Tipup sealant

[caddis]

What would you consider the best way to waterproof a cross base tipup? Have never done it and have some that could use it. Thanks

[Kevin23]

I have used this on multiple wood projects https://www.homedepot.com/p/Olympic-Waterguard-1-gal-Clear-Wood-Sealer-55260XI-01/305542042

Brush it on or wipe it on with a rag, then hit it with a hair dryer and it will make the wood expand and suck more in. I do 2 or 3 coats. It's pretty natural too so no worries about some leaking into the lake.

If you want a 100% waterproof coating you will need to use a urathane and essentially clear coat your tipup. You can get it in a matte or satin so it won't look too shiny and still have some of the old fashioned wood look.

[caddis]

Thanks, I will check that out!

[smitty]

Great idea will be buying this today to seal my new Heritage tip ups

smitty

[UFCreel]

Really you want a Marine Spar Varnish. There are many brands out there. For best protection, apply three coats. With a light sanding in between each coat.

[DR.SPECKLER]

Spar varnish.i used it on my transom wood on my boat.if its good enough to protect wood thats submerged under water its good for a tipup.its soaks into the wood the first few coats.you can stain the tippy any color first then put on the spar varnish.

[esox_xtm]

I've mentioned this before but if'n I had wood tippys I'd do 'em in tung oil.

Dad used to use turpentine and boiled linseed 50/50 on rifle stocks. He actually scrape any poly finish off to redo in oil. While it looked great and was easy to touch up linseed never got really hard and when it got wet it would always get a little "white". It'd always look fine on drying but I thought never really protected the wood well.

I went down the same path of refinishing only I used tung oil instead of Dad's mix. Wipe on, let it soak in, dry hard. Repeat. You'll know when it's enough. Once you get 4 - 7 applications and it dries completely it's good to go for a number of years. Looks terrific and doesn't get that "white" when wet. Get a scratch? Hit it with some steel wool and tung. Done. Get a scratch with spar or poly? That's a chore to repair and have look perfect (if that's what you want).

From the Al Gore International Library: "Tung Oil has been around for many many years. It was used to preserve wood ships for hundreds of years. The oil penetrates into the wood, providing a relatively hard surface that repels water, giving it a waterproof finish. Another bonus is that tung oil seeps into the grain of the wood making the grain pop. In other words, the color of the wood is slightly darkened, giving the wood a rich, warm color or beings out the natural color of the wood. When tung oil is not thinned, in other words, it’s 100% tung oil, it’s a non-toxic finish. "

All's I know is my rifle stocks look fantastic (love the look of natural wood) and take a week or so in the woods under the worst conditions in stride. And maintenance in minimal.

Don't have to take a chance on all yer rigs. Try it on one and see what you think.

[flagup!]

I'm a boiled linseed oil guy.   Mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits and brush it on every couple of years.   Also protects metal on the tip ups.  Also use it on my spud, hammers, axes, and chisels.  You just don't put it on to thick or it will stay tacky.  Couple of light coats mixed 50/50 dries hard.     

[dogfish]

Where you boys getting spar varnish?  They made that illegal around me just like oil based paint, bad for the environment "they" say.  All I can get is Spar Urethane and it sucks compared to varnish.
I will second the boiled linseed oil, I cut it with turpentine instead of spirits. I also tend to put it in a dedicated pan or metal can on the wood stove and heat it up before I put it on.  I feel it kicks the exothermic reaction up a notch or two.

[DR.SPECKLER]

Spar varnish is everywhere here.all the hardware stores carry it and doing a search on it on the ol web theres no shortage of it.

[esox_xtm]

Please, someone try it... Linseed will never be as hard or durable as tung. I've done both and I'll never go back to linseed. Ever.

[flagup!]

esox,
I agree with you....i'm going to switch over to tung oil....as soon as I run out of linseed oil...……. About 10 more years I think. 

[esox_xtm]

esox,
I agree with you....i'm going to switch over to tung oil....as soon as I run out of linseed oil...……. About 10 more years I think. 

Ain't that the truth! I got probably a half gallon of linseed left (at least) that I've already had for 30 years. But I'll never use it 'cause tung is that much better. The matching can of turpentine is about half evaporated  .

[Roccus]

Please, someone try it... Linseed will never be as hard or durable as tung. I've done both and I'll never go back to linseed. Ever.

Tung oil is a premium sealant, used for hundreds of years on sailing schooners.
I build salt water plugs for striped bass, have done so for 50 years, for many, many year I I used 60/40  BLO  and Turpentine,  about 15 years ago I went to Tung oil,  looking for something that would dry faster and be more durable, research sent me to tung oil, it is far superior and SAFER  than BLO  and Turps. Which can spontaneously combust if care is not taken...
I also build tip ups( I've done  a how to here on shanty on my Snow leopard tip ups), the wood is sealed with tung oul, then painted with marine grade polyurethane paint and then given 3 coats of marine spar varnish..

Not only are they beautiful,  they are extremely durable.

[Rebelss]

Where you boys getting spar varnish?  They made that illegal around me just like oil based paint, bad for the environment "they" say.  All I can get is Spar Urethane and it sucks compared to varnish.
I will second the boiled linseed oil, I cut it with turpentine instead of spirits. I also tend to put it in a dedicated pan or metal can on the wood stove and heat it up before I put it on.  I feel it kicks the exothermic reaction up a notch or two.

Everywhere.  Menard's. Wally World. Ace. Home depot.  But, I notice they no longer say if it's urethane...which does suck.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Marine-Coatings-Spar-Varnish-Gloss-Quart/52500347?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227040546632&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=99652568194&wl4=pla-235725029554&wl5=9019794&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=52500347&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAtej9BRAvEiwA0UAWXpCGLl7wvTGkEBf05T8Ybwc3eMc1tCHXQRal6numgPj9OvVMacagKxoCwX4QAvD_BwE

[esox_xtm]

Tung oil is a premium sealant, used for hundreds of years on sailing schooners.
I build salt water plugs for striped bass, have done so for 50 years, for many, many year I I used 60/40  BLO  and Turpentine,  about 15 years ago I went to Tung oil,  looking for something that would dry faster and be more durable, research sent me to tung oil, it is far superior and SAFER  than BLO  and Turps. Which can spontaneously combust if care is not taken...
I also build tip ups( I've done  a how to here on shanty on my Snow leopard tip ups), the wood is sealed with tung oul, then painted with marine grade polyurethane paint and then given 3 coats of marine spar varnish..

Not only are they beautiful,  they are extremely durable.

God bless you Roccus! 

[Water Dog]

Hi guys, first post, long time lurker…. sorry for digging up an old thread.  I recently purchased a set of new unfinished Heritage Lakers.  I plan on stripping off the hardware and finishing the bare wood.  I got some pure Tung oil on the way.  My question is, for the first coat, should I dilute it 1:1with mineral spirits or just try to soak it out with the pure Tung oil, wipe off the excess and let it dry for a few weeks before applying the second coat?  Should I sand between coats?  Been reading a bunch of stuff online and it gets a bit overwhelming.  Appreciate any advice you may be able to provide on Tung oil application.  Thanks!

[esox_xtm]

All my Tung oil experience is with furniture or gunstocks but I'd guess it's really all pretty much the same. I usually give the piece a good wipe down with a wet cloth (more than just damp) to raise the grain of the wood first. This opens up stuff so it's easier for whatever you apply next to soak in well. Allow to dry fully and apply your Tung oil fairly generously.

Tung oil is fairly thin already so I've never thinned it with anything. I do warm the bare wood up a bit before I apply either with a hot air gun or laying it on top of the space heater for a couple minutes. Or you can warm the oil a bit or both. Don't be shy with that first coat, bare wood will suck up a lot. I will keep wiping on until it just won't soak in anymore. Your eyes will tell you when you're there. Allow that coat to dry very well, at least a week or more depending on humidity. Give your piece a light sanding, clean thoroughly and apply a second coat. Let it dry again and apply more TO.

When treating bare wood for the first time you may be into at least three but more often 4 to 5 applications. If you want super smooth finish do a little light sanding between each coat. Allow to dry beyond tacky to the touch before you reapply. Also plan ahead to be finished with your finishing to give the item a few weeks to dry completely. One of the bonuses with Tung is is dries quite hard but is easy to touch up if required. Also you will find there are high gloss and low gloss products. Choose the one you favor, no real difference in performance that I have found. You can also apply one over the other if you change your mind.

[Water Dog]

Your insight is much appreciated.  I bought pure Tung oil which is fairly thick and syrupy.  Sometimes they sell Tung oil blends with solvents already mixed in to make it easier to apply and dry.  I went ahead and bought some pure orange oil solvent to thin that first coat out at a 1:1 ratio.  I will heed your advice on the application process, proper drying  and light sanding between coats.  Thanks again!