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I'm sure both things happen, but I'm wondering 'in most cases', does a break off occur due to an abrasive cutting action of their teeth rubbing against the line? or does the pike thrash with such force that the resistance exceeds the line weight limit and simply snaps the line? Just wondering which it is most of the time. The fact that people say they lose less fish when using steel leaders leads me to believe that it must be the teeth that is causing most break offs.
Anybody can get lucky and land a pike without a steel leader. If the line gets into the canine teeth (the triangular, large cutting teeth on the lower jaw), it's over. Those teeth are so sharp, I have had 30 pound hard mono cut without feeling a thing. I have seen 80 pound flouro musky leaders bitten through on the strike. Winter fish are seldom hooked as deep as they can be in the summer, partly because of the colder water temps, but mostly because the strike is usually perpendicular to the line direction. What I mean is in the summer, the fish frequently follow the lure, striking from behind the lure. The speed of the strike often allows the lure to get very deep into the pike's rather large mouth, sometimes even through the gills and out the other side. I have seen large pike take the lure and a 12" leader and cut the line, all on the strike. When icefishing, the fish usually hits from the side, the lure very seldom gets very deep.Even on a deeply hooked fish, you can get lucky. Sometimes the line will get behind the lip, trapped in the corner of the mouth. Lip hooked fish can usually be landed.As a long time pike fishing guide, admittedly all summer time, I have seen tens of thousands of pike caught. Because we do a lot of sight fishing, I see many of these battles from start to finish. The only bite guard that won't get bitten through is wire. Hard mono, flourocarbon, braid, it doesn't matter. Those teeth will cut through any of them if they get the chance.No matter what you fish with, there will be a knot involved. There is no excuse for not knowing a good knot. There are many that work just fine.If you don't like leaders, knottable wire is a good alternative. Anything else is just playing the lottery. Its a lot like going "all in" in hold'em. It works every time, until it doesn't.Enjoy your fishing, it's about more than what comes up through the hole.Good luck!
I truly believe the steel/ polymer convo could go on forever and a day... Its obvious both work, committing yourself with faithto a style of fishing is something that takes time and experience...
On the gill plate issue, I am not convinced it is the major problem. I have had uncomfortable pressure from the gill plate on my thumb while holding a pike in a not quite right fashion, but I have never been cut by one. The gill plate lays pretty flat against the cheek, so there is very little opportunity for the line to catch against it. I am not saying it wouldn't cut the line under the right circumstances, but the gill plate is "butter knife" sharp, compared to the teeth being razor sharp. Throw in all that open mouthed head shaking.....Plain titanium wire is very effective, but extremely hard on the fish. If they roll or get tangled in it at all, it marks them up pretty bad. It's a little hard on the hands as well. Plastic coated braided wire is the best option for me.Cheers.
Well to quote the Wisconsin DNR website: " The canines (conical, pointed teeth) that ring the wide lower jaw and the short, sharp brushlike teeth that line the roof of the northern"Check it out for yourself if you don't believe me.http://dnr.wi.gov/topic/fishing/documents/species/northernpike.pdfI'm not here to argue with anyone as I can only point out the facts. Since most of the comments that we all read here are usually personal opinion (mine included).