IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: Fisherman-Andy on Jan 01, 2017, 06:46 PM
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I like to know if any Kdrill owners have issues during drilling? Ive had mix results and have owned both the 6" and 8".
The 6" kdrill brand new out of box will not cut at all without some minimal down pressure so i returned it. I got only like 15 holes in 24" ice and it drained the battery due to poor slow cutting. I can double the holes cut easy with my lazer 6".
I did had an 8" kdrill which cut flawlessly without any slight down pressure (just the weight of the drill & clam plate alone on top), however I sold it cause I needed some extra cash during the summer. Then I purchased another new 8" kdrill this winter and notice straight out of box that I does not cut at all unless I apply some slight or minimal down pressure. Now ive heard both some say you need pressure and some don't? Well I have had two very different results now and am scratching my head thinking something is defective?
Kdrill's own current manual does say you need to apply slight pressure and it will do the rest. If I dont apply any pressure at all it just spins and wont grab ice. However applying pressure works the drill harder and I feel you get less holes cut with it as it consumes more power to turn? I also feel it seems to cut slower then my previous 8" kdrill which didnt have this issue. I've also seen that the kdrill cutting head has had minimal design change from the center point, not sure if this is affecting it. I am not against applying slight down pressure. I just wont to know if anyone else has had mix or different results?
So does your kdrill cut with out any down pressure or do you need to apply some slight pressure for it to cut?
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i believe " SLIGHT" downward pressure should not be a problem......i should be so lucky....
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You had something that cost $250 that you were happy with and then you sold it to get $200 and then later bought another of the exact same thing?
Whenever I am going to do something I think, would an idiot do that? And if they would, I do not do that thing. D. Schrute
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he can raise his cholesterol at will. and why would you want to raise your cholesterol at will so you can lower it. i love that guy he made that show.
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You had something that cost $250 that you were happy with and then you sold it to get $200 and then later bought another of the exact same thing?
Whenever I am going to do something I think, would an idiot do that? And if they would, I do not do that thing. D. Schrute
Let me answer that question for you. Deals can be had or made. I purchased my original 8" Kdrill for $199, which i sold during the off season for $190. My 6" for only $179. My new 8" kdrill this winter for only $209. Guess I am an idiot? LOL... :(
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The 6" kdrill will not cut at all without some minimal down pressure so i returned it. I got only like 15 holes in 24" ice and it drained the battery due to poor slow cutting. I can double the holes cut easy with my
X2. Returned my K Drill after trying it. Can get many more holes with my laser bit.
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You had something that cost $250 that you were happy with and then you sold it to get $200 and then later bought another of the exact same thing?
I am glad it did not cost Andy much to sell his drill, but for someone to criticize him for selling it when he needed some cash (for what ever reason)... It must be nice to never have been in a position that you needed to sell something, especially something that is important to you, because you needed some cash... Maybe next time, he should ask you for some cash to hold him over, but I bet he would never do that...
Good luck with the auger!
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i've had both 6 and 8 " never had a problem with either both drilled without down pressure other than the weight of the drill/ plate , but the 6" was way easier on batteries ( if i had to do it over i would have stuck with the 6" )
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You had something that cost $250 that you were happy with and then you sold it to get $200 and then later bought another of the exact same thing?
Whenever I am going to do something I think, would an idiot do that? And if they would, I do not do that thing. D. Schrute
Best quote ever!
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X3 I also returned a 6" Kdrill after trying it. I can get about twice as many holes with my Nils 6" on one battery and three times faster.
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3rd year for my K-Drill 6, drill some figure 8 holes now and then. No issues, well satisfied.
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I've been using my 6" K-drill every day for the last 4 weeks. No problems at all.
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You didn't say what drill you were using? I have been punching lots of holes with my 8" k drill and m18 fuel no problem and no clam plate. I have yet to run out a battery, but it is my first year with it and we only have 9" of ice so far. Yes I do need slight down pressure but not much. So far in my opinion it is one of the best things for ice fishing I have ever bought. It drills the ice about 1 inch per second and only weighs 10 Lbs. So far everyone who has seen me use it or tried it themselves is amazed.
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X2
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I have a 8" on a clam plate with a Milwaukee and it's amazing. It takes a little bit of downward pressure while it's spinning on the center blade before the chipper blades start to bite. Once they dig in, it just rips straight though. I had a 6" nils on the Milwaukee last year and I can't say the it was noticeably faster than my K-drill. If yours isn't cutting right, I'd contact vexilar right away. I'm sure they'll make it right.
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I have a 8" on a clam plate with a Milwaukee and it's amazing. It takes a little bit of downward pressure while it's spinning on the center blade before the chipper blades start to bite. Once they dig in, it just rips straight though. I had a 6" nils on the Milwaukee last year and I can't say the it was noticeably faster than my K-drill. If yours isn't cutting right, I'd contact vexilar right away. I'm sure they'll make it right.
My brand new 8" kdrill definitely cuts, but not without applying constant slight/minimal down pressure. If i let off and allow just the weight of the drill/clam plate alone it will just spin and not grab ice even if I already cut half way through.
From the reviews on here some are saying they dont need to apply any slight pressure while others are saying you do. And my previous Kdrill I know it cut without any slight down pressure only from the weight of the drill and clam plate. That's why I made this post.
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Copy that, give me 10 minutes, I'll go run downstairs to punch a hole.
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If you think that little bit of down pressure is a issue on a setup that only weighs 10 Lbs. You should lug around my old jiffy mod. 30 at 36 Lbs. And see which one you are happier with.
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If you think that little bit of down pressure is a issue on a setup that only weighs 10 Lbs. You should lug around my old jiffy mod. 30 at 36 Lbs. And see which one you are happier with.
Post like this cracks me up. Nothing to do what so ever with what has been asked per the original post.
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Ok, drilled the hole. Using the Milwaukee fuel with a 6" it took about 25lbs of down pressure to bite and complete the hole. 20" in 20 seconds. No pressure it just spins.
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It took me maybe 2 holes to figure out it takes slight down pressure when I first used the 8" k drill. It is still the easiest power auger setup that I have ever used. I have never used a ice auger that didn't take some slight down pressure. Is that really a issue for you?
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It took me maybe 2 holes to figure out it takes slight down pressure when I first used the 8" k drill. It is still the easiest power auger setup that I have ever used. I have never used a ice auger that didn't take some slight down pressure. Is that really a issue for you?
Thanks for the feedback. :) Its not a matter of serious issue, more of reasoning why my experiences are different and im seeing different results from other kdrill users. I just want to know if this is how a kdrill should be performing correctly or is there something wrong or a defect on why its performing that way?
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The only way I can see is to compare it on the ice with someone else who has the same size k drill. It is possible you have a bad one or bad blades? My old jiffy mod 30 does not require much if any down pressure because it is so heavy to begin with it has built in down pressure.
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I guess it’s possible that the blade angle is slightly different or maybe even a little sharper. After doing a lot of research and observation, I’m fully convinced that a shaver type blade is a much faster setup and may give you more holes per battery, but there are a few instances in which shaver blades fall short such as dirty/sandy ice, overlapping holes for bigger fish, reopening old holes, and I also think they tend to put more overall torque on the drill, this is why I chose the KDrill. I know I sacrificed some speed but I think it will be better in the long run. Plus if the blade dulls I’m not completely out of commission.
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I own the 8" k drill with M18 Fuel drill. Cut holes for the first time all last weekend with it through about 14" of ice. The only pressure I put on the drill was just the pressure of my hands holing onto the drill. I could get about 25-30 holes per 5.0 ah battery. We did a drill off between the new Ion X and my 8" k drill and the k drill smoked the Ion X handily. The k drill made drilling easy and not a heavy pain in the a$$. I would recommend buying one to anybody.
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From doing my research and watching videos, to me it appears that there might have been a couple revisions or designs. The flighting looks different as well as the cover and color of foam collar, but not sure about the blades. Maybe Andy had 2 different versions?? Check out these 2 pages, they appear to be a bit different. http://kdrillauger.com/ http://icefishingtoday.com/ice-fishing-products/k-drill-electric-ice-auger-system/
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Couple things, but let's start with the fact that you're doing it wrong and *you know* you're doing it wrong...
No version of the K-drill needs a Clam Plate, so right there it tells me that you aren't using the correct drill - they specify the model number of the drill for the reason that it's essentially necessary to get the "right" experience.
The K-drill has a spike on it, it can't *not* grab into the ice...so I have no clue what you're doing.
For K-drill owners who bought the auger and got the correct drill, little to no downward pressure is necessary - it certainly isn't for my k-drill auger with attached Milwaukee Fuel M18 1/2".
So there's the answer to your question - you're doing it wrong.
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http://kdrillauger.com/
This is the current version, the other site has the promo video which was produced with a prototype, I'd assume. I ordered from the second site and got the version from the first, so it's all good.
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I think what Andy is saying is that its not pulling down by itself like a lot of augers will. He has to keep pressure on it which will eventually kill the battery faster. A lot of guys are running the KDrill on a Clam plate. It it necessary? Nope. Is it wrong? Also Nope.
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This is the only type of auger drill bit I know that will pull itself down. But it is made for drill through wood.
(https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.M0b2483376be8ad9dc62c4843380f2df3o0&pid=15.1&P=0&w=260&h=182)
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I just tried my 8 inch K-Drill today and had the exact same results, using the Fuel M18. I previously had the 8 inch Nils with Clam plate and I think this is better. Toady I punched about 10 holes in 5-6 inches of ice and only used 1 quarter of the battery.
You didn't say what drill you were using? I have been punching lots of holes with my 8" k drill and m18 fuel no problem and no clam plate. I have yet to run out a battery, but it is my first year with it and we only have 9" of ice so far. Yes I do need slight down pressure but not much. So far in my opinion it is one of the best things for ice fishing I have ever bought. It drills the ice about 1 inch per second and only weighs 10 Lbs. So far everyone who has seen me use it or tried it themselves is amazed.
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Again, same type of results with my tests today. I love this thing. It is so light and easy to use. Just apply a little down pressure. I am not using the Clam Plate either. Fast too, about 1 inch per second.
I own the 8" k drill with M18 Fuel drill. Cut holes for the first time all last weekend with it through about 14" of ice. The only pressure I put on the drill was just the pressure of my hands holing onto the drill. I could get about 25-30 holes per 5.0 ah battery. We did a drill off between the new Ion X and my 8" k drill and the k drill smoked the Ion X handily. The k drill made drilling easy and not a heavy pain in the a$$. I would recommend buying one to anybody.
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I understand that they say that it will bite and pull itself down and if it doesn't that's false advertisement, but what is the big deal with having to apply slight downpressure while your drill is doing the work ??? ;D
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1 inch a second is not fast...
A kdrill isn't fast, nor is any chipper auger. They "spin their tires" a lot, as they are meant to do.. That's why all chipper style augers have a much faster recommended RPM range to make up for the tire spin (look at Jiffys).. They are a rougher, non critical type of cut. That's exactly what allows them to cut dirty ice, refroze holes, and still work when dull.. This tire spin is also exactly why chipper blades don't grab, and make for an easy machine to run for lighter weight people like kids..
Chipper blades have their place for sure.. Make sure the blades are sharp by learning to sharpen them yourself..
Ice can vary so much, some of it is really hard.. Depending on the hardness, a chipper style might need a little weight to bite in...
Two inches a second is doing alright...
<°)))>{
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Couple things, but let's start with the fact that you're doing it wrong and *you know* you're doing it wrong...
No version of the K-drill needs a Clam Plate, so right there it tells me that you aren't using the correct drill - they specify the model number of the drill for the reason that it's essentially necessary to get the "right" experience.
The K-drill has a spike on it, it can't *not* grab into the ice...so I have no clue what you're doing.
For K-drill owners who bought the auger and got the correct drill, little to no downward pressure is necessary - it certainly isn't for my k-drill auger with attached Milwaukee Fuel M18 1/2".
So there's the answer to your question - you're doing it wrong.
The amount of internet slandering in here is ridiculous...
Let me clarify, I have at one point owned and used every gas auger( Strikemaster, Eskimo, Jiffy, Nils, Kdrill) on the market. I have owned or used electric drill and or clam plate setups the last 3 years. I am not newbie, originally used the M18 Fuel 2604 1st gen back then and when the new M18 Fuel gen 2 2704 hammer drill came out I swap to that cause it had more power in lbs torque. Kdrill is not something new to me this year ive used it in past. Im well aware of its design and background from Kluge Augers.
To re-clarify myself and from hearing other kdrill users I am finding mix results how a Kdrill is performing straight out of the retail box. I have had a Kdrill and know a couple other who say their Kdrill need no pressure to cut, just weight alone of the clam plate or drill and it will pull down and drill. While others say they do need add slight down pressure. My last Kdrill 8" new out of the box required slight down pressure to cut on drill only or on clam plate, otherwise it just spins even after you cut 4 inches down, no slight pressure no cut at all.
No I am not refuting the part that the manual says you need to apply slight down pressure. I am basically giving my prior experience with multiple kdrill units and how they are performing differently.
My original question was to ask when you used your Kdrill do you need to apply slight down pressure or not? From what it seems I have gotten mix feedback similar to my experience. So i have sent an email to Vexilar/Kluge to put rest my curiousity so that I dont feel that I have a defective product not performing the way its expected to.
Thanks to those who responded or gave feedback in a civil manner accordingly to the topic.
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I think you may also be running into people's definition of no downward pressure. If I have a drill that I have to lean on and put my 200pounds plus of weight on to make it drill i consider that downward pressure. If I rest my hands on the drill handle and pull down ever so slightly I might well tell you I am not putting any downwards pressure on the drill. Even though technically I am. This is really a sill thread.
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I think you may also be running into people's definition of no downward pressure. If I have a drill that I have to lean on and put my 200pounds plus of weight on to make it drill i consider that downward pressure. If I rest my hands on the drill handle and pull down ever so slightly I might well tell you I am not putting any downwards pressure on the drill. Even though technically I am. This is really a sill thread.
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I agree!
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My neighbor and I did a speed test the other weekend between my 8" K Drill and his new 8" Ion X auger. The K Drill beat the Ion X handily through 14" of ice. We only drilled one hole a piece so I don't know for sure but the K Drill was so much faster than the Ion X that the K Drill could probably drill almost 2 holes to every one the Ion X does. I also just got the new Milwaukee 9.0 battery in the mail yesterday. I am going to be trying it out this weekend. I should be able to now drill close to 100 holes through 20" or less of ice with my K Drill and 2 5.0 batteries and the one 9.0 battery.
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You didn't say what drill you were using? I have been punching lots of holes with my 8" k drill and m18 fuel no problem and no clam plate. I have yet to run out a battery, but it is my first year with it and we only have 9" of ice so far. Yes I do need slight down pressure but not much. So far in my opinion it is one of the best things for ice fishing I have ever bought. It drills the ice about 1 inch per second and only weighs 10 Lbs. So far everyone who has seen me use it or tried it themselves is amazed.
I was out on a lake down here this past weekend with one of my buddies who just pieced together his Fuell M18 and Kdrill 8".......let's put it this way. No way am I spending 500-600 on a gas or propane auger next year. I'm 100% on board with this set up after using to drill about 50 holes.
Drop me an IM at the end of the season and let me know how your set up handled 20+" this winter.
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No version of the K-drill needs a Clam Plate, so right there it tells me that you aren't using the correct drill - they specify the model number of the drill for the reason that it's essentially necessary to get the "right" experience.
Really..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=5rMGR0up0-A
Looks like I would want the plate in that situation..
<°)))>{
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KDrills slow, a lot of torque and eats batteries.
. Unless you have some vested interest in kdrill, Stop arguing and making excuses. Get a Nils Master.
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andy, my 6" lazer used to use no extra pressure other than the weight of my arms and drill. after 10 years or so with the same auger, it now wants me to push down on it. i can see it looks like a slight bend in the section that holds the blade that isn't attached to the flite. so this means only one blade is cutting or only one blade is leading the cut. the only way i can see this change is the paint has a missing line of paint going up and down in that area that holds the blade.
so the slight change you noticed from your first bit is probably the answer to your question. what type of change did you see?
Really..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=5rMGR0up0-A
Looks like I would want the plate in that situation..
off topic, but this guy should learn how to hold a bit straight lol! he for sure needs some help with a extra large handle big time!!
he kept changing the cutting angle numerous times in the 2nd and 3rd hole and binding it every time he did so. he also allowed his hands to turn so they were not side by side and instead allowed them to turn so one was straight out in front of him and one close to his center of his body. that was very dangerous too! he is going to get hurt like that.
you need to keep your hands in front of each shoulder.
also, if that's the new 1200 inch pound drill, then no thank you! the motor stopped when he changed his cutting angle like 6 or 7 times.
thanks for the video, it made me laugh!!
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Looked like his battery might be about dead to me & yep gotta hold the bit level (straight) . On second year & my K-drill has never done what what this video shown .
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I can't agree more with Frank (sharp nils) . You will get two to three times as many holes with the nils at least and do it three times faster on one battery. Believe me I have tested them side by side.
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I can't agree more with Frank (sharp nils) . You will get two to three times as many holes with the nils at least and do it three times faster on one battery. Believe me I have tested them side by side.
We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling
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Iceman....I agree with you, my thoughts exactly.
quote author=iceman10 link=topic=339212.msg3641875#msg3641875 date=1485212791]
We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling
[/quote]
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We can agree to disagree, sold my nils ! The Blades are hard to come bye & cost 3 times as much as the k-drill . The weight is a better trade off for me also . Happy drilling
Everything said is true.
But, the Nils is very finicky. Dirty Ice, Debris (wood, leaves), I even saw a "Foul Mouthed Heathen" swear in front of my friends Nils
and it stopped cutting. $12 USPS Priority Mail each way and $20 for the service leaves the Nils 1 week AWOL with a $44 bill for sharpening.
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I know the sharpening is free for the kdrill but is the $12.00 USPS Priority Mail included also? How many times will you be able to sharpen them before you need to buy a new set of blades for $40.00 especially when it's at there discretion if they can be sharpened or not? They say to allow at least 3 weeks to get your kdrill blades sharped!
Dirty ice, debris,wood ect. will dull any blades it just that the chipper blades will continue to try to cut it will just take longer, use more battery and and be harder on your drill.
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Everything said is true.
But, the Nils is very finicky. Dirty Ice, Debris (wood, leaves), I even saw a "Foul Mouthed Heathen" swear in front of my friends Nils
and it stopped cutting. $12 USPS Priority Mail each way and $20 for the service leaves the Nils 1 week AWOL with a $44 bill for sharpening.
To tell you the truth both the Nils and the k drill are over priced by far. If a guy buys and uses either its not because of price.....
Here is my run down On what stuff cost me....yeah the Kdrill and nils are nice, but if a guy just wants a decent auger that does a good job drillin holes a simple 8in $40 shaver is hard to beat not really any reason for spending more.
Nils 8in hand auger $125 (cabelas sale &free ship)
Nils 8in power point of craigslist sharpend by frank D. used $40
On 3rd year still havent had original blade sharpened and it cuts great.
Nils total $165
K-drill $190 8in
spare blades $40
k-drll total $230
8in lazer $80
blades $25
lazer total $105
Mora $40
blades $10
total $50
IMO a reason for a person to kinda justify or reason to by the k-drill or nils is because they are both augers with pilot points on them (If you get the Power Point nils head) This is extremely nice when cutting a hole inside your ice castle or wheel house for positioning and starting holes. Which is why I got the drill setup and the 8in Nils.
Where the nils has a few better points over the k-drill is the actual hole size is a little over 8in. The K-drill is only 7 1/2 in. A larger hole is handy when the cold is on and your holes are shrinking. Also the Nils length is nice. On a clam plate It's tall enough you shouldnt need and extention....I did buy a flight extention but have never needed it in the wheel house yet.
The point for the k-drill is that it has a chipper style blade which reopens holes a lot easier/nicer.
To sum things up unless a guy has a shack that he wants a starting point on an auger. I'd just buy a mora for $40 cheap to start cheap to maintain and cuts just fine.
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I just want to know where you guys are getting KDrills for 190.00?
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Sportsman guide $188
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I just want to know where you guys are getting KDrills for 190.00?
just look around for a deal. a nils usually runs $180-$190 for the 8in. I ordered from cabelas a few years ago and they were on sale and had a ticket for another $25 off and free ship.....like anything you can find a deal on the internet.