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I have only ran non ethanol fuel through this and if my carb is getting gunked up after not even 2 tanks of non ethanol mix how tedious is this engine and carb? There is no cleaner fuel I can get and my carb should not be gunked up. It was brand new. The only other option I have it to buy the sealed containers of VP small engine fuels. And like bee said there is no high and low adjustment screws only idle. I can not for the life of me find any at least. Gonna try the Champion EZ start plug with 90:1 mix and see if anything changes. If not I may need to bring to small engine shop and see what they recommend or talk to Tanaka again. I love the auger but I'm not gonna settle for 20 plus pulls to start it when its below zero because we see a lot of that weather up here in dead of winter.
well that sux if you have problems with the jet settings huh
I have only ran non ethanol fuel through this and if my carb is getting gunked up after not even 2 tanks of non ethanol mix how tedious is this engine and carb? There is no cleaner fuel I can get and my carb should not be gunked up. It was brand new. The only other option I have it to buy the sealed containers of VP small engine fuels. And like bee said there is no high and low adjustment screws only idle. I can not for the life of me find any at least. Gonna try the Champion EZ start plug with 90:1 mix and see if anything changes. If not I may need to bring to small engine shop and see what they recommend or talk to Tanaka again. I love the auger but I'm not gonna settle for 20 plus pulls to start it when its below zero because we see a lot of that weather up here in dead of winter. [/quoteI agree with you that this is not a fuel or carb issue. If anything I think it is out of adjustment. Read the manual and adjust the idler screw accordingly and do what i had suggested previously.
i work on all sorts of things, engines since 1975.heres what i would do if it were mine. -first dump out all of the fuel into some thing clear like glass and check it a few hours later for water. this is the number one problem with small engines. they have smaller gas tanks and so are easier to contaminate with it. it's probably your problem too.-second, find all of the adjustment screws and a piece of paper. turn each one in until it stops, (make sure you do not use high force when doing it or you can ruin the needle by making an impression ring into the metal point of the needle). use the 12 o'clock position to count at when it passes 12 o'clock and count how many times it took to run it to bottom. example, if it was pointing at 9 o'clock/3 o'clock then count it as 9 o'clock and watch for it to be straight up and count the straight up as 12 o'clock. say it passed 12 o'clock two times. so that means the needle was two and one quarter turns when you started. so on paper you write 2 and one quarter turns for the jet you just adjusted. now return it to where you found it-do this to each screw/needle you find. i count in half turns when counting and make stops at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock so i don't get confuse and say it out loud.most manufactures mark the engine cover so the mechanic knows which screw/needle does what. so you might find markings like (L) for low speed fuel/air mixture and (F or H) for fast/high speed fuel/air mixture.what you are wanting to do is increase the fuel in the (L) as that is the fuel/air mixture screw for low or no throttle and that is the one you need to give more fuel thru.-so turn it out 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn area and try another couple pulls. you will find what it wants. just don't let it get warm at all while messing with it. if it does, then stop and wait until lits ice cold again.the reason you bottom out and return each screw and write it down is for when you forget what the factory had on them, so you can reset it all.you can't mess up if you do what i said, so do not be afraid at all.oh, after doing all of this check that glass bowl of fuel and look into the bottom of it for a weird looking liquid. that is water and is heavier than gas so its on the bottom. if you see any. get rid of all of your gas and allow the gas tank you fill at the pumps to air out or buy a new one. thats how most get water in their tanks. i use sea foam on every thing even 2 cycle. it is meant for it. get some and use it to keep water out and engine cleaner. put it in your big gas cans. they condensate too much to not get water in them.those who said the primer does not put gas into the engine are correct. it only gets gas to the carb. so you are not wasting pull starts trying to do the same thing with vacume pulling gas to the carb.engines are funny and they want it their way or the hard way. try different choke settings and as one member said, try giving it partial throttle to get even more fuel/air coming into it in the first place. i like stihl engines (i have 3) in part because they have a lever you squeeze and it locks in a preset throttle position so you don't have to as you work on holding and pulling on the unit.thats too bad the company you choose did not do that for you.let us know how you do, it's easier than it sounds, for real-one more thing. if you have an air compressor and are handy enough to get the fuel filter out of the gas tank (coat hanger with a hook will pull it out grabbing the gas line) and blow air thru the filter to remove the water from it. if not, replace it or try to blow thru it with your mouth and see if it is full of water. worst case is warm it up and make certain it is dried out completely and blow into it to make it air passes thru it easily
With EPA's new standard they have small main jet. You need to get part number for jet 2 sizes bigger. I called Tanaka and this is what they told me. Said bring it to one of their service guys in my area. I hold throttle quarter way and it starts easier full choke. I think main jet replacement would give better performance at wot.not that mine is lacking power.love the Tanaka.
Hmm I'd say your best bet is to just cut your losses and sell the auger TO ME since I'm not too far away from you in Fargo here.All joking aside, it's a really simple fix for you. START IT AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. Seriously, it's that simple. I went through the same headache as you until I figured that out.Prime it until you see gas in the line from the tank to the carb, I rarely use the primer. Full choke, right hand holding the throttle wide open, left hand on the pull rope and give it short quick pulls. It will start in less than 5 pulls, let go of the throttle as soon as it fires and leave choke on full for a bit, then move to half choke for a bit, then no choke, then drill. The time to leave the choke on full and half all depends on the temp and how long you are letting it warm up for. You'll get a feel for it by the sound of the engine as it's warming up.This or you can just adjust the throttle screw Please try this and report back on how it works.
This or you can just adjust the throttle screw
I assume you mean turn the idle up? Does your auger spin (even just a tiny amount) when idling either while warming up or between holes? Mine sure did when I tried that and didn't fix the problem either.I don't understand what's so difficult about holding a throttle while pull starting a 27cc motor.
Ok guys so here is the scoop. Picked up a Champion EZ start plug but only started it once with it so far. I mixed up some 90 or 100:1 premium NON-ETHANOL gas with Amsoil Saber and seafoam. Ran this yesterday and today. Yesterday temps were around -15 and I could get it in about 5 pulls or less. Today was around 10-30 degrees and same thing about 5 pulls or less. Like some of you suggested I now hold the throttle wide open while starting. Choke full on and wide open 5 pulls or less every time so far. After fire choke to half and then off according to temperature. Runs great now and seems to be starting better and better as I use it more. Still yet only about 2 or so tanks of fuel through it. I filled it up almost full yesterday and fished all day yesterday (20-40 holes) and all day today (40-60 holes) and there is still fuel left! Doesn't burn fuel very fast!
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Topic: Nils Master Cold Start (Read 5668 times)
