IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Equipment => Ice Augers => Topic started by: fullThrottle on Mar 04, 2018, 10:57 PM
-
-
Remove all the gas and replace spark plug .store upright garage shed and wait for next winter.
-
The following are storage recommendations only. Because of today’s fuels StrikeMaster cannot guarantee results.
ENGINE OIL
• Change crankcase oil before the start or at the end of each season or 50hrs of use with fresh StrikeMaster API SM (as a minimum)
OW-20 4-Cycle Synthetic Engine Oil.
CLEAN AND STORE EACH SEASON
• At the end of the season, add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank. Be sure to keep the tank approximately 1/4 full of gasoline.
• Run for 2-3 minutes then turn off.
• Remove the spark plug, pour about 2 cc (about 4 drops) engine oil into the cylinder, slowly pull the starter handle of the recoil starter 2 or 3
times, and tighten the spark plug.
• Slowly pull the recoil starter handle until resistance is felt, and leave it in that position.
• Spray WD-40 or oil on the blades and screws to help reduce rust or corrosion.
• Clean the engine thoroughly with a clean cloth, put a cover on and store the engine indoors in well ventilated low humidity area.
• Store all auger styles with blade guard attached.
• At the beginning of the next season, drain gas tank of old fuel and add fresh winter blend gasoline.
these are the storage instructions that came with my 4 stroke strikemaster my eskomo was 45 years old still runs and all I ever did was drain the tank and oil in the cyl.
-
Not a fan of removing all the fuel. That can lead to its own problems.
-
My Dad bought a one armed bandit Jiffy around 1972.
Have never done a thing to it at the end of the season except toss it into the back corner of the shed.
At the start of the upcoming ice season, dump out the old gas, pour in new, prime it a couple times, choke it and pull once or twice to start it.
In 46 years (it's still running to this day) it's only had a couple (maybe) new spark plugs, never had a carb rebuild or needed tearing down to fix.
They sure don't make 'em like they used to.
-
Yeah the older engines arnt built to newer emissions standards. The newer engines are more finicky when it comes to storage.
-
Easy...turning my nils power into an anchor and getting something new for next year. I stored it for years with a full tank of trufuel and never had an issue. I also would not empty the fuel. Lines will dryrot. Also a good idea to fire it up once or twice to lubricate the piston. You could fog it if you wanted to ensure protection but to me its overkill.
-
Great tips fullthrottle,thanks. By the way was that 1/2throttle in the video?
-
For my 2 stroke I use NON-E fuel put in fresh fuel little sea foam , there is enough oil in the mix to lube , fogging isn’t really necessary , Run 5 min and store , I start once or twice in the off season ,
-
Easy...turning my nils power into an anchor and getting something new for next year. I stored it for years with a full tank of trufuel and never had an issue. I also would not empty the fuel. Lines will dryrot. Also a good idea to fire it up once or twice to lubricate the piston. You could fog it if you wanted to ensure protection but to me its overkill.
yup strike master and Honda recommend storing with a 1/4 tank of gas (no alcohol) with stabilizer in it beginning of next season toss that gas and fill with good non alcohol gas....I changed my oil last year i think it's good ...and I just smear a little grease on my blades .....
next week we are going to discuss how to but a cover on your sled so it doesn't fill with snow when you drive across the lake ;D
-
Lol Trap....I thought it was going to be a shaming video calling out guys for peeing on the ice! ;D
-
For my 2 stroke I use NON-E fuel put in fresh fuel little sea foam , there is enough oil in the mix to lube , fogging isn’t really necessary , Run 5 min and store , I start once or twice in the off season ,
Sea foam is a great product. I normally don’t use it for fuel stabilization. A properly running 2 stroke engine doesn’t introduce enough Oil into the cylinder for storage protection ( the oil drops out of the fuel when it enters the crank case to lube the international engine components. ) in almost every manufacturers storage procedures fogging the cylinder is recommended for storage. Especially with using a 50-1 ratio oil to fuel mix
-
Easy...turning my nils power into an anchor and getting something new for next year. I stored it for years with a full tank of trufuel and never had an issue. I also would not empty the fuel. Lines will dryrot. Also a good idea to fire it up once or twice to lubricate the piston. You could fog it if you wanted to ensure protection but to me its overkill.
Low, if you have seen the amount of 2 stroke Engines I get in the shop with a stuck piston you wouldn’t think that. I have a special punch I use to stick down the plug hole to crack the rust free lol .
-
Low, if you have seen the amount of 2 stroke Engines I get in the shop with a stuck piston you wouldn’t think that. I have a special punch I use to stick down the plug hole to crack the rust free lol .
I suppose if I were you, I MAY feel that way but I spent quite a bit of time as a mechanic myself and have never had an issue. No ethonol ever means no chance of condensation from water seperating from the alcohol in the combustion chamber while it sits. If you ran fuel with ethonol then what you suggest could happen more frequently.
-
I suppose if I were you, I MAY feel that way but I spent quite a bit of time as a mechanic myself and have never had an issue. No ethonol ever means no chance of condensation from water seperating from the alcohol in the combustion chamber while it sits. If you ran fuel with ethonol then what you suggest could happen more frequently.
Most of the time if you get a rusted up piston ring during storage it’s going to be from high humidity in the storage getting into the engines intake or exhaust system . If you have enough water in your fuel system to effect the way it runs that’s another issue. That’s why I recommended fresh fuel with treatment. Both treatments I recommend will also help with water in fuel. Also the engine isn’t collecting water from the fuel tank during storage because it’s not running
-
Lol Trap....I thought it was going to be a shaming video calling out guys for peeing on the ice! ;D
[/quote. I have never complainted about anyone relieving themselves on the ice the fish do that ......i have only complainted that if your going to scream about trash then pick it up
-
My ion auger I take the battery off and stand it in the corner till next winter
-
Most of the time if you get a rusted up piston ring during storage it’s going to be from high humidity in the storage getting into the engines intake or exhaust system . If you have enough water in your fuel system to effect the way it runs that’s another issue. That’s why I recommended fresh fuel with treatment. Both treatments I recommend will also help with water in fuel. Also the engine isn’t collecting water from the fuel tank during storage because it’s not running
Its a miracle my tanaka even worked then! You can be right if you'd like. I don't care to win the internet today. Its Monday and I am tired!
-
FT I don’t use 50:1 , I run a little richer and for the last 12 years it starts within 2cranks if Thats wrong guess I’ll continue to be ,😉 I had a model 30 Jiffy for 20 yrs and had the same results but it wasn’t seafoam back then
-
I drained all the gas from my STRIKE MASTER last spring and I had to replace a rubber grommet in the side of the gas tank because it dried out and started leaking gas. From now on I go back to the old way. A full tank of gas, new plug, and run for two minutes the first of every month. Also WD-40 on the blades. Never had a problem until I drained that gas tank.
-
FT, did you ever do the drone video on Lake George ?
also, in this video it was mentioned to replace blades on the auger if needed,...... but I was wondering if you plan on doing a video or have any tips on touching up, or sharpening blades and cutting heads on hand augers and power augers.
and IYO, What is the absolute #1 best oil or grease to use on auger blades to prevent rust, for during the season....... and for summer storage. You mentioned using the fogging oil on the blades, anything else just as good or better?
Also...I am getting ready to store my snowmobile for summer...it is an older 2 stroke, what would be the best way to store it until next December?...same as auger in the video?
-
This right off the strikemaster website
http://
b) Wet tank storage: Make sure to fill tank at least 1/4 full with fresh, stabilized fuel. Run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes. Then shut off and open fuel cap slightly to reduce the chance of pressure or swollen tank. For optimal storage, run engine once a month for 5-10 minutes.
-
FT, did you ever do the drone video on Lake George ?
also, in this video it was mentioned to replace blades on the auger if needed,...... but I was wondering if you plan on doing a video or have any tips on touching up, or sharpening blades and cutting heads on hand augers and power augers.
and IYO, What is the absolute #1 best oil or grease to use on auger blades to prevent rust, for during the season....... and for summer storage....you mentioned using the fogging oil on the blades, anything else just as good or better?
Also...I am getting ready to store my snowmobile for summer...it is an older 2 stroke, what would be the best way to store it until next December?...same as auger video?
I'd go with the manufacturers recommendation choo choo
when I worked for Honda and went to Honda school one of the biggest issues was people not following manufacturers recommendations ..... you can do what ever you want but you risk voiding warranties and possible damages to your motor .....
-
FT, did you ever do the drone video on Lake George ?
also, in this video it was mentioned to replace blades on the auger if needed,...... but I was wondering if you plan on doing a video or have any tips on touching up, or sharpening blades and cutting heads on hand augers and power augers.
and IYO, What is the absolute #1 best oil or grease to use on auger blades to prevent rust, for during the season....... and for summer storage. You mentioned using the fogging oil on the blades, anything else just as good or better?
Also...I am getting ready to store my snowmobile for summer...it is an older 2 stroke, what would be the best way to store it until next December?...same as auger in the video?
Sorry I didn’t get any more drone footage. On my last few trips it was just too windy.
As for sharping blades that’s a tricky one. I personally will just replace them. If you mess up the cutting angle it won’t cut correctly. Also want to keep them cool if you do sharpen them you don’t want to mess with the temper of the blade. If I was going to couch up my blades if use a small air grinder with rollocks with a fine grit.
My favorite anti rust spray is going to be fluid film. Works great for coating metal to keep rust off. I also use it for lubing cables and that type of stuff. When I made the video I wanted to keep it simple and use products that people might have at home already.
Same steps can be used on the sled. Only difference is that your going to treat the fuel in the tank. Fill it up with fresh gas and take it out for a spin to get everything mixed up and ran into the carbs. You can use the same fogging steps. And inspection. You might also want to change the chain case Oil at this time.
Just for a peace of mind I’m not just winging this. I am an automotive gas and diesel master tech. I’m also a certified briggs and STRATTON technician . I also own and operate a small Engine repair business in the capital area.
None of the routine maintenance above or in the video will void any type of warranty’s
-
FT I don’t use 50:1 , I run a little richer and for the last 12 years it starts within 2cranks if Thats wrong guess I’ll continue to be ,😉 I had a model 30 Jiffy for 20 yrs and had the same results but it wasn’t seafoam back then
I never said it was wrong but your not going to get the same corrosion protection. The the biggest factor is storage is climate. If you keep it in a dry area you might not ever have a problem but if stored in an area with high humidity you could have an issue.
-
Sorry I didn’t get any more drone footage. On my last few trips it was just too windy.
As for sharping blades that’s a tricky one. I personally will just replace them. If you mess up the cutting angle it won’t cut correctly. Also want to keep them cool if you do sharpen them you don’t want to mess with the temper of the blade. If I was going to couch up my blades if use a small air grinder with rollocks with a fine grit.
My favorite anti rust spray is going to be fluid film. Works great for coating metal to keep rust off. I also use it for lubing cables and that type of stuff. When I made the video I wanted to keep it simple and use products that people might have at home already.
Same steps can be used on the sled. Only difference is that your going to treat the fuel in the tank. Fill it up with fresh gas and take it out for a spin to get everything mixed up and ran into the carbs. You can use the same fogging steps. And inspection. You might also want to change the chain case Oil at this time.
Just for a peace of mind I’m not just winging this. I am an automotive gas and diesel master tech. I’m also a certified briggs and STRATTON technician . I also own and operate a small Engine repair business in the capital area.
None of the routine maintenance above or in the video will void any type of warranty’s
Thank you ft for the tips and advice....much appreciated.
-
I followed pretty close to what strike master suggests
But I do fog both my outboards
-
I followed pretty close to what strike master suggests
But I do fog both my outboards
My company also does winterization on boats and shrink wrapping. The main reason why 2 strokes will seize up during storage is because exhaust port leaves the piston and cylinder exposed to the air. And that can bring moisture from the airs humidity into the engine.
-
I do things a little different with 2 strokes. I get 'em running then add a bunch of extra oil to the mix. Make it smoke like a James Bond smoke screen even to the point of running rough. Choke it till it dies, pull the string until you feel resistance. Done. Not only top end "fogged" but bottom end has been liberally oiled as well. Leave the tank fueled, apply any cosmetic exterior applications and store.
In the late fall, pour the highly oiled gas into your lawn mower/tractor or whatever (thereby diluting the excess oil), refuel with fresh, replace the spark plug and let 'er rip. Worked a charm for 30 years on any 2 cycle: auger, weed whacker, chain saw, outboards... whatever.
EZPZ.
-
While I haven't watched the video, your replies are good information FT.
The 4 stroke and even newer 2's are finicky indeed.
I'm not a fan of wd-40. It's a light lubricant, basically for unscrewing nuts & bolts. Pretty much useless as a moisture inhibitor.
PB blaster is a huge step up but still not a long term protection. Royal purple is almost the best spray lubricant, moisture on the market. Yeah, the last 2 stink like heck. But they will un stuck frozen piston and last about 6 months in a damp environment.
If you really want protection on your external metal parts , wipe them down with a gear oil, or synthetic grease.
It's messy yes , but if moisture conditions are heavy such as a shed, garage or basement, it's the only suffice.
Also as you suggest, fog the cylinder and carb. Again, royal purple is good.
Most all gas lines and gaskets dry rot without a lubricant. 2 cycle oil also deteriorates the hoses.
I like to run them dry and disconnect to check conditions. If they are stiff or spungy, it's easier to think about changing them now instead of when it's time to go.
Now all this means nothing to me as my converted 1 arm 1972 bandit sits in the garage since I got my never fail nils hand auger 9 years ago:)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/4ohyd788b/20180305_191053.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4ohyd788b/)
-
I do things a little different with 2 strokes. I get 'em running then add a bunch of extra oil to the mix. Make it smoke like a James Bond smoke screen even to the point of running rough. Choke it till it dies, pull the string until you feel resistance. Done. Not only top end "fogged" but bottom end has been liberally oiled as well. Leave the tank fueled, apply any cosmetic exterior applications and store.
In the late fall, pour the highly oiled gas into your lawn mower/tractor or whatever (thereby diluting the excess oil), refuel with fresh, replace the spark plug and let 'er rip. Worked a charm for 30 years on any 2 cycle: auger, weed whacker, chain saw, outboards... whatever.
EZPZ.
That method of over dosing the fuel with oil will work to fog the engine. I don’t use that method because you can fowl the spark plug and I have also seen 2 stroke carbs gummed up with excessive amounts of oil causing them not to run. Most of the time the gas evaporated from the carb and then refill and the oil doesn’t evaporate and your left with a mess. The bottom end already has enough protection for short term storage. You could save alot time by just pulling the plug and giving a quick squid. With the method I use it’s ready to go on the fall just start it up and your good to go.
-
Eskimo say's the reason the grommets dry out and leak is because of storing them empty. They said to store it full of fuel to keep that grommet from drying out.
-
I didn't mean to run and leave dry.i run fuel out to remove and inspect the lines.
If they show no signs of replacement, I squirt with a lubricant and reinstall. If cracked , soft or look bad, replacing with new is easier now then when you want it to work.
I couldn't tell you how many weedwackers, boat motors and log splitters where the biggest problem was fuel lines that had fuel in them but dry rotted the gaskets and rubber
-
the ethanol in the fuel doesn’t help with the cracking. Seem like too much work to check a fuel like. If it’s coming off a new one is going on. Use a good fuel treatment and if it’s a 2 stroke use quality oil. That will also help extend your fuel line life. ;D
-
Ethanol doesn't play well with rubber or vinyl. Most stock fuel lines are vinyl (worst choice). My fuel line replacements are always Tygon and it seems they last almost forever. Because we can't get regular non-e here I also always use a fuel treatment. SeaFoam, Stabil (in their myriad incarnations), Startron etc. All effective but each offers something a bit different from the rest so I like to rotate.
As far as the oil dosing for storage it's a good rule of thumb (an cheap insurance) to replace the spark plug each season so fouling is not an issue. Fuel with a good additive will keep the carb clear of off season gunk.
Just my experiences...
-
Most of the newer units are safe to run 10% ethanol without any issues. It’s the older stuff that gets eaten up. If you cant get non ethanol fuel you can buy the premixed cans online. Costs a bit more but you don’t use that much per season anyway .vp fuels also sells a small Engine blend of synthetic fuel
-
I'd rather pull a hose off to check and lubricate now then to discover its junk later only doing nothing but adding a stabilizer and hope it good.
Most cases on small engine troubles are discovered pulling them out of storage .
As you say, prevention. Why not check and , lubricate hoses and clamps. Its a 5 min deal. If they are good , reinstall. Most are not so now is the chance to replace
-
Lol I guess you still didn’t watch the video. You can check the lines without pulling them off. Running the fuel system Dry for storage is never a good idea.
-
Gas line you buy off the shelf does not have fuel in them. They have a lubricant.
They also have a manafacturs date stamp.
Once you put fuel to them , there is a deterioration process happening.
I'm not saying you can bring old lines back to life but you can prolong the damage by using an oil base lubricant instead of an agent as gasoline.
Your quite right as to pre ethonl fuel lines.
My 1989 4.3 merc. Had to have all lines replaced to ethonl approved.
As for performance, I think it matters less when it's a frequently used engine.
$5.00 worth non ethonl won't break me on a gas auger but not necessarily.
By the time you fill the gas can with a gallon, you most likely got the last users gas anyway.
I typically use the gasoline I use most in all my equipment and vehicles. My atv will run through 6-9 gallons of ethonl a season. My used to be gas auger , about a gallon so it made no since to keep storage fuel. Use it or dump it
-
I have 100s of feet of fuel like on the shelf. And none of it is lubed. They don’t have fuel because they are new....removing the fuel like to spray oil in it isn’t going to do anything other the possible damage from removing it and reinstalling it. As for performance if your engine is built to run on. Non eth it will hinder the performance if you run an ethanol blend. That’s a fact. Ethanol fuel also doesn’t have the shelf life of non ethanol. It also will promote moisture in fuel. If you go to a fuel pump that’s only non ethanol fuel who cares if it’s the “ last users “ fuel
-
Your saying new rubber hoses, belts or tires are not treated , ok.
-
I have wa wall full of belts that are not oiled. They would slip. All the fuel lines I have come dry. I normally have to add lube to slip them on. Tires might have a coating from its mold.
-
FT Not sure who taught you that oil drops out of the gas in the c/case, but that is wrong, Your fuel mix coats everything and the rest is go power and out the exhaust, if it did every 2 stroke would seize. The problem with what you are trying to do with your video, ( didn't watch) is what works in your location with gasoline doesn't mean it will work in mine. Ethanol fuel doesnt care if it is burning in old engines or new, it is the storage and handling that makes all the differance, but we are on the same page it is no good for anything that is sporadically used. Some old equipment had fuel lines and carb parts that did not tolerate ethanol, But most of that has had to have been changed by this time. I have been doing your job since early 70's and went through gasahol that if it drew any moisture it ate through aluminum magnesium fuel tanks in a short time.
I have been through STIHL'S factory in the US and in Germany and every unit is run at the end of the assy line and then run out of fuel, and I know of units that sat for years and never had a grommet or fuel line rot out in storage. Most of our fuel problems come from the inferior china recipes for rubber parts and ethanol. One of my Customers whose company has the Chinese make rubber components for them said they will leave out some key ingredients and tell them they saved them some money all the while this is stuff for just in time assy in the USA and it took 3 mos to get here, do you think they are not going to assemble and hope it all doesn't go bad during warranty period or shut down the assy lines 'til they get good material.
I wish you well in trying to make videos to educate but there are too many variables, and too many experts who have not shot themselves in the foot yet with their fuel and when it happens it will be something other that caused it. AOI will be on here next to tell you that ethanol has nothing to do with running or storage issues. Please don't take this as criticism of your knowledge but as mechanics we can fix the equipment but changing bad habits has to cost our customers money before change will happen for most. We educate on every new sale and then cross our fingers.
-
Lol your post was pretty funny .you should really learn how a 2 stroke engine works before making a foolish comment. In Engine factories they will use a high quality fully synthetic fuel to test an engine. ( like vp racing fuels ) you can drain that fuel successfully because it’s high quality and extremely longer shelf life. They probably also have a method of flushing the fuel system. They sent just dumping the fuel tank and boxing it . They aren’t using a cheap fuel with 10% ethanol in it . You really have no clue what your talking about and almost every point you made is wrong.
Make sure to study your facts before you bash someone on a post
-
Please cite what manual tells you that the oil drops out of the gas in the crankcase, I never tell anyone of my certificates because they are only paper and most are poorly administered, my 14yr old son was a test taking tech and had all of your equivalents when honda started their system of testing.
Please look at the animation, and read it carefully no where does it say oil is dropped out of the fuel. http://www.animatedengines.com/twostroke.html If the oil separated where does it accumulate ??? Again your info is only good if everything is followed exactly today, tomorrow our fuel will change or has already and will cause someone problems, The simple answer is store it where it is dry run Stihl Motomix or equivalent if it 4 cycle, squirt some oil in the cylinder and you will have no restart issues that were not already there, all of this info is golden.
-
My company also does winterization on boats and shrink wrapping. The main reason why 2 strokes will seize up during storage is because exhaust port leaves the piston and cylinder exposed to the air. And that can bring moisture from the airs humidity into the engine.
.. EXACTLY.. 2 stroke engines should be stored ( when possible).. pickled with the piston [email protected] close off intake and exhaust ports...
also a fan of wet storage.. been a small engine /marine mechanic for over 40 years... it didn't used to be that way but times force changes..People get away with "things" until one day they don't get away with it anymore..it makes me a lot of money.
FWIW... grease actually breaks down hardened steel ( this is why spring manufacturers advise against greasing leaf springs)..oil is a better choice...
-
Hey Rocco’s. Finally someone who knows what they are talking about ! So your not going to slather your auger in gear oil and grease. per tunas specs lol.
-
Never said slather. Those were your words.
I work for a multi billion dollar company that has lubrication technicians that use the most advanced products in the world.
My 8 million dollar warehouse is filled with thousands of belts , hoses and bearings. I can tell you. , every single 1 is treated from the manafacturs for storage.
Maybe not in the sense you perceive as oil , but a lubricant and uv protection is applied.if they sit on a shelf untreated they dry rot .
-
Hot tunas response to what to protect auger against corrosion-“, wipe them down with a gear oil, or synthetic grease.
It's messy yes ”
Looks like your not one of them of them fancy lubricant techs lol.
And we aren’t when talking about hoses belts bearings or any of your other wearhouse stock. We are talking about small Engine fuel lines. And mine always come dry. Your getting so off , your response has nothing to do with the post.
-
Lol big surprise another thread with FT has turned into an argument. Someone might be a bit to impressed with themselves.
(https://s10.postimg.cc/w66wfs3lx/A317_D957-4_DFB-4_BB3-809_D-_F2_CF33961_BB2-3912-00000348_EDA1971_D.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/w66wfs3lx/)
-
Tuna always always tries to hi jack all my posts with his nonsense. It’s just what he does. For some reason he feels like he has to change me. You guys always have to be haters. If you post nonsense I’ll call it out. It’s not my fault people post without knowing what they are talking about. You guys are the ones always posting negative comments. I just state facts. Sorry if that crushes your heart
-
Tuna always always tries to hi jack all my posts with his nonsense. It’s just what he does. For some reason he feels like he has to change me. You guys always have to be haters. If you post nonsense I’ll call it out. It’s not my fault people post without knowing what they are talking about. You guys are the ones always posting negative comments. I just state facts. Sorry if that crushes your heart
(https://s10.postimg.cc/h00uoxlbp/2_A049748-30_FE-494_E-_A957-_D1_BEBFA761_D0-3972-0000034_F4107_AD33.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/h00uoxlbp/)
(https://s10.postimg.cc/w66wfs3lx/A317_D957-4_DFB-4_BB3-809_D-_F2_CF33961_BB2-3912-00000348_EDA1971_D.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/w66wfs3lx/)
-
Lol I love how jealous you guys get. You hate the content But can’t keep your eyes off it ! I’ll take it as a compliment, thanks. You guys are like my groupies. I always know you’ll be a part of my post.
-
It's because you are so epic!!!!! Lmao
(https://s10.postimg.cc/w66wfs3lx/A317_D957-4_DFB-4_BB3-809_D-_F2_CF33961_BB2-3912-00000348_EDA1971_D.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/w66wfs3lx/)
-
It’s ok. I’ll allow you to be one of our groupies. Maybe I’ll give you a shout out in our next video ! I’ll even give you a free epic upstate sticker for your sled then you’ll feel like part of the crew and won’t feel so left out.
-
That would be so epic bro lmao
(https://s10.postimg.cc/w66wfs3lx/A317_D957-4_DFB-4_BB3-809_D-_F2_CF33961_BB2-3912-00000348_EDA1971_D.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/w66wfs3lx/)
-
(https://s10.postimg.cc/w66wfs3lx/A317_D957-4_DFB-4_BB3-809_D-_F2_CF33961_BB2-3912-00000348_EDA1971_D.gif) (https://postimg.cc/image/w66wfs3lx/)
(https://s18.postimg.cc/lfk1f1e6d/DA17_A5_D8-67_A4-4_A10-8_A47-45104_EA18_D78.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lfk1f1e6d/)
I know you deleted the photo after you posted it but I saved it !
-
(https://s18.postimg.cc/lfk1f1e6d/DA17_A5_D8-67_A4-4_A10-8_A47-45104_EA18_D78.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lfk1f1e6d/)
I know you deleted the photo after you posted it but I saved it !
Wow someone is a fan saving pics of me lol.
-
I always save our fan mail out of respect for our viewers!
-
I don't know that seems like some epic stalker stuff
-
I'm not taking credits to how the YouTube works. That's all on you.
I agreed wholeheartedly about maintenance and storage.
You disagree about my suggestions, wholeheartedly.
So what's your point man.
-
Epic... Gimme a minute.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4ss2qdvxf/jiffy-pop-finale-o_zpsb8nclwzs.gif) (https://postimages.org/)