IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Bluegill => Topic started by: blackdogs on Dec 12, 2006, 01:20 PM
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Well, a couple years ago I went through the hassle of changing most of my ice rods over to 1 pound line. I caught a lot of fish.
2 problems I ran into were the line getting caught on the ice and easily breaking(if using my old dead sticks) or the line breaking while trying to get it off the reel of my modern day spinning tackle.(with a bobber stop, the line seems to catch and you have to gently tug on it to get it to come off...)
I just got back from the store and bought 2 packs of line. 1 lb and 3 lb.
I am gonna re-rig again(getting rid of my 4 lb test) and go with 3 lb on most of my rods and 1 lb on only 2 rods(1 old, 1 new)
I am wondering if anyone knows where I can find the smallest of jigs to fish on 1 lb line?
And what can I do to prevent breakage of my 1 lb line?
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Try this...great little lures...
http://www.little-atom.com/stl.htm
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NISID makes some tiny tungsten jigs. Down to .18 grams. I bought some a while ago and they are really tiny. Here's a link--> NISID Tungsten jigs (http://nisid.com/Catalog/default.aspx?Category=Tungsten)
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not trying to be rude, but couldn't a person leave the 4 lb. test line on your reels, add a tiny inline swivel, then a 3' or 4' leader of the 1 lb test line ? it would be easy to remove the leader, 'IF' you decided to fish with heavier line.
fred
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not trying to be rude, but couldn't a person leave the 4 lb. test line on your reels, add a tiny inline swivel, then a 3' or 4' leader of the 1 lb test line ? it would be easy to remove the leader, 'IF' you decided to fish with heavier line.
fred
Itty bitty jigs wont sink if the line is too heavy, plus it kill the jigs action. The light line has as much to do with fishability as it does visability.
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I am wondering if anyone knows where I can find the smallest of jigs to fish on 1 lb line?
And what can I do to prevent breakage of my 1 lb line?
I took a photo of some of my NISID tungsten jigs. These are their 2.5mm and 3mm jigs.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v15/snip911/NISIDjigs.jpg)
The best way to prevent line breakage is have a good reel with a good drag system set lightly. Let the drag scream and you'll be surprised at the fish you can land. Don't try to horse 'em in. Also, check your line frequently right around the jig and retie when you feel any irregularities in the line.
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not trying to be rude, but couldn't a person leave the 4 lb. test line on your reels, add a tiny inline swivel, then a 3' or 4' leader of the 1 lb test line ? it would be easy to remove the leader, 'IF' you decided to fish with heavier line.
fred
Yes, if sed person was willing to give up the action/control over the bait, not to mention the possibility of not seeing bites due to the swivels weight.
I am not willing to do that.
I will rig up 2 rods with 1 lb and the rest with 3 lb. I probably have 6-7 rods that I take with me on each outing. I try to keep what I believe will be the "go to" baits tied to these rods. Then depending on the fishes mood, I can adjust my approach.
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I took a photo of some of my NISID tungsten jigs. These are their 2.5mm and 3mm jigs.
The best way to prevent line breakage is have a good reel with a good drag system set lightly. Let the drag scream and you'll be surprised at the fish you can land. Don't try to horse 'em in. Also, check your line frequently right around the jig and retie when you feel any irregularities in the line.
Thanks for the pic. Do you know what size hook that is? I am looking to get a couple more marmooska jigs in size 16. I believe they are basically the same as the jigs from your pic.
Do you know if anyone makes a size 18 jig??? Also looking for ideas on very small pastic or live bait (see mudworms??? in the bait section if interested...)
As far as breaking the line, I don;t have a problem "playing" fish, my only problem is trying to get frozen 1 lb line to come off the reel in a fashion so that it doesn't break...
Thanks for all the help so far!
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I think the ones I took pictures of are all size 18 hooks. If you look on that page I linked to, it shows the hook size like this - Tungsten S with Eye, #18, 0.18 g. Their tungsten jigs are made using size 14, 16, and 18 hooks.
Some of the best plastics I've used are from little atom. Here's their web page (https://www.just-fish.com/). I've also used their optic jig, but they only go down to size 16.
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If you go to the nisid web page don't overlook the mormyshka {hole in the head } jigs. You have to buy them in a kit 14 or so lures in each kit. These things are great for giving the fish something different, also have some very small sizes.I use them with spring bobbers. "WHEN WE HAVE ICE" which we don't.
Paul
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not trying to be rude, but couldn't a person leave the 4 lb. test line on your reels, add a tiny inline swivel, then a 3' or 4' leader of the 1 lb test line ? it would be easy to remove the leader, 'IF' you decided to fish with heavier line.
fred
I use two Lb. gold, for vis. and then attach about 3 feet of 2 Lb fire line. Works great.
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Using a four pound main line with a swivel will leave the four pound out past the rod guides in turn killing much of the action desired by going to 1# test. One trick for 3/4 # or 1 # test lines is to use the whippiest noodle like rod you can find, like the 24" UL from HT. It only costs about 7.00. Using this type of rod with light line is similar to an employng an 11" rod with 3-4 # test line while fishing for 10-15 # Steelhead in river current. With the right rod you should minimalize line breakage. Every year I end up landing numerous Pike on 1#. These pike are usually the 16 - 24 inch handles, but it's a good example of what a light rod and proper "DRAG" can do for you.
With the proper style rod and real you can shed the spring bobbers. Light line is so sensitive that all you need to watch is how it coils off the last eyelet. The proper rod will bend slightly down even with the tiniest of jigs. Many times the tip will not bob on a bite, but it will rise ever so lightly. SET IT GOOD!
Once you figure the light line game out, you will be hard pressed to use rope for fishing again.
You can buy small jigs from FISKA. I think it is a Swedish or Finish company that exports tournament jigs to the USA. Buy them when you find em cause they can sell out quick and be hard to find.
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none of you light line guys can tell me that 1# test line will last long rubbing on the sides of the hole no matter how smooth it is. gills go round the hole like crazy once hooked. i agree light line is guaranteed more jig action and bites but stronger line then a 1# leader has got to hold up longer then straight 1# line. jmo.
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never had a line rubbed on the sides of the hole even using less than 1LB test line.I've been using thin lines for many years.the worse thing is using main line and leader.The line always will brake in knot place first, not talking about sharp edges of the marmooshkas. try to avoid extra knots.
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none of you light line guys can tell me that 1# test line will last long rubbing on the sides of the hole no matter how smooth it is. gills go round the hole like crazy once hooked. i agree light line is guaranteed more jig action and bites but stronger line then a 1# leader has got to hold up longer then straight 1# line. jmo.
I use strictly 1# - 3/4# on Gills and have never broke off on the edge of the hole. Fighting a bruiser Gill on light line is a different type of fight than that while using four pound ROPE. The rope tugs the Gill up right away and he then whirls around the edge of the hole, not so with light line. I would suggest though that you not switch in mid stream as finesse fishing is not for everyone, just as fishing for double digit Steelies with 4# is not for everyone, some prefer weed wacker lines.
Whatever works for you I would stick with. :tipup:
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Well said R L Ron
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I fish 1 and 2 lb and never break off. Its like the package of line says, "respool often". Using a reel of decent quality cant hurt either.
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I use strictly 1# - 3/4# on Gills and have never broke off on the edge of the hole. Fighting a bruiser Gill on light line is a different type of fight than that while using four pound ROPE. The rope tugs the Gill up right away and he then whirls around the edge of the hole, not so with light line. I would suggest though that you not switch in mid stream as finesse fishing is not for everyone, just as fishing for double digit Steelies with 4# is not for everyone, some prefer weed wacker lines.
Whatever works for you I would stick with. :tipup:
Very good RL :thumbsup:
I use a leader of 1,1.2 or my heavy 1.5# line tied directly to 2# on my reel. Never had a break off due to ice hole. I have caught Pickeral and Bass 2 to 4 lbs. with no problems. I use mico light 9'' to 18'' shack rods. If i'm worried about break-offs i stuff my rod tip down the hole. I use under spin reels with very sliky smooth drags and its really difficult to break the line with this system.
If and when i have a break off its my fault and breaks are right at the knot at the jig.
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I have never used 1 lb test,but use 2,3lb trilene ice with good luck on fussy big bulls and slabs, I my rod of choice is 24 ul St. Croix avid and I might spool up three or four times a year. Check your knot after you start getting a few fish, those little raspy mouths can fray line, and I retied several times a day.
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I like the 1# pole cat mono. If your worried about the ice wearing on your line and being able to see your line. Spool up with stren 4# yellow the tie a leader 4 or 5ft. long of the 1# Pole Cat. This has worked great for me for years.
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i don't use anything heavier than 4 lb and it works fine for me if my jig doesn't sink i put a tiny split shot about 1' above it, leaves the jig it's action and sinks it to the right depth.
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Light lines under 2# test require some TLC. Retie knots at least after/before each trip (I like the polomar, be sure to lubricate line with saliva before tightening the knot) and more often if catching a lot of fish and run the last 3 - 4' of line and the section just ahead of the bail between the thumb and index finger often checking for knicks or knots, if ya find any clip off and retie. Fish with rods with good eyes, no knicks that can abrade lines. Fish with rods rated for 1# test line, usually UL rods, so the rod fights the fish and not the line and a reel with a smooth drag set light.
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Great suggestions and tips Quack. ;)
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I have huge respect for you guy's that have mastered the use of line under 2lb. I just haven't been able to get there yet. 2lb. is still the best I can do. I just get too many break offs mainly when tying on a jig.
:clap: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :clap:
NBG
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Interesting thread that has been going on a while.
One thing I find interesting is that many light line users trust their drag. I back reel on all my light jigging rods. I've never found a drag that worked for me. It is a bit of an art with under 2lb line but it works for me. I also like a noodle rod to protest the line. Too stiff of a rod is a sure way to break you line if the fish takes a fast run.
Tim
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Suggest use HT 36 inches UL Blue Ice Rod is awesome with 1 lbs most time i caught thousand thousand Gills better than 2 lbs, and 4 lbs turned spooking easy... Some time unexpecting Pickerel toothy cut off the tinest line..
icesilentguy
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I have huge respect for you guy's that have mastered the use of line under 2lb. I just haven't been able to get there yet. 2lb. is still the best I can do. I just get too many break offs mainly when tying on a jig.
:clap: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :clap:
NBG
Lobes,
If you are breaking off when tying then there can be a number of issues:
1. Not wetting the knot when closing it up.
2. Using the wrong knot, thus putting too much friction, heat and strain on the line in one area.
3. Old line, or line exposed to prolonged sun. Thin line breaks down and gets brittle much quicker.
4. Many stores do not sell much 1#, so what they do have can be very old and may not have been stored well.
You may want to get your line from a sewing shop. .003 - .005 are good choices. It will range from 3/4 # test to 1.5# or so. If you are able to break the line easily with yor fingers, then it is not good line to use.
Hope this helps.
RL
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Very good RL :thumbsup:
I use a leader of 1,1.2 or my heavy 1.5# line tied directly to 2# on my reel. Never had a break off due to ice hole. I have caught Pickeral and Bass 2 to 4 lbs. with no problems. I use mico light 9'' to 18'' shack rods. If i'm worried about break-offs i stuff my rod tip down the hole. I use under spin reels with very sliky smooth drags and its really difficult to break the line with this system.
If and when i have a break off its my fault and breaks are right at the knot at the jig.
I just reposted this a year later if anyone ??? didn't see it before.
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1 lb isn't that hard to get used to with the tips given here. 12oz and even 8oz tippets aren't as easy but still end up having to do it more often than I want too, but if you want fish you have to at times. Still use a high quality, super thin, 3 lb main line and tie in a foot or 2 of fly fishing tippet material on with a double surgeons knot. Main line handles the rubbing on the hole sides well but still presents a very light approach. More of it has to do with the rod and its sensitivity and how well you can keep yourself from overly horsing the fish in. Landed a 17" largemouth on 12oz line and a #20 hook last year, took forever but did do it.
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Swift, your right about the rod for sure. Smooth drag needed as well. The Bass below were landed on 1#, and normally land 2-3 Pike a year in the 23-29" class on one pound. Bass from 2-5#s each year as well. Note the size of the Bass compared to the milk crate next to it :tipup:
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u61/RLWagner/0304071125.jpg)
(http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u61/RLWagner/0304071124.jpg)
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Nice Bass. One thing many don't do is to make sure all remnants of paint are out of the eye and don't wrench a clinch knot down on it. Let mine hang in a small loop, better action and less stress on the line. Have learned to back reel over the years, one drop of water frozen in the wrong place can cost you with even a great drag. Thankfully only top notch manufacturers make tiny jigs, quality ultra sharp fine hooks is essential. Pinching the barbs doesn't hurt either, easier penatration and let their pulling keep tension.
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I have switched to 1 lb line on my spinning reels exclusively. You'd be surprised how much a UL rod has to bend before the line will break. I do put new line on regularly, though.
I fill my ice reels about half full with heavier line. After filling up a bass reel with 10 lb mono in the summer there's always a little left over on the spool, and what good is 20 yds of 10 lb test? I wind that onto my ice reels, partially filling them, so then it won't take nearly as much 1 lb line to fill the reel. This enables me to put fresh line on a reel 3 different times with 1 spool. Instead of putting the full 100-110 yards, it only takes 30-35 yards. It wastes less line and saves me money, all while allowing me to keep more fresh line on my reels.
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I just reposted this a year later if anyone ??? didn't see it before.
Very good piggyn, but all you really need is 1# leader of 4 to 6 feet. Actually I have broken my favroite 9'' Miro rod in 2 pieces using 1# line :o
crappieloo
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If you use a heavier main line you're going to be sacrificing sensitivity, and you can't get your jigs back down as fast.
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You guys have to realize you DO NOT need sensitivity while icefishing!!! You are not casting out and blindly draging a 1/8 or 1/4 oz. jig on the bottom.
'' Sensitivity'' is what sells high priced ice rods to people who think they need them. Sure I use 2 or 3 times heaver main line and it may take .05 of a second to get down there but who cares.
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In order to take full advantage of light line, you need sensitivity. Yes, you can still catch fish with a stout rod, but to keep from snapping your line on the hook set, and to allow the spring action like a noodle rod to take the shock without breaking the line, you need sensitivity.
Also, with these super sensitive rods there is no need for a strike indicator. You instead watch how the last coil of line comes off the leading eye. If it tightens, set the hook, if it loosens, set the hook, if it acts weird, set the hook, when in doubt set the hook.
This tell tale sign is evident way before a stiff rod with a strike indicator can transmit a take. Light line teamed properly with a UL rod will be flimsy enough to make a better strike indicator than an ink pen spring like I use to use.
The proper light rod will enable you to get rid of the heavy 2-4 pound test mainline that is obsolete with a proper drag/rod/light line combo. If you break a rod with one pound, then you did not set the drag properly, or were into the heavy backing you use, this would not have happened most likely with properly matched equipment.
Light line is not for everyone. It takes practice, patience and persistence and matched equipment. But once one becomes proficient in its use, the skyis the limit. Catch rates increase, come quicker and the average size increases bythe ability of light line to nab line shy Gillasauruses or Pannies that do not appreciate the action that is thwarted by heavier line making a jig presentation less than natural.
JMO.
RL
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I need to clarify. First my 2 or 3 lb. goat rope mostly doesnt go more than 1 foot underwater and sometimes never goes under. With a 4 to 5 foot 1# or less leader Is all i need to get down at most times. By ''sensitive'' it means you can sense the fish inhaling the jig. Ya sure not in my shack. The reason for me(and the original question) going to 1# or less was I was not getting any bites with heaver line.
Also my rods are not ''sensitive'' but short ''noodle'' glass rods. I have broke 1 of them off at the handle with1# line and sill got the fish.
Maybe Im doing it wrong but I like the results.
Peace :)
crappieloo
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Peace loo ;) :tipup:
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You guys have to realize you DO NOT need sensitivity while icefishing!!! You are not casting out and blindly draging a 1/8 or 1/4 oz. jig on the bottom.
'' Sensitivity'' is what sells high priced ice rods to people who think they need them. Sure I use 2 or 3 times heaver main line and it may take .05 of a second to get down there but who cares.
??? ??? ???
When sight fishin' I agree ya don't need a sensitive rod just watch 'em suck it in and set the hook. But many waters I fish the Gills are suspended in 20' -35' of water, IMO a good sensitive rod and vigilant line watching are going to get ya more fish while tightlining. I like being able to feel that tiny jig while pounding in 15+ fow, and that litte tap as they suck it in. Not all rods will allow ya to do that. Noodle rods and spring bobbers can be a help a detecting bites with a less sensitive rod, but I have better lure control and feel tightlining with a sensitive rod.
Just my way and you got yours. :)
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??? ??? ???
When sight fishin' I agree ya don't need a sensitive rod just watch 'em suck it in and set the hook. But many waters I fish the Gills are suspended in 20' -35' of water, IMO a good sensitive rod and vigilant line watching are going to get ya more fish while tightlining. I like being able to feel that tiny jig while pounding in 15+ fow, and that litte tap as they suck it in. Not all rods will allow ya to do that. Noodle rods and spring bobbers can be a help a detecting bites with a less sensitive rod, but I have better lure control and feel tightlining with a sensitive rod.
Just my way and you got yours. :)
What I said pertained to my type of fishing because I use mittens alot. Also the subject ''1 lb test line and small jigs for finicky gills'' had a lot to do with it. When using 1# or less I use very small jigs and no matter how ''sensitive'' your rod is you would never ''feel'' the fish take the bait.
The finicky fish are just that,finicky. The jig doesnt have enough weight to load my spring bobber not to mention straighten out the memory coils in my line!! All which are a good thing.If I was to not concentrate on my line and wait to feel the bite I couldn't catch anything.
These are presured fish and very smart it takes alot of work to get them to bite. When they do take it they gentley suck it in and then try to expell it.
Tough huh?
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I have one pound test on both of my jigging poles, and I love it!!!!!! My Gander Mountain special has survived 3 fishing trips catching 300 or better fish without the line breaking (until last week but that was my fault). On my Ice-blues rod i have the 4 pound that came spooled on it as "fill line" and 50 yards of 1LB after that, and that hasn't broke either also catching 300+ fish each time (not keeping them all of course)
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Awesome eh bud!!! I'll never leave home without my ice blues and 1# or sewing thread lines!! ;)
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Awesome eh bud!!! I'll never leave home without my ice blues and 1# or sewing thread lines!! ;)
Ya I love that little rod!!! Does the sewing thread work good??
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Ya I love that little rod!!! Does the sewing thread work good??
Works better than one. Wait till you master one, then carry one rod with it. When one is too heavy or the bite really slows, swith-a-roo. It can snare some of the biggest gills in the system!!! But patience is a virtue withit, and a smooth smooth smooth drag!!
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I have one pound test on both of my jigging poles, and I love it!!!!!! My Gander Mountain special has survived 3 fishing trips catching 300 or better fish without the line breaking (until last week but that was my fault). On my Ice-blues rod i have the 4 pound that came spooled on it as "fill line" and 50 yards of 1LB after that, and that hasn't broke either also catching 300+ fish each time (not keeping them all of course)
gillkiller, your doin it!! Way to go. Thats what it is all about. We also rip those tough bite bulls right up when guys useing goat rope 2#,3# and 4# never get a look. :tipup:
crappieloo
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>:( >:( >:( >:( I was mad this morning, me and the old lady went grociery shopping, so i decided to go to the sporting goods section to see if they had any ice rods left, i got the last one there, but i had to get 2LB for it, i guess it'll have to do for now.
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I also use ice blues and sewing thread. I have it on 2 poles and I have 1# on my other pole. This year I got a 5# largmouth on my 36" iceblue with thread. I love it!
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I've never fished line below 1#; but tying 2# onto 2.5mm Fiskas is enough challenge for me ;D