How grabby is a Lazer auger with the clam Plate?

[Mrpike1973]

With all the chatter on here I have never used the Mora or Lazer on a clam plate. Are they still quite grabby at break through? Had my heart set on the Eskimo bit auger but now not so sure. I have tried the above with just the drill and handle I thought I would break a wrist. Anyway just thought I would ask.

[Seamonkey84]

It’s a problem with the support bars on 7 and 8” augers. If you lift up on it a bit as it cuts, it’ll shave a cleaner hole at breakthrough instead of leaving that chunk that catches the support bars. It’s more about ergonomics With a clam plate. it’s easier to support the weight of the unit and slow it’s downward pull. I hold my clam plate with my palms facing up so I’m basically lowering down as it cuts the hole. With the bare drill, your basically forced hold it with your wrist bent or standing over it, making it a bit less safe and have less control of its downward pull.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

 Yes the laser grabs and yanks a bit....if you lift up at hole break through it’s not so bad. The flat blade mora shouldn’t jerk at break through at all if it does it shouldn’t be much.

Clam plate helps control everything better.

Also just a heads up. If you have a mora flat blade alread, it can be turned in a lazer with an adaptor off eBay. Then it gives you the ability to switch back and forth.

[icefish1960]

I have the same grabby lazer with the clam plate, I plan on trying to lift up a bit before break through as recommended. I am also thinking about getting a flat blade mora and try that too. Or, might just get an adapter for my 6in. orange nils, buy a extra cutting head and go that route. I just have to figure out what adapter I need. Some times I over think cutting a simple hole in the ice!

[Agronomist_at_IA]

I have the same grabby lazer with the clam plate, I plan on trying to lift up a bit before break through as recommended. I am also thinking about getting a flat blade mora and try that too. Or, might just get an adapter for my 6in. orange nils, buy a extra cutting head and go that route. I just have to figure out what adapter I need. Some times I over think cutting a simple hole in the ice!

I’d wait and get an adaptor off eBay. I run a 10in mora, 8in nils, and 6in lazer. The nils is by far the smoothest cutting auger and is a dream at the bottom when cutting through.

Below is the adaptor to the clam plate for the blue nils. The orange drill auger adaptor is similar only longer so the stem off of the auger for the drill will slip up into the adaptor tube. I’ve only seen the adaptors sold on eBay, and it is a seasonal thing. Once they are on jump on them they go fast.

[icefish1960]

Thanks Agronomist, I'll be looking for something pretty soon.

[32footsteps]

In all honesty, I see this “issue” as being much ado about nothing. Does it grab? Yup. But once you cut a few holes with it you’ll get a feel for when you need to lift up slightly so it doesn’t grab. From that point forward it becomes second nature.

[Mrpike1973]

 I need a clean break through. I can't spend time trying to get it right. I broke both my wrists when I was younger in a bike accident. One wrong move and it's no fishing for a while. The lazer  I used just with the adaptor no Clam plate I could not use my hand for a week. Thought maybe it was better with the plate but sounds like you need to "learn how to do it right" hence the K drill works does not bind but in my opinion hard on the drill.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

I need a clean break through. I can't spend time trying to get it right. I broke both my wrists when I was younger in a bike accident. One wrong move and it's no fishing for a while. The lazer  I used just with the adaptor no Clam plate I could not use my hand for a week. Thought maybe it was better with the plate but sounds like you need to "learn how to do it right" hence the K drill works does not bind but in my opinion hard on the drill.

So did you ever land on an auger choice yet Mrpike?

[spoofhoundicefisher]

its really not a big thing.  i run a clam plate with a ridgid and a 7" lazer and my 8 year old and 10 year old ran it the last 2 years with no prob.  keep a spare set of blades and protect them at all cost and there is not even really a learning curve at all.  just a little up pressure right at break thru is all that is needed. 

[Agronomist_at_IA]

its really not a big thing.  i run a clam plate with a ridgid and a 7" lazer and my 8 year old and 10 year old ran it the last 2 years with no prob.  keep a spare set of blades and protect them at all cost and there is not even really a learning curve at all.  just a little up pressure right at break thru is all that is needed.

Some lazer augers don't seem to have much jerk, and others can be pretty violent. I have no Idea why or how they are different so see such a difference......maybe sharp vs dull blades?

[lefty2053]

Some lazer augers don't seem to have much jerk, and others can be pretty violent. I have no Idea why or how they are different so see such a difference......maybe sharp vs dull blades?

I think it because of the angle they cut. If they are allowed to go right threw they cut so fast that one blade goes threw and before the other comes around it leaves a chunk at the bottom of the hole causing it to grab. This is the case with the Nero for sure. If I pull it out and not punch it threw I can see the chunk at the bottom on one side. The Nero and I would guess the Lazers also take out chunks of ice and not shavings.

[Mrpike1973]

I have the K Drill 6 inch and bought a Mora 7 inch, I'm also waiting for the Eskimo that will be a while. I thought the 7 would be a nice intermediate in case of really thick ice or walleye fishing. The reason the Eskimo pistol bit looks so intriguing is it is lighter, between the bride and I we can drill 20 -40 holes in an afternoon. The wife feels the K- Drill is easy break through but very torquey she drill's half the holes too. A call to Eskimo said it is just slightly faster than the K-drill no biggie here but smoother also the K is only about 33 inches the eskimo is 40 inches high so i don't need another 60 buck k drill extension. Eskimo if i'm correct said there's comes with a 4 inch extension also not sure on that. It is supposed to be easier on the drill. I also see what Agronomist means by it does look alot like the Mora style but it has a ring around the base. When I had my Eskimo power auger had same bottom thought it was the cat's meow for ease of the hole is it the ring I don't know maybe it breaks the ice as it goes down. I wish the 5% I fished for other fish I wouldn't need a bigger hole than the 6 inch would sure solve issues. thanks again all for the advice.

[32footsteps]

I need a clean break through. I can't spend time trying to get it right. I broke both my wrists when I was younger in a bike accident. One wrong move and it's no fishing for a while. The lazer  I used just with the adaptor no Clam plate I could not use my hand for a week. Thought maybe it was better with the plate but sounds like you need to "learn how to do it right" hence the K drill works does not bind but in my opinion hard on the drill.

Last year I was out using a 7” Lazer on a clam plate a day after having pins removed from my left wrist. It is possible to protect current or former injuries. The drill turns clockwise. As you drill a hole stand with the drill/plate/bit slightly on your right and have the handle of the clam plate resting against your right side/hip/leg or whatever it will rest against depending on how tall you are and how thick the ice is. Then when it does grab your wrists are not taking the brunt of the force. 

I have an 8” earth bit for my Mako and drill a ton of holes with it in the summer. What I described above about about using your body as a “stop” for an auger that catches is a must when running post holes. It’ll grab a tree root or a stone and not only stop but a lot of the time the entire auger will be pulled at an angle that is not perpendicular to the ground depending on how it grabs a root, rock, etc. on ice you rarely if ever don’t have an unseen variable like a stone or root that you’ll hit. You can keep it at a consistent angle. If I wouldn’t do this my wrists would’ve been broken dozens of times.

[lefty2053]

Last year I was out using a 7” Lazer on a clam plate a day after having pins removed from my left wrist. It is possible to protect current or former injuries. The drill turns clockwise. As you drill a hole stand with the drill/plate/bit slightly on your right and have the handle of the clam plate resting against your right side/hip/leg or whatever it will rest against depending on how tall you are and how thick the ice is. Then when it does grab your wrists are not taking the brunt of the force. 

I have an 8” earth bit for my Mako and drill a ton of holes with it in the summer. What I described above about about using your body as a “stop” for an auger that catches is a must when running post holes. It’ll grab a tree root or a stone and not only stop but a lot of the time the entire auger will be pulled at an angle that is not perpendicular to the ground depending on how it grabs a root, rock, etc. on ice you rarely if ever don’t have an unseen variable like a stone or root that you’ll hit. You can keep it at a consistent angle. If I wouldn’t do this my wrists would’ve been broken dozens of times.

Just like changing oil in the car, prevent things that could happen.

[3300]

you can always try screw driver mode so you have a clutch in case it gets stuck. i also use my body to help hold the drill w/o a plate. it is like cutting metal being you listen to the motor work and know when to lift off the cutting pressure even more to avoid getting caught.