Milwaukee drill side handle issues...

[Gills-only]

  With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.

.    Oh I see, guess have to put up with it then !

[Ice Scratcher]

  With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.

There's plenty of ways to make a quick disconnect to use the plate to turn an anchor...

I know if I was to need a bunch of quick anchors (hub on windy days) I would find a way to use one of my impact drivers for that rig.. Uses same batteries anyway..

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[OldSailor]

There's plenty of ways to make a quick disconnect to use the plate to turn an anchor...

I know if I was to need a bunch of quick anchors (hub on windy days) I would find a way to use one of my impact drivers for that rig.. Uses same batteries anyway..

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Or buy a cheap lithium-ion battery drill at Walmart or Tractor Supply!!

[ran7ger]

 or grab a cheap old hand drill from the pawn shop and drill pilot holes.

[RyanW]

Well..... contrary to my previous posts.... my handle snapped off on the first hole today doing everything I said to do lol. Good thing going slow drills just as well. Still drilled about 10 holes after the first one and honesty it isn’t any more difficult without the auxiliary handle. Needless to say, looks like a clam plate is in my future....

[Ice Scratcher]

Well..... contrary to my previous posts.... my handle snapped off on the first hole today doing everything I said to do lol. Good thing going slow drills just as well. Still drilled about 10 holes after the first one and honesty it isn’t any more difficult without the auxiliary handle. Needless to say, looks like a clam plate is in my future....

That stinks!

Seems like this is only happening this season on new drills. Milwaukee must have changed the alloy that piece is cast from...

Can't remember hearing about this last few seasons..

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[RyanW]

Me either! Most of the reason I went this route this year was the handle. Story of my life lol. It’s still 100% better than tiring myself out hand drilling 8” holes though. I’m highly considering stepping down to a 6” considering I fish panfish most of the time anyways. I’m not even sure if it’s worth contacting Milwaukee about. I got it over the summer so there’s no “90 day” anything like that.

[Sharp Nils]

  I read through this thread a couple days ago.   I use the 2704 with handle on my 8" Nils.
   Buddy of mine wanted to go electric on his 8" lazer.  He bought the 2704 online and it won't be coming till next week and asked me to try it out with my 2704.
Sure,  but we're not using my handle.    I drilled a few holes and told him to get the CLAM PLATE.

[lynng]

  I read through this thread a couple days ago.   I use the 2704 with handle on my 8" Nils.
   Buddy of mine wanted to go electric on his 8" lazer.  He bought the 2704 online and it won't be coming till next week and asked me to try it out with my 2704.
Sure,  but we're not using my handle.    I drilled a few holes and told him to get the CLAM PLATE.

He could also think about exchanging the 2704 for a Mud Mixer if he prefers to not use the plate. I assure you he will not have a handle problem with the Mixer.

[TIME2FISH]

The Milwaukee Mud Drill has some specs that could be a problem for ice drilling. It does not have a clutch, it has a button triggerlock and a max 550 rpm. So what could possibly go wrong? Someone locks the trigger at a higher rpm, the auger bit binds and locks, then comes a test - can you unlock the trigger fast enough or you enter a torque test between your wrists vs the auger bit vs the drill torque vs the battery. If it ripped the handles out of your hands how long do you have to wait for the battery to wear down before the drill stops spinning around in the hole? 
p.s. My buddy has a M18 with a Nils auger and I never felt any torque at breakthrough of the bottom of the hole. Some reports above say the Lazer auger develops torque at the bottom of the hole.

[UFCreel]

Was out yesterday drilling in 12 inches of good solid ice. My Milwaukee drilled no problems what so ever without the hand lever using a six inch k-drill. I chase panfish. I have heard of a lot of issues with the lever and Mora augers. Blades becoming unscrewed pop off and bind up. Then lever breaks offs.

[RyanW]

Was out yesterday drilling in 12 inches of good solid ice. My Milwaukee drilled no problems what so ever without the hand lever using a six inch k-drill. I chase panfish. I have heard of a lot of issues with the lever and Mora augers. Blades becoming unscrewed pop off and bind up. Then lever breaks offs.

Well. In my short lived side-handle experience, it’s almost as if if the side-handle was an after thought. It didn’t matter how well it was seated. The clamping area can’t handle the amount of torque, not enough surface area on the drill housing or the handle clamp. No matter how tight, it starts twisting and eventually....SNAP! Mine drills just as fine without it on a 8” Lazer though. Go slow and everything is gravy.

[fishEH]

People breaking handles might not be drilling properly I think. The side handle is to stabilize, not absorb torque. 
Stick your leg/knee on the side of the battery to absorb the torque, if there is any.
Year 3 of Milwaukee drill with Lazer auger. 1.5 years with an 8".

[MT204]

The Milwaukee Mud Drill has some specs that could be a problem for ice drilling. It does not have a clutch, it has a button triggerlock and a max 550 rpm. So what could possibly go wrong? Someone locks the trigger at a higher rpm, the auger bit binds and locks, then comes a test - can you unlock the trigger fast enough or you enter a torque test between your wrists vs the auger bit vs the drill torque vs the battery. If it ripped the handles out of your hands how long do you have to wait for the battery to wear down before the drill stops spinning around in the hole? 
p.s. My buddy has a M18 with a Nils auger and I never felt any torque at breakthrough of the bottom of the hole. Some reports above say the Lazer auger develops torque at the bottom of the hole.

I have probably the first mud mixer to be used as a power head for a K-drill in the US.
Far as I'm concerned it's also one of the best power heads for a K-drill for a number of reasons.
Number one is no clutch to wear out.
Heavier gear box than most drills and a larger motor.
No side handles to break off, and can be set up for right or left handers.
As far as locking the trigger on, not sure why one would lock it on while drilling? It's not real easy to even lock the trigger on.
The k-drill (not sure of others) was designed to run 500-700 rpms, so not a problem run with the mud mixer.
A little bit of machine work on the K-drill spindle and a Quik-lock chuck on the mud mixer and it's a perfect pair----as far as I'm concerned.

[RyanW]

People breaking handles might not be drilling properly I think. The side handle is to stabilize, not absorb torque. 
Stick your leg/knee on the side of the battery to absorb the torque, if there is any.
Year 3 of Milwaukee drill with Lazer auger. 1.5 years with an 8".

That’s what I thought too. I don’t know how much more properly I could have drilled. My body literally braced the entire drill and at one point I drilled one handed. I wasn’t even going full bore. Half bore at most. It’s the cast aluminum housing coupled with too little surface area in both the housing and the handle clamps and a bunch of torque. I’ve seen nothing but raving reviews for this setup for the last 2 years. The problem has only been with the newer models. Mine included. Bought a clam plate 2 days ago and I’m going to pop it’s cherry tomorrow. I have zero doubts in its ability.

[Champlain Islander]

I wanted to set up a cordless drill last year and read the reviews on the Milwaukee fuel with the 5 AH battery. Great drill with plenty of power but it has a serious design flaw with the handle. These drills have a ton of torque so an auxiliary handle is necessary to safely use it for an ice drill. I know several people who used the Milwaukee as the power sorce and all of them had issues with the handle. I elected to go with a Dewalt which has a much better design for their handle and have never had a problem.

[RyanW]

Honestly, the auxiliary handle isn’t even neccesary. Drill slower and just brace the drill and it works just fine. Going slower solves a lot of issues on it’s own.

Having said that though, the clam plate is f-ing sweet and makes everything easier. I recommend it for any drill setup especially with high torque drills and 8” augers. The Dewalt guys here seem to really like those drills though. The handles are definitely designed better.

[Ice Scratcher]

Going slower solves a lot of issues on it’s own.

True words ^





Fast don't always get you to where you would like to be..

Little bit of a scare today, lol, rubbed dirt in it, all set..

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[wefishandflop]

I somehow missed these posts about handle issues and mud mixers and got the hammer drill because it was everyone's go to.  The handle is definitely a weak point. My Mora cuts nice until near bottom when it jams and jars the handle. It's not most of the drilling that is the problem but just that last sudden movement. I might try something to avoid using the handle. Same as someone above...I wanted to use one drill for anchors and holes but maybe using two with one on the plate makes more sense.

Warning to those in the market: the 2704 handle is not fantastic.

[wefishandflop]

On the subject, do you think it is better for the drill to have give at the handle than be locked into a clam plate and absorb that jarring motion? I will probably run with what I have but try and be careful and if it breaks go with a clam plate next year.

[3300]

think i would use it in screw mode and use the clutch to try to avoid breaking the casting.

[joefishmore]

think i would use it in screw mode and use the clutch to try to avoid breaking the casting.

The drill has numbers too. which number to set it on ?

[3300]

i have a different brand, but i would think the highest clutch setting would be better than breaking things. it stands a chance to slip that way.

try it to find what number works best for your auger and ice conditions. start a little over mid way and work your way up if it keeps slipping. i think they go to 24 and i think that is the strongest setting. so try 15 or so and go up til you find the right number.
an 8 inch auger will need a higher clutch number than a 6 inch. and the brands and blades conditions will come into play also.

[hardwater diehard]

Good technique

[wefishandflop]

I have an extension piece that has a disk on it in case it comes out of the chuck. Part of the extension has a piece of PVC that rotates freely. Without the handle on it I drilled this afternoon with my left hand running the drill and the drill against the left side of my body. I could also hold the PVC piece for support. Worked well. I won't be playing with the handle any more.

[lefty2053]

That technique is OK if your auger drilled counter Clockwise. When my wrist got twisted the 2 times it did the drill twisted clockwise. And so I have my handle on my right side and that will work. The way he is showing you need the battery pack to be inline with your right leg if there is any torque coming from the auger to the drill the battery pack will hit your right leg.  Interesting how they made this video and had no clue on what the torque would do. I guess that is because the Kdrill doesn't catch at the bottom of the hole like Strikemasters and some others.

[jakefetch]

I snapped the casting twice on mine.  Used it with the handle and without afterwards.  I bought the clam plate this season.  Solves all the problems, and doesn't create any new issues, other than it weighs a little more.  In my opinion, it is the way to go.

[Fishmon]

A simple fix is to add a lock washer behind the lock mechanism toward the handle.  This insures that the handle will not loosen up.  I think a lot of the breakage occurs when the handle loosens and creates an uneven pressure on the housing.  I did this after the handle loosened on me and LOL, I said "Hey, genius fix this".  Never had a problem after adding lock washer for what ($.11).

[Ice Scratcher]

That technique is OK if your auger drilled counter Clockwise.

The "drill bit" in that video is right hand (clockwise).. Is that Nero a left hand, (counter clockwise) ?

It looked left hand in those Russian videos, but I thought someone said it was actually right hand?

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