F.O.E.A.O. Eskimo Auger owners Unite !

[Sinnian]

The most common causes are the tank its self (new style tank available to correct this) or the tank grommet for the fuel line.  Have a look.

Q

FALSE! 

The most common cause is priming it when the choke is "On".  When this is done, no fuel is getting into the carb, but rather soaking up in the air filter.  Over time it leaches back out and "looks" as though the auger is leaking gas.

PRIME with the choke "OFF", then put it "ON" and pull to start.

In the meantime ~ take out your air filter and fry it out as best as possible with paper towels, etc.

(I should just copy and paste this, and put it somewhere safe for next week, and the week after....    )

[finchasr]

First off, thanks Sinnian for the tip on the choke/priming process, as I also have been having gas dripping issues. Hopefully that will solve that problem, as I have already replaced the tank on my 4 year old mako in the first year (under warranty). Anyway,  I'm wondering if anyone knows how to remove the center point to give it a touch up honing. I removed the bolt and expected it to pretty much pull right out but the plastic insert seems to be in there pretty tight. Is there a trick to getting it out? I've already touched up and reinstalled the blades, so I'm hoping I won't have to remove them again to get it out.

[dbike988]

Pliers seem to do the trick.  You'll have to pull the blades off too though as they get in the way of the plastic insert coming out.

[finchasr]

Pliers seem to do the trick.  You'll have to pull the blades off too though as they get in the way of the plastic insert coming out.

Yea I tried pliers but no go. I've actually checked the manual since my initial post (duh!) and they're saying to use vise grips but I don't intend to replace the point, just touch it up a bit and I have a feeling that vise grips may jack it up to the point where I will have to replace it. I may just try to hone it on the auger.

[dbike988]

Yea I tried pliers but no go. I've actually checked the manual since my initial post (duh!) and they're saying to use vise grips but I don't intend to replace the point, just touch it up a bit and I have a feeling that vise grips may jack it up to the point where I will have to replace it. I may just try to hone it on the auger.

Just be sure to grab it on the flat sides so that it doesn't touch the blade edges and it'll be fine.

[finchasr]

Just be sure to grab it on the flat sides so that it doesn't touch the blade edges and it'll be fine.

Success! Tried some penetrating oil, light taps with a plastic head hammer, still wouldn't budge so I said to myself, self if you can't pull it out why not push it out? Ran a piece of 3/4" conduit through the auger shaft and about 4 taps popped it out. Hope this helps someone else out there in the future. Tight lines and stay on top!

[Icefisher40]

Ok guys.

I'm sure this has all been asked before, but I need some reassurance before I dive head first into my first auger purchase. I'm looking to join the 'MO family.

The model that seems to be intriguing me is the Z51, mainly because I can get it in 8". I drill TONS of holes. (Over 100 holes in a 12 hour period if targeting roaming perch.) Up here in the Yoop, we often get 3'+ of ice like you boys in Minnysoda.

Would the z51 suit my style of fishing? I hear the Z71 is powerful, but a 10" is a little unpractical for my style of fishing.

I'm 20 years old and nervous about dropping some coin on an auger, so I would like to hear some personal opinions of some of you faithful Eskimo owners.

Once again I apologize if all of this has been asked before, but I'm a desperate man caught between a rock and a hard place.

[Mricefish20]

Has anyone had experience shipping out there eskimo blades to get sharpened? There is no where local enough for me to make the trip somewhere it would be cheaper fr new ones. Does anyone know if you can send the point in to get sharpened with your blades I looked into a couple places online  and didn't see anything about the points just blades thanks all!

[lefty2053]

I bought my Z51 with the 10" and the first year using it I was dropping threw 40" of ice. The power head was on top the ice before going threw. I ended up buying an 8" bit 2 years ago and it drills a lot faster with that. I also sharpen my own blades or at least touch them up every other trip out. It is easy to do and takes a few minutes. I just use a cheap old fine stone go over the blades at the correct angle and then touch up the back side a couple of times.
My Auger starts on the very first pull every time. I have had it 4 years now.

[Kevin23]

First off, thanks Sinnian for the tip on the choke/priming process

It took me 5 or 6 trips and about a week of starting it in the garage to figure out my auger's process. With my mako 43 its choke to run, one prime, choke  to on and one pull. Otherwise its 3-4 pulls with no prime to start it cold.

When on the ice, switch off and choke ON, handle down fuel tank up. I've had it sit a couple hours so far and it always starts with one pull. I move the choke to RUN before starting, I rarely have to choke it.

All other combinations of choke, primes, laying the auger, etc resulted in multiple pulls. Also changing the factory plug to a brand spanking new NGK BM6A helped a bunch. Starts with HALF a pull almost every time now, but I still consider it one pull.

[Kevin23]

Ok guys.

I'm sure this has all been asked before, but I need some reassurance before I dive head first into my first auger purchase. I'm looking to join the 'MO family.

The model that seems to be intriguing me is the Z51, mainly because I can get it in 8". I drill TONS of holes. (Over 100 holes in a 12 hour period if targeting roaming perch.) Up here in the Yoop, we often get 3'+ of ice like you boys in Minnysoda.

Would the z51 suit my style of fishing? I hear the Z71 is powerful, but a 10" is a little unpractical for my style of fishing.

I'm 20 years old and nervous about dropping some coin on an auger, so I would like to hear some personal opinions of some of you faithful Eskimo owners.

Once again I apologize if all of this has been asked before, but I'm a desperate man caught between a rock and a hard place.

I think you would be very happy with the z51. I have the mako m43 8" and it drills like a hot knife through butter. You will love the extra power of the z51, I would have bought one if I could afford it! Actually if money was no object I would have bought the z71 and a strikemaster 6" bit for it. Talk about fast drilling 

So far the most I've drilled through is about 20", which is a lot of ice for around here. The mako never skipped a beat and never bogged down, went through it in about 9-10 seconds.

[Sinnian]

I have the z51 with the 10" and it is fast going through the ice.  You would do very well with the 8".  That said, if you are running and gunning that often to drill 100 holes in 12 hours ~ I would buy an 8" Nils with a Tannaka motor.

ALSO ~ if you are running and gunning, wouldn't 6" be more efficient?  You're obviously not worried about ice build up on the sides, or snow drifts.

[Icefisher40]

I have the z51 with the 10" and it is fast going through the ice.  You would do very well with the 8".  That said, if you are running and gunning that often to drill 100 holes in 12 hours ~ I would buy an 8" Nils with a Tannaka motor.

ALSO ~ if you are running and gunning, wouldn't 6" be more efficient?  You're obviously not worried about ice build up on the sides, or snow drifts.

That's a very good point about the smaller auger size to be more efficient, but I like to mix things up and fish for lake trout at times, so a 6" would be a bit small.

[lefty2053]

2 side by side 6" holes would be more than sufficient.

If your allowed in your state. 10" is max size in Colorado.

[Kevin23]

Went out to the garage yesterday to get something and noticed the thermometer in there said -1º. Just for the hell of it I grabbed the mako and gave it a pull. Choke to run- one prime- choke to off- one pull and she fired right up. Man I love this auger.

[nwifisherman]

I have a new z51 that worked great all season but today when I pulled the handle to start it the rope broke right at the handle.  I took the recoil off at home and can't figure out how to make it work right.  I cant get it to load up the spring and work when put it back on.  Are there any videos on how to do this?  Any tips?

[lefty2053]

You tube has a bunch of info on fixing pull ropes.

[dbike988]

You tube has a bunch of info on fixing pull ropes.

First thing I'd do is call customer service to ask for a new one.

If you want to rebuild it, retie the handle on.  Then pull a loop of rope off of the spool, lock the end of the rope that goes into the spool in the notch on the spool, then spin the spool a few times in the direction it'd go if you were pulling the rope out (like you're trying to start it).

[Kevin23]

Its still under warranty. Tell eskimo and they will send you a new hypercoil. If you are in Wisc (I got north wi fisherman from your username) then you'll have it next day via speedee.

[nwifisherman]

Actually nwi stands for north west iowa.  Anyway, I contacted eskimo and they are sending me a new recoil free via speedee.

[Kevin23]

You'll get it next day. I got my parts next day via speedee.

[mjmeyer]

I'm looking at fishing Clear Lake, Iowa next weekend. Someone made a passing remark that there was 30+ inches of ice. Not sure if it was a measurement or guess, BUT how much ice will my Eskimo Stingray handle before I need to be looking at an extension? It could come to that this year with all of the cold weather.
Thanks,
Mike

[lefty2053]

Measure your bit and that will tell you how much ice it will cut through. I think my Eskimo Z51 has a 42" Bit. Possibly 39".

[mjmeyer]

I went to the Eskimo Website and it says 42", so I'm good for a bit. I know people on here drill through more, but I never have!

[Kevin23]

There is no way in hell clear lake has over 30" of ice. On the 23rd it had 20-23" according to the DNR. Even with the short cold snap, it did not make 7"+ ice in 6 days.

[mjmeyer]

I have a question. My does this at least once or twice a trip. I'll drill a dozen holes, the auger is fully warmed up and running great. Then is suddenly stops. I pump the primer bulb and starts right up and runs well again until the next time it happens. It's as if the gas line is coming out of the fuel and sucking air. It happens whether the tank is full or half full. I have watched the fuel line for air and cannot see it happen. I'm thinking of replacing the fuel lines and plunger bulb, but someone here may have an answer. It's just a little annoying.

[Kevin23]

Does it just cut out and stop or bog down and stop?

[Rebelss]

I have a question. My does this at least once or twice a trip. I'll drill a dozen holes, the auger is fully warmed up and running great. Then is suddenly stops. I pump the primer bulb and starts right up and runs well again until the next time it happens. It's as if the gas line is coming out of the fuel and sucking air. It happens whether the tank is full or half full. I have watched the fuel line for air and cannot see it happen. I'm thinking of replacing the fuel lines and plunger bulb, but someone here may have an answer. It's just a little annoying.

Sounds like a pinhole starting in the diaphragm, clue is is starts right after you pump it up, signs of fuel starvation, otherwise, I'd lean toward's a bad coil, which is usually evidenced once it heats up and displays weak spark. I'd clean out your carb/diaphragm, on chance you have some crud that is working it's way through the fuel delivery system. That is a high probable in the start/stop situation's that are encountered.

[mjmeyer]

Maybe I need to get a carb kit and rebuild it when the season ends. It's about 4 yrs old. Stingray.
Thanks for your help!
 Mike

[Ray_qc]

Hi everybody, i have a z71 10 inch that was working pretty fine until this little problem, the blade doesnt stop turning when on idle (no throttle). I call eskimo cause shes on warranty and they tell me to  bring the auger to the local eskimo repair shop, 2 week after i call the shop if they had repair it and they tell me its the centrifugal clutch and the part is b/o.

Did this happen to somebody else,is it b/o because it broke often and how much time you guys thinks its going to take before eskimo make the part.
                        Thank you