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So color me crazy for sitting here in 90* heat thinking about ice fishing...but it's what I do. With that...I recently purchased a drill to use with my auger this winter. It has 600 in. lb. of torque so it's pretty strong. Questions are, should I use it on the hammer or drill setting and because there IS the chance of "wrenching" my hand, should I wear a wrist wrap/support to help prevent it from happening?
No just got to get a good hold of the drill don't ware gloves with it .. or wet hands any thing that might help it slip out easier..
So far neither channel locks or my bare hands have worked. Wondering if maybe some liquid wrench up at the base of the bit would work?
Similiar thing happened to one our utah membershttps://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=346616.msg3690496#msg3690496I've had mine freeze up once but was able to get it loose with some channels without marring it up to bad. I do keep it lubed up now and dont over tighten it when sinching it down. I only make it click just a couple of times is plenty, no need to go another 1/4 turn of clicking even though it will do it
Thanks for the tips. I think the issue is when she tightened the chuck, the bit wasn't centered. I will give the channel lock another shot, although i already have scratched it up pretty good. Maybe i will give the vice a shot as well
Have you tried just putting the drill in reverse and holding on to the chuck? Try that if you haven't.DN
I was replying to the op's thread about needING a arm brace .. but any how glad you got it unjammed atc..
Apologies, I was caught up in my own little world I guess!
you guys must all be turning 8" augers or something...I've been using a 525 in lb, 20v, 2ah drill with a 5" mora (1 year) or 5" lazer (4 years now) setup with 0 problems. I've never killed both my batteries no matter how cold or thick the ice has beenIceassin what auger are you looking to pair up to your drill? Thats the most important factor to determine how well its going to work
if your used to using these types of tools you should be fine. just always use two hands even if clearing a slightly froze over ice hole. that's when it can bite you when you least expect it. keep every thing close to your body and try not to over extend your arms. you loose stability that way. many of us lean the drill onto our person for better control.if your not used to it, then maybe a drill plate such as the ice kicker 2 would be better for your safety and slightly under powered drill or if you want to turn a larger auger.a few have been seriously hurt with their high torque drills last season. with casing breaking where the auxiliary handle attaches. two went to the hospital from members of this site that we know of so far.always use sharp blades and if you have to push down then they are dull or misaligned and your asking for trouble unless you address the problem. the weight of the drill and auger is enough to cut ice. getting thru the last turn of a large auger can get caught, so lift up some when you know its almost done cutting. i keep the blade turning after the cut to clear the hole of shaving. always keep the same angle once you've committed to the hole your cutting and never change it. this can ruin your blades alignment and catch the side of the hole and bind.some say nills and mora have the cleanest "break thru" during the last revolution of the auger while others are more of an aggressive pitch to the blades and therefor bind more. so just learn to lift during that time to force the blades to take less material and problem solved.i use strike master lazers and never used any other brands.you'll need an adapter if not using a plate. make sure to get one that has a bungee or strap to hold onto the auger for when the chuck lets it go. you never know when that may happen. it happened to me once and that was enough.kovacs ice master is the adapter i prefer. you may have to buy an extension, but being your in michigan, it probably will never get used. only one season did i need mine so far in michigan. make sure that it is for hand augers if you decide to be prepared for thick ice.
i have a 4" lazer also, but i wouldn't try it one handed. i did wrench my wrist clearing slush from an already opened hole once and once is enough.the bit caught the side of the hole and that's all it took. i use a marcum shuttle that holds rods and a drill/auger and bring a scoop and i'm good setting the shuttle down and drill my hole(s) and then check them. i typically drill lots of holes unless i'm on a known hot spot or reopen my old holes.i use a 6" lazer for ice in the my area. if i go go north in northern lower michigan then i use a 4" for scouting and most often end up fishing from them not knowing if fish are there. if i'm setting up to be in a shelter then i use my 6" up there and not do much scouting.the icekicker idea is if you wanted to make big holes or have an under powered drill for the size hole you want to make.i like the retractable scoop idea. what version have you found works for this setup? kinda surprised no one sells it as a kit.
do not try drilling old holes. you will most likely ruin your blade and if not, you could get hurt when the blade suddenly jams in the hole. I would drill a new hole next to the old hole if you really want to fish that spot.