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IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: copperjig on Jan 14, 2019, 06:49 PM
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Folks, I know I read on some post, that I cant find now, that people were having an issue with the clam plate breaking triggers on some drills. Does anyone know where that post is or what you have to do to remedy the situation. My Rigid drill is coming soon and before I mount it I would like to know so I don't break the thing first time out. Thanks
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Make sure drill is mounted right, look at trigger when u pull the lever and make sure it’s flush with trigger, if not move drill either up down or whatever it needs to make the contact flush. Never had a problem with mine, had it 4 yrs
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I think its just the ryobi p251 that has that issue. Its trigger assembly is made weird and can flex when only pressed from the rear of the trigger like the clam plate does.
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I have a octane on the plate.mount the trigger assembly in the same slot as the drill handle u bolt fastener on the clam plates up right post.the directions say put trigger in the 1st slot but it does not line up good with the trigger on the drill there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SYC2cjJg/A2534972-BA40-4-D4-E-B06-C-ACF224-ED6889.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SYC2cjJg)
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What Doc says. Works great with the Octane.
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Folks, I know I read on some post, that I cant find now, that people were having an issue with the clam plate breaking triggers on some drills. Does anyone know where that post is or what you have to do to remedy the situation. My Rigid drill is coming soon and before I mount it I would like to know so I don't break the thing first time out. Thanks
One person only.. A his issue was because he had his trigger locked (in between forward and reverse) and forced it which broke it. The lock did exactly what it was supposed to do (not let the drill run) and the plate did what it's supposed to do (pull the trigger)...
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I think its just the ryobi p251 that has that issue. Its trigger assembly is made weird and can flex when only pressed from the rear of the trigger like the clam plate does.
Yup. It's really the only beef I have with that drill. It might be an issue with other drills as well...I don't know. I guess it just comes down to paying attention to how everything lines up when you mount a drill on the thing. Even with the Ryobi there is a sweet spot with it where this isn't an issue. It just takes a bit of patience and extra attention. I don't think it would be an issue in warm temps but as we know when it gets colder things get brittle and tend to break easier.
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Yea I too saw a post where a guy broke the trigger on his drill I believe in his case it was a Milwuakee drill and as scratcher stated he had it in lock mode. With the leverage you have with the plate if you lock the trigger you will run a risk of breaking it on any drill. Pull the battery instead of locking the trigger. I believe I DrSpeckler mounted the trigger in the rear slot to overcome the issue of pressing the switch for the light on the Rigid drill if I remember another thread correctly. I also have a Rigid drill the 725 inlb so a little different drill but had the same light issue. I used a short about 1" long piece of 3/4" heater hose between the ubolt and drill handle and was able to use the front slot for the trigger asm and the rear slot to hold the drill without turning on the light. Not saying it's better than the way Doc has his just another way to do it. Heck it's a different model drill might not work on his. I have the front lip of the drill chuck 1" above the plate surface. With the trigger linkage as short as I could adjust it I was able get it to center pretty well on the drill trigger. Since the plate is a universal product for any drill you throw on it you just have to keep adjusting until you're happy with the results.
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Yea I too saw a post where a guy broke the trigger on his drill I believe in his case it was a Milwuakee drill and as scratcher stated he had it in lock mode. With the leverage you have with the plate if you lock the trigger you will run a risk of breaking it on any drill. Pull the battery instead of locking the trigger. I believe I DrSpeckler mounted the trigger in the rear slot to overcome the issue of pressing the switch for the light on the Rigid drill if I remember another thread correctly. I also have a Rigid drill the 725 inlb so a little different drill but had the same light issue. I used a short about 1" long piece of 3/4" heater hose between the ubolt and drill handle and was able to use the front slot for the trigger asm and the rear slot to hold the drill without turning on the light. Not saying it's better than the way Doc has his just another way to do it. Heck it's a different model drill might not work on his. I have the front lip of the drill chuck 1" above the plate surface. With the trigger linkage as short as I could adjust it I was able get it to center pretty well on the drill trigger. Since the plate is a universal product for any drill you throw on it you just have to keep adjusting until you're happy with the results.
I always lock the drill for safety's sake. My buddy didn't know how to unlock the drill and squeezed the plate trigger too hard till the drill trigger cracked. Now i either drill the holes or double check it's not locked before I let anyone else use it. Milwaukee repaired it quickly under warranty.
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I broke the trigger on my milwaulkee drill also and I did have it in the mid-lock position d/t it started turning by itself a couple of times while traveling (that was fun watching my bungees that were holding it get tied in knot as I was driving along). I didn't want to pull the battery from drill as I was moving around a lot. I think not having the trigger adjusted exactly correct was a factor also ( arm not hitting exact center of trigger). Milwaukee warranteed it and I have reformed my ways as in a more exact trigger adjustment and no more locking it mid center which means I have to pull my battery everytime I move. Even though it was my error I was surprised that the trigger button is only held on by a very thin plastic rod that is integral to the very expensive switch mechanism, seems like it should be a steel rod.
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i could see that happening very easily.
with the octane you could adjust the plates trigger extension to make the plates trigger flap land on the drills trigger guard on the bottom of the trigger so it can't push too far on the drills trigger. this is do able while using the "same slot method".
i returned mine. i didn't like it at all.
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I don't see where people are having issues with installing the Octane on the Clam Plate. I thought it when on pretty smoothly. I did not have to use the same slot that the drill mounts to.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QBpYMRJP/IMG-20190115-171218.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBpYMRJP)
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I don't see where people are having issues with installing the Octane on the Clam Plate. I thought it when on pretty smoothly. I did not have to use the same slot that the drill mounts to.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QBpYMRJP/IMG-20190115-171218.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBpYMRJP)
the chuck doesn't look straight on adapter but your trigger mech is aligned nice.have you tried it?light switch on the drill handle stayed on that way also when I did mine.
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I've used it 3 times and couldn't be more impressed. Drilled over 100 holes. It might be just a hair crooked but it's had no effect on it. I used a little bit of electrical tape for a spacer so the light doesn't come on. I haven't adjusted it since the first time setting up. I also don't think I need a trigger spring. It lets go smoothly when I do. I did put a rubber band stopper for now so it doesn't go too far. I was worried with all the negativity with the Octane, Clam Plate, Clam Extension issues I've read that I'd regret this combo. Probably just people being nit picky. But I don't have any negatives to say except it cuts to fast and if I don't let up near the end it spays water everywhere.
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Well I just got the drill and battery the other day and put it all together. NICE. I can't to try it out. As far as using the same slot, you have to use the same slot on the drill I bought. The near slot puts it to far forward. Ill try it without the spring first and see how she goes. Now I have to make a weather proof cover for it.
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Just used mine with the Ryobi for the first time today. Couldn't be more impressed.
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I found the video. seems like with a good starting procedure----put drill in forward, press trigger----there will be no prob. If concerned that drill will accidenally start when transporting, for e.g., pop the battery out rather than lock the trigger.
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I pop my battery off when moving or packing up.
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I bought the clam plate last year at Dick's for $40.00 knowing that I was going to get a M18 this year. Anyway, after putting the drill on the plate I didn't like how the trigger for the plate lined up right on top of the handle, so I moved the linkage into the slot that the U bolt holds the handle of the drill, and it's moved the trigger farther away from the handle, works a lot better.
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Don't get married to that Clam plate. When I was running my M18 Fuel last year on a Clam plate , it worked great and enabled me to control the torque on that drill. This year I got
an Octane so I could keep the Fuel in the shop. Had nothing with problems with the wobble and alignment between the Octane drill and the Clam plate. So I took everything apart
and put it back together with a Kovac adaptor and life is sweet again. Mounted the drill extension handle opposite the trigger handle and it spins my 7" Nero auger effortlessly.
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Don't get married to that Clam plate. When I was running my M18 Fuel last year on a Clam plate , it worked great and enabled me to control the torque on that drill. This year I got
an Octane so I could keep the Fuel in the shop. Had nothing with problems with the wobble and alignment between the Octane drill and the Clam plate. So I took everything apart
and put it back together with a Kovac adaptor and life is sweet again. Mounted the drill extension handle opposite the trigger handle and it spins my 7" Nero auger effortlessly.
I did the same thing with my octane and it is awesome. Yes there is a little wobble but I will take care of it in the off season. It has more to do with the fittings on the extension. My buddy is going to weld up some sleeves and then everything should be fine.
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I simplified the Plate by removing some of the vertical support and drilling a new U bolt hole. Works great and I dont have a lot of aluminum sticking above my drill now. Also, I only used the one trigger brecket. The additional bracket used to lengthen the trigger arm really isn't needed. The trigger spring make a big difference also. I love this set up!
(https://i.postimg.cc/SX3r4bfQ/20190207-191035.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SX3r4bfQ)
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Yep in the clam plate instructions it mentions that the extra extension bracket on the trigger mech could/should be removed on short body drills.i had mine like that the first time but put it back on because i didnt want to lose it in case i need to use a different drill.