F.O.E.A.O. Eskimo Auger owners Unite !

[Rebelss]

You didn't say "what part" is broken, clutch springs?  Clutch rotor? Clutch pawl?  Clutch parts usually do not break...odd that they would, unless you hit something and really whonked it while it was under load. if the auger is new, that is common until the clutch wears in, not an issue. If it's NOT new, your idle may be set too high. Since Ardisam decided to farm out the entire unit to China 3 years ago, I imagine it could take some time to get a part off of B/O, depends on their status where they are coming from, if they stock a CW, or have to have it shipped from OS. Good luck.

[lefty2053]

I read that if the Blade turns at idle it is an adjustment on the carb. Repair shop might be raking you over the coals. Not that you are paying but he is getting paid either way.

[dbike988]

If the blade turns at idle, either your idle is set too high or the clutch spring failed.  Clutches don't usually have issues but it can happen.  To adjust idle speed, you just loosen the screw on the carb that allows the cable to relax more.

[JimQ]

I was browsing the Eskimo website and a familiar picture caught my eye.  I made the Website! 

No fish, just me and a couple of my boys!

[Kevin23]

Hi everybody, i have a z71 10 inch that was working pretty fine until this little problem, the blade doesnt stop turning when on idle (no throttle). I call eskimo cause shes on warranty and they tell me to  bring the auger to the local eskimo repair shop, 2 week after i call the shop if they had repair it and they tell me its the centrifugal clutch and the part is b/o.

Did this happen to somebody else,is it b/o because it broke often and how much time you guys thinks its going to take before eskimo make the part.
                        Thank you

Look at your throttle cable, follow it to the motor. Where it ends you will see a Philips screw with a spring on it. Start your auger and let it idle. Now turn that screw counter clockwise until the auger is still idling but the bit is not turning. If it bogs down before the bit stops moving then its not the throttle and its the clutch assembly.

[Ray_qc]

Befofe sending her to the repair shop i try to turn the screw to see if it was that, and it make no difference.The guy just told me that he as to order the centrifugal clutch, maybe it was just the spring and he order the whole thing.The auger is about 200 holes old.I cant belive that a new model like this has b/o parts, it suck.

[Ray_qc]

Thanks to eskimo good customer service my problem are solve.

[jwh236]

Hello, we have an Eskimo ice auger hyper coil, we only have had it out 3 times since we got it  and this last time went to start it and the handle came completely off. the knot slipped right through. had to take the coil housing off to get to the end of the rope (I am at mine). now can't get the coil to well...coil and the housing back on..any ideas? Help!

[nwifisherman]

I had that happen about two weeks ago and Eskimo just sent me a new recoil free of charge and I had it within 2 days of emailing them.

[mjmeyer]

Quote from: mjmeyer on February 06, 2014, 12:55:31
I have a question. My does this at least once or twice a trip. I'll drill a dozen holes, the auger is fully warmed up and running great. Then is suddenly stops. I pump the primer bulb and starts right up and runs well again until the next time it happens. It's as if the gas line is coming out of the fuel and sucking air. It happens whether the tank is full or half full. I have watched the fuel line for air and cannot see it happen. I'm thinking of replacing the fuel lines and plunger bulb, but someone here may have an answer. It's just a little annoying.

Sounds like a pinhole starting in the diaphragm, clue is is starts right after you pump it up, signs of fuel starvation, otherwise, I'd lean toward's a bad coil, which is usually evidenced once it heats up and displays weak spark. I'd clean out your carb/diaphragm, on chance you have some crud that is working it's way through the fuel delivery system. That is a high probable in the start/stop situation's that are encountered.

Some new symptoms : Friday I ran the unit and drilled  a dozen holes or more. Saturday we transported it on the front of a four-wheeler in a mount. I usually drag it by hand. I always have it gas tank down so no fuel is against the fuel line and grommet. On the ATV we mounted it sideways muffler side down. After transporting a mile or so, it was very hard to start and when it did run, I could only drill at half choke. After warm up, moving the choke lever to run caused the engine to falter and quit. It would recover if moved to half choke. After drilling and setting the unit down, I noticed a small amount of fuel dripping from the air cleaner. I will wash, dry and re-oil the air cleaner, but I suspect this had to do with the transport. It is stored vertical. Or is this anther sign of a diaphragm problem?
To make matters worse I may have dulled the blades. It advances very slowly through the ice, produces snow instead of chips. This snow packs up behind the blades and it will just spin in the hole. I was drilling through 24+ inches. Maybe even 30 inches. Can I touch up the blades with a sharpening stone (maintaining the angle, of course) while I get a new pair?
So many questions!
Thanks for your patience.
Mike

[lefty2053]

It was flooded. Gas coming from Air cleaner tells you.  Using the Choke to run gets too much fuel in it.

[mjmeyer]

It would only run with any RPM's at half choked.

[stout93]

Need some guidance.

Just bought an Eskimo Mako 10".  Had a heckuva time getting it started right out of the box, probably flooded it.  However, I did eventually get it started and the first two times out it worked flawlessly.  The third time I had it out, it started bogging down as I was moving from hole to hole (no throttle).  It then quit and wouldnt restart, I ended up breaking the pull cord when trying to restart it.  Under warranty so brought it in and got that fixed.

After I got it back, went out and it worked good.  Next time out, it's bogging down as I'm drilling holes, on full throttle. I back off the throttle and it powers back up.  This happened on all the 3 holes I drilled.  I've used the eskimo viper oil and used some seafoam.

Not being mechanically minded, is this a carb problem? getting too much gas?  or what else could it be?  And how would I go about fixing it? What about replacing the factory spark plug as someone mentioned in this thread?  I really dont want to bring it back into the shop if at all possible.

[lefty2053]

Make sure the choke isn't on. As for priming it, only two times should get it going 3 tops.

[nwifisherman]

What spark plug does everyone recomend?  Thinking about changing out my factory plug.

[Rebelss]

Mike, I think ya need a possible carb rebuild...running on choke is a sign of a fuel starvation problem. You could be losing vacuum to pull the fuel into the carb throat, either through a bad diaphragm, or an "air leak" somewhere in the system. A fuel line, carb body gasket seal, somewhere. Overpriming will give you gas in the air filter, as lefty said, but I don't think that's your issue. Taking the choke off lenas out the fuel/air ratio, and if you're just barely getting enough fuel as it is, it will kill or show extreme loss of power. Start at the beginning; check you gas cap....take it off and see what happens. Go from there, in order, check: tank, fuel lines, carb gasket seal, diaphragm, dirty carb....
Good luck, and let us know what happens.

[Rebelss]

What spark plug does everyone recomend?  Thinking about changing out my factory plug.

You can use a Champion CJ8, factory recommended plug, or cross to an NGK BM6A. I like NGK's.
Make sure gap is .030. Check with plug gauge, NOT feeler gauge. Never trust the "pre-gapped" line of crap, that's for kiddies. I've checked many that came at .045 Use some thread lube on it, too, before installing.

[stout93]

To respond back to Lefty.

I flip the choke off as soon as I get it started so that's not the problem.

Any other thoughts on my situation?

[lefty2053]

What spark plug does everyone recomend?  Thinking about changing out my factory plug.

What ever the manual for your auger states. Which auger is this again? Go to Geteskimo.com pick your auger and then download the manual if you don't have it. I am using the plug that came with my auger 4 years ago.

[jopes]

To respond back to Lefty.

I flip the choke off as soon as I get it started so that's not the problem.

Any other thoughts on my situation?

I always turned my choke off on my Z71 but the vibration of the engine would start to close the choke again.  I now leave a hair tie on it.  and hold the choke down with my finger once it starts I can let go and the hair tie will keep the choke opened.

Mine was doing the same thing as your mako is.

[lefty2053]

Pretty sure the choke in the up position is the off position. I never ever use my choke on my Z51. 2 or 3 primes at best and she fires up first pull. I am on my 4th year now and haven't changed the Plug or filters yet.

[Shane young]

Just bought my first power auger on Saturday.  Stingray s33. Drilled 30 holes yesterday. I love it. My boy does too. He took it and drilled his own hole to jig in.

[stout93]

So are you saying I should keep the choke open or slightly open while running my auger? 

My issue is that it's bogging down or sputtering when I've got the trottle on full and drilling holes.  To the novice, which is me, it seems like it's not getting enough gas.  Which I guess keeping the choke open would solve???

I guess everything I've read is to keep the choke off/closed...

[Rebelss]

Keeping the auger "choked" means the "choke" in ON, choke "OFF", is the same as "RUN" position. When the butterfly plate is blocking your carb throat, that is "ON". Choke "OFF" is when the plate is parallel with the carb walls, aka "RUN" position.

[lefty2053]

Turn off the choke.
First clean your plug and filter. Prime a couple of times and then start it. No choke needed if it is fairly new and has been inside a vechile. If it rode to the lake in the back of a truck you might need the choke. But once it starts and runs for a few seconds turn it to RUN .

[Kevin23]

Also be sure to prime one at a time. With my mako it will start with one prime every time. Choke off, one prime, one pull of the cord and it starts. I flooded mine once because I read online it takes 2-3 primes. 3 primes flooded it and it ran like crap all day.

I also like the hair tie idea. I noticed yesterday that my choke lever jumps down about 1/2" as soon as I open the throttle up. I'm going to steal that idea.

[Idahogator]

Also be sure to prime one at a time..

What does that mean ?          


Here we have another comment from the genius of all topics except English, grammar, spelling, clairty and common sense!    We'll all be so much better if you would kindly butt out !    Thanking you in advance for compliance with this wide spread request !

Is it not obvious, he only has 1 ( one ) auger.       

[cold_feet]

So are you saying I should keep the choke open or slightly open while running my auger? 

My issue is that it's bogging down or sputtering when I've got the trottle on full and drilling holes.  To the novice, which is me, it seems like it's not getting enough gas.  Which I guess keeping the choke open would solve???

I guess everything I've read is to keep the choke off/closed...

When  you cold start the auger you choke the carb. Once the engine is running slip it to half way to warm up without drilling holes then you should be able to turn off or open the choke and at that point be able to open the throttle and begin drilling holes. At no time while you are drilling holes or beyond warm up should the choke be closed or half open to force the engine to run smooth and with power. If this is the only way this engine runs you are in need of carb work.  If this auger has adjustment screws  adjust screws to richen the mixture on the high speed if no adjustment screws you most likely are seeing a gunked carb in need of a scrubbing and rebuilding.  Also this might not cure your problem 100% simply because you rebuilt the carb at times these carbs are just junk and need replacement. In your own words you are not mechanically inclined to tackle such a task in my opinion pay a mechanic to rebuild it.   

[stout93]

Thanks for the responses.

It's a brand new auger, only been out 4 times, drilled no more than 20 holes, have a hard time believing the carb is gummed up already..

[Mricefish20]

What is the spark plug socket size? For my mako