to 74.99? Any how I dont think you have any problem with it with that planetary gear box and turning the 8 inch auger..
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IMO that should be just fine.
The only advantage on the expensive composite ones is you save a couple pounds.
Not worth the expense IMO 200$ more for 2-3 lbs of weight.
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I still run my Lazer 6" with the Dewalt. Honestly you can't beat the set up for the price. I'm with ont_angler , not really worth the $$$ to save a few pounds. I'm not sure I like those chipper style baldes. If you live near a fleet farm, they have the 8" lazer right now for $79. They have them at my local store anyway.
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I should have also mentioned, it sure is nice to be able to hook up a handle to the ice auger if the drill ever went down! I always pack that handle in the sled, cheap insurance.
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Right now I'm using the auger from my 6" StrikeMaster Laser hand auger paired with a Dewalt 20V brushless drill and a Clam plate. This combination works great for me. I would like to upgrade to a 8" auger. The StrikeMaster 8" hand auger is about $100.00 but I see other augers listed as nearly twice as much. Is there an advantage to the higher priced models? Should I just purchase the StrikeMaster 8"? Is the center point on other models helpful? Thanks.
Is that the DCD996 Hammer drill or just a regular drill? Makes a big difference. The newer Dewalts are the 998 and 999. They are both beast.
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You can save a couple pounds by going a composite auger ...also a little less work for your drill set up . For the drill to turn an 8' auger drill unit it should be brushless ..725 in/lbs or better ..5 ah battery or better
As for blades ..1)Chipper style..slowest but cuts through dirty ice w/o worries can open old holes ie K-Drill send baldes out for free sharping ..2)Mora/Shaver style faster can open old holes can handle dirty ice be hand sharpened with some skill set ..Mora ..HT E-Drill Cabelas Eze Drill ...tons of hand augers use this style ..replacement blades EZPZ to find and inexpensive... 3)Lazer/Curved blades fastest ..no good on dirty ice some folks can open old holes with them ..blades need to be sent out for sharpening .
features that are nice ...1)center point ..no skipping ..2) center ring 3) auger extension as some hand auger adapters used on a traditional hand auger will be short 4) Clam Plate
What model DeWalt do you have ? and What size batteries ? A under torqued / under powered cordless set up will eventually fail and you will not be happy with performance.
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Lazer / curved blades with a center point and auger handle ..
https://www.franksgreatoutdoors.com/razr-scout-cordless-drill-auger-kit-razr-scout
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Thanks for your replies. I have a Dewalt DCD990 with a 5 mAh battery.
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Brother-in-law has the 8" $600 ION, Son uses a $250 8" K-Drill with M18 2804 drill. I use a modified $10 vintage Mora 8" hand auger & M18 2804 drill, (blade, added point and reverse ice chip propel blades that flings ice chips 18" away from hole.) and put the ION quick release on the drill. My set up & sons K-Drill same hole drill speed. I get 4 to 1 holes to the ION set up. My set-up about 2# over K-Drill & 4# under ION. I have a hand handle but no longer carry it. Not always necessary to spend lots of money.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zTsf56M/20200306-093646.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zTsf56M)
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I use strike master lazer augers only. Have them in 4, 6 and 8.
I use ridgid octane with 9amp battery.
No plate, no gear box, not needed, no center point, no problems. Can reopen holes. Only walks if ice forms on blades.
You may want to add a gear box is all. It will slow your cut times way down being its a reduction drive system.
Try it with out first.
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Thanks for your replies. I have a Dewalt DCD990 with a 5 mAh battery.
Rule of thumb ..100 UWO is equivalent to 100 in/lbs if I recall... 100in/lbs per one inch of drill diameter is the other rule ..the 991,996 are good UWO and should turn a 8in drill unit and the new 998 and 999 paired with a Flexvolt 6ah battery or better has technology in the drill to increase the power.. Over 1000 uwo ..called power advantage or power detect (depending on which model and where you purchase it...Home depot or Lowes )
Cant say that I have heard any members using the DCD990 ..never even knew it existed for that matter.
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papadarv - how did you add your centering point? thinking about doing the same to my auger.
Brother-in-law has the 8" $600 ION, Son uses a $250 8" K-Drill with M18 2804 drill. I use a modified $10 vintage Mora 8" hand auger & M18 2804 drill, (blade, added point and reverse ice chip propel blades that flings ice chips 18" away from hole.) and put the ION quick release on the drill. My set up & sons K-Drill same hole drill speed. I get 4 to 1 holes to the ION set up. My set-up about 2# over K-Drill & 4# under ION. I have a hand handle but no longer carry it. Not always necessary to spend lots of money.]
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They make a dcd991
https://products.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DCD991P2/
95nm output.
Equals 841 inch pound.
https://www.convertunits.com/from/newton+meter/to/inch+lbs
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Thanks for your replies. I have a Dewalt DCD990 with a 5 mAh battery.
That is the regular Drill Driver. Do you know what the UWO is on it? Never mind I found it is 650 UWO. That is boarder line and I wouldn't think it be enough for an 8" Auger.
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That is the regular Drill Driver. Do you know what the UWO is on it? Never mind I found it is 650 UWO. That is boarder line and I wouldn't think it be enough for an 8" Auger.
Would be hard to push a 8" K-Drill.. even a 6" K-Drill ..because of the chipper blades.. would be borderline in my opinion at best ..even a steel 8" would be a strain .. a composite auger with shaver or lazer blades would lighten the load and may be doable.
6" auger to 8" is cutting twice as much ice ...
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papadarv - how did you add your centering point? thinking about doing the
Yes. Welded a spade bit to 3/8 bolt. Drilled & taped auger blade mount plate. Used the K-Drill tip design not dame as pic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS/20181027-171203.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS)
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Yes. Welded a spade bit to 3/8 bolt. Drilled & taped auger blade mount plate. Used the K-Drill tip design not dame as pic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS/20181027-171203.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS)
For those who are welder impaired
https://www.rapala.com/strikemaster/auger-accessories/lazer-power-point-replacement-/LPP.html?cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories&taglist=StrikeMaster%7CAuger%20Accessories#AID=14006870&PID=9069228&SID=oc5A05L8E%2FcFrofF6SHThBgghFqtCr63zA9F5RIdvcQrYVQiJ5kU4de1xVgvSkLW&source=affiliate&pub=Bing%2BRebates%2Bby%2BMicrosoft&LINK=Big%2BJerk%2B320x50&CID=5250933&utm_campaign=9069228&utm_source=Bing%2BRebates%2Bby%2BMicrosoft&utm_medium=CJ&cjevent=ec918c1728fe11eb81d4033f0a240614&start=18&cgid=strikemaster-augerAccessories
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Right now I'm using the auger from my 6" StrikeMaster Laser hand auger paired with a Dewalt 20V brushless drill and a Clam plate. This combination works great for me. I would like to upgrade to a 8" auger. The StrikeMaster 8" hand auger is about $100.00 but I see other augers listed as nearly twice as much. Is there an advantage to the higher priced models? Should I just purchase the StrikeMaster 8"? Is the center point on other models helpful? Thanks.
If you like the 6in lazer hand áuger, what I would suggest is go on Facebook market place or craigslist. You can get very nice used one cheap. Like $25-$5 for one. I picked up two 6in mora hand augers for $15 and touched them up with spray paint sharpened the blades with my gatco ice áuger sharpener and they both look and work like new.
A center point isn't a must if you keep sharp blades and put a touch of down pressure on the áuger when you start. What the center point does is help keep the áuger from skating around before it grabs the ice when the blades dull a bit.
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Yes. Welded a spade bit to 3/8 bolt. Drilled & taped auger blade mount plate. Used the K-Drill tip design not dame as pic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS/20181027-171203.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zHmP0PS)
Do you have a video of how you drilled and tapped the mora? I've got a 6in and a 10in mora that I'd like to do it to. I actually have the center tip strikemaster sells which is threaded and wanted to put that in the center.
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Sorry, It must be the dcd991 model. Paired with the 6" StrikeMaster Laser hand auger it cuts through the ice like butter.
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Sorry, It must be the dcd991 model. Paired with the 6" StrikeMaster Laser hand auger it cuts through the ice like butter.
They did make the model you mentioned DCD990..but best to double check . Good luck with your search and purchase.
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Brother-in-law has the 8" $600 ION, Son uses a $250 8" K-Drill with M18 2804 drill. I use a modified $10 vintage Mora 8" hand auger & M18 2804 drill, (blade, added point and reverse ice chip propel blades that flings ice chips 18" away from hole.) and put the ION quick release on the drill. My set up & sons K-Drill same hole drill speed. I get 4 to 1 holes to the ION set up. My set-up about 2# over K-Drill & 4# under ION. I have a hand handle but no longer carry it. Not always necessary to spend lots of money.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zTsf56M/20200306-093646.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zTsf56M)
Took my 6in mora I refurbished to the local machine shop with the strikemaster center point tip. He is going to drill and tap it for $5 and put the center point on it. I'll see how it turns out and post some pics.
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Took my 6in mora I refurbished to the local machine shop with the strikemaster center point tip. He is going to drill and tap it for $5 and put the center point on it. I'll see how it turns out and post some pics.
Is the strikemaster point threaded clockwise or counter clockwise? wouldn't want it to loosen when drilling holes.
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DCD990 is the drill driver version of DCD995 hammer drill
DCD991 is the drill driver version of DCD996 hammer drill
They are the exact same minus the hammer feature which is unnecessary for drilling ice.
I think Milwaukee uses a different chuck on the drill/hammer drill and the drill may not come with the handle. But for DeWalt they are the same except for the hammer function.
How many posts until someone says the hammer drill has "better internals"?
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DCD990 is the drill driver version of DCD995 hammer drill UWO 650
DCD991 is the drill driver version of DCD996 hammer drill UWO 820
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IMO that should be just fine.
The only advantage on the expensive composite ones is you save a couple pounds.
Not worth the expense IMO 200$ more for 2-3 lbs of weight.
I posted weights in another thread yesterday, but found a full Mora setup is actually lighter than the plastic Lite Flite. The pistol bit was the lightest of the 3 and each was only about 12 oz difference in weight. I would imagine other flat blade hand augers are similar weight to the Mora and the Lazer hand should be close as well.
Anyone have measured weights on the K-Drill, HT, or Cabelas plastic augers?
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DCD990 is the drill driver version of DCD995 hammer drill UWO 650
DCD991 is the drill driver version of DCD996 hammer drill UWO 820
:thumbsup:
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Advantage of composite is no ice up on the flights ..or can be easily removed..but for those infrequent days a quick spin atop the ice will remove most ice/slush/water on either material . But the metal parts can still be a lil issue on either set up.
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don't shy away from the yellow ones from frabill they take laser curved blades
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Advantage of composite is no ice up on the flights ..or can be easily removed..but for those infrequent days a quick spin atop the ice will remove most ice/slush/water on either material . But the metal parts can still be a lil issue on either set up.
I coat my Strike Master with this each season. Little to no ice buildup.
https://www.amazon.com/Slip-Plate-Plate%C2%AE-Aerosol-12-oz/dp/B005ESITFQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?adgrpid=55526130425&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5Jwb8sHmq33Gew01wm_j-HZ2tFltSH4er0ndc6GR1Hhsrrv5BBvLH6hoCLygQAvD_BwE&hvadid=410022504842&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9017467&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12143376465829895385&hvtargid=kwd-299108729218&hydadcr=12191_11119354&keywords=graphite+spray&qid=1605896421&sr=8-12&tag=hydsma-20
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don't shy away from the yellow ones from frabill they take laser curved blades
Frabill makes an auger ?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/TLdc0Jjw/1926-CFAC-E04-C-4-A4-C-A664-96-E968-CBBA71.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLdc0Jjw)
Welded a nut to the 6in mora so I could put a Strikemaster point on it. I’ll see how it works once we get ice.
$5 to do it.....seems like a cheaper and lighter way to get a point on an auger vs selling and getting a pistol for $150
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Frabill makes an auger ?
yes mine is a 5 inch but I have seen the larger sizes before they are 2 piece
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yes mine is a 5 inch but I have seen the larger sizes before they are 2 piece
I did not know that ..very new to me .
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(https://i.postimg.cc/TLdc0Jjw/1926-CFAC-E04-C-4-A4-C-A664-96-E968-CBBA71.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLdc0Jjw)
Welded a nut to the 6in mora so I could put a Strikemaster point on it. I’ll see how it works once we get ice.
$5 to do it.....seems like a cheaper and lighter way to get a point on an auger vs selling and getting a pistol for $150
Great idea guys I have to try this my self..
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Do you have a video of how you drilled and tapped the mora? I've got a 6in and a 10in mora that I'd like to do it to. I actually have the center tip strikemaster sells which is threaded and wanted to put that in the center.
Don't have video but have pics. Center punch where you want point. Drill 1/4 pilot hole followed with 5/16 drill tap size. Tap hole with 3/8 hand tap. (Tap/drill set for $8 at Lows or Home Depot). I use washers for spacer to get proper tip height. I use Titanium or Cobalt hardened drill bits.
Welded nut also great idea. What size nut did you use.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVHJnhB7/20201122-095916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVHJnhB7)
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Sweet! Gonna do this today to my Mora. Actually not doing it today. Got on EBAY and ordered a 2-pack of laser points for $24. When I get them Ill see what size/ thread is needed for the mod.
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Sweet! Gonna do this today to my Mora. Actually not doing it today. Got on EBAY and ordered a 2-pack of laser points for $24. When I get them Ill see what size/ thread is needed for the mod.
When you put your blades back on, add 0.040 shim on the leading edge of the blade that increases the cut angle. This shim increases the blade angle nearly equivalent to the K-drill cut angle. I also ground groves in my blades to make them Lazer and or chipper blades.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QH9zWvcQ/20181005-094232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QH9zWvcQ)
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Don't have video but have pics. Center punch where you want point. Drill 1/4 pilot hole followed with 5/16 drill tap size. Tap hole with 3/8 hand tap. (Tap/drill set for $8 at Lows or Home Depot). I use washers for spacer to get proper tip height. I use Titanium or Cobalt hardened drill bits.
Welded nut also great idea. What size nut did you use.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QVHJnhB7/20201122-095916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QVHJnhB7)
Not sure took it to the machine shop in town....I’m thinking the old guy either drilled & tapped it crooked or drilled original hole to large....then did the nut fix. He only was charging $5 to do it.....figured I couldn’t buy the tap set to do it for $5.
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Never owned anything but a Milwaukee 2804 brushless on 8” 7(7 5/8) K drill. Watched plenty of others with the gas setups and decided when I got into ice fishing they weren’t for me. Half the time I’m pulling my equipment out and that K drill setup is fast, light and easy without stink. Drill also used to sink hub anchors and drill holes inside the setup hub without carbon monoxide headaches.
Going on 3rd year and have not wanted to switch to anything else.
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When you put your blades back on, add 0.040 shim on the leading edge of the blade that increases the cut angle. This shim increases the blade angle nearly equivalent to the K-drill cut angle. I also ground groves in my blades to make them Lazer and or chipper blades.
I like the way it cuts as is.
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When you put your blades back on, add 0.040 shim on the leading edge of the blade that increases the cut angle. This shim increases the blade angle nearly equivalent to the K-drill cut angle. I also ground groves in my blades to make them Lazer and or chipper blades.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QH9zWvcQ/20181005-094232.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QH9zWvcQ)
When it's time for new blades just get the Eskimo gas áuger blades. They have the chipper shaver style hybrid and they are a bit more aggressive on the cut angle so you won't need to shim it.
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When it's time for new blades just get the Eskimo gas áuger blades. They have the chipper shaver style hybrid and they are a bit more aggressive on the cut angle so you won't need to shim it.
DO the Quantum Eskimo Blades fit the Mora Augers?
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DO the Quantum Eskimo Blades fit the Mora Augers?
I'm not 100% sure....but looking at the store the holes looked very close.....a guy could try and if they don't return them to the store. Personally.....I wouldn't want the chipper style on a mora. The blades are easy to sharpen & if you have a guid point should be able to reopen holes fine.
I know the Eskimo hand áuger and strike master hand áuger blades all will fit/can be swapped back and forth.
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Yes the Mora blades are easy to sharpen myself.
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I'm not 100% sure....but looking at the store the holes looked very close.....a guy could try and if they don't return them to the store. Personally.....I wouldn't want the chipper style on a mora. The blades are easy to sharpen & if you have a guid point should be able to reopen holes fine.
I know the Eskimo hand áuger and strike master hand áuger blades all will fit/can be swapped back and forth.
I had the Eskimo Z51 and I always sharpened my own blades. Quantum Blades. I had the 6" Silvertip hand auger and one of the blades broke. Probably why they don't sell them any more. But when I contacted them they sent me the Turbo Blades and they fit but not real good. I called them again and they finally sent me the correct ones. The Tubo Blades fit on the Stikemasters.
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Sold the one I just had done...so did my other myself.
If you get the center point tips from strikemaster, the threads on it are 10mm - 1.5. I bought a tap for $6 to do it. I had to put a washer between the áuger and point to get it to tighten where I wanted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/47kZmq1q/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47kZmq1q)
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Sold the one I just had done...so did my other myself.
If you get the center point tips from strikemaster, the threads on it are 10mm - 1.5. I bought a tap for $6 to do it. I had to put a washer between the áuger and point to get it to tighten where I wanted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/47kZmq1q/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47kZmq1q)
Just did this to my 6" Mora. got the point for $12 and spent $8.15 for the tap. Added the washer to get the point "lined up". Prolly try it friday.
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Just did this to my 6" Mora. got the point for $12 and spent $8.15 for the tap. Added the washer to get the point "lined up". Prolly try it friday.
What size was the tap ? Others may want to do this modification .
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What size was the tap ? Others may want to do this modification .
10mm 1.5
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10mm 1.5
Yessir. 10mm x 1.5mm. Lowes sells a tap/drill combo for $12.
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Does this mod help it drill better or just make it easier to start ?
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Ken..............