Author Topic: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry  (Read 4849 times)

Offline isaaccarlson

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HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« on: Dec 26, 2013, 08:28 PM »
We all find ourselves, at some time or another, drilling a hole and thinking "I KNOW this thing should be cutting faster than this".  Well, I found the answer for my particular situation.  I have a Strikemaster Mag 3 Plus and it has more than enough power to turn the 8" auger that is stuck on it's working end.  In fact, I can sit on the auger and it won't quit.  It always took forever to get through the ice, even though the auger was turning like crazy.  It turns out the "dish" on the bottom was not put on straight at the factory.  I had been messing with the tip in front of the blade forever and it never cut right.  I was sharpening it tonight and noticed that the "dish" looked crooked.  Sure enough it was.  I cut the weld on the side of the dish that is away from the blade and moved it down toward the point until the dish was square with the shaft.  It instantly looked like an auger should.  I could never put my finger on it, but it always looked weird to me, like it was twisted or something.  Well, I fixed it.  If anyone else is having the same problem, take a look at that dish thing at the bottom of your flighting that the blade attaches to.  It may be crooked.  If it is, reweld it.  I can share pictures if anyone is interested.

Offline lefty2053

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #1 on: Dec 27, 2013, 07:02 AM »
Have you tested it out since re-welding it? Sounds like you probably got it working correct now.
<===Lefty===

Offline 3300

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #2 on: Dec 27, 2013, 10:22 AM »
good one!
bothers me how this stuff gets passed all of those "quality inspectors" that put their numbered sticker on that says "PASSED #XYZ"
so if the stuff is basically junk and it doesn't work right, we quit buying that brand of what ever it is that failed or the whole brand name like some have done here already
quality is a thing of the past or until usa can start making things once again

Offline isaaccarlson

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #3 on: Dec 27, 2013, 11:32 AM »
IT WORKS!!!  It has never cut this fast.  I took it down to the landing and cut at least a dozen holes.  There is about 16 inches of ice.
It took me 9-10 seconds to cut each hole.  It would have taken me about a minute before the fix.  I have opened up the intake and exhaust.
I am very excited to go fishing now.  Tip-ups are going to go sooo much faster now.  It cuts about 1 1/2 inches per second.

I agree with the quality control.  It has gotten out of hand.  People look for something cheap because they are all made the same now. :(

Offline frogmaster

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #4 on: Dec 27, 2013, 02:46 PM »
IT WORKS!!!  It has never cut this fast.  I took it down to the landing and cut at least a dozen holes.  There is about 16 inches of ice.
It took me 9-10 seconds to cut each hole.  It would have taken me about a minute before the fix.  I have opened up the intake and exhaust.
I am very excited to go fishing now.  Tip-ups are going to go sooo much faster now.  It cuts about 1 1/2 inches per second.

I agree with the quality control.  It has gotten out of hand.  People look for something cheap because they are all made the same now. :(

What did you Weld?  Fix? You opened up the intake & exhaust ports!!!  HOW did you do that?  Pictures and explination please :)  YEAH 16" in 9 Seconds is SCREAMING!!!  Bless Bro
Fish FEAR ME ;)

Offline Idahogator

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #5 on: Dec 27, 2013, 02:49 PM »
I have opened up the intake and exhaust.


So, you opened up the intake and exhaust.

Any idea how many dollars went into R & D to develop the final design of that engine.       

So, now you have reduced the back pressure.  Any idea why the manufacturer made it that way.        :roflmao:

Would you be so kind to let us know how long the engine lasts ?      :whistle:
      

Offline isaaccarlson

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #6 on: Dec 27, 2013, 08:27 PM »
The dish/plate on the bottom of the auger that the blade attaches to is what was crooked.  It acts as a depth guide for the blade.  It was welded in such a way that the blade was barely touching the ice and could not get a good bite.  Now it bites good and hard.

Most engines leave a lot to be desired and they have to meet emissions standards.  They are choked off real bad and need to be opened up some to breathe.
I did not mess with the cylinder ports yet, but the carb, spacer, and exhaust were all opened up where they were tight.  The spacer was the worst becaust it was a round hole feeding a rectangular port.  I opened up the engine side of the spacer to smoothly transition from round to rectangular and to remove the step where they met.  The screws in the carb plates were trimmed flush with the rods to help air flow.  I wish the carb had a low mix jet, but it doesn't.  I adjusted the idle up a tad to smooth out the idle mix.  It runs real good and the burble clears up in the cut.  It bites enough to spin me the other way on smooth ice.  I am going to need spikes on my boots to run this thing.

This is what the bottom looks like.  of course this is a google picture, but it is the same auger.  The part of the plate in front of the blade was sticking down too far because the part across from the blade, or the part in the bottom right of the picture, was welded too far up the shaft.  I cut the weld and moved it down until the plate was square to the shaft and then welded it.  I also added a few welds to the flighting since there were only 3.

I also ground and sharpened the tip of the blade that extends toward the center.  The geometry is wrong for the radius of cut.  I sharpened the entire end at a right angle to the normal cutting edge.  It has the same angle of grind as the front cutting edge, but at 90° to it.  I am not sure what size chips are normal for an ice auger with chipper blades because I have always had shaver blades, but my ice chips are about the size of a grape with fluffy stuff mixed in.  If anyone knows what the normal size chip is, maybe you can shed some light on the subject so I know how I am doing.


Offline Rebelss

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #7 on: Dec 27, 2013, 09:21 PM »
Wow! Balanced, blueprinted, flow-ported, shotpeened and magnafluxed!!!! Let 'er rip!!!  :woot:
“The mass of men live lives of quiet desperation”  Thoreau

Offline Idahogator

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #8 on: Dec 27, 2013, 09:26 PM »
Hm, may get a few more R's with a 5 port job, but, as Kipling said, that is another story.    ;)2

And welcome to the den of space engineers.  Truly.   
      

Offline isaaccarlson

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #9 on: Dec 28, 2013, 08:51 PM »
It will get a full port job this summer, but it works great for now.  The more I use it, the more I love it.  I find myself wanting to just cut holes in the lake. ;D

Offline Idahogator

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #10 on: Dec 28, 2013, 10:12 PM »
Yup, think Swiss cheese.   :woot: :roflmao:
      

Offline isaaccarlson

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #11 on: Sep 23, 2022, 07:51 PM »
You wanted an update on the auger.  It still rips through the ice.  I'm going to run a laser bit on it this year and see how it does.

Offline Baetis62

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Re: HOW TO FIX bad ice auger geometry
« Reply #12 on: Sep 23, 2022, 11:20 PM »
9 years later?  That thing oughta rip by now Isaac...but hey I git it.  I have a Tanaka/Nils rig I'll never ever sell.   Might be temperamental from time to time but when it's dialed in and has the right fuel mix and a fresh edge on the head its a thing of beauty.  It'll be mine till I'm gone.  My only regret after 60 years is that I didn't explore outside of the Jiffy 30 sooner.  Actually I loved those too but I put a cap on the number of augers I'm gonna store in my garage. 10.  That's the number. Not excessive

 



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