Crimper!

[MR.CRAPPIEMN]

What it the best crimper tool for crimping barrel crimps?

[Idahogator]

We can get the worst out of the way ~ pliers, vice-grips and hemostats. 

Here's a start:   Find them HERE            A bit spendy though.   

                             


Welcome Mr.CRAPPIEMN.

Could we trouble you to complete your profile by adding a "Location" ?       Thanks

[esox_xtm]

Before you settle on any tool or rush to buy be forewarned that most commonly available offerings in tackle store are not the best choice. Read through this and then decide. I do crimp heavy fluoro for musky leaders and consider this the best resource on the "how to" for crimping.

http://www.leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/crimp_techniques.html

[dogfish1]

Thomas and Betts sta-kon kits are by far the best. You can get kits with crimps and crimping pliers. I live in Canada and can get them at a number of locations including Home Depot. Also an electrician so I've seen them all.

[stinkyfingers]

The guys that really know this topic are the blue water boys. Somebody like Melton Tackle online has some top end stuff but at prices that'll curl your hair. Both Cabela's and BassPro have saltwater catalogs online also. I think I paid about $35-40 for mine but it does a satisfactory job. Forget the Vice-grips, they just mash 'em. Bad. Bad.

[NNYIceangler]

I use a set of Calcutta crimping pliers I picked up at a salt shop in NC .  I use them to make leaders in mono for the salt and for wire leaders for ice fishing....The work ok but I used to have a pair that worked alot better....Can't remember what they were.

[esox_xtm]

I own an entry level Mustad crimper, it was about $40. I works well for the light use I give it. Make sure the one you purchase has cups sized to the specific crimp you will use. Dimensions are usually in mm (or a decimal thereof). My two take aways from the article are:

     1.) A point to cup crimp or , worse yet, mashing with a pliers or vise-grip not only make a crappy connection but will most likely
          damage your line to the point of  greatly weakening it.

     2.) Proper crimping techniques are critical for reliability. Done correctly it is not necessary to tie, glue and crimp a connection.

The comments from above poster regarding the blue water community as a resource is spot on. That's where the info in the article comes from and even though LeaderTech has its own line of products the lessons there are generic and right on the money.

[2Bstreamin]

Anyone have experience using wire connector crimpers?

[bowmandan]

My wife makes jewelry so I "borrowed" her crimper to make mt quick strike rigs

[esox_xtm]

Anyone have experience using wire connector crimpers?

I know it's tempting but don't do it. They are general purpose crimpers intended for something very different than creating a quality, reliable leader/line connection. Anything other than a proper crimper you risk mashing the crimp, leading to sharp edges or damaged line/wire that will result in connection failure. That's not a question of "if", but when.

Check the link in Reply #2. Plenty of good info for wire and plastic both. Get proper size crimps for your material (it's diameter dependent), made of the right material (aluminum crimps only for plastic line, steel, brass or copper are OK for wire) and a decent crimper (cup to cup, forget the cheapie point to cup jobs).

It's easy and extremely reliable with the right tools. A reasonable investment will last you a lifetime.

[Coachkwj]

Started using 18 lb sevenstrand wite and tiny size 0 sleeves for pike leaders. Can't find a crimper that small and have been improvising so far with no mishaps. Any thought on a smaller crimper?

[esox_xtm]

Started using 18 lb sevenstrand wite and tiny size 0 sleeves for pike leaders. Can't find a crimper that small and have been improvising so far with no mishaps. Any thought on a smaller crimper?

Nylon coated or uncoated wire? If uncoated there's a much better crimpless connection. 100% reliable and no special tools.

[Coachkwj]

Nylon coated or uncoated wire? If uncoated there's a much better crimpless connection. 100% reliable and no special tools.

Uncoated of course.
Haywire twist? if not, lay it on me.

[esox_xtm]

Uncoated of course.
Haywire twist? if not, lay it on me.

Haywire is for solid/singlestrand wire. This is a variation of that and I've got links to this thread scattered all over the site. It's easy to re-post and even easier to make the connection. I know, it seems stupid simple and how can it ever hold up.

My PB on a leader made with this connection was on open water. A 20# leader as "crankbait insurance" on a bass rod, 53" musky hooked and nearly landed. When I went to lay the rod along side to get a quick measurement, I must have biffed her back and she bolted. Straightened two of the three trebles on the Storm Thunderstick but...... the leader and connection held up. 

Here you go:

http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=243422.msg2468614#msg2468614

Got any questions, I'm always happy to share....

[Coachkwj]

Definitely gonna give that a try! Thanks.

[walpy]

Not to thread-jack but.. what size crimp would I need for 20# flouro? I wanna try to make my own rigs rather than buy them.

[esox_xtm]

No need to crimp 20#, easy enough to tie. A Uni or Palomar will get that done with ease. Only reason to crimp might be to standardize the length of the leader. Pretty tough to do that with a knot. I can get close but not exact...

If you must, I've got 20# Hi-Seas Fluoro Leader material @ .016". The smallest aluminum crimps I come up with are .027" ID (per barrel so .054 total), a lotta slop means a much bigger than necessary mashed up crimp and a less than ideal connection. The smallest diameter sleeves/crimps I see available are matched with 40# leader.

If you're thinking that 20# will deal with toothy critters like pike you will likely be disappointed at some point. 50# would be my bare minimum and I'd even be nervous with that. Plastic just ain't cut proof (or even very resistant for that matter).

[AT Grimaldi]

Kinkaid hands down