Author Topic: Jiffy 30 - New Carb, New Plug, New Gas - Won't Run. (Read 1131 times)

Stuckie · « **on:** Jan 20, 2018, 03:27 PM »

Hi All, sorry the first post is to ask for advise but I've searched the forums and seem to have tried everything and I'm out of ideas.
Jiffy 30, about 10yrs old, the guy I bought it off of had left bad gas in it.
I put in a new carb kit and plug and nothing...
So I found and purchased an OEM part carb, put it on, set the screws and same thing as before. It will run for a few seconds after priming then starves for fuel and dies and won't run at all after.
I haven't done a proper compression test but there is a ton of pull on the plug hole when I turn it over.
Any other carb adjustments that might be the gremlin?
Thoughts/ideas are much appreciated.
Thanks.

Doeslayer · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 03:34 PM »

Maybe coil is bad

Ole Polanski · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 03:45 PM »

Howdy and welcome! Some things to check.... In the bottom of the gas tank is a fine screen type filter thhat gets gummed up with old gas or dirt and restricts flow. Old fuel line deteriorate and or colapse.While replacin fuel line check the nipple where gas comes out of tank to be sure the clamp has not colapsed it! Make sure that the vent screw in gas cap is actually clear to let air into the tank when opened!Is carb tight onto motor with decent gasket to get the most suck of the gas? Lastly would be the jet screws are not set corectly? Runs after priming but starves sounds like fuel not gettin to carb! Please keep us informed how you make out! O.P.

IceholeFisherman · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 03:47 PM »

Thinking same. Does this carb have a float?

Stuckie · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 04:00 PM »

Thanks for the feedback and the welcome.
Lots of spark, fuel line is like new but haven't checked for a screen in the tank - having said that, pulling the fuel line off the carb, fuel pours out so I can't see that being an issue.
No float in the carb.
Fuel mix is 30:1 - went a little leaner hoping it would help but even with 24:1 same thing.
I pulled the carb again, pulled the reed valve off to have a look and that all checks out.
Also checked and double checked the carb settings. Even thought I had screws mixed up so tried reverse settings and nothing.
It's weird because it is such a simple set up...

Ole Polanski · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 04:09 PM »

Jiffy changed their fuel oil mix to 40 to 1 some yrs. back! IF you can get it started... will it stay runnin if you keep thumpin the primer thingy??

Ole Polanski · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 04:10 PM »

Also will it run on choke?

IceholeFisherman · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 04:14 PM »

Only thing I see is you went richer at 24 to 1, not leaner. How many turns out from seated is the low speed mixture screw?

oleike · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 04:25 PM »

i know this sounds too simple but...have you unscrewed the vent on top the tank

maddogg · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 06:30 PM »

Same thing here. I put in new points and condenser now it works great.

uncleshorty · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 06:44 PM »

Sounds like a fuel / fuel delivery problem. After you prime it it runs for a short time. If there was a spark problem it wouldn't start at all.

I' d start by cleaning EVERY fuel system component from the gas cap to intake manifold. That includes the new parts since they may have become contaminated. What maintenance have you done on the air filter? Make sure it's up to snuff.

You need fire fuel and air to run. It seems you have two out of three...

DR.SPECKLER · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 06:54 PM »

does it stay running if you keep priming it?like when it goes to stall, prime it to keep it running?

timr35 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 20, 2018, 07:01 PM »

float needle is stuck disassemble carb clean carb and main needle valve.

Stuckie · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 21, 2018, 10:17 PM »

Thanks for all the feedback I really appreciate it.
I haven't taken the carb apart considering it's new but I will to ensure everything is moving freely and no obstructions.
Here's something that was suggested to me....
Has anyone had an issue with crank shaft seals on these from it becoming hard over time?
I was talking to a bike mechanic and he said to take the gear box off and clean the shaft then watch for fuel as I'm trying to run the auger.
What about the reed valve?
Anyone ever have issues with theirs?

IceholeFisherman · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 22, 2018, 05:37 AM »

Quote from: timr35 on Jan 20, 2018, 07:01 PM

float needle is stuck disassemble carb clean carb and main needle valve.

That's what I thought. Or it is not adjusted properly. But op said there is no float in this carb.

DR.SPECKLER · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 22, 2018, 07:58 AM »

Quote from: Stuckie on Jan 21, 2018, 10:17 PM

Thanks for all the feedback I really appreciate it.
I haven't taken the carb apart considering it's new but I will to ensure everything is moving freely and no obstructions.
Here's something that was suggested to me....
Has anyone had an issue with crank shaft seals on these from it becoming hard over time?
I was talking to a bike mechanic and he said to take the gear box off and clean the shaft then watch for fuel as I'm trying to run the auger.
What about the reed valve?
Anyone ever have issues with theirs?

my experience with crankshaft seals leaking on 2 stroke engines is a high idle that will not adjust down.

Alex Delarge · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 22, 2018, 01:54 PM »

Couple things that have not been mentioned.
Make sure the carb diaphragm is installed correctly, not upside down.
There is a needle seat, make sure it is functioning properly, you should be able to blow air through when you push the needle down and it should "plug up" when released.
Hole in primer bulb line?
Head gasket... does it sound like it is sucking wind? Oil/fuel present around head?
A lot of people using synthetic oils @ 80:1 and it improves performance.
The other thing would be the hi/lo adjustments, they can be finicky.

Light liner · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 22, 2018, 02:39 PM »

Fuel or fire.
Check for spark, if there's spark give it a shot of carb clean.
If it fires up than it's a fuel issue.
Still having an issue check compression.
Good luck.

iceman260 · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 22, 2018, 04:00 PM »

Check your exhaust ports , the holes get carboned up sometimes.

maddogg · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 23, 2018, 10:59 AM »

Mine had plenty of spark until the condenser got warm.The condenser acts as dampener , preventing current from arcing (jumping) across the open gap in the breaker points, ensuring that the circuit is broken cleanly.

Stuckie · « **Reply #20 on:** Sep 22, 2018, 09:04 PM »

Thanks again for all the advice on this... I finally gave up last winter and stuck it in the shed... got the itch today, dragged it out and ripped it right down to the crank.
Both crank seals were destroyed... deformed and the one on the output shaft had actually come apart as I found bits and pieces of it in the gear case.
I'm thinking (hoping) this might have been the issue...
Now time to try and find those seals and see what happens.
It's very odd because the engine is otherwise in very good condition... I wonder if they could have been so dry from lack of use that when I tried to get it running again it shredded them?
Has anyone had to change those seals or experienced something like this?

Light liner · « **Reply #21 on:** Sep 23, 2018, 11:10 AM »

The seals aren't terrible to change. Make sure everything is clean and put some permatex on the outside of the seals on the case housing.

Picking perch · « **Reply #22 on:** Sep 23, 2018, 12:39 PM »

Quote from: iceman260 on Jan 22, 2018, 04:00 PM

Check your exhaust ports , the holes get carboned up sometimes.

I have seen this a few times. If the fuel mix is too rich the muffler screen gets plugged.

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Author Topic: Jiffy 30 - New Carb, New Plug, New Gas - Won't Run. (Read 1131 times)