Attracting Pike with glitz or basic rigs

[nysurvivorman]

Hello everyone, I have read the many different opinions on using fluorocarbon vs. metal leaders on tip-ups for pike. When I tied my pike tip ups this year I used both. On some tipups I used  fluoro (about 2 feet) attached to a quick strike rig I bought and on other tip ups I used 8 inch black wire leaders attached to single treble and others to quick strike rigs. My question is 1) Should I use red beads and small shiny blades to make these rigs more attractant to pike or do you find that just a basic rig (braided line to fluoro or a wire leader to a basic treble hook) has been just as successful for you when fishing for pike? Some of my rigs are really glitzy while others are basic. Your experience and wisdom would be appreciated.       

[Ace94mp]

I have heard a few different schools of thought on the 'glitz':

-In some jurisdictions it is required to have a 'lure' on a dead bait rig, so you will see some affixed with spinners or other additions.

-It helps with the attraction, RE: flash.


Personally, I have never seen 'more' fish caught than not with a rig with affixed flash or red beads.  Not to say it doesn't work, I've just never seen it.

[thomasthepikehunter]

Unfortunately this is one of those things that changes on a day to day basis. I'd say a blade almost never hurts. I like a nice big one for single hook rigs, and 2 smaller ones for quick strike rigs. It may be a good idea to have quick change clevises on your rigs. The general rule is shiny on clear days, and bright on cloudy days. The best all around is probably a red/white spinner with a nickel back. I rig all mine with those, but also have all nickel ones, and all orange ones for very clear, or very murky water.

[Whopper Stopper]

How stained is the water you fish in?

If the water is dark, I like to go with flash but more importantly vibration. I like to use bigger spinners (pink is a favorite) and 12+ inch sucker minnows. The vibration seems to be the key.

On clear lakes I tame down the flash a little. I have seen northern spook from the reflection off the ice. I will usually go to a smaller spinner. Different days also call for different measures.

Change things up and dial them in. Good luck this winter!

            WS

[nysurvivorman]

Thanks guys for the feedback, really appreciate it. Looks like a bead and blade can only help.

[thomasthepikehunter]

To clarify, I  consider clear water with visibility of 10' or more, stained water about 5', and murky water when you can't see the bottom of your hole.

[nysurvivorman]

Thomas, do you add a split shot at the bottom of the rig to hold the rig down?

[thomasthepikehunter]

I don't use splitshot, but I use weight with all live bait. Deadbait is the only time I don't use any. I have my hook, and about 6" up I use a rubbercore sinker, usually a 1/4oz. I would stay away from alternative metals. Lead is really the only way to go. Bismuth is brittle, and light for its size. The thought that lead damages the environment is California propaganda. Lead is cheap, dense, and soft. It's the perfect material for weights and bullets.

[meatman]

I always use fluorocarbon.  I mix my with and without blades until a pattern appears.  if im fishing dead herring I usually do not have a blade on those unless its on my Clam Arctic warrior set up....then the wind blows the line enough to move the blade.  if im fishing live bait I like a blade on those the minnow will make the spinner blade move enough to attract the toothy critters.  size and color vary day to day. 

[marknicholson]

Dang - Glitz, blades, single hook rigs, big spinners for vibration, red/white spinners with nickel ?  I have a lot of learning to do.  My tip ups have tip up line, a 8 inch leader and a treble hook with a 4-5 inch shiner on it.  If the shiners dies I put on a new one...now I read that the dead ones are fine.  Only been getting in to this the last year or so but lots to learn.

I'm a visual guy....any pictures of your rigs and how they are set up?

[thomasthepikehunter]

If you wait till the weekend, I'll post all the pics you want of my fishing rigs. There is no limit to how much you can know. The only thing for certain is the longer you keep a line in the water, the more fish you will get.

[marknicholson]

THANK YOU!!!  Will be looking for the pics.

[pikemanEd]

Just go fluorocarbon to single hook that's all you need do you really think a old big 20+lb pike is going to see some spinners and beads and want to eat it come on now they didn't get to be 20+lb eating everything they see I say go as natural as posable a big golden or river dace or sucker and no bling !!!!

[MRC2572]

Just go fluorocarbon to single hook that's all you need do you really think a old big 20+lb pike is going to see some spinners and beads and want to eat it come on now they didn't get to be 20+lb eating everything they see I say go as natural as posable a big golden or river dace or sucker and no bling !!!!

  Can't agree more. "Plain Jane" is all you need.

[river_scum]

ill sear by bade on the line above the hook. seen way too much evidence on the ice to disregard it. a rattle would help too. necessary no, more fish yes! i also bait larger than most, 10"suckers or 5" gills.

[thomasthepikehunter]

A regular hook is good for smaller baits, but even with something about 6" I've had trouble. I prefer 8-10" suckers, and I just miss too many fish. I am going more to quick strikes as time goes on, because they are so much better than a single hook. I've had limited success with circle hooks. They work just as well a regular hook, but I don't think it really prevents gut hooks like many say. I have no doubt a blade is almost always better than not.

[pikemanEd]

All I use is 8-12in goldens and 10-18in suckers and fallfish or sea herring that's 12-15in and all I ever use is a single hook on my floro leader and never have problems missing fish but the pike I fish for have no prob fitting bait like that in there mouth with the first bite 

[marknicholson]

Thomasthepikehunter - so the line that you have your glitz on is what exactly?   thanks.

[thomasthepikehunter]

I'll go through both rigs in detail for reference.

First the quick strike. I cut a peice of 50# fluorocarbon or 20# steel leader about 12"-16" long. I then thread a #4 power swivel and a big bead on. I put the swivel in the middle, and thread one end of the leader back through the bead. I pull the ends even, push the bead up to the swivel, and tie a simple over hand knot as close to the bead as possible. I thread a clevis/spinner, and a few beads on one of the ends. I then use a #4 treble hook, I use eagle claw, the 374 is great, and in this case I used a 934 because I wanted a red one. I use a uni knot with fluorocarbon or I use a special twisting and melting method for steel to tie the hook on. I do the same thing on the other side. I try to get both sides equal in length, but its fine if it isn't.

The circle hook is a lot simpler. First I cut a leader about 12"-16" long. I uni knot a #4 power swivel on 50# fluorocarbon or twist/melt 20# steel leader. I thread a clevis/spinner and some beads on and thread the end through the hook point side of the circle hook. I use an 8 turn snell knot for fluorocarbon. For steel I wrap it around the shank, and thread it back through the eye, and twist/melt it. I usually put a a rubber core weight right on the leader. I put the spinner above the weight for lots of clacking, but below it is just fine.

I'll see if I can get some picture of how to tie steel, I its stronger this way, and I like how it looks better. This only works for coated steel, I use Cortland Toothy Critter, and I don't like using crimps. All you do is put it though what you want to tie on, and pull about 1 1/2" extra out. I then use a small vise grips to hold the end to the leader. I take a pliers and grab the thing I want to tie on. I twist it around about 5 times. I then run a lighter over the part to be fused, sweep the flame back and forth. It usually only takes about 10 seconds, stop once it starts smoking. Do not let it catch fire, that ruins the connection. I let it cool for a few seconds and take off the vice grips. I then run the flame over the end that was cover by the grips for a few seconds.

[thomasthepikehunter]

Complete steel quick strike

[marknicholson]

Thomasthepikehunter  Wow....How much to send me one of quick strike rigs?

[thomasthepikehunter]

From what I come up with, they are $1.50-$2.00 each to make, so the shipping might not be worth it. They are incredibly easy to make, and you can find everything at a bait store, or even fleet farm. If you want to buy a rig ready make, I highly recommend Big Tooth Tackle. I have caught quite a few fish on them, and its what I make all my rigs after.

[nysurvivorman]

Thomas, great photos and information. Thanks for sharing. I way you attached the wire without crimping was excellent. When the two rigs (with hooks and blades) meet at the top just before the big barrel swivel how do they mesh together? Are they tied there are melted together? Thanks for sharing all your information. You have provided extremely , detailed info on terminal tackle for pike fishing. thanks       

[marknicholson]

Thanks Thomas....going to be looking around.

[thomasthepikehunter]

on the quick strike, both fluorocarbon and steel are once piece bent into a kind of V shape. I just tie a simple overhand knot to keep the bead and swivel on the top. The bead on top is for looks, but it really makes tying the rest of the rig easier. Its easier to hold on to that bead, than it is to that tiny swivel.

[harrops26]

I've had a lot of success with these bucktail trebeles.