IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: Ice Surveyor on Jan 08, 2019, 06:14 PM
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I'm sure I'm not the only one out there that has a few batteries that won't take a charge. Apparently, if the battery gets too low to take a charge, the charger will flash red/green continuously. I've had at least 4 that have done that to me, and most of them were not that old. I guess the lithium battery is so depleted that the charger thinks it's shot, and won't charge it. After some youtube research, these batteries can be brought back to life. Today, I purchased two wire leads, a red and a black one. 12 gauge wire. I bought some ring terminals to attach to the end of the wire leads. Take a charged battery, and hook up positive to positive, and negative to negative to the apparent dead battery, and let sit for about 15 minutes. The dead battery will start to warm up, but the battery indicator will still show it's not taking a charge. Unplug the batteries, and see if it will take a charge on the charger. I've done this to two of my old ones, and a 5.0 amp battery has come back to life. The little one, not sure of amps, did not come back. It's worth a shot, but be careful. Youtubers are saying that this operation can start a fire or even explode the batteries. I watched my operation closely, and nothing seemed to be out of whack. Picture attached of how it was done.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBhWjg9D/Battery-recharge.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBhWjg9D)
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I have had this issue with one of my two batteries. I always chalked it up to being cold as i usually put it on charger as soon as i get home. I would just put it over the floor vent to warm it up once heat comes on again. Always worked. Looks like heating the battery works for both scenarios as the potential fix.
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If real cold out, I would warm to room temp before putting on charger
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interesting! how old are they and are they under warranty? they have a 3 year warranty. also, could you take a guess how many cycles they had on them?
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I'm sure I'm not the only one out there that has a few batteries that won't take a charge. Apparently, if the battery gets too low to take a charge, the charger will flash red/green continuously. I've had at least 4 that have done that to me, and most of them were not that old. I guess the lithium battery is so depleted that the charger thinks it's shot, and won't charge it. After some youtube research, these batteries can be brought back to life. Today, I purchased two wire leads, a red and a black one. 12 gauge wire. I bought some ring terminals to attach to the end of the wire leads. Take a charged battery, and hook up positive to positive, and negative to negative to the apparent dead battery, and let sit for about 15 minutes. The dead battery will start to warm up, but the battery indicator will still show it's not taking a charge. Unplug the batteries, and see if it will take a charge on the charger. I've done this to two of my old ones, and a 5.0 amp battery has come back to life. The little one, not sure of amps, did not come back. It's worth a shot, but be careful. Youtubers are saying that this operation can start a fire or even explode the batteries. I watched my operation closely, and nothing seemed to be out of whack. Picture attached of how it was done.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBhWjg9D/Battery-recharge.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBhWjg9D)
Seriously if its flashing red/green or some other color it means something is wrong!
Do not jump lithium-ion batteries unless your ready for the fire!!!!
I have seen first hand what happens and it's usually not pretty.
Do a search for lithium-ion thermal runaway.
By the way when or if they start on fire it's nearly impossible to put them out.
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Put a little saliva on the 2 spots of the battery where it makes contact with charger. This actually works to get battery charging again
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I had a 28V go bad on me,tried jumping it really quick with a car battery.(tap it quickly)NOT ADVISED!!! IT CAN EXPLODE!!!! When they go bad they go bad. Just buy another and make sure it's milwaukee brand the cheap one suck.
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and what ever you do, don't breath the toxic smoke! maybe a pot with a lid to keep it in and take it out with the lid on to try to contain the smoke and fire.
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Man do NOT do that! If it starts on fire you are not putting it out. Its going to spit sparks and flame everywhere, and if you get water on the insides trying to put it out, it will literally explode.
Toss the batteries or turn them in for warranty replacement. Not worth it.
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Fwiw i did have a ryobi battery go completely dead once (left it on the charger and unplugged the charger for a long time). Luckily I had an old nicad charger that apparently didn't have the low voltage cutoff because it took enough of a surface charge that the lithium charger would charge it.
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Like others have said, warm the batteries to room temperature before charging them.
Also do NOT run ANY battery down to its last volt by doing the stop/start/stop/start thing - you're damaging that battery and it may not charge again. When a battery slows down or stops, STOP USING IT, and change to another one.
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Where are all the chest thumping Milwaukee trolls that are so certain that paying more for the same thing ensures a lifetime of bliss with their drills? ::)
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Where are all the chest thumping Milwaukee trolls that are so certain that paying more for the same thing ensures a lifetime of bliss with their drills? ::)
???
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"You get what you pay for" that was you, right swnoel? I'm sure Shack Man Shoney will be checking in shortly too.
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Man, we need some ice... ::)
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sounds more like forgetting to charge them during the off season...best way to ruin any battery... ;-)
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I have seen this a few time with different brands. One trick that I have used that has worked is to put the battery on the charger without the charger being plugged in. Then, plug the charger in. For some reason the charger seems to have a boost of power when first plugging it in that it normally does not when you just put a battery on. No guarantees, but like I say it has worked for me. Good luck!
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Where are all the chest thumping Milwaukee trolls that are so certain that paying more for the same thing ensures a lifetime of bliss with their drills? ::)
Talking down on someone because they are proud to own something they worked hard to buy... What a tool
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Where are all the chest thumping Milwaukee trolls that are so certain that paying more for the same thing ensures a lifetime of bliss with their drills? ::)
Looks like the only one “trolling” here is you! ::)
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I'm sure I'm not the only one out there that has a few batteries that won't take a charge. I've had at least 4 that have done that to me, and most of them were not that old.
Based on Ice Surveyor's repeated issues, I'd suspect a bad charger, or maybe a tool is somehow over-draining the batteries? 4 bad newish batteries sounds less likely than 1 bad charger.
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Based on Ice Surveyor's repeated issues, I'd suspect a bad charger, or maybe a tool is somehow over-draining the batteries? 4 bad newish batteries sounds less likely than 1 bad charger.
I think you might be right. I use my milwaukee tools year round, not just for ice fishing. I noticed an impact driver that seems to keep the light on when not in use. Those were probably the batteries that were drained completely, and would not take a charge. I now take every battery off the tool when in storage. I have 4 different chargers from all the tools and batteries bought over the last 3 years, so probably not a charger issue. I know a couple batteries went dead in the heat of the summer last year, so it's not a cold issue.
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I think you might be right. I use my milwaukee tools year round, not just for ice fishing. I noticed an impact driver that seems to keep the light on when not in use. Those were probably the batteries that were drained completely, and would not take a charge. I now take every battery off the tool when in storage. I have 4 different chargers from all the tools and batteries bought over the last 3 years, so probably not a charger issue. I know a couple batteries went dead in the heat of the summer last year, so it's not a cold issue.
You nailed it, gotta remove batteries from the tools these days... some will ghost draw from lights or indicators and ruin your batteries. For instance your impact, the tool itself knows to shut off and not let you use it when the voltage gets below a certain amount, but it won't shut the light off though if it is stuck on.
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Talking down on someone because they are proud to own something they worked hard to buy... What a tool
Odd you didn't get this offended at them trolling the Ridgid posts...
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Not brand bias but I was thinking same thing minnesotapike
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Kevin23 actually made excuses for swnoel's poor reading comprehension skills(or trolling) in the other thread so I just find it curious that now that the shoe is on the other foot he starts taking things personally and getting defensive.
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You nailed it, gotta remove batteries from the tools these days... some will ghost draw from lights or indicators and ruin your batteries. For instance your impact, the tool itself knows to shut off and not let you use it when the voltage gets below a certain amount, but it won't shut the light off though if it is stuck on.
Wrong - the technology that shuts the M18 battery down is in the battery pack.
FYI - batteries do go bad and they have a recharge cycle life.
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Odd you didn't get this offended at them trolling the Ridgid posts...
I dont read any rigid posts. Dont have either one. And I'm not offended, just pointing out a jerk when I see one.
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Kevin23 actually made excuses for swnoel's poor reading comprehension skills(or trolling) in the other thread so I just find it curious that now that the shoe is on the other foot he starts taking things personally and getting defensive.
The one where he said his fuel and k drill work fine and you get what you pay for? Right after 3300 and a couple others actually said the issue is the rigid drills and I said my wobble issue was due to a strikemaster auger? Seriously?
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The one where people were reporting issues with all brands of drill and auger attached to Clam plates and most people gathered the issue was with the Clam plates and then swnoel replied that he used a Fuel/Clam plate/I forget which auger and said that people "get what they pay for" while being ignorant of the fact that the Clam plate was the issue. It was just kind of funny to people who are capable of reading and following a discussion. You actually posted in the thread several times, a bit odd that you're now denying that you've ever read them...
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The one where people were reporting issues with all brands of drill and auger attached to Clam plates and most people gathered the issue was with the Clam plates and then swnoel replied that he used a Fuel/Clam plate/I forget which auger and said that people "get what they pay for" while being ignorant of the fact that the Clam plate was the issue. It was just kind of funny to people who are capable of reading and following a discussion. You actually posted in the thread several times, a bit odd that you're now denying that you've ever read them...
You talk about reading comprehension and then make that post? I said I dont read the rigid threads.. I don't own a rigid so no need to. I don't own a milwaukee either, so no need to read those... I read this one because I saw "possible jump start" and wanted to throw in my warning against that!
That thread you are referring to was titled "clam plate wobble issue", I remember it. In that thread, if you read my posts, I stated I have issues with two of my strikemaster augers on my plate, and two run perfectly straight. My wobble issue is the auger- not the plate. So don't say the fact is the plate is the issue, it's not for every case. In my case, spending more and getting a K drill would have fixed my issue but luckily I am an auger hoarder and have 4 augers here to choose from- 2 worked. Another guy posted that his plate works with a dewalt drill and not his rigid, his was a rigid fit issue or so he thought. Both of these were at the start of the conversation, so if someone did not want to read all 8 pages- they could have reason to think it was mostly a drill/auger issue and state that their higher end setup works good. His post was that his fuel and k drill work just fine on the plate- you get what you pay for.. it seems some took offense to that and turned to bashing him for spending the money on the higher dollar setup and saying it works.
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Yes that was the thread, my mistake. Doesn't change the fact the guy took a cheapshot and shouldn't get all offended if someone takes one back. Didn't think people would get this defensive over power tools. My apologies for derailing the thread.
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Have bought many batteries for all tools and work in construction. Brand names DO MATTER.
If you don't use it alot,go ahead and buy cheap stuff. Cheap chinese JUNK DOESN'T LAST if your going to use it alot. Been there done that.
mAh's matter when buying batteries.School yourself on Ni-Cd batteries, Good Day
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93cadmium_battery
NOT NiCAD! Lithium is nothing like that. I'm sure there are knock off batteries for the M18 that are cheap and worth what you might pay for them. But NiCAD has nothing to do with it.
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To me it looks like you have the output terminal of one battery hooked up to the output of the other. I think the m18 has input terminal for charging. So try output of good battery to input of bad
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I used a trickle charger to do the jump. It worked.
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Came across this ..cant verify if it works though.