IceShanty.com's Ice Fishing Community
Ice Fishing Tips -Check your local regulations! => Ice Shack Tips => Topic started by: J_Edwards on Dec 05, 2013, 08:22 PM
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Here's last nights project. Rocker switch controls the lights. USB charger for go pro and phone, aux charger for anything else that might need juice. Wired through an auto fuse block in case of shorts. All tucked into a 30 cal ammo can. The hole beside the rocker is to bring in the shacks LED wiring. After reading a bunch of posts, I came up with this so I could swap in and out of my shacks.
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/7A19D686-794B-4ABE-BF2A-4D0B1B96486D_zps0xwdabgk.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/7A19D686-794B-4ABE-BF2A-4D0B1B96486D_zps0xwdabgk.jpg.html)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/DBDC5433-06B8-4E7F-97E1-408B4593A4F0_zps1onzxmf1.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DBDC5433-06B8-4E7F-97E1-408B4593A4F0_zps1onzxmf1.jpg.html)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/5DE17B84-EC74-4E70-BD30-776718854719_zpsuthtdthu.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5DE17B84-EC74-4E70-BD30-776718854719_zpsuthtdthu.jpg.html)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/4A3C00EE-E315-40B3-A958-1A4409EB2C64_zps2nhcb7r1.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4A3C00EE-E315-40B3-A958-1A4409EB2C64_zps2nhcb7r1.jpg.html)
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Nice job
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Thats pretty cool. Nice and clean looking too! I have something similar however turned into a bit of a wired mess.mine does the job but I wouldn't want to share any pics of my setup!:)
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What did you use for the electrical 'base' so to speak? Some kind of splitter. Just not sure what they are called. Link by chance? Thanks and nice job. Want to build one.
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That's just an automotive fuse block. You can get various versions for around 10$. I paid $20, but I wanted a ground on mine too, straight power blocks are dirt cheap. If you google auto fuse block you'll see several options.
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Not bad!
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you should sell them!
i like it!
maybe use some split wire loom in place of the tape bundling the wires or a chunk of heat shrink tube, if you want a cleaner job to sell them
did you look into circuit breakers, that auto reset, so you are not w/o fuses?
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I really didn't consider it. The fuses are way over rated for what they'll draw. They are short circuit protection more than anything.
I thought about loom, but mine was too big and we've had freezing rain for the 25 hours and haven't wanted to venture out. So, I just used tape in the areas that could get pinched.. I'll probably clean it up at some point.
I'm not so sure they'd sell hot, but I could draw up an easy how to, the parts are pretty cheap.
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That is awesome I have now put one on my to make list. ;D
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That box is really nice!
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I really didn't consider it. The fuses are way over rated for what they'll draw. They are short circuit protection more than anything.
I thought about loom, but mine was too big and we've had freezing rain for the 25 hours and haven't wanted to venture out. So, I just used tape in the areas that could get pinched.. I'll probably clean it up at some point.
I'm not so sure they'd sell hot, but I could draw up an easy how to, the parts are pretty cheap.
Easy how to and parts would be awesome!
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I'll work on it, but the weekend is coming, so I'm gearing up to fish. It'll be next week before it's up.
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Clean work!
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Looks good. Im workin on a more permanent console. Got parts ordered. Just gotta put it all together. Very nice for flipping shelters
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Wow. you putting a TV in next.lol. looks nice .clutter free.
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Nice job!
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I'm looking at doing the same thing with 3 batteries wired in parallel to get a 21ah 12 volt, I just need to figure out how to mount them in my 2 man flip over.
Where did you find the USB plug? Does it have built-in 12v down to 5V
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Great job and excellent idea. Well done :clap: :clap:
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Brilliant idead
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Thanks now I'll have to build one
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I'm looking at doing the same thing with 3 batteries wired in parallel to get a 21ah 12 volt, I just need to figure out how to mount them in my 2 man flip over.
Where did you find the USB plug? Does it have built-in 12v down to 5V
here is the set I just ordered
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Set-Auto-Car-Motorcycle-Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter-USB-Charger-Socket-DC-12V-/331070387550?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1555355e&vxp=mtr
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I really didn't consider it. The fuses are way over rated for what they'll draw. They are short circuit protection more than anything.
I thought about loom, but mine was too big and we've had freezing rain for the 25 hours and haven't wanted to venture out. So, I just used tape in the areas that could get pinched.. I'll probably clean it up at some point.
I'm not so sure they'd sell hot, but I could draw up an easy how to, the parts are pretty cheap.
could sell it ready to go except for the battery to keep shipping costs down
maybe ask around your area local small stores to see if they would do consignments with you
put it up on ebay and craigs list
i think you could be rich!
others might be thinking the same and some big company will go and put their copyright on it
go go go!
are you still sitting there reading this?
if you are, then you could make different types/styles like led(s) for flash light beam on small side with a switch for it or on all sides to make a lantern of sorts or area lamp. maybe make one wall lexan and have it loaded with led's behind it. or find out what the smallest tv is and make it mountable behind the lexan plate.
add speakers and speaker jack, maybe a small amp.
you could add more accessory jacks or less to have different price points.
find a smaller water proof box to make it more compact
offer it with multi battery hook-ups
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Great job....I like it.
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All very good ideas, but I'm not sure I have the time to commit to filling orders. Got a little one on the way and lots of fishing to do.
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All very good ideas, but I'm not sure I have the time to commit to filling orders. Got a little one on the way and lots of fishing to do.
Farm it out to Furman he likes building baits and playing with his toys more than fishing anyway LOL
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All very good ideas, but I'm not sure I have the time to commit to filling orders. Got a little one on the way and lots of fishing to do.
First, great job. Could you list materials and cost for the rest of us? Secondly, and mort importantly, congrats and good luck and health for the little one on the way.
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Farm it out to Furman he likes building baits and playing with his toys more than fishing anyway LOL
Hahaha, too true!
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First, great job. Could you list materials and cost for the rest of us? Secondly, and mort importantly, congrats and good luck and health for the little one on the way.
I'll put a parts list together real soon.
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I'll put a parts list together real soon.
Sweet! I'm an idiot and would need all the help I could get...
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Would like to know where you got the usb plug too?
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Would like to know where you got the usb plug too?
Scroll up about 8 posts and follow the link he posted.
Q
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Scroll up about 8 posts and follow the link he posted.
That is not the op, that kit is different
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Would like to know where you got the usb plug too?
make sure 1 amp is all you need, because thats what that one is.
most newer devices want 2 amp
check dx dot com for electronics and then some. one of my favorite sites
new one here in the states just made is usd.dx dot com
had not the time to scope it out yet
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0082CXEI8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_2
This is the one I used. USB 2.0 compatable.
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Not a huge fan of amazon, but prime is the only way to roll up here or you'll go broke paying for shipping.
Ammo Can
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051F9CWQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB socket
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aux socket
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRC5Y/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Switch
http://www.amazon.com/NTE-On-None-Off-Lighted-Waterproof-Switch/dp/B007Z7L8A2/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1386525273&sr=8-49&keywords=rocker+switch
A similar fuse block
I got mine from Napa. It was only a 4 place. The biggest thing for me was, the common ground, any that has that will work find.
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thanks for the idea and sharing the time used to give out a parts list
should be plenty of DIY'ers getting parts ready
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Here's one I did last year, but I used a toolbox instead.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img526/9318/imag0028cx.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/a/img19/1536/imag0011fx.jpg)
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Farm it out to Furman he likes building baits and playing with his toys more than fishing anyway LOL
it Fuhrman, and yes i like money lol
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Good show Henry...you da man. I'm out to the garage man! Thanks.
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Here's one I did last year, but I used a toolbox instead.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img526/9318/imag0028cx.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/a/img19/1536/imag0011fx.jpg)
Sweet! It's a boom box too!
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Sweet! It's a boom box too!
Boom Box? I haven't heard that since the late 80's early 90's. Lol
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Very nice!
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Here's last nights project. Rocker switch controls the lights. USB charger for go pro and phone, aux charger for anything else that might need juice. Wired through an auto fuse block in case of shorts. All tucked into a 30 cal ammo can. The hole beside the rocker is to bring in the shacks LED wiring. After reading a bunch of posts, I came up with this so I could swap in and out of my shacks.
Where did you get that fuse block from? I can't seems to find one that small.
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I got it from napa. Part Number: 7823206
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THANK YOU!!
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You're welcome!
Tight lines
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Boom Box? I haven't heard that since the late 80's early 90's. Lol
;D
All those years ago when we were in high school ;D ;D ;)
Missed this earlier.
As far as the box, I'm modding it already, I'm going to add a dimmer.
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Henry.
Would you mind if I posted my work in progress inspired by your build? Maybe this will get turned into a sticky on power box builds?
Otherwise I can go start another thread, just don't want to crap in your thread.
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Go for it man. Maybe I'll get some more ideas. :thumbsup:
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Excellent!
I present to you the Undead Power Box.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_195801_703_zpsp2vohwa2.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_195801_703_zpsp2vohwa2.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/9d623f7d-d03a-4515-8c5a-bba9864dd6c4_zpseb06c0f7.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/9d623f7d-d03a-4515-8c5a-bba9864dd6c4_zpseb06c0f7.jpg.html)
Ok so I got a little carried away with the batteries, but they fit so nicely! ;D
Digital voltmeter display, 1/4 20 stainless posts, box LEDs and USB charger are waiting inline to be installed.
I should have more progress pictures later tonight.
Thank you again Henry for the circuit breaker part number, it fits in nicely!
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Nice work! ;D
I've been planning on another battery, I think I think I'll add a voltmeter too, that's a dang fine idea, thanks ;D
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Glad I could return the favor. :thumbsup:
12v 36ah should last a while. If my Sonar dies I can steal a battery out of it.
The voltmeter will be on a switch, no need for it to be on all the time.
House Lights and USB charger on the same switch. External box lights on a switch.
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Great ideas!
That's not the .30 ammo can is it? It looks bigger, I can't tell for sure. If it's the 30, you might have to turn those batteries on their sides. I had an issue with the terminal side of my aux and usb plugs hitting my battery, so I set it on it's side.
How are you going to secure yours? I used industrial strength double sided velcro.
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I believe its the 30cal can. What are the dimensions on yours? 14 x 9 x 8 inches ?
The USB plug and some other parts are on their way here. Looks like it will be next week sometime before I get to see if the USB plug will hit.
If it does I'll pull a battery to make room.
This is the usb port.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Going to use this voltmeter.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B689UGA/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B689UGA/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Planned on securing the batteries with velcro straps or a bar across the top bolted on both ends.
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If you used the can I listed, it's the same, I'm too lazy to go measure at the moment.. I have a beer in hand and am watching football ::)
The plugs contacts will bump the batteries if it's the same, you could bend them out or lay them on their side.
I'm ordering that indicator, that is perfect ;D
Thank you!
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I think its the same box. Time will tell.
Reached my goal tonight. Got the posts for the house lighting installed.
Getting out this weekend to do some fishing with it, I can't wait!
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_205541_276_zpsh0rl1ebs.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_205541_276_zpsh0rl1ebs.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_215533_482_zpsczrv6ny5.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_215533_482_zpsczrv6ny5.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_214420_908_zpsu6t9xvfu.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_214420_908_zpsu6t9xvfu.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_214631_044_zpsvkbqg0vy.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_214631_044_zpsvkbqg0vy.jpg.html)
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Hey Lateseason, when you put those batteries on charge do yo do one at a time or all at once? Nice set up on all of these. I'm building one too. I was thinking on the battery level meter from vexliar, and the quick connect charge plug too.
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Looking very good!
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I don't believe there is a need to remove the batteries to charge them. Just need to leave the switch on and they should charge, albeit it will take a while.
Checked the voltage on the posts it read 12.66v. I'll see what it says in the morning and if the charger shows they are full.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_221545_469_zpsjtakwkwe.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_221545_469_zpsjtakwkwe.jpg.html)
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Thats kind of what I meant to ask. And what I was wondering is if you can use the same charger that vexliar uses. It has a green light when fully charged. I was thinking a two battery set up. And that LED meter, wouldn't it always read 12volts??? Sorry I am confused on that one.
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Thats kind of what I meant to ask. And what I was wondering is if you can use the same charger that vexliar uses. It has a green light when fully charged. I was thinking a two battery set up. And that LED meter, wouldn't it always read 12volts??? Sorry I am confused on that one.
As the battery drains the voltage drops, good indicator on how fresh your batteries are and if they need a recharge.
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Thats kind of what I meant to ask. And what I was wondering is if you can use the same charger that vexliar uses. It has a green light when fully charged. I was thinking a two battery set up. And that LED meter, wouldn't it always read 12volts??? Sorry I am confused on that one.
multi-batteries on a single charger is the same as mutli-cell batteries. meaning the first cell/battery will get the most charge first and then the second and so. problem is the last one gets the least while the first one is getting pounded to try to get the last cell/battery filled. the battery can't say i have too much in one cell and too little in the rest, so it gets over charged sort of speaking. i used to build R/C car boat batteries and know some about this problem with batteries. also the matching of them. when add say 5 batteries in line and one is say a faster charging than say the slowest battery, you will over charge the one that charges first. so matching helps with this problem, but it will be very hard to match them your selves, because you would have to have a lot of them and write down how fast each one took it's charge and how fast it discharged and put together the ones that came the closet to each other in those times.
this happens with-in a single battery with multiple cells (each cell is 2 volts and there are 6 cells, so you have to think 6 batteries in the case) like what we are using here, so the first cell gets the first of the charge and so on. so the first cell gets over charged to try to get the last cell charged. it's kind of like water flowing thru it to wash the battery out. it comes in one side and out the other side, so the in side will get clean first and the out side would be last, but instead it is energy.
if it was me making a multi-battery box, i would at least put a number on each one, say 1 thru 4. try to match them the best you can, meaning find out which one charges the fastest and then the slowest. put the slowest charging battery first in line and fastest at the end. the front of the line in a dc is the negative line. flows from negative to positive. so put the fastest charging battery at the positive end of the chain.
i guess the best way to try to match sla batteries with out a digital charger will be to drain each one down to 12 volts using say a spot light. use a digital multi meter (dmm) to reach the 12 volt mark and then put it on the charger for say 2 minutes or there abouts and but pick the number to be exact and then take your reading. write down what the voltage was. move on to the next and next. you'll see which one is fast and which one is slow at charging at least.
these types of batteries are durable and will work any way you choose to install them and will work for a long time.
all i am saying is if you want the very best from them for longevity and improved runs times. if you don't have or want to try to match them. then rotate them so one is not always in the front of the charge like bike racers that take turns who has the load and who has it the least load in the rear.
also, the chargers that come with sonars are in my opinion a starter charger only. the battery tender jr is the best 4 stage charger for the money and it is what i am using until i find a better one
the box's are looking great!
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WOW awsome idea ...I bought an ammo box in early november ....for storage of two 2 foot LED lights and a battery ...thought about putting in the switch and some posts ....most of my thinking and planning are over... Thanks guys... great job.
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Thank you for that insight, it makes perfect sense.
Can you burn out a battery by overcharging it every time? Would that be a concern with these batteries?
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thank you 3300, I hate to ask so called dumb questions but when I don't know about something I get things rolling in my head that make me ask them. LOL That makes since and if I went with two I would problably just rotate them. So I will probably look for that charger too.
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no question is dumb in my eyes. if your asking, your are smart enough to ask.
i ask questions some might think are dumb, but i am asking so that only means i don't know the answer and want to know it.
smart chargers, like the battery tender jr will not over charge a battery, but it can not see whats going on completely in the battery, but has a good understanding and is designed to do it well using 4 stages. it can not change the facts i mentioned nor does it know if you add more than one battery to it's circuit. i know batteries better than chargers even tho i used to build my chargers for RC cars ect, but those are different, because we try to cram in as much as possible in the least amount of time.
the sla battery does take a punishment unlike the gel cell batteries. if you hit those too hard one time, it's all done. you push the gel away from the plates and it can't return to touch them, so it's toast.
every time we charge a sla battery the first cell does basically over charge and thats what ruins them in time, but a long time .
i posted this because we have no real control over a single battery pack other than type of charger, but when i saw the ones using more than one battery, thats when i wanted to share what i know about them. matching any thing that uses more than one is always best, like say a spark plug. buy all the same and gap them all the same, replace them all the same.
another way to over come multi-battery charging is simple, but time consuming. charge each one, one at a time or have one charge for each battery. leave the load circuit open.
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Got out yesterday and used the box. It worked amazingly well and the 6" strip of LEDs is awesome!
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/HouseLighting_zps09d40afa.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/HouseLighting_zps09d40afa.jpg.html)
Made a few changed though. Used the U shaped ends to connect to the posts instead of the loop ends.
Pain in the rear taking wingnuts off and on. Especially in the dark, which brings me to the second change.
When you disconnect at night you are plunged into darkness. Not anymore!!!!
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131215_171042_916_zps3q8owlaj.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131215_171042_916_zps3q8owlaj.jpg.html)
Its a lot brighter than what the picture shows.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131215_172548_669_zpsers9yr35.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131215_172548_669_zpsers9yr35.jpg.html)
Waiting on my amazon order to install a separate switch for those lights. The journey continues...
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awesome!
that person picture makes me feel like i took the wrong pill today. memories...
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Crappy job centering, oh well
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/2C601999-C94E-4BAB-8FDC-407308CF3AD2_zpsxakxzqr1.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2C601999-C94E-4BAB-8FDC-407308CF3AD2_zpsxakxzqr1.jpg.html)
Dimmer upgrade
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/A622E37A-092D-4EFC-9961-6B65D9149C3A_zpsy2icxhv5.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A622E37A-092D-4EFC-9961-6B65D9149C3A_zpsy2icxhv5.jpg.html)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu281/hardwater/Mobile%20Uploads/DEF392E2-1659-4D97-81BE-33E403367536_zpsa9brfguy.jpg) (http://s656.photobucket.com/user/hardwater/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DEF392E2-1659-4D97-81BE-33E403367536_zpsa9brfguy.jpg.html)
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Nice progress and the wire management sure cleaned it up! How useful is the dimmer and have you tried out your setup on the ice?
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I have had the box out a few times. No worries on battery life on day trips.
The dimmer is a little touchy. The lights were so bright and the dimmer was so cheap, it was worth it I guess.
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Let me first start by saying these power boxes are truly works of art. I can see a lot of time has gone into these. Nice work guys.
My question is are these boxes so elaborate and big because you are running multiple items at once off of them? The reason I ask is because I just bought the Clam Power Center to use for my LED bar in low light and charging my iPhone during the day. My flasher is run on its own battery so the only thing running on the battery I will put in the power center is are the lights and my phone charger. Will I be cutting myself short and running out of battery throughout the day?
Sorry for the ignorant question but I'm fairly new to modding my portable. Thanks in advance.
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They are fairly small at 7.4" (L) x 13.5" (W) x 5.1" (H)
I just wanted a clean method to run the lights in two different flip overs. I also wanted to keep my phone and camera charged just in case.
I've ran my lights a few hours and only noticed minimal voltage drops. I haven't ran lights while charging anything. I think I should be able to get a quick charge out of my phone or camera, I am not sure about both.
I can easily add another battery with minor tweaking and I think I will soon.
I would assume, with out crunching numbers, you'll be fine with a single battery. I don't know about you, but I don't run lights during the day, maybe a quick flip on to look around. If you're talking all a nighter, I'd probably bring a spare.
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In my case I wanted to be able to keep my phone charged and have lights for as long as I'm on the lake also have a back up batter for the Marcum.
I should have more than enough battery for the job on a weekend stay over.
There are a couple lakes that will drain my droid razor maxx in 4-5 hours because its constantly hunting for signal.
I also suffer from a horrible disease call mod-itis. Can never seem to leave well enough alone and have to constantly tinker.
The power box fits nicely in the Otter sled and I have plenty of room for it.
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I've charged my phone and ran a small 9" led light strip on the clam battery setup for 5-6 hours straight before. The lights never dimmed. I didn't check the voltage after but it did take about 2-3 hours to charge back up. This is a 12 9ah battery.
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split loom cleaned it up tons and i know you are happy with it. looks nice and good job! you should ask a local bait store to put one up for consignment and see ho wit goes. i know you said your too busy, but do it at your leisure
charging phones/droids/ipods/ ect will be a walk in the park for a 12 v battery because the the devices only use 5 v to charge. so no worries there, unless you run the battery too low at any time
heres another one for you tinkerers, add a short strip of led to the bottom of your sonar so when it's tilt out to view it, it will light up the ice and hole and be a fish attractant all at one time. i'm adding one today with water proof double sided tape. removing the crap tape from back of strips, running a wireless remote control to adjust brightness and off/on and using the sonar battery to power it. since the warranty is gone, i might crack it open to add a on/off potentiometer to the head unit instead in a front corner. i use an ice-55 bird
you would think (after figuring it out) that the manufactures should have the option built-in. another way would be to afix some up and inside the soft case so it shines down across the face of the sonar and down to the ice/hole so you are not blinded by the flashing optics of the sonar. i might work on that next too. will need abracket of sorts to tape to top of sonar to tape a strip to the bottom of it to extend over the face of the sonar or go up into the case some how
i was playing around with short (3) led strips direct to battery and they were burning out. not sure what thats all about yet as they are cut-able in groups of 3's. so test yours and let them run a while before you mount them to find the duds
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That's a great idea! Post pictures of it in use please.
To bad I can't use any powered light source as an attractant in MN. Probably why it hasn't been put in place by the manufacturers, legal reasons.
I'm trying to get a rough idea on how long a battery will last based on estimated draw. Found some formulas that I think should get me close. Please let me know if its off.
For me to run the full roll of LED's, which is 15' long. Amazon tells me its 12v 24watt.
Watts is the fundamental unit of power and watt-hours is the energy stored. The key is to use the watts you know to calculate the amps at the battery voltage .
For example, say I want to run the 24 watt 12V light strip for 24 hours
Watt-hours = watts * hours = 24 watts * 24 hours = 576 watt hours
Since watts = amps * volts divide the watt hours by the voltage of the battery to get amp-hours of battery storage
Amp-hours (at 12 volts) = watt-hours / 12 volts = 576 / 12 = 48 amp-hours.
If you are using a different voltage battery the amp-hours will change by dividing it by the battery voltage you are using.
Since i'm running a 6' section of LEDs we will say its 12watts. And the power box is 12v 36ah. Ideally I should get 36 hours of continuous use of the LED's.
This math gets real easy since 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
1amp * 24 hours - 24 amp hours
1amp * 36 hours - 36 amp hours
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maybe fall into the gray area of your law if it's not called a fish attractant, but is in fact a sonar light to see your controls of your sonar. would be up to the man if he thinks it is or isn't.
i am bad at math, but reading what you want to know about battery life is made easier by using a dimmer because it pulses (on/off) the battery to get the brightness you want. so thats the first step and if you use remote control like i am, it is even easier to turn them on/off/bright/dim and from a good distance so you don't have to open a box to crank a knob or get to a box to flip a switch.
then, because you are using slightly less than one quarter of the 15' = 24 watts reel, that takes your wattage down to say 5 watts at full brightness. you shouldn't need them on bright or if you do, not for long, but you will want ambient light to emit from it all of nite. so turn it down to say 25% to do that. then that means you are only using 25% of 5 watts so 1.25 watts for low light usage is good. now use your calculator to finish those specs if you want real run time hours
i won't be on any ice soon around here. maybe early january is what is shaping up for my area to be on "safe ice", so picture of it in use will have to wait from me. i could get you one of it on the carpet after it's done or a youtube
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Got out yesterday and used the box. It worked amazingly well and the 6" strip of LEDs is awesome!
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/HouseLighting_zps09d40afa.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/HouseLighting_zps09d40afa.jpg.html)
Made a few changed though. Used the U shaped ends to connect to the posts instead of the loop ends.
Pain in the rear taking wingnuts off and on. Especially in the dark, which brings me to the second change.
When you disconnect at night you are plunged into darkness. Not anymore!!!!
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131215_171042_916_zps3q8owlaj.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131215_171042_916_zps3q8owlaj.jpg.html)
Its a lot brighter than what the picture shows.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131215_172548_669_zpsers9yr35.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131215_172548_669_zpsers9yr35.jpg.html)
Waiting on my amazon order to install a separate switch for those lights. The journey continues...
How did the spreader bars work with the LED lights? Did they just clip over top of them?
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Two sided tape on the back of the LED's. I just curved the placement of the light string in the areas that the spreader bars would be so they don't hit the lights.
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Thanks henrychinaski for a absolute great idea! I finished mine up this weekend. On the top right hand side of the box is where my lights plug in.
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a3cc02b3127ccef4ba639b603c00000030O00AaNGrFi5cMmgPbz4c/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00402891154420131223152117715.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
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You're welcome! Very nice, very clean!
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Still waiting on my parts from Amazon. I love when it initially ships via FEDEX then gets transferred to UPS and now looks like its getting delivered via USPS.
Taken 10 days so far...
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For those of you that have already made a power box. What specifically are you using to wire the LED strips to the power supply? Also, how long will a full 16 foot section of LEDs run on a fully charged 12V vexilar battery? I am debating if I need to trim my LED strip or put together a power box to run my lights instead of connecting them to my vexilar battery. Thanks for the input!
Sorry if someone has answered similar questions recently. I've been following this conversation but didn't go back through all 5 pages of comments to double check old posts.
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See quoted text. Also mentioned on page 4 was to use a dimmer to extend the run time.
I'm trying to get a rough idea on how long a battery will last based on estimated draw. Found some formulas that I think should get me close. Please let me know if its off.
For me to run the full roll of LED's, which is 15' long. Amazon tells me its 12v 24watt.
Watts is the fundamental unit of power and watt-hours is the energy stored. The key is to use the watts you know to calculate the amps at the battery voltage .
For example, say I want to run the 24 watt 12V light strip for 24 hours
Watt-hours = watts * hours = 24 watts * 24 hours = 576 watt hours
Since watts = amps * volts divide the watt hours by the voltage of the battery to get amp-hours of battery storage
Amp-hours (at 12 volts) = watt-hours / 12 volts = 576 / 12 = 48 amp-hours.
If you are using a different voltage battery the amp-hours will change by dividing it by the battery voltage you are using.
Since i'm running a 6' section of LEDs we will say its 12watts. And the power box is 12v 36ah. Ideally I should get 36 hours of continuous use of the LED's.
This math gets real easy since 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp
1amp * 24 hours - 24 amp hours
1amp * 36 hours - 36 amp hours
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Done for now. Who knows what I'll end up changing after I use it more.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131223_230557_021_zps1ec81bf6.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131223_230557_021_zps1ec81bf6.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg.html)
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That's really cool LateSeason. How much does it weigh?
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well done :clap:
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I'm gonna have to build one soon.
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Done for now. Who knows what I'll end up changing after I use it more.
Now THAT..is bad a$$!!! I like the layout and design..
Lateseason you sure have skills. Do you use it with a shanty? I have a flip over, and for now, just have a RAVPower Luster Mini 3000mAh Lipstick Charger. Small and has a built in flashlight. Being I am unfortunately unable to have a shanty, I usually just do about 10 hrs on the ice. So having backup power for my cell is a good thing.
Thanks for the postings..
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good work
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Ran it today for ~ 5 hours today and went from 13v to 12.5v. That was charging my phone, and a mix of running the box lights and house lights.
So far, I see nothing that needs changing. Extremely please with how it turned out.
As far as weight goes. Haven't weighed it so i'm not sure. Probably ~25lbs with the 3 batteries in it.
Pictures from this evening.
Location in the house.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131225_132959_297_zps9859cc15.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131225_132959_297_zps9859cc15.jpg.html)
For the times when you don't want to run the house lights or need a light to glow jigs.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131225_164636_988_zpscqu7espq.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131225_164636_988_zpscqu7espq.jpg.html)
Leaving the lake.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131225_191100_184_zpsfbaa14a5.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131225_191100_184_zpsfbaa14a5.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131225_191144_540_zpseb3fd4d0.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131225_191144_540_zpseb3fd4d0.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131225_192103_832_zpseacddaf4.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131225_192103_832_zpseacddaf4.jpg.html)
Now go make your own and enjoy some evening/night fishing!!!
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I want one real bad!!! That is a great setup. Might just have to make one myself
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Sweet dude! I left my battery indicator on for a few days on purpose just to see what it would drain. The hole unit lost .3 in 3 days just sitting. When I've sat out all day, with lights on and charging my phone, I haven't even lost half a volt.... But Alaska days are mighty short, about 7 hours at the most.
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Sweet dude! I left my battery indicator on for a few days on purpose just to see what it would drain. The hole unit lost .3 in 3 days just sitting. When I've sat out all day, with lights on and charging my phone, I haven't even lost half a volt.... But Alaska days are mighty short, about 7 hours at the most.
SaaweeeT!! Good to know for early ice when I don't want all the batteries in it to save weight.
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quick question on wiring,
I just bought a 12volt dual cig. lighter port, a wired fuse, and everything else I need. How do I run the wires for this. I have a red and a black coming from my dual cig. lighter port, my fuse has an orange wire running to and from it. Does this connect to the red or black on my cig lighter. My cig. lighter looks like the red is designed for a ground screw but not sure. Thanks in advance.
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black is always negative in dc
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Just an FYI. Box weighs 17.6 lbs with 3 batteries in it.
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Thanks 3300, I just got finished with it. I have it mounted to the center console of my Clam Voyager so I can charge my cell phone.
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awesome unit, I will for sure be making one of my own, thanks for the post ;D
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I just spent 3 days out with mine. Ran lights total of 22 hours(roughly), charged the phone twice. Battery status indicator read 12.3.
Really impressed with mine over all. But definitely borrowing LateSeasons idea for posts. Running the lights in through that hole is a slight pain that I could do with out.
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Not sure I like the exposed battery posts. Too easy to short out. Why don't you just use a 1 gang duplex and wire a standard plug end on your lights. You could go so far as to add a weatherproof cover to the duplex. A trailer plug would work as well.
I'm collecting parts for a power pack. I like the idea. I have several 17ah, 12v sla batteries. They weigh just a bit more that a 10ah, but that's ok.
RG
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Good point. I like that idea. I have a weather pack kit around here someplace, I'll have to put it to use.
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I'm an electrician. Don't like sparks :-\
RG
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But with you being an electrician I can understand your view of it.
I'm not worried about the posts. They are on a switch and breaker.
makes it really easy to hook up lights and any other accessory, let alone charge.
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Well when they're hot, they're hot and easy to short out. The breaker is a good idea. I'll go with a plug in system of some sort. Where did you pick up the digital meter (if that was your model)
RG
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B689UGA/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lateseason and I are both running these.
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yup
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very cool, im going to led my shack after the season is out. looks awesome
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what kind of leds do you guys use?
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http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-Strip-Ribbon/dp/B00BH91W9G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1388627406&sr=8-7&keywords=waterproof+led+lights+12v
I bought a couple strips from superbrightleds.com, then I found a few other projects for them so I bought the spool above. You can cut those to length, then, you'll have solder wires to them.
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Here is the LED string that I used. Basically the same thing as J_Edwards.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ONEJ00/ref=oh_details_o01_s03_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ONEJ00/ref=oh_details_o01_s03_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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Wow I really want one of these now. How awesome and thanks guys for posting your expertise ideas. They really do look great.
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The box was a hit this past weekend fishing with 4 other guys. Had to get inline to charge your cell phone.
Worked great fishing outside and having light or hopping from solid house to solid house. It got a good work out in the portables also.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20140119_083606_508_zps10a6beba.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20140119_083606_508_zps10a6beba.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/20140118_182857_zps3871d624.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/20140118_182857_zps3871d624.jpg.html)
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Nice slab of perch you have there. Glad the box worked well for all.
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What batteries are you running in your boxes. 12 volt - 7am or 9amp or don't it really matter. Just wondering as I found the 7am pretty cheap at 10 bucks each.
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I just bought a 9 amp from gander for just over 20 bucks. It depends on what your doing with it I guess. Vex or marcum replacement I def. would want a 9 lights for shack if they are LED, 7 should run you all day no problem.
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I see that Fleet Farm has the 7 amp batteries on sale starting today for 14.99 I am planning on picking up atleast 2 if not 3
Also what did you guys use to strap the batteries in the box
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I made a metal bracket that I plasti dipped to hold the batteries in place.
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I made a metal bracket that I plasti dipped to hold the batteries in place.
What do you mean by plasti dipped
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http://www.plastidip.com/
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http://www.plastidip.com/
Oh Jeez I should have known that. Thanks
Will the plastidip bond to the box then or did you still need use hardware of some sort to attach.
Sorry for all the questions. I have been pretty excited ever since I saw this and have been scrounging up parts to make one and just don't want to mess something up.
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Found this and thought it would be pretty cool. Shows temp/clock/volts. Thought it would be nice to know the extra info.
??? is will this work for this application or am I just wasting my time.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Fahrenheit-Thermometer-Voltmeter-Electronic/dp/B00E7OHM2O/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1391003558&sr=8-23&keywords=temp%2Fvoltage+meter
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If you feel like you could get use out of the clock and temp go for it. Its all about making the box to suit your needs.
Make sure you plan out your layout before you buy a bunch of stuff and realize it wont fit in or on the container your using. Could also turn into a spaghetti mess of wiring.
If it was me, I would just get a voltage meter. The temp is kind of useless, freezing is freezing.
If you don't have a phone or watch with while out fishing the clock might be nice.
Just my 2 cents.
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Anyone using solar to keep the power topped off?
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i have the same ammo box
mount your vexilar upside down on the inside lid.
the lid is reversible so you can flip it over and wallah!
cheaper than a genz box
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If you feel like you could get use out of the clock and temp go for it. Its all about making the box to suit your needs.
Make sure you plan out your layout before you buy a bunch of stuff and realize it wont fit in or on the container your using. Could also turn into a spaghetti mess of wiring.
If it was me, I would just get a voltage meter. The temp is kind of useless, freezing is freezing.
If you don't have a phone or watch with while out fishing the clock might be nice.
Just my 2 cents.
Was just a thought when I saw it. Was kind of curious to how warm my shack could get compared to out side. But you are right, Why put all the bells and whistles on if it is not something that would really be needed.
Just put my Amazon order in for the rest of the stuff I need. Can't wait now. Makes me now feel like a kid waiting for Santa.
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Found this and thought it would be pretty cool. Shows temp/clock/volts. Thought it would be nice to know the extra info.
??? is will this work for this application or am I just wasting my time.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Fahrenheit-Thermometer-Voltmeter-Electronic/dp/B00E7OHM2O/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1391003558&sr=8-23&keywords=temp%2Fvoltage+meter
Hey that's pretty cool. I might hook that up to my flipover. Would be cool to have an answer when someone says "it feels nice out today". Also be cool to check the time without having to dig my phone out.
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quick question on wiring,
I just bought a 12volt dual cig. lighter port, a wired fuse, and everything else I need. How do I run the wires for this. I have a red and a black coming from my dual cig. lighter port, my fuse has an orange wire running to and from it. Does this connect to the red or black on my cig lighter. My cig. lighter looks like the red is designed for a ground screw but not sure. Thanks in advance.
your fuse can go in either path...red wire path or black wire.path
i usuuslly fuse the red path .
the center pin of your cigarete lighter will be positive. or red
the outer diameter of your cigarette lighter is ground or black
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Here is one I am starting on, I like all the others with the ammo boxs. I just like the idea of all in one box. I have two batteries so I put two plugs. One runs lights other runs minnow live well. Or what ever I want. I have a battery volt meter coming ..........waiting..... .....waiting.... ::)
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq115/rkrouse/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133804_zpsagee3i5o.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/rkrouse/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133804_zpsagee3i5o.jpg.html) (http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq115/rkrouse/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133933_zpsig1yqitu.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/rkrouse/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133933_zpsig1yqitu.jpg.html)
(http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq115/rkrouse/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133822_zpsrda3txxh.jpg) (http://s439.photobucket.com/user/rkrouse/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140130_133822_zpsrda3txxh.jpg.html)
ld like to find a better charger than my vex charger though. Something more reliable. I have two vex chargers one has little red light that comes on when charged. It takes forever. The other has a red light that turns green when fully charged. Thats kind of what I am looking for.
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ld like to find a better charger than my vex charger though. Something more reliable. I have two vex chargers one has little red light that comes on when charged. It takes forever. The other has a red light that turns green when fully charged. Thats kind of what I am looking for.
Looking good!
Check this charger out. I'm pretty impressed with it.
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=281280.msg2914366#msg2914366
Q
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Looking good!
Check this charger out. I'm pretty impressed with it.
http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=281280.msg2914366#msg2914366
Q
Does it charge the battery faster or just as fast as the original. Looks like a nice unit but in the picture looks kind of bulky plugin
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Does it charge the battery faster or just as fast as the original. Looks like a nice unit but in the picture looks kind of bulky plugin
It's a 750mA charger. Not sure which original you mean but I believe both the Vexilar and Humminbird chargers are 1000mA.
Speed wasn't a deciding factor for me. If you're looking for fast, fast costs more money.
What sold me was the stepped charging, the maintainer function, the harness and connectors that come with it, and the price ($30)
Here it is compared to the Humminbird charger. Size really isn't a problem once it's plugged into a receptacle.
(http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i459/jquaint/photobucket-863-1391123222196_zps947320a5.jpg)
Q
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It's a 750mA charger. Not sure which original you mean but I believe both the Vexilar and Humminbird chargers are 1000mA.
Speed wasn't a deciding factor for me. If you're looking for fast, fast costs more money.
What sold me was the stepped charging, the maintainer function, the harness and connectors that come with it, and the price ($30)
Here it is compared to the Humminbird charger. Size really isn't a problem once it's plugged into a receptacle.
(http://i1094.photobucket.com/albums/i459/jquaint/photobucket-863-1391123222196_zps947320a5.jpg)
Q
Thanks for the update. My original is a vex charger and it has a maintainer already in it as it starts at red and changes to green when charged. So if mine already does 1000ma I will stick with it then I guess. I was just wondering as I am making a power box and wondered with multiple batteries if it would be a little quicker of a charge with multiple batteries.
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Great ideas and work fellas!
My box is working great. I know we have shorter days up here, but I have used mine 3 days straight with no charge, running a speaker, my LEDs and charging my phone multiple times. I couldn't see any reason for my usage to even bother putting in two batteries.
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Is any one using their box in a hub shack. Wondering what lights you are using. The stick on strip type I am not thinking to work well for me in the application after I received it but was thinking the type inside of the flex tube might work. Love the idea of lights on the box so will plan to use the lights I ordered for that.
Wondering if the lights just put on the box would be enough to light the whole shack and be bright enough. If so that would take away a lot of screwing around setting up lights each time. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated
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Is any one using their box in a hub shack. Wondering what lights you are using. The stick on strip type I am not thinking to work well for me in the application after I received it but was thinking the type inside of the flex tube might work. Love the idea of lights on the box so will plan to use the lights I ordered for that.
Wondering if the lights just put on the box would be enough to light the whole shack and be bright enough. If so that would take away a lot of screwing around setting up lights each time. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated
I bought a strand of lights last year, I didn't pay attention and ordered the non waterproof ones. So I bought 5/8" clear tubing thinking I can feed a string through and then pull the lights through. Well I thought wrong. ::) Ended up cutting tubing all the way down and fed the strand in that way. Then I super glued in spots just to keep it in place. I bought a new strand this year and it is water proof. What I am trying to say maybe you can do something like that. Just roll it up when done.
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I bought a strand of lights last year, I didn't pay attention and ordered the non waterproof ones. So I bought 5/8" clear tubing thinking I can feed a string through and then pull the lights through. Well I thought wrong. ::) Ended up cutting tubing all the way down and fed the strand in that way. Then I super glued in spots just to keep it in place. I bought a new strand this year and it is water proof. What I am trying to say maybe you can do something like that. Just roll it up when done.
I was wondering if that would work, But at the same time what a pain it would be to do it without damaging the lights. Did it take a while to get into the tubing.
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Yep
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Wondering if the lights just put on the box would be enough to light the whole shack and be bright enough. If so that would take away a lot of screwing around setting up lights each time. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated
Since I don't have a dimmer on my house light I use my box lights a fair amount to light the house when im in 10' of water. I've watched fish disappear off the sonar when the house lights turned on because they are so bright.
I would think it would do OK at lighting the whole hub shack. You will have to play with placement inside and light placement on the box to get optimal light bounce.
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Some great idea's. I have to make one.
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Okay I'm on the band wagon now I'm building mine and I'm going ham Im using a Plano toolbox with two clear trays ontop for tackle and the wiring will include
2- USB plugs on an interruptible circuit so the resistors don't destroy my batterie
1- 12 car socket
1- clock/thermometer/battery meter
1- set of post with an on off switch not sure I looking for a small slid dimer switch as well
2- hardware tip up alarms
1- strip of LEDs on the box
1- strip of LEDs for overhead
I'm also considering a small spotlight to be mounted flush with one end
And a 10amp inline blade fuse all soldered then shrink wrapped
If I buy the 10 ft strip can I cut it in half and wire them independent of each other keeping in mind the polarity
And what should I use the attach the vexlar battery and is there some way to wire in two batteries and maintain 12v without a 3 way switch
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Since I don't have a dimmer on my house light I use my box lights a fair amount to light the house when im in 10' of water. I've watched fish disappear off the sonar when the house lights turned on because they are so bright.
I would think it would do OK at lighting the whole hub shack. You will have to play with placement inside and light placement on the box to get optimal light bounce.
Are the lights staying attached onto your box ok.
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I have it sitting next to me on the ice and it lights up everything in front of me good.
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I am looking at trying to set in the center of my 9x9 hub and letting it light the way
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How are your lights attached to your frame? I will use the double sided adhesive that comes with them, but I feel it might loose stickyness in the cold.
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How are your lights attached to your frame? I will use the double sided adhesive that comes with them, but I feel it might loose stickyness in the cold.
i use velcro one wrap strips
leave the paper on the back to try to act as an insulator
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I am looking at trying to set in the center of my 9x9 hub and letting it light the way
interesting thought.... How about putting some type of reflective material on the center of the ceiling of the hub and mounting an LED spot light pointing up in your box. Then just place the box / spot light under the reflective material and let it scatter the light in the hub.
just a though... ;D
Q
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interesting thought.... How about putting some type of reflective material on the center of the ceiling of the hub and mounting an LED spot light point up in your box. Then just place the box / spot light under the reflective material and let it scatter the light it the hub.
just a though... ;D
Q
Just wanted to chime in here..I do remember seeing, somewhere on here, a post about someone using one of those reflective auto-shades and just slipping it between the poles and material in their flip shelter. Wonder if you could use something like that...i saw them for $5 on ebay which included shipping.
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There are a couple guys on here that have lined the interior of their shacks with that insulation. Can't remember what its called. But they should know if it is brighter now after they installed it.
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i added reflectix to my flip roof. i am certain there is some more light, but can't be much more
the led strip are directional enough to not need mirrors/reflection. i added the reflectix for insulation and the lights are PLENTY bright enough on their own. i checked it in my suit case shanty too w/o reflectix
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R reflector on the ceiling I can't be the only one to think....disco ball.
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R reflector on the ceiling I can't be the only one to think....disco ball.
WINNER!!!! That, was, AWESOME!!! Guess I know what im getting for my buddy when he finally receives new two man flip!
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interesting thought.... How about putting some type of reflective material on the center of the ceiling of the hub and mounting an LED spot light pointing up in your box. Then just place the box / spot light under the reflective material and let it scatter the light in the hub.
just a though... ;D
Q
The inside is a grey color so it might light it up pretty well. I will have to set up in basement and light it up and see how well it does. Don't really want to have to bring any more out than I need.
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I wonder how well this stuff would work...
http://colesafety.com/Reflect-All-Reflective-Spray-Paint-Reflect-All.htm
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This may be a dumb question, but how are you guys getting a ground inside the box? Trying to wire mine up and got some I heated sparks :o ???
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This may be a dumb question, but how are you guys getting a ground inside the box? Trying to wire mine up and got some I heated sparks :o ???
Sounds like you got something crossed ...each accessory you add/use should have a Pos and Neg wire and/or plug or clips ..those should eventually end up connected to the Pos/Neg posts respectively ...do you have a lighted switch ?
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Sounds like you got something crossed ...each accessory you add/use should have a Pos and Neg wire and/or plug or clips ..those should eventually end up connected to the Pos/Neg posts respectively ...do you have a lighted switch ?
Yes I have little experience with this, but it have a red/orange switch and an off position (center) each had 2 prongs. I ran them on each side of the orange if that makes sense. So the two prongs in the middle and the two prongs on the red side had nothing attached.
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That is where your problem lays ...not sure if the switched is marked (pos/neg) check that first ..been sometime for me since I hooked up a switch so my information as to exact hook up is fuzzy at best ..but quite certain that where the problem lies ...
who makes the switch ..may be get a wiring diagram from the manufacturer site or via YouTube ?
http://www.12volt-travel.com/knowledgebase/connecting-a-6-terminal-toggle-switch-to-a-dc-motor/
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I use a Power All small compact and you can jump start a Hemi engine with it. Well built comes in a nice case or without for extra savings. Bought mine off Amazon.
http://www.thepowerall.com
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I believe the center two prongs take the power ..... not an electrician though.
The switch should be breaking the power only.
The switch can run two items in one direction and two items in the other direction ..... I THINK! ???
Again, not an Electrician.
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I believe the center two prongs take the power ..... not an electrician though.
The switch should be breaking the power only.
The switch can run two items in one direction and two items in the other direction ..... I THINK! ???
Again, not an Electrician.
Good ol' test light I think is in order ...along with one power lead .
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:thumbsup:
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Working on a Power box myself ...think I am forgoing the switch ...don't want to over engineer it ..just an accessory plug and positive and negative posts ...I am sure the placement of them will lead me to plan for a possible future switch or other adaptors/accessories .
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I believe the center two prongs take the power ..... not an electrician though.
The switch should be breaking the power only.
The switch can run two items in one direction and two items in the other direction ..... I THINK! ???
Again, not an Electrician.
Thanks Matt and hard water, that was exactly it. Running perfect now. My lights got here yesterday, and I am trying to install a dimmer, any ideas on how that works?? It's got the output side the input side, and two flaps for the positive and negative terminals on both, but whe I hook it up no lights turn on. I am also wiring two 12v cig lighters for power they have a negative cord and a red cord with a different end as the "positive" again I am having no luck getting it to work.
But on a fun side, this thing is awesome once I have it all wired up. I ran led lights on the outside on the switch and my shanty light will run on the other side of the switch. Just the led.s on the box itself is super bright for those dark nights walleye fishing in the tundra. I can't wait!!! :tipup:
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The dimmer I believe should run between the battery and your lights ...should be up solo no other items spliced in between ...do you have a test light ...could test the dimmer ...I believe it should work in on direction only ...your dimmer could be defective ...it is a 12v dimmer ? yes? Not sure what you mean by a different end on your cig lighter plug ....is it a cig lighter or an accessory plug ?
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The dimmer I believe should run between the battery and your lights ...should be up solo no other items spliced in between ...do you have a test light ...could test the dimmer ...I believe it should work in on direction only ...your dimmer could be defective ...it is a 12v dimmer ? yes? Not sure what you mean by a different end on your cig lighter plug ....is it a cig lighter or an accessory plug ?
I will have to test the dimmer, it's wired properly. One has a terminal clip and the other has a half moon circle on the cig lighter
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Only other thing I can think of for your accessory plug is ...the male and female end has to be hooked up properly on the female end I believe the pos is the center ...if that is hooked up properly ..may be your accessory plug is not hooked up properly or defective.
Ps in the process of hooking mine up ..but couldn't locate any terminal ends hope it goes easier for me .
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FinnHunt3r, are you using the same 6 prong switch to run everything?
If so, how did you hook up the ground on the dimmer?
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FinnHunt3r, are you using the same 6 prong switch to run everything?
If so, how did you hook up the ground on the dimmer?
No, I haven't been able to figure out the dimmer yet. The six prong right now is running LEDs on the outside of my box and the other side will be running my shanty lights once I get that together. I would like to run the cgi lighter to a separate switch and it's own battery.
Not sure how to hook up the ground? I am thinking I may have an issue with that for the cig lighter. I'm not sure how it works with that.
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Only other thing I can think of for your accessory plug is ...the male and female end has to be hooked up properly on the female end I believe the pos is the center ...if that is hooked up properly ..may be your accessory plug is not hooked up properly or defective.
Ps in the process of hooking mine up ..but couldn't locate any terminal ends hope it goes easier for me .
I guess I should mention too that I am not running the accessory plug off the switch. ???
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I guess I should mention too that I am not running the accessory plug off the switch. ???
Not sure what the math is with your accessory plug woes ...any chance you can post a pic of the electrical end of the port?
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Not sure what the math is with your accessory plug woes ...any chance you can post a pic of the electrical end of the port?
I'm gonna pick up another one and see if that's the issue, it's just a cheap one from Wally World so I am not surprised if that's not it. I will try to post a pic later this week if that's not the case. How is your box going?
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How is your box going?
In a holding pattern ...I must have squirreled away my electrical connectors ...so that's on my to get list ...got me a lil worried with the Walmart accessory plug ..just got two for this project . Don't think I am going with a switch as you and others have ..just an accessory plug and Pos and Neg post ..similar in design as the post on Vexilar's ultra pack that will suit my needs .
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In a holding pattern ...I must have squirreled away my electrical connectors ...so that's on my to get list ...got me a lil worried with the Walmart accessory plug ..just got two for this project . Don't think I am going with a switch as you and others have ..just an accessory plug and Pos and Neg post ..similar in design as the post on Vexilar's ultra pack that will suit my needs .
See and when I run my cig lighter straight to the battery it's not working. Good luck, let me know how you wired yours and if they are working ;)
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The Cig. Lighter may require a relay?
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The Cig. Lighter may require a relay?
I was thinking the same thing if its a cigarette lighter port/plug as opposed to an accessory plug/port.
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I believe an accessory plug/port can go direct to the battery with just an inline fuse.
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Wasn't going to use a fuse ...but guess that's the right thing to do ...adding it to the list ....I am using a larger ammo box so I can store my 9 in green light and 3 foot span of LEDs along with some Velcro cable ties ,zip ties...USB adaptor.. ..and now extra fuses
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A small fuse block (4 fuses) and ground bus may make life easier and keep the accessory leads of the battery.
Although an inline fuse certainly does the same. Not sure which is more economical.
Make a spot for extra fuses.
J_Edwards has them in his Power Box.
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This is awesome! I've been wanting to build something similar. Now I think I will!
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Just waiting on the dimmer and I can put mine together, I went with the MTM .50 cal ammo can because I am going to put a 5 way switch in it with aux plug to run different lights rather than just run them off one switch and wanted the bigger size. Ammo can came yesterday and its a lot bigger than I anticipated! I'll make it work though, Pics to come.
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I believe the center two prongs take the power ..... not an electrician though.
The switch should be breaking the power only.
The switch can run two items in one direction and two items in the other direction ..... I THINK! ???
Again, not an Electrician.
:%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!:
This power box is driving me insane! Ha ha. So I am thinking one half of my switch is bad. Got my shanty yesterday wired the lights hit the switch, nothing. It will run my small set of LEDs around the outisside of the box, but not both the inside lights and the smooth box lights.
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Ok ...disregard the switch ...test each item...lights ,accessory plug ...that would let you know the switch is bad or hooked up improperly ...or the item ..light accessory plug is bad. Do you have a test light . If you do run a hot lead to one lead of the switch and then ground the test light to see if the switch functions ...do this for each switch position.... and each prong of the switch
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Hi FinnHunt3r,
You can hook your main inside lights on the switch were your box lights are hooked up to see if they will work.
This will confirm that the main lights are hooked up correctly.
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What gauge wire you guys using ..got 18 ga ... Is.that going to work for 2 ft LED light, an accessory plug and a Pos and Neg post ?
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Can you tell what gauge of wire is being used on the LED strip?
Normally you like to be one gauge bigger but on a short run it should be alright if they match up. (Nothing smaller)
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Can you tell what gauge of wire is being used on the LED strip?
Normally you like to be one gauge bigger but on a short run it should be alright if they match up. (Nothing smaller)
Thats what I did. Not that mine is a model. Ha ha. So basically everything is working off the battery directly. My small strip light is running fine off the switch, but not my 16' strip. Is it possible the switch is not able to run it? I gave up on the cig lighter until this weekend when I have some time, but I think mine may be faulty.
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Use 14-16ga for inside the box, and 16 everywhere else, the switches are probably fine it's likely just a bad crimp connector be sure to get a dedicated crimper AND a stripper I can't tell you how much I use my crimping pliers. The leads on you led strip are probably 20ga aluminum, when doing connections with this wire strip about 7/8 on an inch of wire by gently rolling the wire over the blade of a shop knife with your thumb BE CARFULE WIRES SOFT AND WILL CUT LIKE BUTTER, then twist exposed strands together , double over on itself and twist, now apply a crimp connector, WHEN USING LEDS POLARITY IS OF EXTREME IMPORTANCE YOU CROSS YOUR WIRED AND THE DIODES ARE FRIED. Beyond that nothing should go wrong...16ga wires cheap and I would recommend upgrading to that.
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AGAIN POLARITY MATTERS , the wall of a 12v automotive socket is the negative and the base positive, cross the wires and kiss your charger and phone goodbye, live terminals should be on an independent switch, wire everything in parallel , make sure your wire is clean, use crip connectors and a good crimping pliers
What battery are you running the 16ft strip, have you considered shortening it? But first check to make sure your getting 12+ volts
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:%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!: :%$#!:
This power box is driving me insane! Ha ha. So I am thinking one half of my switch is bad. Got my shanty yesterday wired the lights hit the switch, nothing. It will run my small set of LEDs around the outisside of the box, but not both the inside lights and the smooth box lights.
What type of lights are you using inside your shanty... Is it a hard side....make sure your battery's charged
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What type of lights are you using inside your shanty... Is it a hard side....make sure your battery's charged
Yes battery is charged the link to my lights are above. Not sure what you mean by hard side. I'm confident in my crimping since they will run direct off my battery but not off the switch. I am probably going to scrap this box and start over since I haves drilled a bagillion holes in this one trying to get my logistics figured out. And I am running all the correct slip over terminals. I have no idea how to wire the dimmer either. I think I am going to scrap that idea.
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If you remove the positive lead from your short lights off the switch and replace it with the positive lead from your shanty lights, the switch should turn them on if ground for the shanty lights is correct.
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If you remove the positive lead from your short lights off the switch and replace it with the positive lead from your shanty lights, the switch should turn them on if ground for the shanty lights is correct.
So the negative is the ground? I will have to try it tonight
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Test light.. test light.. test light ...then you can test your switch and your accessory adaptor ....licitlysplit
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LOL. I think hardwater diehard wants you to use a test light. :thumbsup:
Yes the negative is the ground. Hook the LED negative directly to the negative on the battery.
I think your 6 pole two way rocker switch is complicating the issue.
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Did I come off a lil strong ;D...without a light you can chase your tail ...not like I asked him to get a volt/ohm meter ...kidding aside ..after you figure it out I am sure it will be a duh ...smack in the head moment ...plus you can use the test light to figure out your boat/snowmobile trailer lights .
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Stay tuned. In the next segment we will discuss how to use a test light. :roflmao:
Kidding.
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I have picked up a couple switches and acc. plug.
Three prong switch - Two Power and a Ground.
Going to check out potential boxes for the Power Box this afternoon.
I am having a hard time finding a Volt Meter Digital Gauge locally. Looks like I may have to order it.
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Stay tuned. In the next segment we will discuss how to use a test light. :roflmao:
Kidding.
No kidding I literally have no idea what I am doing ha ha
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I have picked up a couple switches and acc. plug.
Three prong switch - Two Power and a Ground.
Going to check out potential boxes for the Power Box this afternoon.
I am having a hard time finding a Volt Meter Digital Gauge locally. Looks like I may have to order it.
Check NAPA and etc mines a custom one that has a time and temp readout but napa ink has voltage and time DROKs but separately
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Yes battery is charged the link to my lights are above. Not sure what you mean by hard side. I'm confident in my crimping since they will run direct off my battery but not off the switch. I am probably going to scrap this box and start over since I haves drilled a bagillion holes in this one trying to get my logistics figured out. And I am running all the correct slip over terminals. I have no idea how to wire the dimmer either. I think I am going to scrap that idea.
Is it a permy, are the lights led or filament type, LEDs May come shipped new and not work.
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I believe the center two prongs take the power ..... not an electrician though.
The switch should be breaking the power only.
The switch can run two items in one direction and two items in the other direction ..... I THINK! ???
Again, not an Electrician.
If you are looking at the plug, the right blade is "pos" left is "neg" and middle is ground... Idk how relavent pos/neg is in an ac current but your power box should be DC
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Thanks thewyler.
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If you are looking at the plug, the right blade is "pos" left is "neg" and middle is ground... Idk how relavent pos/neg is in an ac current but your power box should be DC
I thought he had a DPDT Toggle Switch.
This would make all post +. I could be absolutely wrong. Would not be the first time. :unsure:
Was just trying to make sure the grounds did not get placed near the switch until certain.
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Yes battery is charged the link to my lights are above. Not sure what you mean by hard side. I'm confident in my crimping since they will run direct off my battery but not off the switch. I am probably going to scrap this box and start over since I haves drilled a bagillion holes in this one trying to get my logistics figured out. And I am running all the correct slip over terminals. I have no idea how to wire the dimmer either. I think I am going to scrap that idea.
Make certain that your dimmer is for LED Lights. It may be the dimmer and not you.
Check ebay for LED Dimmer Switch. Don't give up. :thumbsup:
The one that says DIMMER on the top is the ticket. Very easy to install.
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I'm not sur why your using a ground unless your using a common ground negative, because there's no place to ground it out, the entire system should be on a 12-18volt battery with only 2 poles red and black, pos and neg, plus minus etc.... The ground is pointless if your trying to wore in a household outlet you will need a transformer, you can wire the 12v outlet without switch as well as clock, and volt meter, live terminals as well as any lights on box need to be on switches... Just go to any hardware store and get automotive switches... You won't need the pole marked ground and run the postaive wire strait from the fuse to the power pole, and run the other terminal to the postaive terminal/wire or what have you... Don't mess around with these crapyp six pole switches.
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I had a dimmer on my first box but didn't bother with it on my second box it wasn't worth it.
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I had a dimmer on my first box but didn't bother with it on my second box it wasn't worth it.
Good to know. Thanks.
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I had a dimmer on my first box but didn't bother with it on my second box it wasn't worth it.
I know were are suppose to determine the mood of the fish for presentation purposes ...but do now need "mood" lighting . :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: ;D ;D ;D
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Idk about you but I go fishing to get away from that mood lighting person of mine.
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Make certain that your dimmer is for LED Lights. It may be the dimmer and not you.
Check ebay for LED Dimmer Switch. Don't give up. :thumbsup:
The one that says DIMMER on the top is the ticket. Very easy to install.
I bought it along with my LEDs so I am pretty sure its the right one??? It has a remote and everything, I bought a couple of terminals for it today that I think may work, so I will give it another shot. It should be simple as black from leds into box, red from leds into box, red from box to battery and black from box to battery. Right??? ??? I bought a simple toggle switch and I think I am going to run each one seperately. That way too I can have both my light box and my shanty lights on if I wanted/needed them too. That 6 prong switch is a pain in my behind
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Pos battery to fuse, fuse to switch, switch to pos terminal post, terminal post to light wire, back to neg terminal post, and terminal post to negative battery lead
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I know were are suppose to determine the mood of the fish for presentation purposes ...but do now need "mood" lighting . :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: ;D ;D ;D
Now that's funny. :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
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I believe this is what thewyler is saying?
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o202/MattKenzer/Dimmer.jpg) (http://s121.photobucket.com/user/MattKenzer/media/Dimmer.jpg.html)
Drawing is a bit deceiving. Just make sure Red to + (power) and Black to - (ground) at the dimmer.
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DIAGRAM TIME !!! I love it ....more of a personal joke in my head :roflmao: :roflmao:
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Anybody used these for power supply ? http://www.amazon.com/6800mAh-Capacity-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery/dp/B00NDZU8HY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1411075755&sr=8-6&keywords=12V+6800mAh
I've been using a 12 V 7mAh battery in a game camera pack to run the fish finder on my kayak, but it's DOA, so I just ordered something similar, but haven't received it yet.
Reading on a kayaking forum, seems like a lot of people are switching to these due to the size and increased capacity.
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hardwater diehard,
I am impressed that I got the diagram from pencil to screen. Did not have a clue when i started. :roflmao: :roflmao: :unsure: :unsure:
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I see y'all are still having lots of fun with this idea. ;D I swear, ice fishers can find more fun projects to tinker with.
Being as I am now a retired electrician, having spent the last 10 years as the service manager for a lighting company, I may be able to help with some of your technical questions.
Some general info;
LEDs May or may not be polarity sensitive. It depends on the manufacturer. Reversing the polarity on an Led strip may or may not destroy the strip. In my experience, it normally does not hurt anything.
ALWAYS use a fuse or circuit breaker with a DC power source................ .....ALWAYS! A short without a fused link will cause a major melt down and perhaps a fire.
I'm not a big fan of the exposed posts some of you are using on your boxes. When live, they are susceptible to shorting. If improperly connected to a fused link, they can also cause a major melt down.
Wire colors on Led lighting may be confusing. They are not always red and black. Make sure you have identified positive and negative correctly.
If you're having difficulty with switching or identifying which terminal does what, I strongly suggest you spend a couple of dollars on a battery operated test light. Remember, with DC wiring, you are only breaking the positive side of the circuit. The negative side always returns to the battery. I like to use a ground bar with DC setups. You can get one at Home Depot in the electrical department for a couple of bucks.
I'll be building one of these contraptions for myself pretty soon. I like to hit the ice well before daylight.
Pm me if you need help.
Rg
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I'm not a big fan of the exposed posts some of you are using on your boxes. When live, they are susceptible to shorting. If improperly connected to a fused link, they can also cause a major melt down
Rg
I will be using a small machine screws as my posts ...but that will surrounded by a 1/2 PVC end cap clear painted red/black for +/- identification. Your thoughts? . Quick question on the Fuse ...what amp would you recommend and I am assuming it is placed on the positive lead ?
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I bought it along with my LEDs so I am pretty sure its the right one??? It has a remote and everything, I bought a couple of terminals for it today that I think may work, so I will give it another shot. It should be simple as black from leds into box, red from leds into box, red from box to battery and black from box to battery. Right??? ??? I bought a simple toggle switch and I think I am going to run each one seperately. That way too I can have both my light box and my shanty lights on if I wanted/needed them too. That 6 prong switch is a pain in my behind
Eureka! Fixed the dimmer. Then like the tater that I am f-ed it up. So I think on my fist set of lights I reversed the input and out put on the dimmer and blew something in the lights, cause I got my 2nd set to work on the dimmer until I did the same thing again!! :( so for now I quit because I am not spending more money on lights to screw it up. Next time I get waterproof lights I will install the dimmer. Still having issues wiring a switch, lots of sparks were flying and I am just trying not to burn the house down. I really should be left no where near these things. I guess I am still confused with the ground. I bought a simple two prong switch, one prong should have neg lights and neg from battery, the other should have pos from lights post from battery? I tried that on a three prong I had lying around and I got sparks, I put the negative on the earth supply load was empty and put positives on the last prong. ???
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If it's two prong switch one pole should be negative from battery and the other pole should be negative wire from lights. The positive from lights should be directly tied to battery.
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There should be no ground wires (-) at the switch.
The switch is used to break the positive power (+) only on a DC circuit.
The sketch I did above was deceiving because of were I drew the + and - at the dimmer.
Ground is straight line to the battery.
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Test light Test light TEST LIGHT ...save yourself a lot of grief ..and some appliances
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I concure. :thumbsup:
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Still haven't made my power box yet ..haven't committed to the layout just yet ...contemplating switch(s) ..and maybe a small led on the outside...and your guys mods are not helping any ;D ....and just to think last year I used my ammo box just to take/store my battery on the ice ...no fancy connections or accessories
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I'll be building one of these contraptions for myself pretty soon. I like to hit the ice well before daylight.
RG--If you could put up a post of your efforts, box, materials, etc. when you're done, I would appreciate it. One of these is in my future at some point and I have always liked your efforts on ice projects in the past.
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There should be no ground wires (-) at the switch.
The switch is used to break the positive power (+) only on a DC circuit.
The sketch I did above was deceiving because of were I drew the + and - at the dimmer.
Ground is straight line to the battery.
:blink:I am done with the switches. I dont think they are really going to help anyhow, since most likely I will be disconnecting them from the battery after every trip so they don't drain it/for charging. So on a two prong switch, one prong should be vacant? Because one is occupied with the pos from lights and pos from the battery, the negative from the lights will be straight on the negative terminal on the battery. ???
Thanks guys for all your help, I am sure you feel like your are talking to a wall with me and this electrical stuff.
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on a two prong switch...power on one side then the accessory's +(pos) in wire ...then on your accessory hook up your neg to negative on battery ...test lite test lite test lit ...the switch is on off of current ...think of it like water ...water flows ...then hits the switch(nozzle) ..when off no water flows out the switch(nozzle) ..when switch(hose nozzles) is in the on position water(juice) flows .
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on a two prong switch...power on one side then the accessory's +(pos) in wire ...then on your accessory hook up your neg to negative on battery ...test lite test lite test lit ...the switch is on off of current ...think of it like water ...water flows ...then hits the switch(nozzle) ..when off no water flows out the switch(nozzle) ..when switch(hose nozzles) is in the on position water(juice) flows .
I have a test light! :) I will be using it for sure! ;D
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I will be using a small machine screws as my posts ...but that will surrounded by a 1/2 PVC end cap clear painted red/black for +/- identification. Your thoughts? . Quick question on the Fuse ...what amp would you recommend and I am assuming it is placed on the positive lead ?
Protecting the posts is a good idea. What will the fuse be powering?
Rg
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Once again, in a 12V DC circuit only the positive lead is switched. No ground wire should be connected to the switch. The ground wire always goes to,the negative lead on the battery. A ground bar makes this connection easy.
Rg
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Protecting the posts is a good idea. What will the fuse be powering?
Rg
Think the only thing would be Smartphone or an Optronics green light
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2 amp is plenty.
Rg
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Here is the schematic for my box, just waiting for all the parts to come in before I start the build
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll113/Kenneth_v/769b6eb3-77ae-4835-ba80-1c2ab561b856.jpg)[/URL]
Box is a Zombie ammo box
I am using an LED controller that came with the LED light kit. It also has an IR remote and a dimmer built in. IR receiver will stick out a small hole in the top of the box
Shack LED strip will have an extension cable made of cat6 with male rj45 ethernet plug that will plug into the female rj45 female connector on the box for easy connect/disconnect. You can then use the box outside the shack if needed with a quick unplug of the ethernet plug
Box LED hard wired to the controller
6 foot shack LED strip and the 2 foot box led strip only draw a total of .44 amps on full bright
Switches are a three post switch with a built in led ON/OFF indicators so they need negative connection at the switch but you know 100% what is on and what is not
Binding posts are a safer option than bare posts, are threaded for eye/U connector and also accept 4mm banana plugs in the top
I may change my mind and do a negative bus instead of a bunch of crimp splice connections to a main negative wire, haven't decided for sure
Thanks for all the great ideas
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Here is the schematic for my box, just waiting for all the parts to come in before I start the build
That's pretty cool! Ken, could you post some more pics when you finish and perhaps the cost? I have a Fish Trap flip over and I am thinking about doing a smaller version. I want to have lighting as well as a fan, and maybe a way to charge my phone so I can listen to music if the bite is slow. If anyone else has a similar set up, I would greatly appreciate some info..
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Here is a breakdown of my costs:
Zombie ammo box 1 x 14.00 14.00 Cabelas
LED switches 6 x .45 2.70 Ebay
waterproof Fuse box 1 x 4.44 4.44 Ebay
Waterproof USB socket 1 x 7.46 7.46 Ebay
Waterproof power socket 1 x 5.25 5.25 Ebay
Binding posts 2 x .18 .36 Ebay
Digital voltmeter 1 x 3.88 3.88 Ebay
Panel mount female RJ45 & M plug 1 x 1.99 3.98 Ebay
Waterproof under cabinet LED kit 1 x 28.00 28.00 Left over under cabinet lighting kit (already had)
12v 9mAh batteries 2 x 18.00 36.00 Battery store (already had)
To buy everything new would be a total of $104.08 plus misc wire, connectors, heat shrink, velcro
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Nice work ken! Those pictures should help people and the cost break down is nice to have to. I need to pull the trigger on this set up soon! Be so nice to be able to flip a switch and have lights in the flip over!!
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Thanks Ken! I'm hoping to get cracking on mine. I pretty sure on what I will want and your diagram,as well as other who have posted their builds on this thread,will make it much easier.
thanks again for the breakdown!
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Here is mine that I finished last night. I started with a Seahorse hard case from Amazon.
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w487/clairfilbert59/D3988951-E97B-42D3-8C24-AA9838D4C369_zpst5bbjazw.jpg) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/clairfilbert59/media/D3988951-E97B-42D3-8C24-AA9838D4C369_zpst5bbjazw.jpg.html)
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w487/clairfilbert59/C894D89A-68D0-4FFF-8E82-CED02E487621_zpsz5sex6zn.jpg) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/clairfilbert59/media/C894D89A-68D0-4FFF-8E82-CED02E487621_zpsz5sex6zn.jpg.html)
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w487/clairfilbert59/CD593B46-DBBF-4DE2-87FB-A8FF9D0F3316_zpsvg6crsvv.jpg) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/clairfilbert59/media/CD593B46-DBBF-4DE2-87FB-A8FF9D0F3316_zpsvg6crsvv.jpg.html)
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w487/clairfilbert59/A966A6AA-E45C-4D1D-8955-4356C959CD67_zps3ubcuvjt.jpg) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/clairfilbert59/media/A966A6AA-E45C-4D1D-8955-4356C959CD67_zps3ubcuvjt.jpg.html)
What do you think
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Here is mine that I finished last night. I started with a Seahorse hard case from Amazon.
What do you think
Thats a real nice job!
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Being I'm in a Fish Trap, and I wanted something smaller, has anyone seen this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkODsQPWWn0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkODsQPWWn0)
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Being I'm in a Fish Trap, and I wanted something smaller, has anyone seen this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkODsQPWWn0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkODsQPWWn0)
That looks like it would work great, except one additional thing to carry on the ice.
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The Berkley Power Pack is a bit low on capacity... "2.3 amp hours" according to their website.
http://www.berkley-fishing.com/Berkley%C2%AE-Power-Pack-Battery/1347828,default,pd.html
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The Berkley Power Pack is a bit low on capacity... "2.3 amp hours" according to their website.
http://www.berkley-fishing.com/Berkley%C2%AE-Power-Pack-Battery/1347828,default,pd.html
That's what I was thinking. On Cabelas site I found that it says "12 hour run time"
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Berkleyreg-Power-Pack-Battery-System/1878617.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3FrecordsPerPage%3D18%26No%3D0%26N%3D0%26nl%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dberkley%2Bpower%2Bpack%26search%3DSearch&No=0&Ntt=berkley+power+pack (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Berkleyreg-Power-Pack-Battery-System/1878617.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3FrecordsPerPage%3D18%26No%3D0%26N%3D0%26nl%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dberkley%2Bpower%2Bpack%26search%3DSearch&No=0&Ntt=berkley+power+pack)
I'm gonna ask a buddy who's wicked smart and see if he can give me more info.
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That looks like it would work great, except one additional thing to carry on the ice.
Agreed,but I was looking at building a power box for my flip over anyway,which would also be an additional item to carry out..not sure if that's what you meant,but I'm looking at it from a safety standpoint. A way to keep my phone charged and operate a 12 volt fan to aid in air circulation. That way condensation and carbon monoxide, from say my propane heate,will be kept at bay.
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Be careful buying switches from ebay
I bought a few of these rocker switches with LED in it and couldn't figure out why it was getting so hot, hot enough to almost burn my thumb shutting it off. I knew all of the wiring was done correctly. I ripped one apart and found that it isnt an LED in there as advertised but a small incandescent bulb that gets roasting hot.
This is what I bought
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll113/Kenneth_v/rockerswitch.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/Kenneth_v/media/rockerswitch.jpg.html)
This is the light inside
(http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll113/Kenneth_v/switch.jpg) (http://s286.photobucket.com/user/Kenneth_v/media/switch.jpg.html)
No wonder it got so hot!!!
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Contoura rocker switches often have the same lights in them as well...sucks they said LED's were installed
Here is the box I made for my Recon...Tupperware container with a pair of 7ah batteries, stainless machine screws for charging and hooking up ring terminals to all of my equipment
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15406405407_a37b2b073c_c.jpg)
insulated and installed
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/15429679098_a8cde43088_c.jpg)
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Yeah, too bad I left feedback already before I realized they were not LED
Ordered some more from a different supplier, hopefully these come LED cause the holes are already cut
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Yeah, too bad I left feedback already before I realized they were not LED
Ordered some more from a different supplier, hopefully these come LED cause the holes are already cut
Depending on what you spent, I would try and file a claim through eBay to recoup the money spent. And you can, I believe, edit or update the feedback you left to reflect your disappointment.
I decided on going with a automotive type battery jumper power supply. I found one at a flea market for $20. It's a Stanley brand. Has usb,12v lighter type port and a household plug type port as well as a light and digital display. I unfortunately do not have a permanent type shanty, just a flip over,so I think this will suffice.
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Stopped in my local Kmart. Scored a oscillating 12v fan and a reflective jumbo auto shade,both on clearance. Fan will help with condensation and heat distribution and will plug right in to the jump starter I got. Cost, $5.00! Saw the same one for $15 on Amazon. The auto shade was $3! Total, $8.56! Bring on the ice!
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I bought it along with my LEDs so I am pretty sure its the right one??? It has a remote and everything, I bought a couple of terminals for it today that I think may work, so I will give it another shot. It should be simple as black from leds into box, red from leds into box, red from box to battery and black from box to battery. Right??? ??? I bought a simple toggle switch and I think I am going to run each one seperately. That way too I can have both my light box and my shanty lights on if I wanted/needed them too. That 6 prong switch is a pain in my behind
Thanks for the help guys and mattkenzer! Took me a couple weeks (works been insane) but a night and a couple of beers later got it installed and count be happier!!! It was 7f here today, hopefully within the next few weeks we will be seeing ice!
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Nice work guys. I'm itching to get mine out, the lakes in Alaska are capping or already capped and I'm sweating my butt off in 90 degree heat half way around the world. 2 more months and its on.
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Thanks for all the great ideas everyone! This thread inspired me to make my own portable power station with a few of the ideas from here that will suit my needs. Once I had all the parts, it was a pretty fun build that took about 6 hours. I wanted a clean looking box so I took my time and made sure all the connections were protected with heat shrink tubing and wires were proper lengths, etc. I used a plastic ammo can made by Flambeau Outdoors that I have had laying around the garage for a few years. It has a flip up top on the lid that I thought would be nice to keep my switches protected and from getting bumped when in transport.
This is the beginning, showing the fuse box (10 gang with a common ground) and the main power switch that will turn the whole power supply on or off. (Don't mind the wiring to the main power switch, it has three poles and I didn't have it connected properly at the time of this picture.) Sorry about some of the pics, not sure why they are showing up upside-down.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/1-MainPowerSwitch_zps1b24c7d0.jpg)
Voltage display added on left, dual USB port on top left and cigarette lighter port on top right.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/2-VoltageDisplayUSBsandCig_zpsb40837db.jpg)
Power switch for shack LEDs added as well as a dimmer switch for them. This is wired to posts that are accessible on the outside of the box so I can just hook the alligator clips from my shack LEDs to the posts without opening the box. When I'm ready to leave, just unhook the alligator clips and go.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/3-DimmerSwitch_zps6b5cadb1.jpg)
Top view of the box showing the main power switch and the shack LED light switch on far right, voltage display on top and the two power ports on the left.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/4-TopView_zps11364fb4.jpg)
Then, I added some LED strip lighting to the outside of the box so that it can be used as a portable lantern. After disconnecting the shack LEDs I'll still have lights while I finish packing up. Or it can be used when checking tip ups. They are also wired on their own power switch.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/5-OutsideLEDsOn_zps9e90673f.jpg)
Wiring all complete. 3 batteries wired in parallel.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/6-CompleteMessy_zpsc0e8656f.jpg)
Cleaned up a little of the wiring so it wouldn't get caught in the lid when closing the box.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/9-CompleteCleanedUp_zpsd60da660.jpg)
Closeup of the LED lights on the outside of the box.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/10-OutsideLEDsOffCloseup_zpsdbd7fc4f.jpg)
Closeup of the posts on the outside of the closed box that my shack LED lights will clip onto with alligator clips. Hooked to a power switch.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/7-OutsideShackLEDPosts_zps47537778.jpg)
Closeup of the posts on the outside of the box that my charger's alligator clips will hook up to. No need to open the box, just clip the charger's wires on and wait.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/8-OutsideChargingPosts_zps8bc6e988.jpg)
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I am putting my parts list together today, hoping to find most of the stuff locally. Will purchase anything i can't find off of amazon.
Have you purchased lights yet? I've been searching the internet this morning trying to find the best deal and also trying to make sure they will be bright enough. I believe someone linked some from page 3 or 4. I don't wanna waste my money. Maybe some someone who has had there's for a season can post up their thoughts.
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I am putting my parts list together today, hoping to find most of the stuff locally. Will purchase anything i can't find off of amazon.
Have you purchased lights yet? I've been searching the internet this morning trying to find the best deal and also trying to make sure they will be bright enough. I believe someone linked some from page 3 or 4. I don't wanna waste my money. Maybe some someone who has had there's for a season can post up their thoughts.
I found the best prices from Amazon. We have a Prime subscription so 2-day shipping was free for eligible items. I have a parts list if you're interested. I got a roll of weatherproof LED lights (seen above on the outside of the box). It was $10 for a 5 meter roll. You can cut them down to whatever length you want (can cut between every 3 LED lights).
In my portable (older 2-man Clam Scout) I bought one of the Clam light bars last year. You can either clip it onto one of the existing poles, or some guys actually cut a section of their shack's pole and replace with the light bar. I clipped mine on (with the clips that came with the light bar) because I wanted the option to move the light bar from the top pole to the back pole if I wanted. One really nice thing about the light pole is that you can spin it so the lights face upwards if you want to keep too much light from shining down. I'm very happy with the amount of light that the light bar puts out. It's plenty bright for what I want (also why I put a dimmer switch in the power box).
I also have a wiring diagram I'd be happy to share if interested.
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Id be interested to see which brand led's you bought off amazon. You can't beat those prices. As far as switches and stuff I was going to compare to things at farm and fleet. If the price is way off i will just order off amazon.
Only reason i ask about the LEDs, there are so many types and the reviews on some say they aren't very bright but one mans opinion of bright and another guys opinion might be different.
Lateseason recommends http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-Strip-Ribbon/dp/B00BH91W9G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1388627406&sr=8-7&keywords=waterproof+led+lights+12v
Id love a picture and review of them!! Curious if they are holding up.
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Those are the same LEDs that I ordered. As you mentioned, what I think is bright is different than the next guy. :)
I'm very happy with them, but they haven't been field tested since I just got them and installed them on my box this past weekend. They come with an adhesive back that seemed to stick to my box just fine. Hard to say how they will hold up over time. I would just have to figure out a new way to stick them to my box if the adhesive doesn't hold up. A guy could use some clear plastic tubing and use that as well. Then you can mount the tubing with regular pipe holders/mounts or whatever you call them. This might be what I do if I use them in my permanent shack, depending where I decide to put them.
Below are links to most of the parts. They were all eligible for Amazon Prime so shipping was free and I got them in a couple days.
5 Pack of Switches - $5.36
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B86Z94/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_7
Dual USB Port - $19.47 - if you want to keep the cost down, this is probably the best thing to cut and just stuck with the cigarette lighter port (or two of them)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0082CXEI8/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_5
Cigarette Lighter Port - $7.99
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U4ZZPK/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_4
LED Light Strip (5 meters) - $9.98 - same as the ones Lateseason recommended
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BH91W9G/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_6
10 Gang Fuse Block - $21.95 - you can get a smaller one, but I knew I needed 5 and thought I could expand if I wanted in the future
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9PJ7W/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_3
Voltage Display - $6.69 - not necessary, but it gives a good idea of when your batteries are getting low
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KY5ULW/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_2
Dimmer Switch - $5.99 - also not necessary, but may come in handy to dim the lights if needed
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYXGEEQ/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1
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Well pulled the trigger. Got the LEDs, cig lighter, USB charger ports and led dimmer coming!!! Local store had switches at a very reasonable price and found a ammo can that i really liked to for like $2 more! Can't wait to put this together!!!
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Got everything in the mail!! Now I don't know how i want to put it together haha. Can't decide how many lights i want in the shack. Can't decide how i want to set up my box etc
Etc.
How many strips of lights did you guys put in your shack and how long was each strip of LEDs? I'm gonna go tinker in the garage and do some testing. Just curious what you guys did. Thanks
And everyone loves photos.
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/10644601_617957898612_3505780348392203693_o.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10472146_617957888632_2555515095863609087_o.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/1912417_617957893622_6736401110779191965_o.jpg)
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I see someone's been to Farm and Fleet :)
What do you have for a shack?
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I have a frabill trekker.
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I'd use 3 of these or similar
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Seasense-8-LED-Multi-Purpose-Utility-Strip-Light-White/16651496
I have two 4" strips in my recon and it is pretty well lit... pictures here http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=293004
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I mocked up the LEDs in the shack. I was curious how bright they were! They aren't too bad. I think i will do 2 strips on 2 bars in the ceiling. And I will also wrap the LEDs around the tool box like someone else did on IC. (https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/10338513_617985273752_2464692527025405141_o.jpg)
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I use the Clam light stick in my portable. You can either replace a portion of one of your shack's poles with the light stick, or the smaller light stick comes with some S-clips that you simply attach to whichever pole in your shack you would like. The pic below shows what it looks like and the different S-clips that come with it. (different sizes for different pole diameters)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/ClamLightStick_zps56cbd364.jpg)
I have my light stick attached to the top pole. When I want the light to be dimmer, I simply twist the light stick to point the LEDs upwards. Now that I have the portable power box with the dimmer switch to power the light stick, I will really be able to control the amount of light I have.
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Hey guys! I'm looking to build myself a power box. I only need something pretty basic. A USB charger and a few LED strips and puck lights with switches. Any pointers on where to start? ???
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Breaker (7a is probably good)
12v ciggarette outlet x 2
5v 7ma usb outlet on switch
Live post terminals on switch with optional dimmer( i would recomend putting the dimmer on the sled)
Led strip lighting around the sides of the box for lighting on a switch
16 ga wire should do the trick
crimp connectors ( get two tools one specificly for crimping connectors its well worth it)
Red to red ....black to black ....theres not too much to a 12v curcuit
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Hey guys! I'm looking to build myself a power box. I only need something pretty basic. A USB charger and a few LED strips and puck lights with switches. Any pointers on where to start? ???
I have a pretty detailed wiring diagram (very easy for a novice to follow) that I will try to get posted for you. You can pick and choose which items you want your power box to include.
Pics of my build are in this thread on page 13. I also posted a list of most of the parts that you can order online. I am very happy with how mine turned out. It's going to be very handy to have!
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Hi Ice_Addict--
I didn't see what size plastic box you used, could you please post the physical dimensions?
:) ;D
Thanks much & good fishing!!!!
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Hi Ice_Addict--
I didn't see what size plastic box you used, could you please post the physical dimensions?
:) ;D
Thanks much & good fishing!!!!
Below is a pic of the one that I used. You can get them at Wally World for about $12-$15. I like the shallow top part that closes and keeps the switches/ports clean and dry. Dimensions are listed as:
9.0 L x 14.0 W x 20.75 H (the height listed has to be with the lid open - it's only about 10-12" high with lid closed)
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af292/austincragoe/Ice%20Fishing/Ice%20Fishing%20Mods/FlambeauOutdoorsAmmoBox_zpsc57cc218.jpg)
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How are you guys running wires from whatever lights you have to the boxes?? In the poles or outside? Thats my last step... I'm running the strip LEDS with the adhesive backing. Just trying to determine the best way to get the wiring done so it dosnt cause me any headaches after its done.
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How are you guys running wires from whatever lights you have to the boxes?? In the poles or outside? Thats my last step... I'm running the strip LEDS with the adhesive backing. Just trying to determine the best way to get the wiring done so it dosnt cause me any headaches after its done.
I ran my wires outside of the pole and zip tied them to the pole.
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How are you guys running wires from whatever lights you have to the boxes?? In the poles or outside? Thats my last step... I'm running the strip LEDS with the adhesive backing. Just trying to determine the best way to get the wiring done so it dosnt cause me any headaches after its done.
I ran mine through the poles with an electricians fishtape and drilled holes for the wires to come out at the lights
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I ran my wires outside of the pole and zip tied them to the pole.
Any issues with wires getting tangled when setting up or taking down? I have a trekker dlx so i have to extend the poles setting up and retract when taking down. worried about having that much slack in the wires.
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after looking all the other power boxes i've gone and made my own. ;D
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1402.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1402.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1403.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1403.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1404.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1404.jpg.html)
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after looking all the other power boxes i've gone and made my own. ;D
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1402.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1402.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1403.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1403.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1404.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1404.jpg.html)
I am using the same can! My take on it is going to be a little different than you, however haha. I will post pics as soon as I get it done here shortly
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Very clean and simple. Looks good.
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Very clean and simple. Looks good.
yeah i'm happy with it. fits well in a flip over and doesn't take up too much space. my add lights but i like how it runs at the moment.
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I need some help with wiring my lights and fan, nothing too extensive. can you pm me to discuss please? thanks
after looking all the other power boxes i've gone and made my own. ;D
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1402.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1402.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1403.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1403.jpg.html)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww8/whytie/IMG_1404.jpg) (http://s700.photobucket.com/user/whytie/media/IMG_1404.jpg.html)
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Do you guys think that I would be alright just putting in one inline fuse between my batteries and the master switch? I have the pos and neg coming off the batteries going to 2 posts. (there is a master power switch on the positive between the batteries and posts. Thoughts? Or do I need to buy a whole fuse block? Also, should I get a 10 or 30 amp fuse? I have 2 posts, LED lights on the outside, and will have a voltmeter and cigarette adapter coming shortly.
This is what I was thinking: http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/attwood-ato-atc-in-line-fuse-holder/0000000030092 (http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/attwood-ato-atc-in-line-fuse-holder/0000000030092)
Thanks!
CI
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I did something simmilar, but i used a thermal breaker, run directly off the pos bettery terminal, fuses are a pain to replace on the ice where with a breaker, push the buttion and your back up and running
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I did something simmilar, but i used a thermal breaker, run directly off the pos bettery terminal, fuses are a pain to replace on the ice where with a breaker, push the buttion and your back up and running
But just one breaker for your entire setup? Not multiple? Thanks for info about the breaker too, by the way!
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Something like this?
http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/attwood-circuit-breaker/0000000063554 (http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/attwood-circuit-breaker/0000000063554)
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No, like this
http://www.amazon.com/Pushbutton-Thermal-Circuit-Breaker-Switch/dp/B00JDTVQXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420830501&sr=8-4&keywords=pushbutton+breaker
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No, like this
http://www.amazon.com/Pushbutton-Thermal-Circuit-Breaker-Switch/dp/B00JDTVQXO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420830501&sr=8-4&keywords=pushbutton+breaker
Oh ok. Wouldnt what I have there work the same? I just cant mount it to the outside of my box..
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Really like the ideas in this thread! But you know what IMO works better and is easier? This is directed at flip overs (in our perm shack have a deep cyle on a solar charge) Got mine on sale for $100cdn. USB,120 plugs, and 12v cig plugs. And able to boot snowmobile/truck if needed. Never have had it drain on me.
http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/eliminator-600a-400w-power-box-0112016p.html
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Really like the ideas in this thread! But you know what IMO works better and is easier? This is directed at flip overs (in our perm shack have a deep cyle on a solar charge) Got mine on sale for $100cdn. USB,120 plugs, and 12v cig plugs. And able to boot snowmobile/truck if needed. Never have had it drain on me.
Walleye, and I agree. I ended up picking up a smaller jump starter for $20(i talked a little old lady at a town wide sale, lol). I intend on running a small fan to disperse the Carbon monoxide from my heater and to charge my phone.
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Really like the ideas in this thread! But you know what IMO works better and is easier? This is directed at flip overs (in our perm shack have a deep cyle on a solar charge) Got mine on sale for $100cdn. USB,120 plugs, and 12v cig plugs. And able to boot snowmobile/truck if needed. Never have had it drain on me.
http://m.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/eliminator-600a-400w-power-box-0112016p.html
I've used one too but the battery went one year and it was out or warrenty. Definitly nice to have on the ice. but since I had left over batteries and the ammo box all I had to do was order the the other stuff which maybe cost 25$.
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In the kayak, I'm using a stealth cam 12 v battery box with a 7 Amp Hour battery, re-wired with a quick disconnect to run a Humminbird 597... it stuffs up behind the seat, and it runs about 5 and a half pounds.
I found Li-ion battery packs with either 6.8 , 9.8 or even 12.8 amp hour ratings online, and decided to use a 6.8 to replace a SLA battery that wasn't holding a charge. Figure I can up-size in the future if necessary.
Using ideas from this thread, and ones on a kayaking forum, here's what I can up with as a replacement set-up:
It's got a watertight connection that I had to re-do on the kayak and my 2 humminbird soft-sided bags (1 has a base for 597, and the other a PiranhaMax 176i) and also a double USB port to charge the smart phone or any other USB device that I bring along.
I used a couple of water tight plastic boxes to mount everything, with 2 switches to turn on or off the power cords.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/both_units.jpg)
A look inside at the battery and the wiring.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/inside.jpg)
And a better look at the USB plug. I used this style because there wasn't enough space in the box for a surface mount USB plug.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/usb_plug.jpg)
Either battery box fits inside the humminbird soft case, and I can leave the USB plug outside of the case to access it. The Plano box and battery weight in a 15 oz, and the pelican box at 19 oz.
This is a stock photo of the stealthcam box that I'm ditching:
(http://assets.academy.com/mgen/01/10047801.jpg?is=500,500)
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Just wanted to share my space saver/multi hut solution
Mounts under the seat... 4 circuits for over head, behind/tub, and ice lights both on the sled behind my heels and on the side facing down
(http://i.imgur.com/EccfvELl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AcKu2C1l.jpg)
Each circuit plugs in via a DC barrel jack
(http://i.imgur.com/jLU0CRil.jpg)
The guts...
(http://i.imgur.com/vqwRXYxl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fRcB0EGl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KbwWrj4l.jpg)
And the fifth jack (left most) has no switch, used for vex back up, and to charge the battery with out taking it apart every time.
(http://i.imgur.com/hlg2T5ml.jpg)
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that's the nicest set up I've seen so far. what is the case from and where could i get one ???
cheers
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that's the nicest set up I've seen so far. what is the case from and where could i get one ???
cheers
If that was to me, thanks, and here is a similar box to what I used. Mine was a left over from another project, can't exactly remember where I got it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plastic-Waterproof-Sealed-Power-Protector-Junction-Box-230mmx150mmx85mm-/321280386949?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acdcda785
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Where did you get the batteries?
In the kayak, I'm using a stealth cam 12 v battery box with a 7 Amp Hour battery, re-wired with a quick disconnect to run a Humminbird 597... it stuffs up behind the seat, and it runs about 5 and a half pounds.
I found Li-ion battery packs with either 6.8 , 9.8 or even 12.8 amp hour ratings online, and decided to use a 6.8 to replace a SLA battery that wasn't holding a charge. Figure I can up-size in the future if necessary.
Using ideas from this thread, and ones on a kayaking forum, here's what I can up with as a replacement set-up:
It's got a watertight connection that I had to re-do on the kayak and my 2 humminbird soft-sided bags (1 has a base for 597, and the other a PiranhaMax 176i) and also a double USB port to charge the smart phone or any other USB device that I bring along.
I used a couple of water tight plastic boxes to mount everything, with 2 switches to turn on or off the power cords.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/both_units.jpg)
A look inside at the battery and the wiring.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/inside.jpg)
And a better look at the USB plug. I used this style because there wasn't enough space in the box for a surface mount USB plug.
(http://www.frontiernet.net/~jjbat150/icebox/usb_plug.jpg)
Either battery box fits inside the humminbird soft case, and I can leave the USB plug outside of the case to access it. The Plano box and battery weight in a 15 oz, and the pelican box at 19 oz.
This is a stock photo of the stealthcam box that I'm ditching:
(http://assets.academy.com/mgen/01/10047801.jpg?is=500,500)
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Where did you get the batteries?
Do a Amazon or Ebay search for "12v Li-ion battery pack" to get started, lots of different models out there.
When you do find ones to purchase, watch where they are being shipped from... some of the cheaper ones are China and are shipped on the proverbial "slow boat from China".
They are more expensive then SLA batteries, but the trade-off in size and wight are worth it. There are also some other advantages and a few gotchas.
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries (http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries)
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries (http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries)
Figure I can get through ice fishing season OK, but before breaking the kayak out in the spring I want to get a smart charger for them.
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Here is my attempt:
(http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/aaroncthompson1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/ADA6C2E9-E7AF-4B75-A7D5-75DFB47B9ED5_zpssxakazwn.jpg) (http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/aaroncthompson1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/ADA6C2E9-E7AF-4B75-A7D5-75DFB47B9ED5_zpssxakazwn.jpg.html)
(http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/aaroncthompson1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/60A888C1-C8B1-4705-A7F4-3FDE72077CB9_zpswvisykvu.jpg) (http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/aaroncthompson1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/60A888C1-C8B1-4705-A7F4-3FDE72077CB9_zpswvisykvu.jpg.html)
(http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/y359/aaroncthompson1/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/73DD0099-AC2B-4C85-9C48-6097634A6C2A_zpszuguhvjc.jpg) (http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/aaroncthompson1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-01/73DD0099-AC2B-4C85-9C48-6097634A6C2A_zpszuguhvjc.jpg.html)
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Looks great Clear_Ice! Very similar to my build. I have been really happy with mine so far. I wish I had thought about using breakers instead of fuses, but not a big deal. I just keep a bunch of 5a fuses in the case.
I've used mine to test and power quite a few things since I built it. It comes in handy, that's for sure!
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Yeah mine has been working out pretty well so far! My question is, how long does it take you guys to charge yours? And when its fully charged, what should the voltage reading be?
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Yeah mine has been working out pretty well so far! My question is, how long does it take you guys to charge yours? And when its fully charged, what should the voltage reading be?
I just leave my flasher/sonar charger hooked up to it overnight (I have three 8Ah batteries hooked in parallel). Or I put the trickle charger on it if I am recharging my sonar/flasher. My voltage reading is usually 13.4 or so when it's charged, I think. I know it reads above 13. I don't have one of those fancy electrical tester things that could show how much charge it has so I am flying by the seat of my pants.
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I let mine charge overnight and it now reads 13.1 volts after being off the charger for 6 hours.
I left the LEDs around my box on for 24 hours, and the battery went from 12.3v to 11.8v. Cant beat that!
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I let mine charge overnight and it now reads 13.1 volts after being off the charger for 6 hours.
I left the LEDs around my box on for 24 hours, and the battery went from 12.3v to 11.8v. Cant beat that!
That's awesome! I thought of trying that. I might try hooking it up to my computer fans in my enclosed trailer to test how long they run too. Shouldn't really hurt the batteries I wouldn't think.
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Excellent!
I present to you the Undead Power Box.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131212_195801_703_zpsp2vohwa2.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131212_195801_703_zpsp2vohwa2.jpg.html)
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/9d623f7d-d03a-4515-8c5a-bba9864dd6c4_zpseb06c0f7.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/9d623f7d-d03a-4515-8c5a-bba9864dd6c4_zpseb06c0f7.jpg.html)
Ok so I got a little carried away with the batteries, but they fit so nicely! ;D
Digital voltmeter display, 1/4 20 stainless posts, box LEDs and USB charger are waiting inline to be installed.
I should have more progress pictures later tonight.
Thank you again Henry for the circuit breaker part number, it fits in nicely!
If you don't mind me asking, what size battery's are those??? I really like the set up..
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Oh ok. Wouldnt what I have there work the same? I just cant mount it to the outside of my box..
It would work, but the whole point of a breaker vs a fuse is conveinence, and if its inside the box.....
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Just wanted to share my space saver/multi hut solution
Mounts under the seat... 4 circuits for over head, behind/tub, and ice lights both on the sled behind my heels and on the side facing down
(http://i.imgur.com/EccfvELl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/AcKu2C1l.jpg)
Each circuit plugs in via a DC barrel jack
(http://i.imgur.com/jLU0CRil.jpg)
The guts...
(http://i.imgur.com/vqwRXYxl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fRcB0EGl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KbwWrj4l.jpg)
And the fifth jack (left most) has no switch, used for vex back up, and to charge the battery with out taking it apart every time.
(http://i.imgur.com/hlg2T5ml.jpg)
Mack, very clean set up. Where did you get your female barrel jacks from?
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Although my Power box is no where near as sophisticated as others it has severed me well on my outings ...no on or off switch ...or lights (still thinking about adding them though)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag111/justpix4me/DSCN0280_zpswqhbzvln.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag111/justpix4me/power20box_zps2smx3xfm.jpg)
and what its true purpose was for
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag111/justpix4me/DSCN0283_zps491odv8a.jpg)
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What kind of batteries do you use for those power boxes? And where does a guy find them?
Thanks
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Hardwater Diehard- The lights permanently fixed to the box are extremely nice! I stopped bringing my lantern because of it
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nice work
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Used what I had available. Would or will do the next one a little different.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8753/16163490114_11acfdc7c6.jpg)
Picked up a 42 LED waterproof strip in the clearance isle at Walmart.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8579/16599684449_a032b6798c.jpg)
Nice results.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8605/16578551547_06ec09dcdc.jpg)
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My version of the power box was to take the control panel off of a jump pak, and mount it into the cover of an old tool box, after cutting the right size hole. It has a master on and off switch, light switch, and two 12v cigarette plug ins. I put one battery on the other side of the tool box handle, there's room for another, and will use it to run my camera, vex, charge phone if needed, and there's a plug in to charge the battery. Thanks everyone that has contributed to this thread.
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(http://i.imgur.com/XtpngOC.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/PEZw7LI.jpg?1)
Got Mine all done last week. 12v socket, LED floodlight, fan from a computer, USB and battery gauge. A ton of wires because I wanted a switch for each accessory. Works great!
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they are looking good!
sorta supprised no one in the industry has picked this up and ran with it yet.
Got Mine all done last week. 12v socket, LED floodlight, fan from a computer, USB and battery gauge. A ton of wires because I wanted a switch for each accessory. Works great!
nice! you can get a finger gaurd for that 4" fan cheap. just uses the bolts/screws your using now. they come in chrome and gold. would add a nice touch to it and keep it safer in transport. i may add one to mine after seeing it done to move the heat/cold in the hut around. good idea!
heres a 5 pack cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Metal-Grill-Protector-Finger/dp/B00OK9FR9Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1440166776&sr=1-3&keywords=Case+Fan+Finger+Guard
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they are looking good!
sorta supprised no one in the industry has picked this up and ran with it yet.
nice! you can get a finger gaurd for that 4" fan cheap. just uses the bolts/screws your using now. they come in chrome and gold. would add a nice touch to it and keep it safer in transport. i may add one to mine after seeing it done to move the heat/cold in the hut around. good idea!
heres a 5 pack cheap
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Metal-Grill-Protector-Finger/dp/B00OK9FR9Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1440166776&sr=1-3&keywords=Case+Fan+Finger+Guard
Great idea thanks!
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I enjoy reading about everyone's ideas for power boxes, I want to make mods to my flipover that I will pull with a snowmobile and not worrying about weight. I will use a deep cycle battery,and not sure of which switches to use. You guys that use power boxes, do you like the toggle switches, or the rocker switches better, and why? I don't plan on having too may circuits, maybe 4, but will have room for 6. Oh yea, lighted switches in the on position, or not. Thanks.
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I enjoy reading about everyone's ideas for power boxes, I want to make mods to my flipover that I will pull with a snowmobile and not worrying about weight. I will use a deep cycle battery,and not sure of which switches to use. You guys that use power boxes, do you like the toggle switches, or the rocker switches better, and why? I don't plan on having too may circuits, maybe 4, but will have room for 6. Oh yea, lighted switches in the on position, or not. Thanks.
I tried a couple different types of 12v swtiches and these were my favorite. Easiest to install
http://www.amazon.com/NTE--None-Off-Lighted-Waterproof-Switch/dp/B007Z7L8A2/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1440248149&sr=8-18&keywords=12v+switch
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You guys that use power boxes, do you like the toggle switches, or the rocker switches better, and why? I don't plan on having too may circuits, maybe 4, but will have room for 6. Oh yea, lighted switches in the on position, or not. Thanks.
light on when switched to on as an power on indicator. easier to see in the dark to turn a switch off. also, lets you know if it was turnedon accidently. i think they use led in them now, so not bad on power drain.
toggle switch is easiest because you drill the opening (most times), but rocker is low profile and harder to break it and harder to accidently acitvate a switch.
a flip with guards would be a nice look, but still high profile.
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Rocker switches....toggles break ( or I snap them off) in the tight confines of a flip
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@ SIDEPORK That's a nice looking box! Looking at making mine out of a plastic ammo can, question for you. Do you need the fan? I mean does the box build that much heat that at near freezing temps that it's needed? Not trying to criticize just want to know for when I go to build mine.
I have access to some deep cycle batteries that came out of emergency lighting and I'm going with a pair of them and a solar charging mat to top them off when not in use. Weight isn't a factor as I use a Smitty sled or pull my flipover behind my ATV.
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@ SIDEPORK That's a nice looking box! Looking at making mine out of a plastic ammo can, question for you. Do you need the fan? I mean does the box build that much heat that at near freezing temps that it's needed? Not trying to criticize just want to know for when I go to build mine.
I have access to some deep cycle batteries that came out of emergency lighting and I'm going with a pair of them and a solar charging mat to top them off when not in use. Weight isn't a factor as I use a Smitty sled or pull my flipover behind my ATV.
I put the fan on there pointed so it blows outward. Hopefully it will circulate a little air in my portable :)
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@ SIDEPORK That's a nice looking box! Looking at making mine out of a plastic ammo can, question for you. Do you need the fan? I mean does the box build that much heat that at near freezing temps that it's needed? Not trying to criticize just want to know for when I go to build mine.
I have access to some deep cycle batteries that came out of emergency lighting and I'm going with a pair of them and a solar charging mat to top them off when not in use. Weight isn't a factor as I use a Smitty sled or pull my flipover behind my ATV.
I was doing some demo work and was given some emergency lights, and was going to use them in a power box, when I took the batteries out, they were 6volt. Might want to check yours.
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Love this idea guys. I'm thinking of using a cooler for the box. As I do not use a shelter here in WA. But even at 10-20 deg. Battery life is shortened. I also plan to run a power inverter and my makita charger to re charge the batteries for my drill powered Nils. I hole hop and drill 100 plus holes in a full day. I'm hoping the heat put off from the inverter and charger will be enough to warm the cooler. I'll be using two 18ah batteries I already have. This will also run an LED strip running around my jet sled for light. Found a neat digital temp gauge with two thermometers so I can monitor time inside cooler vs outside.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VR0P02?colid=2HIUNZG937L6S&coliid=I174O6A1SBV55&ref_=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_img (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VR0P02?colid=2HIUNZG937L6S&coliid=I174O6A1SBV55&ref_=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_img)
Here is a great digital gauge that shows volts, amps, and watts used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYAV6?colid=2HIUNZG937L6S&coliid=I4YE3YJX6GWCN&psc=1&ref_=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYAV6?colid=2HIUNZG937L6S&coliid=I4YE3YJX6GWCN&psc=1&ref_=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl) great builds guys. And great site.
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Figured I would post my build on here to hopefully give back to someone looking for ideas because I know this is where I got the idea to put one together. I used 2 18AH SLA batteries and wired up a waterproof 12V accessory/2-USB plug port, a short LED strip cut to size to wrap around the box for a lantern effect, and two banana plugs that I can connect alligator clips on to or connect my long strip of LED's for my shanty that I've soldered the male end of the banana plug to. I can also charge the batteries on the two banana plugs connections. I have wired up a 10amp breaker and 3 switches. One switch for the USB ports and amp meter, one switch for the box LED's, and one switch for the banana plug posts. I bought a dimmer switch, but I haven't decided if I'm going to bother using it, I don't think the LED's are unbearably bright.
I got everything from Amazon and eBay and I think it all added up to around $70 (not including the free batteries). I chose the Flambeau box because I can cover everything up nicely when not in use. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions...
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151019_003_zpsqvdcq9og.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151019_003_zpsqvdcq9og.jpg.html)
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151019_002_zps7gygs1cg.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151019_002_zps7gygs1cg.jpg.html)
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151004_002_zpsk90dpimr.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151004_002_zpsk90dpimr.jpg.html)
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151004_003_zpsqb30sj3x.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151004_003_zpsqb30sj3x.jpg.html)
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151019_004_zps04ixgqwc.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151019_004_zps04ixgqwc.jpg.html)
(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/RStock521/WP_20151019_005_zpsgjxnft33.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/RStock521/media/WP_20151019_005_zpsgjxnft33.jpg.html)
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Awesome looking box! How many batteries?
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most people run 2 in parallel but 1 will suffice, 3 gets to be heavy, but if that's not an issue ie your in a permy you might be better off with a full deep cycle.
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I'm using 2 18AH batteries that I got for free from work. We use them in the UPS backup that we have and they give us 4 new ones each year to make sure they're "fresh". We're supposed to send them back, but I can recycle them juuusstt fine ;) The box is a little heavy, but it is what it is
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I'm using 2 18AH batteries that I got for free from work. We use them in the UPS backup that we have and they give us 4 new ones each year to make sure they're "fresh". We're supposed to send them back, but I can recycle them juuusstt fine ;) The box is a little heavy, but it is what it is
throw it on a bath room scale I am wondering how much they weight? weighted mine at 45lbs... mine is a deep cycle boat battery with a 72 amp hour capacity.. wondering if I should go two 18 amp hours or a two 35 amp hours is why I ask? for sure could use a weight reduction...
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Mack, very clean set up. Where did you get your female barrel jacks from?
Sorry forgot about this. Ebay, I don't remember which ones exactly but, "panel mount barrel jack" should give you several options
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throw it on a bath room scale I am wondering how much they weight? weighted mine at 45lbs... mine is a deep cycle boat battery with a 72 amp hour capacity.. wondering if I should go two 18 amp hours or a two 35 amp hours is why I ask? for sure could use a weight reduction...
My setup weighed in at 27lbs
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My setup weighed in at 27lbs
I got to do Some load calac's but that would be 20 lbs ligther.. thanks for your time..
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Tis the season to start the ice fishing projects.
Changing things up from last years Zombie power box. It did work great, but it was an extra item I had to carry with every time I went out.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg.html)
Working on the new and improved version. It will be integrated into the Otter Sportsmans Console that stays in the fish house.
I have never filled up the center console, so the space taken up by this isn't a concern.
It will run the house lights and USB charging. The piece out the front will hold a tablet for the underwater camera or act as a rod holder.
(http://i.imgur.com/izzfnhgl.jpg)
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Tis the season to start the ice fishing projects.
Changing things up from last years Zombie power box. It did work great, but it was an extra item I had to carry with every time I went out.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg.html)
Working on the new and improved version. It will be integrated into the Otter Sportsmans Console that stays in the fish house.
I have never filled up the center console, so the space taken up by this isn't a concern.
It will run the house lights and USB charging. The piece out the front will hold a tablet for the underwater camera or act as a rod holder.
(http://i.imgur.com/izzfnhgl.jpg)
That's cool. My budy just got an otter with the center counsel, and he is doing the same thing with it that you are. That is one heck of a center counsel. Blows out the clam one by far. Has anyone tried an otter counsel in a clam?
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I'm putting my box together tomorrow. 2x 18ah batteries and a cooler. I'll post some more photos tomorrow.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151122_150719.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151124_201321.jpg)
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Late Season--
Can you post a pic of the wiring in your Zombie battery box?
I have the same box and want to get a look at how you wired it up.
Thanks!
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I just wanted to say thank you to j_edwards and all the contributors who started this powerbox ideas! I made one myself few months ago used it few times in open water boating and i cant wait to try it out on the ice! Will post pics as soon as i figured it out how to. ;D
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Finished my new box. The Zombie box is now a husk in the corner.
Used the otter center console and put 30ah of batteries in it. 4 USB plugs to recharge devices. Bulkhead SAE connector to plug the house lights and dimmer in.
(http://i.imgur.com/PRL9Vmzl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vUWN725l.jpg)
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I have almost finished my cooler battery box. I don't fish front a flip over. But wanted portable power. Thanks so much to everyone here for the great ideas. I have two of these coolers to put in my Jet sled 1. One cooler is for fish and a seat. The other houses my 18ah batteries wired to 12v. It has double stacked led lights run around it as a lantern. A magnetic switch for a 6" strip led in the lid to light inside the box. And will power the same double stacked LED strip sounding my Jet Sled. The box also has a volt/amp meter and USB port. I will be installing my power inverter and Makita charger incase KY drill powered nils dies. With 4 batteries it is rare. Also mounted a Rapala 6 pole mount on the back.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_163909.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_160739.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_171333.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_141809.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_134754.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a69/TeamTHP/20151128_105010.jpg)
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Edit: Heres my simple powerbox i made few mos ago. ;D
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/Ryan_Deguzman/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpskmltdmrz.png) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Ryan_Deguzman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpskmltdmrz.png.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/Ryan_Deguzman/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshsc0llw8.png) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Ryan_Deguzman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshsc0llw8.png.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/Ryan_Deguzman/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqld3fox8.png) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Ryan_Deguzman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqld3fox8.png.html)
(http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/vv29/Ryan_Deguzman/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszzs6lctk.png) (http://s666.photobucket.com/user/Ryan_Deguzman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszzs6lctk.png.html)
Usb,Voltmeter, plugs-$12 ebay
Led Switch x4-$5 ebay
Binding post-$3 ebay
6 circuit Fuse box w/ grd-$18 ebay
Bat box-$6 menards
9ah 12v Battery-$20 gander mountain
6" led light-$15 bass pro
= aprox. $79
I like the portability that i can take it everywhere. Such as open water fishing, camping, and next hardwater fishing. Thanks again! ;)
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Tis the season to start the ice fishing projects.
Changing things up from last years Zombie power box. It did work great, but it was an extra item I had to carry with every time I went out.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t164/Freaks-Photos/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg) (http://s160.photobucket.com/user/Freaks-Photos/media/IMG_20131223_230616_922_zps40a287ca.jpg.html)
Working on the new and improved version. It will be integrated into the Otter Sportsmans Console that stays in the fish house.
I have never filled up the center console, so the space taken up by this isn't a concern.
It will run the house lights and USB charging. The piece out the front will hold a tablet for the underwater camera or act as a rod holder.
(http://i.imgur.com/izzfnhgl.jpg)
Finished my new box. The Zombie box is now a husk in the corner.
Used the otter center console and put 30ah of batteries in it. 4 USB plugs to recharge devices. Bulkhead SAE connector to plug the house lights and dimmer in.
(http://i.imgur.com/PRL9Vmzl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vUWN725l.jpg)
Do you want to sell your Zombie box?
I'm in St. Paul.
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Just picked up a flip up shanty this is on my list to do before the lake to freeze over along with lights. I think I'm going to put red and green navigation light like a boat just for a laugh
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Just picked up a flip up shanty this is on my list to do before the lake to freeze over along with lights. I think I'm going to put red and green navigation light like a boat just for a laugh
Hahaha!! That is funny
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Has anybody tried using the multi color LEDs with a dimmer/color changer so you could use green or red at night? Would it be worth doing?
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Definitely a how to and parts list. That's a must on the ice!!! Great job!
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Built my own today. I saw some pics on this site and got inspired. Mine is small, but has 2 cig lighter outlets and 2 usb as well as volt meter. a pair of 6 amp cells should give me more than enough power for some lights as well as a place to plug in my flasher should I need some extra hours. Added a pigtail connector so I can hook up to my Noco genius battery charger/maintainer when not in use.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/37734845366_8c6f88b31d_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/37074280724_cf54eca45a_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/37734844466_62001a6a69_c.jpg)
I also added a COB LED chip to use it as a flashlight, this thing is ridiculously bright. I am not sure of the lumen output, but it is plenty bright for my needs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37114049303_af9c59088c_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/37784077621_db22714511_c.jpg)
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If you're using LED strip lights in you shacks. How are you connecting the strips together if you've cut them? I am trying to solder regular wire to them but it will not work. I am using a 14ga copper wire. Am I using the wrong type of wire?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-GAUGE-50-FT-RED-BLACK-ZIP-WIRE-AWG-CABLE-POWER-GROUND-STRANDED-COPPER-CAR-/271177863316?hash=item3f2375d094:g:d~EAAOxyyF5RT0F1&vxp=mtr
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Mdubc,
Did you tin the tips of the wires first? This helps in that regard. I put up lights in my hub shelter and ran into the same problem with that. If you tin the tips then solder them to the connections it will have a better connection. Also, make sure that you expose the little + and - connections on the LED strips. I had the waterproof ones and had to cut away the plastic sleeve to expose them. Once they are exposed, you can solder the ends together. I didn't use wire to hook up to another strip, I just meshed two strips together. Hope this helps.
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Luckyowen,
I went over and tinned the wires first and resoldered them and it worked. Thanks for the tip.
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Light box and LED lights in the Kenai complete! Now I need some ice to try it out on.
I mounted 2-2ft strips of LED's in my shack and it is the perfect amount of light.
It was a good learning experience in some basic electric and soldering.
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Mdubc
Awesome, glad it helped.
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If you're using LED strip lights in you shacks. How are you connecting the strips together if you've cut them? I am trying to solder regular wire to them but it will not work. I am using a 14ga copper wire. Am I using the wrong type of wire?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-GAUGE-50-FT-RED-BLACK-ZIP-WIRE-AWG-CABLE-POWER-GROUND-STRANDED-COPPER-CAR-/271177863316?hash=item3f2375d094:g:d~EAAOxyyF5RT0F1&vxp=mtr
Have you seen these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solderless-Clip-on-Coupler-Connector-2pin-4pin-RGB-for-3528-5050-LED-Strip-Light-/261985429330?var=&hash=item3cff8c6752:m:mJnJwq-Cp8I7VxQ7Rz8M-BQ
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If you're using LED strip lights in you shacks. How are you connecting the strips together if you've cut them? I am trying to solder regular wire to them but it will not work. I am using a 14ga copper wire. Am I using the wrong type of wire?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14-GAUGE-50-FT-RED-BLACK-ZIP-WIRE-AWG-CABLE-POWER-GROUND-STRANDED-COPPER-CAR-/271177863316?hash=item3f2375d094:g:d~EAAOxyyF5RT0F1&vxp=mtr
yep, just twist them tight and tin them first to keep strays at bay. dip in flux and the tinning is fast. use hot glue to toughen it all up afterwords so the wires don't pull the solder pads off the strip. you could make a small U shape before hot glue to act as a strain relief too. tin the solder pads on the strip too.
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just found this on ebay, looking at maybe ordering it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3-1A-Dual-USB-Charger-Voltmeter-Triple-Socket-Power-Outlet-Marine-Plug-Jack-/141758997175?hash=item21017ea2b7:g:NhsAAOSwjVVV4B1j (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3-1A-Dual-USB-Charger-Voltmeter-Triple-Socket-Power-Outlet-Marine-Plug-Jack-/141758997175?hash=item21017ea2b7:g:NhsAAOSwjVVV4B1j)
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just found this on ebay, looking at maybe ordering it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3-1A-Dual-USB-Charger-Voltmeter-Triple-Socket-Power-Outlet-Marine-Plug-Jack-/141758997175?hash=item21017ea2b7:g:NhsAAOSwjVVV4B1j (http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3-1A-Dual-USB-Charger-Voltmeter-Triple-Socket-Power-Outlet-Marine-Plug-Jack-/141758997175?hash=item21017ea2b7:g:NhsAAOSwjVVV4B1j)
That's the same unit I used cor my power box, but I found it on amazzon. I'm almost finished with mine, I'll post pics when I get it all put together. It went a little crazy on it.
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Wow guys some of those boxes are incredible.... I am going to have to try and build one finally.. Been lurking for a while at them..
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Ordered my stuff today, should be here Thursday and the Zombie can should be here next Wednesday. Excited for a portable power solution for all my outdoor needs!
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two more of these power boxes are being made. Thank you everyone for the wealth of info on these boxes!!! I can't wait to try it out in my new predator!! I ordered 2-15' strands of the waterproof LED lights. They should light up the shanty nice and bright. will post pics when they are completed
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I try the same think all the stuff is hooked up right turn on the toggle switch and it blows fuses.
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(http://i.imgur.com/XtpngOC.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/PEZw7LI.jpg?1)
Got Mine all done last week. 12v socket, LED floodlight, fan from a computer, USB and battery gauge. A ton of wires because I wanted a switch for each accessory. Works great!
how does that flood light work for you? im in the process of building one of these myself, and was planning on using one. just wanted to know if the light was bright enough to aim down to fish crappies with, use as an area light, and check traps from a distance in the dark. thanks!
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has anybody on here used the battery from their flasher and had their flasher hooked up as well as running a led light set as well as the two usb ports and the volt meter? if so how long has the battery lasted? just curious to see if i should piggyback to 12v 7.2mah batteries together instead of just running one. what i have for stuff already for this is a whole mess of 16ga wire, 10w led flood light, dual usb charging outlet, and voltmeter. One of the toggles will run the flood light, and one toggle will power the voltmeter and the cigarette power. trying to get a simple power diagram drawn up is harder than it seems. especially with the piggybacking of batteries. thanks in advance!!!
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Here is my power box, made with the zombie ammo can. I think I'm going to do something a little more legitimate with the wiring and make some posts to run everything too, i also need to have some posts for my charger to be connected to. Work in progress but fun none the less! :)
(http://i.imgur.com/bNhgUh6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zFkw0q6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/DUjsKsZ.jpg)
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has anybody on here used the battery from their flasher and had their flasher hooked up as well as running a led light set as well as the two usb ports and the volt meter? if so how long has the battery lasted? just curious to see if i should piggyback to 12v 7.2mah batteries together instead of just running one. what i have for stuff already for this is a whole mess of 16ga wire, 10w led flood light, dual usb charging outlet, and voltmeter. One of the toggles will run the flood light, and one toggle will power the voltmeter and the cigarette power. trying to get a simple power diagram drawn up is harder than it seems. especially with the piggybacking of batteries. thanks in advance!!!
You should have no problem running two batteries in parallel, and i agree that trying to connect everything gets to be a logistic nightmare :) I need to re-wire some of mine in a more friendly fashion, got in a hurry towards the end of mine.
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I've had mine done for awhile, but have been too lazy to post pictures. First time trying pics from my phone, so hopefully it works the first time.
I went a little crazy, but it turned out sweet. Borrowed ideas from everyone, so a big thank you to all of you guys.
I started with a .45 cal ammo can from gander. Ordered everything from amazon, except the box, and wire. Everything is ran through a 10 gang fuse block mounted inside.
Middle switch by the handle turns power on to the box, and the voltmeter/USB/cigarette ports. Switch to the top left turns on the box lights. The remaining three switches power shanty lights that are wired with barrel jacks for easy plug and play. The last barrel jack on the far right is where I plug in the charger, so I don't have to remove the battery.
I have two strips of LEDs that I have to attach to my flip over poles. I had enough leftover to make two strips for my new hub as well. Thanks again to all of the great ideas, I never would have thought this up on my own.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165830094_zpss63b278n.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165844670_zpscwcuio1c.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165858555_HDR_zpstt3haatc.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165936473_HDR_zpsrktxaqrs.jpg)
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Man i feel stupid, i was looking for an alternative to the cigarette lighter and apparently just didn't know what to look up! I may have to snake that idea for my LED's when i get them and rig one up for my underwater camera. Looks nice! :)
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I've had mine done for awhile, but have been too lazy to post pictures. First time trying pics from my phone, so hopefully it works the first time.
I went a little crazy, but it turned out sweet. Borrowed ideas from everyone, so a big thank you to all of you guys.
I started with a .45 cal ammo can from gander. Ordered everything from amazon, except the box, and wire. Everything is ran through a 10 gang fuse block mounted inside.
Middle switch by the handle turns power on to the box, and the voltmeter/USB/cigarette ports. Switch to the top left turns on the box lights. The remaining three switches power shanty lights that are wired with barrel jacks for easy plug and play. The last barrel jack on the far right is where I plug in the charger, so I don't have to remove the battery.
I have two strips of LEDs that I have to attach to my flip over poles. I had enough leftover to make two strips for my new hub as well. Thanks again to all of the great ideas, I never would have thought this up on my own.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165830094_zpss63b278n.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165844670_zpscwcuio1c.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165858555_HDR_zpstt3haatc.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165936473_HDR_zpsrktxaqrs.jpg)
Nutsicles - Where did you get the Barrel Jacks from? I've been looking for those but can't seem to find them.
Thanks
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OK430NQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OK430NQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)
Or lookup some version of that - while referred to as barrel jacks or connectors its harder then heck to find them searching that way. :)
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These are the ones I used. One of the previous posts a member put up a link to something similar. They also show the matching male plug towards the bottom of the page.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EQ1UWX4/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=414HynKLnCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=101YRP56WZN1PBNBDVQR
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Just found this thread, looks like another project
great ideas on this forum
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Perfect, Thank you.
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I will probably do this over the summer. I love stuff like this. Thanks for all the ideas.
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Been reading these posts for a while and I really liked the idea of the power box and led lights so I gave it a shot.
(http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p541/Hackny/LED%20Power%20Box/13CF5899-89FF-416A-9938-434DDFEACFC9_zpspkxvuevv.jpg) (http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/Hackny/media/LED%20Power%20Box/13CF5899-89FF-416A-9938-434DDFEACFC9_zpspkxvuevv.jpg.html)
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I used a RGB flood light and have RGB LED strips going across the poles in my shanty, this allows me to change colors and dim the lighting.
(http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p541/Hackny/LED%20Power%20Box/AFE2BF0F-0746-422D-8AC6-D9408C532F5E_zpsbi9ink2b.jpg) (http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/Hackny/media/LED%20Power%20Box/AFE2BF0F-0746-422D-8AC6-D9408C532F5E_zpsbi9ink2b.jpg.html)
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I am using 2 7ah batteries a fuse block I also have a quick connect for a charger battery tender. One switch runs the 12v plug, one for the volt meter and usb plug, one for the flood light, and one for the white led strip going around the box. The pennies were glued to the bottom to keep the batteries from sliding into the fuse block. The led strip going around the box starts on the inside of the box to light up the inside because that is where I store my cables for plugging into the shanty lights.
(http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p541/Hackny/LED%20Power%20Box/71CA0686-FFF0-4809-A4D8-35C0CE80C62B_zpsjkbqw7hn.jpg) (http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/Hackny/media/LED%20Power%20Box/71CA0686-FFF0-4809-A4D8-35C0CE80C62B_zpsjkbqw7hn.jpg.html)
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Here is the box I built. The battery in it was just to test everything out I put an AGM battery in it the same size. I put the light on it to tare down and pack up when done.
Battery: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K8E0WAG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=HB1MG8KLV1X1&coliid=I2CS16QK7RLGE8
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/SDATVER/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114839_zpsawzjf5k2.jpg) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/SDATVER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114839_zpsawzjf5k2.jpg.html)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/SDATVER/Mobile%20Uploads/20160118_175816_zpsczcvxzpf.jpg) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/SDATVER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160118_175816_zpsczcvxzpf.jpg.html)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/SDATVER/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114950_zpsa26bjhi2.jpg) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/SDATVER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114950_zpsa26bjhi2.jpg.html)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/SDATVER/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114909_zpsddz7a2v1.jpg) (http://s240.photobucket.com/user/SDATVER/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160120_114909_zpsddz7a2v1.jpg.html)
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Thanks to all of your guys great posts I was able to build my own battery box. I am going to post a list of part and post a few pictures to help the next guy.
Battery Box
Plano ammo box. $14.99 - Gander Mountain
From Amazon
12 Volt 12 amp deep cycle battery $27.99
HOTSYSTEM 5PC New 20A 12V Round Rocker Toggle Switch Blue LED $6.99
OLS PSZACCEPS051H 6-Way LED Illuminated Blade Fuse Box $12.99
Square D by Schneider Electric PK4GTACP 4 Terminal Ground Bar $4.99
Bandc Waterproof Marine Lighter Socket Power Outlet Socket 12v Plug $7.99
Mictuning DC 12V LED Digital Display Voltmeter Waterproof $8.80
BANDC PJH-RS-0123 Power Outlet Dual USB Charger Socket 2.1A 1A $6.82
KAWELLŽ 12W DC 10-30V 6500K LED Spot Beam 30 Degree Waterproof $15.99
RioRand 2-Piece Waterproof Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon Slim. $6.99
Hopkins 47965 2-Pole Flat Extension $2.99
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsr2czvhtq.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsr2czvhtq.jpeg.html)
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsf8zubzmi.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsf8zubzmi.jpeg.html)
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsrhcb08jt.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsrhcb08jt.jpeg.html)
See you on the ice....next year....
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Nice,but at a cost of $110 that's out of my budget
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Where do you guys buy your batteries? I've tried Fleet Farm and Menards to no avail. Am I looking in the wrong department? Also what's the best place to buy the wiring parts? Auto parts stores like Napa?
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Nevermind, found the goods at Fleet Farm. Working on the build right now.
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Who has this on their ammo can? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OK430NQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I'm trying to wire mine up. There are 3 terminals. Which ones are which for - and + ?
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The middle will be the positive pole, the negative would go to the pin on the opposite side leaving the one in the middle unused.
(http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g356/TheLiick/Untitled.jpg)
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Thanks for the info, man. I appreciate it.
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Thanks to all of your guys great posts I was able to build my own battery box. I am going to post a list of part and post a few pictures to help the next guy.
Battery Box
Plano ammo box. $14.99 - Gander Mountain
From Amazon
12 Volt 12 amp deep cycle battery $27.99
HOTSYSTEM 5PC New 20A 12V Round Rocker Toggle Switch Blue LED $6.99
OLS PSZACCEPS051H 6-Way LED Illuminated Blade Fuse Box $12.99
Square D by Schneider Electric PK4GTACP 4 Terminal Ground Bar $4.99
Bandc Waterproof Marine Lighter Socket Power Outlet Socket 12v Plug $7.99
Mictuning DC 12V LED Digital Display Voltmeter Waterproof $8.80
BANDC PJH-RS-0123 Power Outlet Dual USB Charger Socket 2.1A 1A $6.82
KAWELLŽ 12W DC 10-30V 6500K LED Spot Beam 30 Degree Waterproof $15.99
RioRand 2-Piece Waterproof Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon Slim. $6.99
Hopkins 47965 2-Pole Flat Extension $2.99
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsr2czvhtq.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsr2czvhtq.jpeg.html)
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsf8zubzmi.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsf8zubzmi.jpeg.html)
(http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt11/Wade_Ophus/image_zpsrhcb08jt.jpeg) (http://s593.photobucket.com/user/Wade_Ophus/media/image_zpsrhcb08jt.jpeg.html)
See you on the ice....next year....
OpheyW
Making a box similar to yours. Wondering how you attached the rocker switches inside the box? Did you do a friction fit, or are they glued in?
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I've had mine done for awhile, but have been too lazy to post pictures. First time trying pics from my phone, so hopefully it works the first time.
I went a little crazy, but it turned out sweet. Borrowed ideas from everyone, so a big thank you to all of you guys.
I started with a .45 cal ammo can from gander. Ordered everything from amazon, except the box, and wire. Everything is ran through a 10 gang fuse block mounted inside.
Middle switch by the handle turns power on to the box, and the voltmeter/USB/cigarette ports. Switch to the top left turns on the box lights. The remaining three switches power shanty lights that are wired with barrel jacks for easy plug and play. The last barrel jack on the far right is where I plug in the charger, so I don't have to remove the battery.
I have two strips of LEDs that I have to attach to my flip over poles. I had enough leftover to make two strips for my new hub as well. Thanks again to all of the great ideas, I never would have thought this up on my own.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165830094_zpss63b278n.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165844670_zpscwcuio1c.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165858555_HDR_zpstt3haatc.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n600/Nutsicles/Ice%20Fishing%202016/IMG_20160125_165936473_HDR_zpsrktxaqrs.jpg)
Nutsicles
I have a similar barrel jack in my box, wondering how you attached yours to the lid? My jacks seem a little loose and may push in when I connect my leads to them.
Cwavs1982
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Barrel jacks have a nut on them, you drill the hole to fit the threaded part of the barrel, and tighten the nut on the outside of the box. It should be fairly self-explanatory if you look closely at it.
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Hey Guys,
I'm going to attempt to make a power box as well, but I'm up in Canada and I can't get the stuff of Amazon.com, only Amazon.ca and that site's electrical component selection is limited - I can't get all the components that have been listed on this thread. But I can get this:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/Pic%202.png) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/Pic%202.png.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/Pic%201.png) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/Pic%201.png.html)
Seems like this would be a better, cheaper option - thoughts? Maybe I'm wrong...
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Yea, that seems like overkill for sure. I think mine was like $6USD - try maybe auto repair places - might spend a little bit more but definitely should be cheaper then $60.
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https://www.amazon.ca/XCSOURCE-Charger-Voltmeter-Cigarette-BC553/dp/B01F4QPER8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1475513028&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+panel
This is similar to mine, although more expensive, but you can do your own switches for cheap.
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My jacks don't have the threaded jack. I know the kind that you are referring to though. I am wondering if I can drill a slightly larger hole and push the jack past the first rib.
https://www.hitlights.com/dc-female-to-screw-terminal-connectors
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Hmmm, those jacks are certainly not designed for mounting in a box like the threaded ones. Maybe if you press fit them into a hole tightly enough, then apply lots of glue to the back they maye hold.
bb400guy - I too am in Canada and have been able to find all the needed parts to build a power box:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ZI5E7YC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00H8KT6YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are a great light for a power box, I prefer them to the LED strips that many are using:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LHMPDDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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That is what I was thinking. Had them on hand, so thought I might as well try these first. The LED lights I was using had connectors offered the connectors, but they only accept a 16/18 ga wire. May have to go find the threaded jacks if these don't work.
Thanks for the reply. Still have a few months before the hardwater comes, so still have time to work this out.
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Well, I found this same panel for $48.75 CND (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LW3WEDM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A14FJKT8970ZB1&psc=1), obviously it's China made and being sold by multiple sellers of different prices. After I add up all the individual costs for the separate components I'm within $10 of this panel. I think the clean look and ease of installation is worth the extra $$$.
I would still need a fuse panel right? And possibly one main on/off switch?
Warren_G: I'll get those LED lights, they look like a better option - thanks for the link!
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Most guys here recommend putting in at least an inline fuse coming off the battery. Some have used re settable circuit breakers. I put the mainline fuse in, but also put a fuse on the light circuit. Might be overkill but at least I know I am covered for any short that could happen.
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What is a good light? I need something close not big and bulky?
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What is a good light? I need something close not big and bulky?
welcome!
what do you want your light to be used for?
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Here's mine. I'm not quite finished yet as I have to add some holes to run the wires for the lights and flasher and add in some foam to keep the battery from sliding around. This is a pretty good box for me, it will work inside my flip over and when I go out to check the lines or extra light when I'm packing up. Those are two Rigid Industries Duallys, each 1000 lumen, so that's more than enough light.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/RSCN5326.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/RSCN5326.jpg.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/RSCN5331.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/RSCN5331.jpg.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/RSCN5334.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/RSCN5334.jpg.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/DSCN5338.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/DSCN5338.jpg.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/RSCN5342.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/RSCN5342.jpg.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/DSCN5337.jpg) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/DSCN5337.jpg.html)
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Sweet setup 400!!!
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Hey Guys,
I'm going to attempt to make a power box as well, but I'm up in Canada and I can't get the stuff of Amazon.com, only Amazon.ca and that site's electrical component selection is limited - I can't get all the components that have been listed on this thread. But I can get this:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/Pic%202.png) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/Pic%202.png.html)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/bb400guy/Pic%201.png) (http://s669.photobucket.com/user/bb400guy/media/Pic%201.png.html)
Seems like this would be a better, cheaper option - thoughts? Maybe I'm wrong...
Look to see what is available on places like ebay, in my experience ebay is a great source for components, but you have to know what your looking for.
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What is a good light? I need something close not big and bulky?
I wrapped a section of 5050 waterproof led strip along the lup and that works very well for me, it is not a search light, but it does well to light up the immediate area
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B86Z94/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_7
Just want to say that these switches suck. I've replaced 3 of them after they stop toggling.
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Rather than starting a new thread, I am posting to this one because it was the most helpful. A lot of great ideas here!
I used this video to walk me through the build, the only thing I changed was using breaker switches instead of fuzes and I added a dimmer switch for my shanty's LED lights.
I plan to use the extra space to toss in chargers and other goodies I might use with the box while on the lake. Next, I'm either going to make a light box or add one to this box for jigs.
(https://i.imgur.com/CTAxze2m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YwJqI57m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SX7qW6um.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qyOj7OVm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BlmWUwjm.jpg)
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Nice work, this is cool!!