Drill Auger question

[SirCranksalot]

I just use my body as a brace and the drill slides down the side of my body.

Sounds dangerous---those cutting blades should be as far away from your body as possible  in case they decide to skate

[hardwater diehard]

Sounds dangerous---those cutting blades should be as far away from your body as possible  in case they decide to skate

Only without a center point ..didnt we have a IS member that got a nasty boo boo a season or two ago

4:16 mark

[3300]

Was a blue mora auger that cut a boot wide open and some skin. Think he was messing with modifying his augers to make them lite. Seems like he said he had his drill in speed 2 later.

Never had a auger skate. I always use lazers with no point. If your not paying attention you might be able to get hurt when starting a cut or if ice is built up on a blade.

Allowing the drill to ride against your body doesn't mean the cutting end is too close.

Some folks don't even use the aux. handle and are good.

[PikeKing23]

I use blue mora's and I can attest that they are very dangerous!  I have cut open 2 pairs of boots with them, lol.  The blades on a mora are set at an angle that is much more parallel to the ice than lasers.  More flat area on the blades that touch the ice before it grabs.  Mora's will definitely dance if your not careful.

[papadarv]

Modify your Blue Mora, no walk, won't cut boots or feet, increase drilling speed. I used the K-Drill point design has better start cut than pointed design. Use flat spade wood bits for point. Welded 3/8" bolt to tip, drill & tap auger. Added a 0.40 shim to leading edge of blade increase blade angle. The agressive blades cut 1/4 to 5/16 ice per revolution of drill has a tendency to stop my Milwaukee 2804 so its used on gas auger for 30+ " of ice. I mostly use the less agressine version with reverse slush propell fins which push the slush 18" away from the hole under ice running in reverse. Drill speed using the less agressive auger is about 15 - 17 seconds on 20" of hard MN ice.

[kayl]

I recommend using the plate for stability, which equals safety. It does come down to the auger your using too, some like the lazer will catch on the bottom before breaking through, having the plate really helps with keeping a proper grip on the rig. As for the hub shelter anchors, I went with a speed wrench that I keep in the bag with the shelter.

Same here and it's great!

[SirCranksalot]

Modify your Blue Mora, no walk, won't cut boots or feet, increase drilling speed. I used the K-Drill point design has better start cut than pointed design. Use flat spade wood bits for point. Welded 3/8" bolt to tip, drill & tap auger. Added a 0.40 shim to leading edge of blade increase blade angle. The agressive blades cut 1/4 to 5/16 ice per revolution of drill has a tendency to stop my Milwaukee 2804 so its used on gas auger for 30+ " of ice. I mostly use the less agressine version with reverse slush propell fins which push the slush 18" away from the hole under ice running in reverse. Drill speed using the less agressive auger is about 15 - 17 seconds on 20" of hard MN ice.

I had a reg steel twist drill welded to a bolt and tapped into my Mora---removed it when there was snow on the ice.i

[spoofhoundicefisher]

The clam plate is for guys who can’t handle a drill and need butterfly handles.  I don’t use it and have no desire to get one.  If your drill has a side handle on it you’ll be just fine.

cutting a wide swath here for the guys who use the clam plate.  biggest reason for me is that the kids can use the drill with the clam plate and not have to worry about them breaking their wrist. 

[badger132]

Another variable is the size and type of auger attached. I use a 5 inch Lazer, and if the slush is just right, I wish I had more leverage for the grabbing. I look at the 8 and even 10 inch augers people expect to spin, and would never consider trying to hold the drill directly.
I know Nils sharpens the head differently to be less aggressive in their versions designed for power- I see some modified manual setups that look like they require a lot of torque.
If you really want to have the smallest and lightest setup, consider carefully how big a hole you need. That is the biggest driver of torque and power required.

 

[3300]

Another variable is the size and type of auger attached. I use a 5 inch Lazer, and if the slush is just right, I wish I had more leverage for the grabbing. I look at the 8 and even 10 inch augers people expect to spin, and would never consider trying to hold the drill directly.
I know Nils sharpens the head differently to be less aggressive in their versions designed for power- I see some modified manual setups that look like they require a lot of torque.
If you really want to have the smallest and lightest setup, consider carefully how big a hole you need. That is the biggest driver of torque and power required.

 

I own the laser in 4, 6 and 8 and spin them with a ridgid octane 1300 inch pounds and aux. handle with 100 percent confidence and no issues all day.

Sold my clam plate back to retailer. No need for it and bad wobble made it less than desirable. Some don't bother with the aux. handle that comes with the drill.

[Peccavi18]

I run a Milwaukee M18 Fuel drill with Nils auger. Never ran a clam plate, usually use the drill's side handle, but have forgotten it once or twice and been fine just using the drill carefully.