IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Walleye => Topic started by: TheLionsFan on Jan 03, 2018, 06:38 AM
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Just spooled my reels with 6# Trilene Micro Ice, after normally using 8#. I switched to 6# but was told I should use a drag. Is this a good idea? And if so, how do I know how much to use? I’ve never used a drag before.
Thanks guys
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Drag on the reel is set with the drag knob...adjust by pulling the line with your hand until you set the tension to your liking..while fighting the fish and want more drag tighten, want less drag while fighting loosen. If you set the drag to tight you’ll either break the line or pull the hook.
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Drag on the reel is set with the drag knob...adjust by pulling the line with your hand until you set the tension to your liking..while fighting the fish and want more drag tighten, want less drag while fighting loosen. If you set the drag to tight you’ll either break the line or pull the hook.
Lol I know HOW to set it and what it’s for, but didn’t know if there was a certain way to know how much drag to use or not. I played around with it and set it, for now at least, to pull out with a decent amount of pull. Wouldn’t think an average size walleye for this body of water im fishing (18-22”) would break 6# THAT easy.
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I’ve never used a drag before.
Thanks guys
Never used a drag before? But know how to set it and what it’s for...ok
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I like to set it loose enough to slip some. If I notice my spool turning when reeling I will either tighten the drag or raise the rod and reel line in while lowering it to prevent line twist. I use 4 lb test on most of my ice reels.
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I know what knob “sets” it and what a drag is for. I have never “used” a drag and wondered if there were certain things I need to look for. Can’t believe I have to spell it out. Thanks for being cocky. Don’t need your “help” anymore.
What are you asking for exactly then? I'm interested to know what you're wondering about. I set my drag to barely be able to pick up my terminal/jig tackle box. About 1-2 lbs. Enough to where I can lift 1 end of it without picking it up completely. Its a noodle rod with a pflueger trion 1000 size reel, but it has the backbone when I really need it.
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My line of thinking is to use the drag to absorb about 50% of the fishes pulling power, to reduce strain on your line and rod. The proper use of drag will allow the you to use lighter gear to catch larger fish, and enjoy the fight in a powerful fish. In my mind this is more fun than over gearing and just "winching" the fish in. I had an Uncle who had a 7' rod and used 40lb test to fish for pike. He could bring a 5lb pike in like it was surfing! Where is the fun in that, although it was funny to watch.
dkruks
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What are you asking for exactly then? I'm interested to know what you're wondering about. I set my drag to barely be able to pick up my terminal/jig tackle box. About 1-2 lbs. Enough to where I can lift 1 end of it without picking it up completely. Its a noodle rod with a pflueger trion 1000 size reel, but it has the backbone when I really need it.
You pretty much answered what I was asking. I simply was just asking how do u know how much drag to set.
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Drag on the reel is set with the drag knob...adjust by pulling the line with your hand until you set the tension to your liking..while fighting the fish and want more drag tighten, want less drag while fighting loosen. If you set the drag to tight you’ll either break the line or pull the hook.
That's how it's done from the first reply. It will vary from reel to reel. Some are smooth, some are choppy.
Most of the tiny ultralight reels will only have a operational drag of up to 5#. Most of them should be set from 1 to 3 lbs of. So even a 6# line is usually above the drag.
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Drag gets set according to the pound test of the line...
Not species of fish...
For example, 10lb line, drag should start slipping at 8-9lbs..
I see a ton of millennials that don't get it, when the fish runs, let it take the drag, when you can gain some back, start reeling again.. If the drag is clicking, stop reeling!!! Same guys can never figure out how their line gets twisted lol...
The drag should hardly ever slip WHILE you are reeling...
They call it working a fish, not winding up string...
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Well put Ice Scratcher
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Well put Ice Scratcher
Thanks man...
Just to really help clear this up..
The drag's job is to dumb proof the fishermen from pulling too hard and snapping the line..
Theoretically, with the proper drag, and the right situation, you can bring a 40 pound fish in on 6lb test line..
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Thanks man...
Just to really help clear this up..
The drag's job is to dumb proof the fishermen from pulling too hard and snapping the line..
Theoretically, with the proper drag, and the right situation, you can bring a 40 pound fish in on 6lb test line..
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Not just theory...it's reality.
I pulled a sturgeon with 3# test ASSO ice fishing line. Sturgeon head was so big...gill plate was already the size of my 9" hole. I wish I had 6# test...
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Thanks Ice Scratcher. I appreciate the helpful response.
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Not just theory...it's reality.
I pulled a sturgeon with 3# test ASSO ice fishing line. Sturgeon head was so big...gill plate was already the size of my 9" hole. I wish I had 6# test...
Gill plate the size of the hole, yep, 6lb would have fixed that issue.. Lol That would be something awesome just get an eyeball look for a second...
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Thanks Ice Scratcher. I appreciate the helpful response.
You're welcome!!!
I think knowledge of ice fishing causes grumpiness..
So as grumpy as some of these guys are, try your best to get every morsel of knowledge from them. They won't be around forever..
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The son of a friend caught a 41" Musky with 6 lb while on the ice. He kept in on while his dad ran from shack to shack until he found someone with a gaff. Seemed like a long time I'll bet.
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Gill plate the size of the hole, yep, 6lb would have fixed that issue.. Lol That would be something awesome just get an eyeball look for a second...
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LOL I wasted all my time playing that one fish that day...tired me out and now I swear I've had enough of sturgeons biting my lure.
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I set drag by putting on a snap leader or swivel and then attaching that to the fence in my back yard. Doing this, I can pull the line with the rod to simulate the conditions of having a fish on. By just pulling the line directly from the reel you are not factoring in the resistance of the line sliding through your guides and your drag will probably be a little bit too tight. By just anchoring the line and pulling with the whole set-up you can set it exactly the way it will be when you've got the lunker of a lifetime on the hook. :)
It only takes one of those hard runs from a walleye or big northern that swims away with your favorite lure to regret not taking the time to set the drag correctly.
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I set drag by putting on a snap leader or swivel and then attaching that to the fence in my back yard. Doing this, I can pull the line with the rod to simulate the conditions of having a fish on. By just pulling the line directly from the reel you are not factoring in the resistance of the line sliding through your guides and your drag will probably be a little bit too tight. By just anchoring the line and pulling with the whole set-up you can set it exactly the way it will be when you've got the lunker of a lifetime on the hook. :)
It only takes one of those hard runs from a walleye or big northern that swims away with your favorite lure to regret not taking the time to set the drag correctly.
That is so true. The angle of the rod and line resistance from that also comes into play. Pikes are notorious to explode into a full speed run. I do change my drag setting for species of fish. I set much lower on pikes and trout. When played and I can winch up line, I will then increase my drag some to help with line winching.
In part sort of why I started using baitcasting reels. The drag adjustment is easier and faster. I can set on loose setting, help with feathering the spool on play.
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By just pulling the line directly from the reel you are not factoring in the resistance of the line sliding through your guides and your drag will probably be a little bit too tight.
I've noticed that too, ice rods are easy to set while under flexed load at least compared to soft water rods..
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Drag is so important, I used to fish Puget Sound heavy along with Columbia River for salmon/steelhead/sturgeon and the likes, many times we would adjust /test drag throughout fishing cause you never know what's gonna hit or how big. On the ice I have mine a little, just a little, loose until hooking up so I can manage drag per fight when reeling in. These are really good posts, good info especially for line strength and especially bringing the pole into account
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What has worked for me. Is to hook my line to my fish scale. If i am using 4lb line. I pull on it with the rod till i reach 2lbs on the scale. Then adjust my drag till it starts to slip at 2lbs. Did this for years with ice reels and open water reels. Now i just adjust it by hand. Really is not a big deal to adjust during the fight. One thing PWT guy told me years go. It is better to be a bit loose and have to adjust it tighter. Than to be to tight and break off.
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What has worked for me. Is to hook my line to my fish scale. If i am using 4lb line. I pull on it with the rod till i reach 2lbs on the scale. Then adjust my drag till it starts to slip at 2lbs. Did this for years with ice reels and open water reels. Now i just adjust it by hand. Really is not a big deal to adjust during the fight. One thing PWT guy told me years go. It is better to be a bit loose and have to adjust it tighter. Than to be to tight and break off.
Love that idea...but if you don't have a scale, I pull on line from end of rod...loosen...pull... loosen...pull...loosen until reel just begins to spin. You can tell if you need to loosen a little more if rod bends to almost it's limit and the reel isn't spinning...just loosen a bit more until it does. This method at least puts me in the ball park of where I should be, especially on lighter line...4# or less.
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I keep my drags pretty tight. Only loose enough to protect line OR rod. Line test is only one variable. If your line test is matched to your rod you're OK but if not (think 6# superline on a rod rated for 4#) it's a different story.
With these ultra-strong, very thin lines it's easy get way past the way past the capacity of your rod to handle it. Also keep in mind that most lines are underrated and generally test often much higher than the listed poundage.
On walleyes 18-22” shouldn't be "much" of an issue. I always count that I can land (at a minimum) a fish that weighs 3x the pound test of the line I'm using. 6# x 3 = 18# fish. Of course with some additional love and good fortune, much larger fish are possible.
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Great idea for fishing.