IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Ice Shack Tips => Topic started by: Bean on Sep 02, 2006, 08:04 AM
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For you do-it-yourself'ers, I found a good place to buy UHMW for use as sled wear runners(cheaper than buying Hyfax runners). Just pick the size you need, but remember it is sold in 5 foot intervals. So if you need 4 strips, order 20 feet. I just bought some for my Otter sled and this stuff is slick. I ordered the 1/4" x 1" white. I don't think you'll need anything thicker than 1/4".
UHMW plastic (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23217&catid=868)
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Thx for the link. I might be buy some for both my jetsled and shanty. ;D
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That's what I've got on mine. You should be able to find it localy. I got some scraps for next to nothing.
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i made a toboggin out of i eighth thick construction plastic for my clam works good slides over the snow easy. old ken
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I get my nylon runner material from the local paper mill .They are called "Foil Blades" . Every few months the crews change out these strips off of the fourdrinier(wire) and they are free for the asking .
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What were the shipping costs, Bean?
If the sizes you ordered required motor freight shipping, the costs were not reflected
in the purchase price in the on-line form. You may have purchased some very
expensive plastic. I was just checking myself. It's sold in 5' increments, and
requires motor freight shipping. Granted, the plastic is wonderful stuff,
I put 1/4" x 8" x 9' on my shack. I am looking for some check UHMW for other
projects.
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What were the shipping costs, Bean?
I ordered 20' of 1/4" x 1" and the shipping costs were $7.40. It came in a nice rigid round cardboard tube.
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I ordered 20' of 1/4" x 1" and the shipping costs were $7.40. It came in a nice rigid round cardboard tube.
Excellent!
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I received my order today, in a nice card board tube, and the shipping via UPS wasn't all that bad.
I have a bunch of 5' pieces now just waiting to be used in various projects.
Thanks bean.
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No problem. I think you'll really like those.
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Awesome stuff, something for Christmas maybe. ;)
Now what did you use to screw it to the sled? ???
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Awesome stuff, something for Christmas maybe. ;)
Now what did you use to screw it to the sled? ???
I used stainless steel 3/4" flathead machine screws and nuts. I drilled then tapered the holes in UHMW. I also put strong doublesided tape under the UHMW. I put screws on each end of plastic to make it secure.
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thanks bean :tipup:
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Way to go Bean! UHMW. Cheap shipping. Plus the company is sending me discount coupons asking for more business. Good stuff!
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That's what we're all here for...to learn new things and pass the knowledge around. Glad you like it.
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I also ordered some when Bean posted his original post. Great product and cheap. I haven't decided whether to put them on my Jet sled or wait for my new trap pro.
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Guys great posts but very few things are slipperier than metal on ice (if you look it up in a physics text book metal on ice has one of the lowest coefficients of friction). I have four wood runners on my n-ice shack style shack i built and I coverd them with steel studs. It weight about 260 lbs and I dragged it last year with 2 grown men inside and it was pretty easy. (there was no snow on the ice of course). ;D
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How many pieces did you guys put on the bottom of your shanty(i have a fish trap guide) would 2 be good or should there be another in the middle? :tipup:
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2 would be right for a fish trap guide. You could probably use the 1/4" x 2" or 1/4" x 3". Then order (2) 5 foot sections for 10' total.
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Guys great posts but very few things are slipperier than metal on ice (if you look it up in a physics text book metal on ice has one of the lowest coefficients of friction). I have four wood runners on my n-ice shack style shack i built and I coverd them with steel studs. It weight about 260 lbs and I dragged it last year with 2 grown men inside and it was pretty easy. (there was no snow on the ice of course). ;D
But there are times Esoxice when the shack is not on ice, and is still being dragged/pushed. Like loading/unloading onto a trailer, over frozen ground. Granted the steel would work in those situations,
but I would recommend you order some of this stuff and try it out....If all you do is drag your shack on
clear ice, then it probably won't make a difference. Those steel studs are relatively cheap. Even
if you would have to replace them periodically. Do they tear up your trailer bed?
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I don't drag it on anything but ice. I have it on a very small trailer and I just back it up to the boat launch just like a boat. Two guys lift it onto the ice and away we go. This year I working on putting detachable wheels on it so snow will be less of a problem also it would solve the problem of moving it when not on ice like your saying ;)
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Then you are set!
Hope to read lots of post of great catches, if not of fish, at least of good times.
Cheers,
MD.
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hey bean,
have you pulled your sled through slush with the uhmw plastic?
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hey bean,
have you pulled your sled through slush with the uhmw plastic?
Not yet. We got the snow, but there was a hard crust on top of it where I went yesterday. I did have it on a lake that had powder snow on it, last week. When I drilled a hole, the snow got saturated with water and stuck to the bottom of my otter sled, but it hardly stuck to the runners that I could see.
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thanks let me know if you do pull it through slush and how it does
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Thanks for the link. I will be getting some for my sleds :)
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I got a 6' piece of 1/2" X 2 1/2" Recycled High Density Polyethylene from Mcmaster-Carr for $7.03 plus shipping. The one 6' piece was plenty for the Fish Trap Pro sled it went on.
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Thanks for the posts.
I ordered from McMaster-Carr as well. They were cheaper than US Plastics and could cut to length. I have a Pro and the sled is getting pretty worn.
What size of C'sink and Flat Head Screw did you use?
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I don't recall the countersink bit, but I think I used a 10-32 or 10-24 stainless flathead machine screw. I'm pretty sure I used a 3/4" length screw because I got the 1/4" UHMW.
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I am gonna give this stuff a go on my Voyager. I will need 4 six foot chunks. That is gonna be allot of bolts!
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I was think about the same size, 1/4" for the UHMW and then about .125 for the sled thickness.
Did you use a lockwasher, or a self locking nut with a washer?
I figured better do this while I am replacing the tent on my pro.
I did call Clam Corp and they were out of the runner for the pro until September.
Thanks again,
Rob
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Yes, I did use a lock washer. I haven't had any loosen up on me yet, but if I did it again I would use a self locking nut.
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Mods are done with the runners.
(http://i25.tinypic.com/2cwx3tc.jpg)
(http://i32.tinypic.com/qyej9j.jpg)
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Can someone please update the link I can't find the right plastic on that site.
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Can someone please update the link I can't find the right plastic on that site.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23217&catid=868
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http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23217&catid=868
Thanks a lot.
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I know this thread is really old but hopefully someone can help me with my questions. Are you installing it in the same manner as the Hyfax? That is to say in between the grooves like this: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Frabill-Hyfax-Runner-Kit/1365693.uts?productVariantId=3187048&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03470919&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=59D2CBC7-C014-E211-BA78-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=30640526111&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=57965886431&gclid=CMTE85T_jbsCFWQOOgodOzoAig&gclsrc=aw.ds
The reason I ask is because it looks like most of you used the 1/4" thick plastic but if I install that on my Frabill Deluxe Trekker it will just sit flush with the "runners" that are part of the sled.
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Just installed Frabill hyfax runners on my adventurer ...same base as trekker they were quite thick ...may be 3/4 of an inch . sits well above the sled when installed.
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Hmm how many bars did it come with? I'm wondering if I can just get away with only two. That would make it affordable. If I got to town and get six of them to cover the whole sled in the 3/4" thickness it will come to 105.30 before shipping lol.
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I used to work at a place and we used UHMW on some things. I had some cut out for my sled. Counter sunk some bolts and all I can say is, UHMW is the way to go! It is a lot tougher than the runners you can buy in a store.
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I used to work at a place and we used UHMW on some things. I had some cut out for my sled. Counter sunk some bolts and all I can say is, UHMW is the way to go! It is a lot tougher than the runners you can buy in a store.
I just figured they were made from the same material. That UHMW sure has gone up in price since this thread was created in 2006 lol. Any ideas where to source the stuff locally?
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Hmm how many bars did it come with? I'm wondering if I can just get away with only two. That would make it affordable. If I got to town and get six of them to cover the whole sled in the 3/4" thickness it will come to 105.30 before shipping lol.
4 they fit inside the groves got them here http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/frabill-hyfax-kit-predator-onl.aspx?a=710604
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I know this thread is really old but hopefully someone can help me with my questions. Are you installing it in the same manner as the Hyfax? That is to say in between the grooves like this: http://www.cabelas.com/product/Frabill-Hyfax-Runner-Kit/1365693.uts?productVariantId=3187048&WT.tsrc=CSE&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=03470919&rid=40&channel=GoogleBaseUSA&mr:trackingCode=59D2CBC7-C014-E211-BA78-001B21631C34&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=30640526111&mr:keyword&mr:match&mr:filter=57965886431&gclid=CMTE85T_jbsCFWQOOgodOzoAig&gclsrc=aw.ds
The reason I ask is because it looks like most of you used the 1/4" thick plastic but if I install that on my Frabill Deluxe Trekker it will just sit flush with the "runners" that are part of the sled.
I put these on my otter sled and I did not mount them in the grooves of my sled. Mount them on the part of the sled that rides on the surface of the ice/snow. You won't need more than 1/4" thickness (and 1" wide) for this and can use a minimum of 4 strips.
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I put these on my otter sled and I did not mount them in the grooves of my sled. Mount them on the part of the sled that rides on the surface of the ice/snow. You won't need more than 1/4" thickness (and 1" wide) for this and can use a minimum of 4 strips.
Bean, seeing as you bought them in 2006, how did they hold up? Rare chance to give a long term review. I might end up doing what you did. Glides well over the ice? No weak spots when loaded with weight? Thanks for the heads up on where to buy.
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They're still holding up great. There are lots of scratches and marks on them from dragging over parking lots, gravel roads, and tree branches, but that's to be expected. If I measured them, I'm sure they're still 1/4" thick. They definately helped save the bottom of my sled from more abuse. Well worth the money to protect the sled.
They glide great over the ice. No problems with any weight I've loaded into the sled.
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I used stainless steel 3/4" flathead machine screws and nuts. I drilled then tapered the holes in UHMW. I also put strong doublesided tape under the UHMW. I put screws on each end of plastic to make it secure.
Bean thanks for all your help. I just ordered 4 pieces that I'm going to install. Did you only use two screws on each runner(one on each end) and double sided tape in between? That held up all these years? I was planning on using screws only maybe one every foot for a total of four.
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I'm late to the thread, but why don't you try HDPE? it's durable and the same material used for snowmobile sliders (pretty sure).?
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Bean thanks for all your help. I just ordered 4 pieces that I'm going to install. Did you only use two screws on each runner(one on each end) and double sided tape in between? That held up all these years? I was planning on using screws only maybe one every foot for a total of four.
I just put 2 screws (one at each end) with double sided tape added underneath. The double sided tape has lost its grip over the years and has come loose, but I just haven't gotten around to adding any more screws. I would say that 4 screws would hold each strip down well if you decided on that.
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I'm late to the thread, but why don't you try HDPE? it's durable and the same material used for snowmobile sliders (pretty sure).?
HDPE is a step below UHMW. I just bought enough UHMW for a runner kit 20 feet for $25.65(plus shipping tbd). The hyfax kits are HDPE and from what I've gathered don't last nearly as long.
I just put 2 screws (one at each end) with double sided tape added underneath. The double sided tape has lost its grip over the years and has come loose, but I just haven't gotten around to adding any more screws. I would say that 4 screws would hold each strip down well if you decided on that.
Excellent that's just the info I was looking for. Gonna use 16 machine screws and lock nuts as per your recommendations. Thanks for the DIY info on this thread.
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I wanted to give people some pricing info on the HDPE in case anyone is interested in doing the same thing I did.
As of 12/11/13:
McMaster Carr cost of 16 feet of 1"x 1/4" is $32 and they quoted me $7 shipping to western NY.
I also inquired about 1.25 x 1/4" from them and it came to $37.28 plus $7 shipping.
This would have been my best option, would have cost me $39 total for the 1 inch.
I decided to go with USPlastics because they had yellow and I thought it would look slick on my sled. They only sell 5 foot sections so I bought 20 feet of 1" x 1/4" for $25.65($27 if you don't get quantity discount). Now they quoted me $12-$15 for shipping bring the total to $40.65 but they ripped me off and charged me $23.86 for s&h. Needless to say I wasn't happy and got after them. I sent them the e-mail with the quote and they refunded me $8.86. I would advise you to get a quote in writing before buying from either company so you can call them out if they try to mess with ya.
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great thread. thanks, bean. question - how to put the bend on the front? someone suggested a heat gun. I don't have one. would a hair dryer work?
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great thread. thanks, bean. question - how to put the bend on the front? someone suggested a heat gun. I don't have one. would a hair dryer work?
With the pre cut/drilled Frabill runners I placed them in a 5 gallon bucket of hot water ....worked great ....did during August so with the sled heated from the sun and the runners plyable is was quite easy
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great thread. thanks, bean. question - how to put the bend on the front? someone suggested a heat gun. I don't have one. would a hair dryer work?
Wear gloves and use a propane torch. Keep the flame away from the plastic but close enough to heat it so it will bend.
Find something that has about the same curve as the sled and place the warm plastic on that object, then hold it there until it cools and holds it shape.
Good luck!
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Just so people know. I use to deal with usplastic all the time at work. Problem is their shipping cost is out of line. I would buy things and the shipping was 2 to 3 times the price of the item I was buying. Trouble is they are the only one to buy from sometimes. But I now buy from them as little as possible. IMO they make their money off of shipping.
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great thread. thanks, bean. question - how to put the bend on the front? someone suggested a heat gun. I don't have one. would a hair dryer work?
I used my buddy heater to get the bend in the runner. Worked great. Use work gloves because the plastic remains quite hot for a while.