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Tricking trailers?!

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I put foam insulation board on the walls in order to keep it warmer inside for sleeping in.  I also put up LED's for lighting and a couple of fans in the top corners to move the air.  On the floor and rear door, I screwed old sled track for traction and to keep the plywood from tearing up from the studs on my sleds track.  Old track does a great job, it is usually free and it is very durable.

Arctic Addict:
Thanks Snitch, I am planning on adding insulation.  I am researching loading lights for the rear.  I want them to be dual purpose so they will be switched as well as coming on with the trailers reverse lights.  Often I fish to well after dark so the load lights will help at the end of a long day.  I also would like more light when backing up.  Just trying to figure out the best way to wire it.

I painted and caulked the bottom of my trailer floor under the trailer. Keeps water and snow from coming up from underneath. That white foam insulation works good for keeping it warm inside. Put 1/4 inch plywood over it and painted it white inside.

I didn't put anything over my insulation and I didn't glue it in.  I cut the sheets so that they were just a little wider then the panel from rib to rib on the side of the trailer.  Then, I put the insulation against one rib and then bent it  or bowed it out a little and then put it against the other rib.  Then I pushed it in.  The fit is tight enough that I didn't need glue.  It has been on now for four years and I have never had a panel fall out.  But, I can take them out if I want to do any additional wiring, if need be.  One of the results of not putting plywood over the insulation is that you do get a dent or mar here and there from hitting it on occasion.  But, if it ever gets to the point that I don't like the way it looks, I can go buy another sheet and replace it easy enough.


--- Quote from: Arctic Addict on Jan 12, 2021, 06:40 PM ---Anyone using the Caliber edge transition to span the gap between the door and the floor?  Looking for comments if you have used it or another product like it.

--- End quote ---

I used those in my 2016 Neo (24' X 7.5' NAS) trailer on the rear and front ramps.  I thought they were somewhat of a pain to deal with, having to remember to flip them up when closing the doors, plus their expense.  I just bought a new 2021 Neo (27' X 7.5' NASX) trailer and am now using a piece of 2"pvc pipe to span the transition area when in use, much cheaper and easier to deal with.  I don't bother putting any plastic down inside the trailer since I don't run studs on the track, the floor it not hurt that much and it does not seem to hurt resale, significant cost savings.

Here is a picture of my old trailer that had the Caliber transition units.


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