Author Topic: F.O.E.A.O. Eskimo Auger owners Unite ! (Read 363777 times)

mjk67 · « **Reply #2160 on:** Mar 31, 2013, 09:01 AM »

Putting my 10" z51 to rest for the season today. Been 2 good winters, "old" gal...

kevt528 · « **Reply #2161 on:** Oct 12, 2013, 09:54 PM »

What type of spark plugs does everyone suggest using in your MO? Mine came with Champion I believe but I picked up an NGK last year and she seems to be harder to start. I think I will go back to to the Champions.

Idahogator · « **Reply #2162 on:** Oct 12, 2013, 11:40 PM »

Did you just grab one that fit ? Or did you use a cross reference chart ?

Do you use non-ethanol fuel ?

lefty2053 · « **Reply #2163 on:** Oct 13, 2013, 06:52 AM »

Not sure on the plug in mine but I only use non-ethanol fuel. It starts on the first pull every time if I prime it first.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2164 on:** Oct 13, 2013, 07:13 AM »

NGK's seem to do better in 2 strokes, but the Champions will work fine, too. Just make sure you use a GOOD CR chart to get the proper heat range plug. Seen lots of charts that are way off out there. Also, like Lefty said, use non-oxy with a good stabilizer such as Startron.

bhumbert · « **Reply #2165 on:** Oct 15, 2013, 09:11 PM »

I am fixing up an 8600 for a friend of mine. I found one of the springs for the clutch was broken and the lady at ardisam said I need to buy an entire clutch as they don't sell the right springs for this one. There is an arrow on the center part of the clutch with the word off, so I'm leery of using the puller. Is the clutch threaded onto the shaft? If so how do I get it off? Thank you in advance for any help!

kevt528 · « **Reply #2166 on:** Oct 15, 2013, 10:22 PM »

The NGK plug I got from autozone they said it was a match for the Champion that came installed in my MO, I'm not overly confident that it is an exact replacement. I use ethanol free gas along with sea foam and statron and i have been starting it almost every week through out the off season. I went and picked up a couple of the champion plugs so I will try one out and see if it makes a difference. My MO usually starts on the first or second pull but since I put the NGK it has been taking 3 or 4.

Thank you for the responses everyone.

Idahogator · « **Reply #2167 on:** Oct 15, 2013, 10:38 PM »

Quote from: bhumbert on Oct 15, 2013, 09:11 PM

I am fixing up an 8600 for a friend of mine. I found one of the springs for the clutch was broken and the lady at ardisam said I need to buy an entire clutch as they don't sell the right springs for this one. There is an arrow on the center part of the clutch with the word off, so I'm leery of using the puller. Is the clutch threaded onto the shaft? If so how do I get it off? Thank you in advance for any help!

Welcome to Iceshanty BHumbert.

If you would like to download a file here's a link: http://www.geteskimo.com/foundations/store/downloadcenter/kb_results.asp?type=category

Rebelss · « **Reply #2168 on:** Oct 16, 2013, 08:41 AM »

Quote from: kevt528 on Oct 15, 2013, 10:22 PM

The NGK plug I got from autozone they said it was a match for the Champion that came installed in my MO, I'm not overly confident that it is an exact replacement. I use ethanol free gas along with sea foam and statron and i have been starting it almost every week through out the off season. I went and picked up a couple of the champion plugs so I will try one out and see if it makes a difference. My MO usually starts on the first or second pull but since I put the NGK it has been taking 3 or 4.

Thank you for the responses everyone.

The NGK plug most 'Mo's use is the BM6A. Gap should be .028, check that; makes a big difference in starting if too narrow. Basic rule of thumb is a wider gap will give better starting and idling; narrower will do better at higher RPM's.

lefty2053 · « **Reply #2169 on:** Oct 16, 2013, 12:12 PM »

Thanks Rebelss, I will have to put that in my book. Oh wait I don't have a book. I know I will never remember it but that is some good sound advice. My auger runs great as is so far. I will type your info up and save it my documents just in case.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2170 on:** Oct 16, 2013, 12:19 PM »

Welcome, Lefty! Hint: Permanent marker like a "Sharpie"...write plug info on Auger... like bottom of tank..

lefty2053 · « **Reply #2171 on:** Oct 17, 2013, 06:26 AM »

Already bought an extra Plug when I bought the Auger. I will use the sharpie and write on the plug box the gap I need.

Tomhusker · « **Reply #2172 on:** Oct 18, 2013, 07:44 PM »

Gotta a gas leak on my Shark. 2 years old and leaking. Read somewhere that this is kinda common lately. Ideas anyone?

Rebelss · « **Reply #2173 on:** Oct 18, 2013, 09:17 PM »

Leak from where?

Tomhusker · « **Reply #2174 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 11:27 AM »

I dunno. Can't tell exactly. Was hoping someone could give me an idea where to look. Thanks.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2175 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 11:43 AM »

Well, follow the gas lines back to the tank...check those thoroughly, then the grommet where they enter the tank...that area and along the tank seam is where they usually leak; there's no fix to it other than a new $12 tank kit. Pretty common on the 'Mo's, that seam leak. Mine had it, as have a lot of others. Damned Ethanol crap!!!!

Tomhusker · « **Reply #2176 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 01:38 PM »

Thanks, will check that out. Never run ethanol through it, gotta be something else causing it.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2177 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 01:57 PM »

Good man!!! I've NEVER used the ethanol crap; non-oxy all the way in my small engines. I'll bet it's that seam or tank fuel line grommet, Tom. Let us know what ya find, good luck.

Sinnian · « **Reply #2178 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 06:59 PM »

Quote from: Tomhusker on Oct 18, 2013, 07:44 PM

Gotta a gas leak on my Shark. 2 years old and leaking. Read somewhere that this is kinda common lately. Ideas anyone?

I can almost guarantee it isn't a leak...

Make sure to turn the choke "OFF" before priming, and then put it "ON" to start. Gas builds up in the air filter until it is saturated, and starts to "leak" ~ which isn't really a correct term, more of leach out.

I know this issue from experience

Rebelss · « **Reply #2179 on:** Oct 19, 2013, 07:27 PM »

Overpriming does cause that, doesn't sound like that's his issue, but could be. 1-2 primes are sufficient on these engines. Eskimo had a probelm with the tanks leaking at the seams/grommets for a couple years, aaccording to talks with Eva at Ardisam.

Polekat40 · « **Reply #2180 on:** Oct 21, 2013, 09:22 PM »

I have had my Eskimo auger since about 82 or 82. We were chipping our holes in about 3 foot of ice and I went to Scheels and bought this auger. Still running. Built like a tank. Bought new blades last year. Was surprised could still get parts. If buy a new one will be an Eskimo.

lefty2053 · « **Reply #2181 on:** Oct 22, 2013, 07:35 AM »

So it is safe to say you have had that auger for 31 or 31 years LOL? Just joking with ya. Great to know they can last that long.

kevt528 · « **Reply #2182 on:** Oct 22, 2013, 07:40 PM »

I had the seam leak in my tank last year on my Z-51, It was still under warranty so Eva sent me a new one out got it in 2 days. The new tank was the new style with the new gas cap without the vent. Great customer service when you need it.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2183 on:** Oct 22, 2013, 08:07 PM »

Quote from: kevt528 on Oct 22, 2013, 07:40 PM

I had the seam leak in my tank last year on my Z-51, It was still under warranty so Eva sent me a new one out got it in 2 days. The new tank was the new style with the new gas cap without the vent. Great customer service when you need it.

Good deal! Glad to hear it. Lots of those seam leaks out there.

Polekat40 · « **Reply #2184 on:** Oct 29, 2013, 08:52 PM »

The things has more holes than count. The first weekend we used it dug at least 50 to 100 holes.

JimQ · « **Reply #2185 on:** Nov 18, 2013, 03:16 PM »

My Strikemaster 224 got an Eskimo Viper repower today.

On average, I would replace one composite handle per season. With shipping, it was a $50 fix. Broke twice last season. Seemed to happen in the bed of the pickup. The Eskimo/Viper has a metal handle.

I was also less than impressed with the finicky 2hp Tecumseh. I was always messing with it trying to keep it running right. It didn't really rev either.

This Viper power head was a direct bolt on swap. The direction of rotation is the same Strikemaster. It seems to start and run better that the old Tecumseh and revs to at least twice what the old Tecumseh would do.

Seems like a genuine UPGRADE to me.

Rebelss · « **Reply #2186 on:** Nov 18, 2013, 03:37 PM »

BRAVO!!!!

Now you have 'MO power to drill!!!!

ak-71 · « **Reply #2187 on:** Nov 22, 2013, 12:50 AM »

~~get er done!~~ Way to go.

JimQ · « **Reply #2188 on:** Nov 26, 2013, 08:31 AM »

Quote from: Indie on Nov 23, 2013, 09:56 AM

Very nice Jimq! Ill have to keep that upgrade in mind, was any additional hardware or adjustment needed?

Not a thing. Literally one bolt. Disconnect drill from Strikemaster and attach to Eskimo.

Q

mark4493 · « **Reply #2189 on:** Dec 03, 2013, 12:04 AM »

Just waiting for my brand new z71 to be delivered. I can't wait.

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Author Topic: F.O.E.A.O. Eskimo Auger owners Unite ! (Read 363777 times)