Drill reccomendations

[jnewcs]

Wondering if there is a list or wiki that shows known drills that'll work as an auger attachment? For a 6" auger. Something under $100 if possible. Thanks

[GBguy]

Here's a handy list-finding tool. Just open it up and type in drill and you'll have more than enough reading to do.

https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?action=search

Not sure you'll find a new drill with decent battery and charger for less than $100 though. Unless you have cordless tools already and just need to add the bare tool.

Dont forget you'll also need to purchase an adapter depending on which auger you choose.

For a 6", you dont need the big 1200-1300 in/lbs drills, but may want the extra juice if you plan to upgrade. You need something with 700+ in/lbs of torque, preferably brushless with a 1/2" chuck.

[jnewcs]

Thanks. I have the adapter. But my drill wasn't up to the task. It drilled one 13" hole but had a really hard time. Not enough torque and I don't think its brush-less.

I tried using the search, but was hopping there was a list someone may have compiled.

I'll do some reading.

[SLAYERFISH]

$100 don't buy much these days.

[jnewcs]

You aint kidding killer

[Otto]

I don’t have one, but these drills from Harbor Freight get great reviews and high recommendations.  $70. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-hypermax-lithium-12-in-drilldriver-kit-63531.html?_br_psugg_q=20+volt+cordless+drill

[struckus]

I have the Milwaukee M18 Fuel with 2 5ah batteries..very happy with it..doesn't stop cutting with an 8"

[MC_angler]

crap, looks like I need to save some coin. Maybe next year. Sucks cause I already have 3 drills.

Sell 2 of em on craigslist and put that money with your $100 together and maybe you're in the ballpark?

Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid are the big ones

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-2-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-2-4-0Ah-Batteries-Charger-R9205/206127587

That's only 200 bucks and ought to be good for a 6 or 7 inch auger

[struckus]

Sell 2 of em on craigslist and put that money with your $100 together and maybe you're in the ballpark?

Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Ridgid are the big ones

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Brushless-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-2-Tool-Combo-Kit-with-2-4-0Ah-Batteries-Charger-R9205/206127587

That's only 200 bucks and ought to be good for a 6 or 7 inch auger

I had that one and it did not like an 8" lol..no clue with a 6 or 7 but 8 is too big..she cut out like crazy..it felt like it had the power but kept cutting out..

[RyanW]

eBay is a great place for stuff like this. A 5ah battery will run about 50 bucks. You can get the m18/m12 charger for about 25 bucks and a bare tool for around 100. Although I doubt ebay was involved, the kit Snitch got with the 3 batteries for $235 was a killer deal for the batteries alone. One 5ah battery is definitely enough to get you started though. Especially with a 6 inch auger.

[hawg]

How do you cut a 13 in hole?

[jnewcs]

How do you cut a 13 in hole?

13" of ice

[3300]

I bought a Milwaukee Fuel 18v hammer/drill with (3) 5ah batteries, charger, side handle and hard case, just before Christmas for $235.  That was the cheapest I could find this set-up.  I have used it four times and I have to say, I couldn't be happier.  I have it paired with a 6in. Lazer auger.  This thing cuts like butter and feels like carrying a feather compared to my Jiffy Pro4, for which I have both a 4" and 10" augers.  The only way my Jiffy will see ice again is when I decide to go out onto Saginaw Bay for walleyes.  And, then the only reason will be in order to cut a 10" hole.  I could probably cut a 10" with my Milwaukee, it has 1250 in. torque, but I don't have an auger that will work, since Jiffy's rotate counterclockwise.

your 1200 inch pound drill has reverse so it can turn your jiffy.

[3300]

Wondering if there is a list or wiki that shows known drills that'll work as an auger attachment? For a 6" auger. Something under $100 if possible. Thanks

i used to use a 500 inch pound drill on the 6" lazer no problems.

[Otto]

The battery with that drill, 1.5ah, is about useless.  You should try and have at least 5.0ah.  That's where the cost comes in.  A better battery will cost you $100.

That’s a good point.  They do have a 3.0 and a 4.0 ah battery, $45 and $60 respectively.  That puts him over the $100 budget, but still at a much lower cost that the M18 $200 deal.  Depending on how many holes he is drilling in a day, tha may be enough power and longevity.   I have all M12 and M18 tools, so I keep it in the family, but for a cheaper occasional use drill I would get the Bauer in a heartbeat.

As mentioned, eBay is also a great resource for deals. 

[GBguy]

Though not a fair comparison to the lighter duty drills, I was able to drill 27 holes through 17" of ice with a 6" strikemaster lazer auger (not the lite Flite, the black hand auger bit) with my Ridgid Octane with only a 3 ah battery.

But the Ridgid Octane puts out 1300 in/lbs of torque, and cost me $260 for the drill, 3 ah battery, 9 ah battery, and 2 chargers.

Definitely stick with an auger with shaver blades over chipper blades like the K-drill. It will be easier on the drill.

[jnewcs]

That’s a good point.  They do have a 3.0 and a 4.0 ah battery, $45 and $60 respectively.  That puts him over the $100 budget, but still at a much lower cost that the M18 $200 deal.  Depending on how many holes he is drilling in a day, tha may be enough power and longevity.   I have all M12 and M18 tools, so I keep it in the family, but for a cheaper occasional use drill I would get the Bauer in a heartbeat.

As mentioned, eBay is also a great resource for deals.

Thanks for the added info. I'll do some looking.

Can't see myself drilling more then 10 holes at most, per trip

[jnewcs]

I don’t have one, but these drills from Harbor Freight get great reviews and high recommendations.  $70. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-hypermax-lithium-12-in-drilldriver-kit-63531.html?_br_psugg_q=20+volt+cordless+drill

From the reading I have done, and using my drill w/o much luck, its said the drill has to be brush-less? Not sure if this model is. Doesn't say.

[32footsteps]

Drills by themselves are not terribly expensive....but the batteries are.

What kinds of drills do you already have? If you already have cordless drills that means you have batteries. So if you have batteries for a brand or brands, look at those brands to see if they have a hammer drill within the specifications range to turn a basic 6” shaver bit.

[jnewcs]

Drills by themselves are not terribly expensive....but the batteries are.

What kinds of drills do you already have? If you already have cordless drills that means you have batteries. So if you have batteries for a brand or brands, look at those brands to see if they have a hammer drill within the specifications range to turn a basic 6” shaver bit.

Thats how I started my research. Ryobi and Hitachi are the drills I currently have. I wasn't able to find any Ryobi's that have any sort of really torque, from the batteries I have.
I'll have to look for a Hitachi one.
edit**Hitachi has changed their battery style so thats not gonna work.

[3300]

From the reading I have done, and using my drill w/o much luck, its said the drill has to be brush-less? Not sure if this model is. Doesn't say.

 that is not true at all. my 500 inch pound drill is a brushed motor as is my 780 inch pound drill. they both turn the lazer 6 inch with no problems ever and i used 4amp batteries. was cutting so much ice i needed an extension in the past. the brushed motor 780 inch pound drill has more  torque than their brushless motor of that generation which is gen5x. brushes do wear down, but i have never never needed them replaced. so given a choice brushless should last longer.
they are both ridgid brand because they are lifetime warranted including batteries and batteries do wear out is in part why i chose that brand. i left dewalt years ago when i had to buy new batteries every year with little use on them. they were ni-cad back then and 100$ a pop. got old fast.

last i knew hf electric tools only have 90 day warranty. i avoid hf power tools.

[jnewcs]

My drill is rated 570 with a 3aH battery. But like I said, it cut a hole. But just barley. Maybe I didn't have it on the right speed.

Code: [Select]

DV18DL, 18V, Lithium-ion, Hammer, Powerful & Lightweight, 570 INLBS Of Torque & Weighs Only 4.6 LBS, 4
Stage Speed Selection, Switch Into High/Low Gear On Top & Then Select Fast/Slow Mode With A Thumb Actuated Switch, 3.0AH Lithium-ion Battery,

[32footsteps]

Thats how I started my research. Ryobi and Hitachi are the drills I currently have. I wasn't able to find any Ryobi's that have any sort of really torque, from the batteries I have.
I'll have to look for a Hitachi one.
edit**Hitachi has changed their battery style so thats not gonna work.

I’ve been using the Ryobi brushless hammer drill for a few years now. It’ll handle an 8 inch mora without any issues.  I primarily use it on a 6 inch shaver bit and can get through over 700 inches of ice on one 4ah battery. That drill has 750 pounds of torque so it’s enough. Check amazon or direct tools outlet for a stand alone drill like that. At Direct tools you can usually snag them for $75 with a smaller battery and charger.

[jnewcs]

I'm not sure what I was looking at. I think I was looking at drivers. Do you run it in drill mode or hammer mode, or screwdriver?

I'm going to try my drill again. Maybe because the drill was in my truck, it killed the battery. Or maybe because it was or wasnt in hammer mode. All the lettering on the drill is rubbed off so it was set to hammer mode.

I'll update..

[hardwater diehard]

I'm not sure what I was looking at. I think I was looking at drivers. Do you run it in drill mode or hammer mode, or screwdriver?

I'm going to try my drill again. Maybe because the drill was in my truck, it killed the battery. Or maybe because it was or wasnt in hammer mode. All the lettering on the drill is rubbed off so it was set to hammer mode.

I'll update..

Drill mode ..speed one/lowest speed .

[Iceassin]

Here are a few more things to consider:

* Avoid the cheapo drills...B/D, Porter Cable, Craftsman, etc. They're picture hangers. $100+ will get you a decent drill.
* 100# of torque per inch of auger is a good baseline.
* Use DRILL mode...not hammer or screw. Also, many drills have a power option. 2 = more speed, 1 = more torque. Use #1.
* Brushless is better but not necessary. Unless you are planning to drill 20+ holes through a foot of ice, one right after the other, you'll be fine. Pull shavings out periodically if going through thick ice. Overheating is the big thing.
*4ah batteries at minimum. 2ah will work but not for long.
* If using a laser type auger, they can and will grab just before going through. Be careful. You'll get used to it.

I use a Bosch 18v, 600in.lb. with 4ah. batteries. It turns my 4" and 6" lasers all day long with no issues...and it's a brushed motor. This is my 2nd season with it.

Good luck with your decision.

[jethro]

Brushless will greatly extend the life cycle of your drill but it certainly doesn't have to be brushless to turn an ice auger. And I think some brushed drills can have the brushes replaced. Drilling ice is a pretty demanding task which can generate a lot of heat in a brushed drill, that is why people suggest brushless if it can be in your budget.

[3300]

your 570 inch pound drill should be fine on a 6 inch bit with sharp blades in speed one and dill mode. never push down, if you have to push down to cut you have either dull  blades or a bent cutting head or both. never bang your auger onto the ice. some won't let others use their auger thinking it will hurt it. i allow others to experience it so they can get into it too. some augers cut so fast that you have to lift some while breaking thru to make it cut slower. strikemaster lazers are known to be like that. not always, but it happens. if it happens it can pull you down to the ice until you let go of the trigger. you'll learn what is needed as you go. just listen to the motor on your drill and know about when your to break thru on your cut.

Yes it would turn it but, working in reverse would allow the chuck to loosen if it caught on the ice very hard.  I think it could be an issue.   Reverse mode on a drill isn't really made for cutting or drilling a hole.  It is used to clean the hole or get a hung up bit free.  Thus, I think putting any kind of extended force on the chuck wouldn't be good.

your drill is brand new and under warranty and you have some thing to catch your bit, so you should be good to go. not sure what your worried about except your just getting into drill/auger cutting. we've all been there.

it's not an issue with ridgid tools. i use both directions often. if it ever were to have an issue, it would be resolved for free, so never any worries like that for myself. i buy my tools to use them.

[JH57]

Yes it would turn it but, working in reverse would allow the chuck to loosen if it caught on the ice very hard.  I think it could be an issue.   Reverse mode on a drill isn't really made for cutting or drilling a hole.  It is used to clean the hole or get a hung up bit free.  Thus, I think putting any kind of extended force on the chuck wouldn't be good.

There is a reverse threaded screw through the chuck into the end of the shaft.  To remove a chuck or loosen the chuck from the drill you first have to unscrew and remove that screw, then the chuck can be unscrewed from the shaft.  Tthere are several youtube videos on how to swap out a chuck.

There should be no issues running in reverse.  You'd have to shear the head of that retainer screw off, then the only thing that could happen is the chuck would unscrew itself.  Other than the screw you won't break anything.  If you have a retainer device on your setup you won't lose anything through the ice.

On the Milwaukee chuck, hand tighten it as tight as you reasonably can, then turn it in the direction you would to loosen it until it clicks once, the chuck is locked and won't loosen.  Seems that when you first install the auger bit it's a good idea to re-tighten it and then lock it again after starting the first hole.  If the auger wasn't aligned in the chuck perfectly to start with it will move and seem to have loosened.   You can initially tighten the chuck by holding it and running the drill until it tightens up - but then fully tighten it and lock it by hand.

[hardwater diehard]