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crap, looks like I need to save some coin. Maybe next year. Sucks cause I already have 3 drills.
Sell 2 of em on craigslist and put that money with your $100 together and maybe you're in the ballpark?Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid are the big oneshttps://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-2-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-2-4-0Ah-Batteries-Charger-R9205/206127587That's only 200 bucks and ought to be good for a 6 or 7 inch auger
How do you cut a 13 in hole?
I bought a Milwaukee Fuel 18v hammer/drill with (3) 5ah batteries, charger, side handle and hard case, just before Christmas for $235. That was the cheapest I could find this set-up. I have used it four times and I have to say, I couldn't be happier. I have it paired with a 6in. Lazer auger. This thing cuts like butter and feels like carrying a feather compared to my Jiffy Pro4, for which I have both a 4" and 10" augers. The only way my Jiffy will see ice again is when I decide to go out onto Saginaw Bay for walleyes. And, then the only reason will be in order to cut a 10" hole. I could probably cut a 10" with my Milwaukee, it has 1250 in. torque, but I don't have an auger that will work, since Jiffy's rotate counterclockwise.
Wondering if there is a list or wiki that shows known drills that'll work as an auger attachment? For a 6" auger. Something under $100 if possible. Thanks
The battery with that drill, 1.5ah, is about useless. You should try and have at least 5.0ah. That's where the cost comes in. A better battery will cost you $100.
That’s a good point. They do have a 3.0 and a 4.0 ah battery, $45 and $60 respectively. That puts him over the $100 budget, but still at a much lower cost that the M18 $200 deal. Depending on how many holes he is drilling in a day, tha may be enough power and longevity. I have all M12 and M18 tools, so I keep it in the family, but for a cheaper occasional use drill I would get the Bauer in a heartbeat. As mentioned, eBay is also a great resource for deals.
I don’t have one, but these drills from Harbor Freight get great reviews and high recommendations. $70. https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-hypermax-lithium-12-in-drilldriver-kit-63531.html?_br_psugg_q=20+volt+cordless+drill
Drills by themselves are not terribly expensive....but the batteries are. What kinds of drills do you already have? If you already have cordless drills that means you have batteries. So if you have batteries for a brand or brands, look at those brands to see if they have a hammer drill within the specifications range to turn a basic 6” shaver bit.
From the reading I have done, and using my drill w/o much luck, its said the drill has to be brush-less? Not sure if this model is. Doesn't say.
DV18DL, 18V, Lithium-ion, Hammer, Powerful & Lightweight, 570 INLBS Of Torque & Weighs Only 4.6 LBS, 4Stage Speed Selection, Switch Into High/Low Gear On Top & Then Select Fast/Slow Mode With A Thumb Actuated Switch, 3.0AH Lithium-ion Battery,
Thats how I started my research. Ryobi and Hitachi are the drills I currently have. I wasn't able to find any Ryobi's that have any sort of really torque, from the batteries I have. I'll have to look for a Hitachi one.edit**Hitachi has changed their battery style so thats not gonna work.
I'm not sure what I was looking at. I think I was looking at drivers. Do you run it in drill mode or hammer mode, or screwdriver?I'm going to try my drill again. Maybe because the drill was in my truck, it killed the battery. Or maybe because it was or wasnt in hammer mode. All the lettering on the drill is rubbed off so it was set to hammer mode. I'll update..
Yes it would turn it but, working in reverse would allow the chuck to loosen if it caught on the ice very hard. I think it could be an issue. Reverse mode on a drill isn't really made for cutting or drilling a hole. It is used to clean the hole or get a hung up bit free. Thus, I think putting any kind of extended force on the chuck wouldn't be good.