Jiffy Model 30 Help

[micht2]

I have a 1980's model 30 that starts pretty good and idles not too bad, but has limited full throttle power (and that's without a load).  I've tried all the recommended carb adjustment starting points which is basically to start with each screw about 1 turn out.  When I do this it won't start.  The only way I can get it to start is with the LS/Idle (left) screw about 1/8 of a turn out and the HS (right) screw about 1/16 of a turn out.  At idle I turn the HS out and it really doesn't do anything.  If I turn the LS out it bogs down after about 1/8-1/4 of a turn.  I really have next to no room to turn either screw in.  Any thoughts on what is going on?  Or suggestions on what to do?  Is the carb pulling air in from somewhere and that's why the screws need to be almost fully turned in?  Thanks in advance for your help.

[hardwater diehard]

SeaFoam..worth a shot..

[meandcuznalfy]

Maybe change the spark plug

[iceman260]

Take the muffler off and check the exhaust ports . Sometimes they get plugged up with carbon. You should see three round holes .

[Wyoming_Ice]

Mine would do the same thing. It was the rubber diaphragm in the carburetor. Thanks to ethanol gas....   

 Wyo Ice

[Gunflint]

The more I read this, the happier I am for electric and batteries!

[Finnt]

Diaphragm

[DR.SPECKLER]

Diaphragm

yep probably dried up and not working or cracked.

[micht2]

Thanks everyone for the quick responses. I will take a look at the muffler and the diaphragm but won't get at it until this weekend. Will update after that.  Cheers!

[Alex Delarge]

Diaphragm is a good place to start. Keep in mind that these augers were meant to run under load. Don’t think that it will get the rpm like a chainsaw. The air vane governor will prevent it from revving high

[dearjimschmidt]

I just did some serious work to my Model 30, which would start with several pulls and primes last year and would bog down under load when drilling. 

Here is what I did:

I removed the recoil and flywheel, where I then replaced the burned out contact points (all of them) and condenser and spark plug boot, as I believe they were still the original ones. I re-assembled this as tested for spark, which was good.

I then removed and cleaned out the gas tank and disassembled and rebuilt the carb.  I assembled the carb and gas tank back together with new fuel line and a new gas cap.

I also got a new softer prime bulb and a red throttle linkage cap/grip since mine was missing.

This project cost me about $104 and maybe 4 hours of my time.

My Model 30 is startable with 3 primes and 1 pull and I cannot wait to rip some hole with it this year.

[micht2]

Finally got at it.  Found that the idle and high speed screws where swapped.  Put them in right and set them to 3/4-1 turn our and bam, fired up second pull.  Couple small adjustments and it idles nicely and hits the high speed 2-stroke power band perfectly.  Can't wait to rip some holes tomorrow to really test it out. 

Bought the auger last year and that's how the screws where when I got it.  Never did run right until now

Thanks everyone for your imput.

[hardwater diehard]

Finally got at it.  Found that the idle and high speed screws where swapped.  Put them in right and set them to 3/4-1 turn our and bam, fired up second pull.  Couple small adjustments and it idles nicely and hits the high speed 2-stroke power band perfectly.  Can't wait to rip some holes tomorrow to really test it out. 

Bought the auger last year and that's how the screws where when I got it.  Never did run right until now

Thanks everyone for your imput.

Well that a new one and one for the books ...

[Unclegillhunter]

Really kool! Glad y’all got it figured out!
Keep it safe! JDL