IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
IceShanty Main => General Ice Fishing Chit Chat => Topic started by: walleyehawger on Dec 06, 2013, 04:44 PM
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I have been using my Milwaukee with a 4" or a 5" Lazer for a few years and have been happy with it. I am just wondering if I am missing out on a better, more efficient auger. What are you guys using?
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Nils.
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Nils and strikemaster are even the hype of the nils, is just hype after buying a nils everyone says the way better I can punch holes way faster and straighter with a lazer, and blades have to be sharpened the same amount had them both on drills my nod goes to lazer
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can anyone with a 8" nils comment on the size of drill they use - and it works well... When mine arrived, it stated at least 18V. The NILs site says 28V though, and I've heard some say they burned out their 18V. My hunch is their problem had more to do with plastic gears though. I know Skil has model 2898LI-02 (metal gears) and porter cable has the PCCK600LB which I "think" has metal gears. Both 18V.
Anyone using either of these, or something similar with metal gears? This all I would use if for, and don't want to spend megabucks...
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I have a friend that uses a 36v Bosch gets 40 holes out of a battery
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Thanks Muskrush, but just no way I can see spending almost 400 beans for something I'm going to use just for this. Hoping someone out there is using something that cost much much less...
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I have a 8" nils and use a 18 volt Makita. My drill is one of the heavier hammer drill models. I have used it a couple of years . maybe 20 holes a day, I think that the hammer type models are built with heavier duty gears.
Dave
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i think your all set for now
i use lazer 4 and 6" with ridgid brand 24 volt hammer drill with it set to drill mode on speed one
if you want to upgrade the drill look at warranties too.
ridgid bought online or at homedepot are lifetime every thing
mine is 550 foot pounds. not the best torque, but best warranty and i can drill 50 holes at least per battery even when the ice is 24 inches. the cold deletes them faster than using them up. so keep them warm in the shanty or a cloth bag with hand warmers.
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I think you have to have a hammer drill for any auger to work well. The hammer drills have more torque
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I have an 8" Nils, and I have used an 18V on it, worked OK going through up to 15" of ice, but it started to smoke on me, so I went to a Bosch 36V, works like a champ now.
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LAZER™ SYNTHETIC ULTRA-LITE is what I am going to this year after using it last year on a buddies drill. It leaves a cleaner hole then the Nils and I love the reduced weight. It should really help the gears and clutch on the cordless drills.
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LAZER™ SYNTHETIC ULTRA-LITE is what I am going to this year after using it last year on a buddies drill. It leaves a cleaner hole then the Nils and I love the reduced weight. It should really help the gears and clutch on the cordless drills.
Does the 1.5lbs difference really make that much of a difference?
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Just remember that volume of ice to be removed is pi times radius squared times thickness. Six inch hole radius is three inches and square that gives nine. Eight inches, four squared is sixteen. Ten inch hole and five squared is twenty five. You will get just a little better than half as many eight inch holes as six inch, and just a little better than a third as many ten inchers. Make the hole small and you'll get to make a lot more holes.
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Does the 1.5lbs difference really make that much of a difference?
Yes the reduced weight is better for your gear box and Clutch. But the major difference is that the cutting head is very different from the all metal laser. They are using the NOVA head from Mora which is a very good and fast cutting auger in Sweden. Also the Lazer leaves a clear hole then the Nils(less slush in the hole).
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i have a milwaukee 18volt red lithium ion and run a 8'' fin bore on it. i have 3 batteries and switch them out between holes so they don't get over heated. i get around 15 holes through 16'' of ice per battery this way. 1 thing i have noticed is i get more holes if i just cut straight through the entire hole without pulling it out half way through to clean some of the ice out
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Take a look at the Kluge from Vexilar. Industrial blades and a very light bit!
Good fishing,
Corey Bechtold
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Take a look at the Kluge from Vexilar. Industrial blades and a very light bit!
Good fishing,
Corey Bechtold
http://icefishingtoday.com/pages/web_extra_electric_drill_ice_augers.php
i like what i saw except the guy saying it is effortless and no twist pressure put onto you and then the lady gets on it and it about throws her a few times like a bucking bronco
at least companies are trying to have new concepts on old gear
up selling that drill makes it worse tho and should be offered w/o it. makes me laugh at him selling a cordless drill with no cover and i bet warranty does not cover water damage. could at least make a cover for it as a package if you want to go there
being it is sold at only one place makes me leary just like the "as seen on tv" products that are always junk. thats why they are "not seen on shelves" because you could return products
i will stay with my life time warranty drill and battery thanks. not two years like they are selling.
wonder what they want for new ones being you can only buy from one place. its not like they have the market corned on them huh
thanks for the share!
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i will stay with my life time warranty drill and battery thanks. not two years like they are selling.
Mr 3300,
Make & Model? Purchased where? Link?
PS: You post ALOT.... Thanks Bro :)
Frogmaster... Bless
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Merry Christmas
i will be mia when ice hits
http://www.homedepot.com/s/ridgid%2520cordless%2520drills?NCNI-5
best one they have atm. they change product a lot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Hyper-Lithium-Ion-X4-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-Kit-R8611501K/202581836#
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Hammer-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Kit-with-Free-4-0-Amp-Hour-Battery-Pack-R8611501KP-AC840087/204496973#.UrpWqnXh5yU
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physically speaking, the lighter the hunk of metal you're trying to turn with the tiny electric motor is the better off you are going to be. i have a strikemaster lazer 4 inch and a 20v dewalt drill. I can get 50+ holes through 10 inches of ice with one battery. I dont even bring a second one with me anymore
key thing i noticed was to use far less pressure than I would use when cranking by hand.
It takes a little longer to drill the hole but it uses less power when i was leaning on it to get a hole drilled fast I was only getting 30 or less before I had to change out batteries.
reason being if you only have a 2 amp hour battery and you are drawing 6 amps out of it while pressing down hard v.s. drawing .5 amps and keeping the drill turning a few more seconds to cut the same hole...
Also if you can keep the batteries and drill warm I find that I get better performance out of it.
I keep mine in its hard plastic black case and leave it in the sun.
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Just make sure it's brushless. I used to work in a tool repair house here in NH and from my experience there is one thing that matters above all if you want a top notch drill- brushless. The gears don't wear out, there really aren't many gears at all. But a brushless motor will not burn out like a brushed one will. A big drill bit going through ice puts a lot of torque on the motor and that means more heat from the motor working hard. Heat kills brushes but does not affect a brushless near as much.
The Rigids at the Cheapo Depot are mostly not brushless, all the Milwaukee M18 Flex tools are brushless. Do yourself a favor and make sure you buy brushless.
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Thanks Doc! ;)
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Good info Doc. I had no idea about brushless drills
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physically speaking, the lighter the hunk of metal you're trying to turn with the tiny electric motor is the better off you are going to be.
Not really. Did you ever hear of The Flywheel Effect? A "heavier" body in motion tends to stay in motion better than a light body in motion.
The flywheel on your car motor is a good example.
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One thing to consider is the nils cordless auger. It is designed specifically for a cordless drill. Not only does it have the flange and adapter built in, but the pitch of the blades is different from a standard nils.
The adjusted pitch is designed to be run at the speed of a drill rather then a traditional hand auger that is designed to run much slower. In the end, the one designed specifically for a cordless drill will perform much better then one that is converted.
The better efficency will allow for more holes per battery and less strain on the drill.
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physically speaking, the lighter the hunk of metal you're trying to turn with the tiny electric motor is the better off you are going to be.
Not really. Did you ever hear of The Flywheel Effect? A "heavier" body in motion tends to stay in motion better than a light body in motion.
The flywheel on your car motor is a good example.
that's in a system with minimal resistance, using a drill is high friction
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i only own/use strike masters lasers and they do a great job and blades are both easy to sharpen and easy to buy and are in many stores and not touchy/finicky
when i start the hole it throws ice out 2 feet away easily and the drill is on 1st gear. would hate to see what it does on 2nd gear
i do use an up force when drilling and never allow the extra weight of the drill to push down on the blades. if you push, the blades are dull
The Rigids at the Cheapo Depot are mostly not brushless, all the Milwaukee M18 Flex tools are brushless. Do yourself a favor and make sure you buy brushless.
these drills you speak of, how long is the warranty again? if you want to keep buying some thing, get some thing with out a great warranty and gives a limited time frame and then they back out out of it. the batteries will need to be replaced and guess who's buying!? again and again and
can you give a link to the life time warranty please?
thanks in advance
i will take an upgrade any day of the week! i am all for saving money, that's for sure, and buying smart is another "thats for sure"! if you have a brand that does better across the board i want to know so i can share this new info on to others that might need tools and for when i need a tool i don't already have and has a better warranty. shoot, if it's a better warranty, maybe i will replace all of my cordless tools.
as far as heat goes, its pretty darn cold out when i'm on ice and the drill is on for maybe 3 to 5 seconds.
what are the temps of the gears and brush's when you pull the trigger and what are they afterwards?
with life time warranty, i don't care if it has brushes or gears or what ever else some one is doing, if it doesn't last or i have to pay to make it work again, count me out!
i buy the one who stands behind their product for the longest time and i do not care what the label says for a name, only performance and if they stand behind it or not. i have no say in that and really do not care either, i only want to buy "smart". we use our ridgid tools year around and drill thru 2x8 2x6 2x4 with 4 and 5" hole saws. they will break your wrists/arms before you can stop it. me and my buddy never have had issues with our ridgid tools and we own most of them. the battery life is also a key factor here. in the field working with contractors we see all of the "other brands" have to go to their charge station much more than ourselves
in case you didn't know those tools are all made in the same factory with different specs from the brands
UPDATE:
never mind i found it
3 year battery
five year drill warranty and same motor as ridgid (both are 4-pole open frame motor), but less torque- 525 in-lbs
also, if you look at the vents in the rear/sides of both drills, those are to allow for breathing of the brushes
also, 4 pole motor means it has four brushes (2 positives and 2 negatives), so in a clockwise direction, it would be pos, neg, pos, neg. much better contact points and more life from the brushes which means means more torque and less wear of the comutator. once that is worn down, you have to replace the armature
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2602-22
ridgids same model, same motor (4-pole open frame motor). 615 in.-lbs. of torque. almost 100 inch pounds more torque and life time warranty.
no comparison at all. other than they drill holes
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-Hyper-Lithium-Ion-X4-1-2-in-Cordless-Hammer-Drill-Kit-R8611501K/202581836
so, thanks for trying to help those who have no idea what to buy
so buy smart
only cheapo depot/ridgid has such a warranty
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nice 2 know was looking 2 set up drill
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any time!
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The adjusted pitch is designed to be run at the speed of a drill rather then a traditional hand auger that is designed to run much slower. In the end, the one designed specifically for a cordless drill will perform much better then one that is converted.
How about the standard Nils that comes on a power head that includes a handle for human-power. They run at entirely different speeds.
The hand unit that we buy is the same as that supplied with the power head. Your logic is that supplied by Nils which to the skeptics among us is
sales hype to induce the Nils religion to buy another.
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I picked up a 5 " laser at mom n pop bait shop a month ago ( used) in my travels for work. - used 5 " laser 25 bucks
Blades were dull, picked up new pair at Scheels on sale -19 buck s. Hooked up to a dewalt 18 volt.
13-14 " ice. Drilled through in less that 10 seconds today at local lake.
I have always laughed at cordless drill/ augers
The only reason I purchased was I fish with another I S member during early ice with his drill setup and was impressed .
I'm totally all for drill augers for early ice and opening up holes which I did today . Sold!!!!
2 cts. - 5 " laser / dewalt 18 hammer drill
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One thing to consider is the nils cordless auger. It is designed specifically for a cordless drill. Not only does it have the flange and adapter built in, but the pitch of the blades is different from a standard nils.
The adjusted pitch is designed to be run at the speed of a drill rather then a traditional hand auger that is designed to run much slower. In the end, the one designed specifically for a cordless drill will perform much better then one that is converted.
The better efficency will allow for more holes per battery and less strain on the drill.
That is total BS it is the same head on both augers. Put a compass on it and measure you will see that to be true.