Author Topic: Eliminating Line Twist (Read 8113 times)

five fathoms · « **on:** Mar 07, 2015, 06:37 PM »

I would appreciate any suggestions on how I could eliminate, combat, or reduce line twist and lure spin. I suspect it is a significant deterrent to fish examining my offerings. I've had many fish approach my lure only to gaze momentarily before slinking away. Later, when I retrieve my lure, it comes out of the hole revolving like a top. I suspect this has to do with my custom of tipping my lures with bait, but even my unbaited Jigging Raps spin at rest. So it must be imparted during the dropping or lifting of my lures.
Anyway, how do you folks overcome this issue? Those straight-line reels aren't an option; at times I fish down to 30'. I use spinning reels exclusively on ice and open water, and I haven't noticed this occurring with regularity when I vertically jig in open water.
Thanks in advance.

Baetis62 · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 07, 2015, 06:45 PM »

Swivel between mainline and fluoro leader

Stewie · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 09, 2015, 02:51 PM »

I don't have one yet, but my buddy fishes an inline in up to 190 feet of water, he loves it. Why would you not use one in 30?

brown-time · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 09, 2015, 09:39 PM »

Use a #1 Sampo swivel 24" above the lure. Use a big diameter, but narrow spool that produces much less twist. I like a Bass Pro Qualifier or Extreme'10' series on all ice rigs. 31" retrieve vs. 15.6" on 2.6 ratio In-lines. Helps land panfish fast and get the jig back pronto before the school leaves. And to feed the Frenzy. I had a Frabill 261 for 2 trips and used my friend' s Black Betty. I sold it to a shallow water guy. Too many issues like the slow time up and down i. Deep water. My big perch are in 40 feet and crappie suspended at 20 feet in 36 foot depths. Brown trout the same and lakers much deeper. The swivel makes a simple fix but it needs to be a high quality swivel and small enough to go through my size 6 Recoil guides. This system catches more and bigger than most on the lake. Honestly.,,,

five fathoms · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 09, 2015, 09:58 PM »

Thanks to all who replied. I value your input.
Stewie: As has already been mentioned, it simply takes too long to drop the lure down and retrieve it when fish are transient. If I were parked over homebodies, that might be a different story. Often, my flasher shows fish appearing in response to my jigged lure. When the lure vanishes, the fish follow suit. Opportunities are lost if I don't promptly send it back down to their level.
The use of swivels, as suggested by brown-time and baetis, is sound advice. I am hesitant about introducing another pair of knots between my connection to the fish, though. Just another link that could possibly fail, to say nothing of the swivel's propensity for catching on the bottom of the hole, or snagging crusted snow or ice topside.
What do you suppose causes this spin in the first place? How does the lure acquire it? What can I do to prevent it from happening?

brown-time · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 09, 2015, 10:15 PM »

Twist is minimized by using high quality limp line on a quality reel. Don't ever reel against the drag. Use a big spool of line to start the year with new line at the beginning of the season. Usually 30 yards is enough on panfish outfits and 50 yards for the 8# spools for bigger fish. A high quality limp coated braid like Duracast or Power Pro ice braid is limp enough to not have as much twist as fluoro. My lake trout outfits for deep water use casting reels that also have little twist and a 1 ounce spoon or jig isn't affected much.

brown-time · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 09, 2015, 10:31 PM »

I like 2,3, and 4 lb Asso fluoro on crappie n perch outfits on 4# Seaguar main line. 8# Seaguar Abras-X on trout rods and 10# coated braid on deeper water perch or trout. Never break my line on swivel knots but take your time and tie good knots with saliva.I fish outside and hole hop with 32" to 36" rods drilling lots of holes and watching the Marcum. Line twist IMO is greatly overblown on here and hyped by manufacturers. The best old guy fishermen in our county use my set-up cause I copied them because they ARE STILL the best. They use Sampo Swivels. They also use Trilene mono, Lol.

five fathoms · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 10, 2015, 07:25 PM »

Brown-time, you've convinced me. Next trip out, my rods will be sporting swivels. They may not be a permanent addition, but it's worthwhile to experiment.

Chris338378 · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 21, 2015, 03:59 AM »

If you're worried about the knots tie Polmar (not sure I spelled that right) knots, I never had one pull free. If you don't want to go that route why not use a cheap bait caster reel? The line lays and comes off the same as it does on the inline reels.

Muskyrush · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 24, 2015, 11:05 AM »

Eagle claw makes a #14 power swivel and vmc make a #12 power swivel. I tie them onto my mustard then use a 18"-24" flouro leader.

Van_Cleaver · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 30, 2015, 06:56 AM »

I almost never open my spinning reel bail when ice fishing, albeit most of my work is shallow 30' or less. Instead I pull the line off against the drag which also stretches it. Naturally if you re jigging in 100' this isn't too practical

Raquettedacker · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 30, 2015, 08:27 AM »

Using a spinning reel just put it in back reel and lower it. Takes getting use to but it works....

hardwater diehard · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 30, 2015, 09:21 AM »

If you fish skinny water you can peel off twice the depth and pre stretching out and reel it back on the reel spool .

slipperybob · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 14, 2015, 03:13 AM »

Part of the reason why I've gone to baitcasting reel. If its an issue of getting deep fast, then its mostly lure weight. If your lure is 1/8 oz. or heavier, it's more than enough to pull line freespooling from your baitcasting reel. Finessing, I use a $200 baitcasting reel. For plain heavy dirty fishing, a cheapo $20 graphite frame baitcasting reel on an ugly stik gets the job done.

BlackDogAlpha · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 15, 2015, 02:35 PM »

The only reason I like the Eagle Claw inline is that it lets you (most of the time) do a instant drop to depth by free spooling. I havent noticed on my tungsten jigs a lot of line twist but even freespooling you can get a back snarl if it comes off the spool sideways. I only have one of those, and 2 other jig rods with spinning reels. Each one seems to have its advantages and disadvantages depending on if Im fishing lake trout or panfish, how much they ice up, etc. I think I may buy another inline as its a lot faster to the fish, but if you buy the eagle claws/frabill with the side button, do yourself a huge favor and throw some locktite on the outscrew for the button, it has a knack of falling off. Cabelas was out except for one on the shelf that was missing that button, and I actually looked under the display and found it to make a sale. The drag system sucks, the friction points are either full on or freespool, dont depend on it.
Does anyone have a better choice for an inline?

Elkhnter · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 01, 2015, 08:57 PM »

Five Fathom- If you read rapalas "Jigging Rap or Jigging Shad Rap" back of the package it will tell you what others have been saying.
1) Cut a 12-18 inch piece of fishing line "Yes any kind will work" tie one end of the line directly to the lure, on the other tie on a barrel swivel. Then on the line coming off of your rod tie on a swivel. Hook the swivel on to the barrel swivel and you will never have line twist again..

The secret is tieing directly to the lure and putting a barrel swivel on the other end- eleminates line twist!!!!

nocod · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 01, 2015, 09:11 PM »

Quote from: Elkhnter on Dec 01, 2015, 08:57 PM

Five Fathom- If you read rapalas "Jigging Rap or Jigging Shad Rap" back of the package it will tell you what others have been saying.
1) Cut a 12-18 inch piece of fishing line "Yes any kind will work" tie one end of the line directly to the lure, on the other tie on a barrel swivel. Then on the line coming off of your rod tie on a swivel. Hook the swivel on to the barrel swivel and you will never have line twist again..

The secret is tieing directly to the lure and putting a barrel swivel on the other end- eleminates line twist!!!!

that's how I do it,when it's really cold I will grin and bear line twist.

lippy · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 01, 2015, 10:14 PM »

Elkhunter you are saying to use two swivels? a barrel and a snap on the end of your main line.

slipperybob · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 02, 2015, 12:46 AM »

Two is better than one.

I usually only attach to a snap swivel, but if my intention is stick to just a chubby darter or jigging rap, then I would have that extra swivel about two feet up.

Ice Rambo · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 10, 2015, 03:40 PM »

A fly fishing leader straightener works decent at times.

Elkhnter · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 10, 2015, 04:23 PM »

Lippy: Yes two swivels a barrel swivel on the line tied to your jig and a regular snap swivel on your rod that way you can unclip your jigging rap/jigging shad rap and replace it with another jigging rap or jigging shad rap quickly.

When I replace a jig I just wrap the line around it and its ready to go again when I want to go back to it.

2MuchStuff · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 09, 2016, 02:25 PM »

saw an article in a outdoor news ,I think cant seem to find it now .
the writer was saying when the fish are being finicky,twist line between finger and thumb
to impart a spin and trigger non agressive fish to strike.
I'll go and see if I cant find it.

slipperybob · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 10, 2016, 10:48 AM »

LOL, putting on line coils. It's far easier to move the knot on your jig to the side. It will cause your jig to do an offset darting while you jig it. If you rip it, it will do circular motions.

stripernut · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 10, 2016, 11:02 AM »

I have posted this before; If you are going to use a swivel then the best one to use is a Sampo Ball Bearing Swivel or a Spro Ball Bearing. Almost all the swivels on the market, do not turn under torque, Sampo and Spro are the only ones that do . Yes they cost more, but none of the others work at all, so the money spent on them is a complete waste. It always makes me laugh when I look at a wall of swivels in a tackle shop and almost all of them are only good as a sliding weight stopper. Don't take my word for it, hang some (small) weights on a line with a swivel tied in the middle and give the weight a spin (as I have done). In almost every case you will find that the whole line spins and the swivel never breaks free and lets the lower section spin by itself. With a Sampo or Spro the lower section will spin. Barrel swivels should not even be called swivels in my book. They just don’t have the low friction needed to keep the line from spinning. Keep in mind just how easy it is to spin a line and how a swivel needs to be very near to friction free to actual to work. That is why most don’t.

hardwater diehard · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 10, 2016, 11:41 AM »

Last season bought some BPS BB swivels ...via my AV Micro 5 I was able to my jig spin like a top ...so stripernut your post is well noted ..I just thought it was the lite line/ jigging cadence phenomenon and was unable to be corrected .

2MuchStuff · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 12, 2016, 01:24 AM »

The article I mentioned earlier was online at lake-link, authored by Steve Ryan.
ten ice fishing tips
check it out.

Johnsonarcher · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 12, 2016, 08:56 AM »

I know in the main post you said that inline reels weren't an option, but have you looked at some of the newer model inlines? The Eagle Claw inline has a 2.6:1 ratio and a free spool drop. I'm not sure why that wouldn't work just as well as your spinning reels and eliminate the twist at the same time.

http://www.fish307.com/eagle-claw-inline-ice-reels/

slipperybob · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 12, 2016, 12:06 PM »

Everyone has a preference for themselves. For years people insisted that fly reels, schooleys, swish, and inline reels can't/shouldn't/wouldn't/couldn't be fished deep. Does everyone have to believe or conform to that? Be flexible and adapt to fishing conditions, and where the biting fish will be at.

News:

Author Topic: Eliminating Line Twist (Read 8113 times)