Author Topic: How to buil a portable ice shanty  (Read 4018 times)

dan moore

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How to buil a portable ice shanty
« on: Nov 15, 2002, 12:11 PM »
How to Build a 4'x8' 6-hole Portable Ice Shanty    materials:. · 1 sheet of 4'x8'x 5/8" psr treated · 2 sheets of 4'x8'x1/2" plywood · 1 - 2"x4"x4' pine board · 2 - 2"x2"x8' pine boards (support pole) · 3 - 2'x4'x8' pine boards · 1 - heavy duty poly tarp 10'x16' · 4 door handles (2 per door in/out) · 2 barrel bolts (door latches) · 8 - 3" hinges (door/sides) · 2 - 4" eye screws (connect rope for towing) · 8 - 2"x4' firring strips · 24 - 2.5" galvanized screws · 6 - 1.5" galvanized screws · 42 1/4"x1" coarse thread bolts · 46 1/4" coarse thread nuts · 46 1/4" lock washers · 42 1/4"x1" flat washers · 100 x1/2" flat top tarp screws. Cost For Materials: Approximately $100 Tools Needed · heavy duty staple gun (3/8" staples) · jig saw · skill saw · screw gun · 1/4" drill bit · sharp knife · pencil · permanent marker · 30" piece of string · measuring tape DIRECTIONS 1) The Floor: Place the 4'x8' 5/8" plywood on the floor. On one end of the plywood, screw down the 2"x4"x4' board. The back panel of the hut is fastened to this 2"x4", to enable the front panel to lay flat with the back panel on top of it. On each of the 2"x4" boards measure down 1 1/2" then out 6" from the bottom of the board toward the other end. Draw a line from your first mark to the second. This angles each of the 2"x4" skis. Each outer board is flush with the eight foot length of the 4'x8'x5/8" plywood the middle ski is positioned 24" on center. Screw the in place with 2 1/2" galvanized deck screws.click here to see a top view drawing 2) The sides: Take each of the 1/2" plywood make a pencil mark six feet from the 4' end and 24 inches on center. Drive a small nail into that mark. Tie the 30" piece of string to the nail. Wrap the other end of the string around the pencil measuring out to the edge of the plywood (24" from center). Scribe an arc from one side to the other. Use the jig saw to cut out the arc. Take the off-cut plywood and set on top of the other full sheet of 4'x8'x1/2" plywood. Push flush to the top and sides. Mark the arc with the pencil. Use the jig saw to cut out the arc of the second plywood sheet. Now take the second off-cut board and lay it on the first off cut board. push the edges flush, then pus the top board three inches up and scribe and arc with the pencil. This forms a moon shaped piece that will be used to secure the tarp on each of the sides of the shanty. Repeat to form a second moon shaped piece for the other side. Next, measure a 2' x 4' doorway on the front and back panels, if two doors are required. Leave a 6" sill on the bottom to keep out blowing snow and retain plywood strength. Make the first four foot cut with the jig saw. Place two of the 3" hinges along the cut, mark each of the hinge holes with the permanent marker. Pre-drill each of the marks with the 1/4" drill bit. Fasten hinges to the board with a 1/4" bolt, flat washer, lock washer and nut. Make the other 3 cuts on the door, the door should now swing free on the hinges. repeat if two doors are desired. Place a barrel bolt on the inside of the door 24" on center, install with hardware included. Place a handle on one side of the door. Mark the handle holes with a permanent marker, drill wit the 1/4" drill bit. Install a handle on either side of the door using a 1/4" bolt, lock washer and nut. A small porthole can be cut at one or both ends for ventilation. If a heater is to be used, ventilation is necessary to avoid build-up of carbon monoxide gas. Also, a small viewing hole at either end at eye level can be cut out and covered with a piece of plexiglass. Check with your local glass company for scraps as this can be expensive to purchase from the lumber yard. click here to see a side view drawing 3) Side assembly Place one of the sides (barrel bolt side inward) Using three hinges for each panel, fasten them inside to the hut. To maintain an even height, keep the front and back panels flush with the bottom of the floor. They fold with the hut. click here to see a side and bottom view drawing The framework can now be erected and the ridge pole put in place on top (see diagram I). For added strength and comfort, two more ridge poles can be added at the side, giving the angler a place to lean back and have a shelf in front of heine. With the frame erected, apply the canvas or tarp You might need a helping hand. If you wish, you can staple every 3" to 4" on the side panels and floor. A 3" or 4" plywood security strip on the front and back panels adds durability and strength. Now, cut openings in the plywood floor to the size of the auger hole you intend to use. I made 10" square holes. The board removed can be screwed to a 13" piece of 1/2 or 5/8" plywood to make a cover for each of the holes to keep out blowing snow or make more room when not fishing all 6 holes. The basic hut is now finished. A coat of paint, stain, or varnish on wooden parts helps preserve them. The shanty is easy to setup! Simply open the door while the shanty is collapsed slide a 2x2x8 pine board ( support pole ) into the shanty on the floor. Lift the door while climbing inside, then use the support pole on the floor to lift the other side of the shanty. The tension between the two side walls is enough to keep the pole in place. Get the other support pole and place it on the opposite side to complete the setup


anyone else with plans, please post them here.

chicocalliente

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Re:How to buil a portable ice shanty
« Reply #1 on: Sep 22, 2003, 08:18 PM »
I am going to build this Ice house and I was wondering if there are any tips you could give me in building it.

 



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