Suggestions for Old Mora Handle

[DConICE]

Other than buy a new auger (I do have a new gas auger) I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion to prevent the two parts of my old Mora Auger from binding together.  The top half threads onto the bottom half (see pics). After drilling they are so bound up together they are a bear to separate.

On ice, near impossible to separate. Off ice I had to use the bench vise and even still felt as if I was going to twist/break the top before if finally gave way. Could have tried heat - but don't want to have to go through that process all the time. Plus I would like to be able to separate it for transport.

I have used an anti-sieze lubricant on the threads but it hasn't prevented it from happening. Thought about a washer between the two parts but not sure it will help.

Been dealing with it for years but decided I would toss it out there hoping maybe someone has been through this and found a solution.

Thanks in advance for any input...

[800stealth]

Maybe a plastic or teflon washer between the two halves?

[SALMONEMIA]

What if you have a piece made that screws onto the blue part of the auger. Then you could insert the handle into that piece and attach it using the giant wing nut that comes with the new style Mora auger. You can buy the wing nut online. Or just leave it together. Is that an option.

[SALMONEMIA]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ice-auger-adapter-for-threaded-augers-to-clam-plate-/172075585679?nav=SEARCH
Something like this

[Dispy]

Maybe a plastic or teflon washer between the two halves?

Agreed, double teflon washers coupled with a steel washer.

[KevNH]

I've had that issue before with a similar hand auger, I got rid of the threads & used a clevis pin. Depending on how big the threaded part of the shaft is, you might be able to do something like this -

[NHHARDWATER]

Maybe a plastic or teflon washer between the two halves?

X2 on the washer idea. Cheap. Simple. Effective.

You could also try a short cut off piece of 1" pvc just enough. To act as a spacer and allow it to give to break the threads binding. Also take a wire wheel to those threads to cleam them up a bit.

[fisherhawk55]

The clevis pin idea works i use it on mine ,also the washer might work to but whatever you do ,go get some mechanics anti seize paste at auto zone its water proof coat the threads in and out makes a big difference

[NHGunowner]

+1 for the washer idea. I suspect that it's not the threads binding, it's the edge of the female side ramping up over the land of the male side.
I would be working on ideas to stop that.
The pin will work, but the threads will still come into play. I would be concerned there would be enough deformation at the drilled hole to damage the threads during use. Particularly on the thinner handle side. Drilling that is harder than it sounds too. And you'd be committed to that once you start.

[fishingidjit]

Agreed, double teflon washers coupled with a steel washer.

I like this idea!

[PoolGuy]

Agreed, double teflon washers coupled with a steel washer.

I've used this in other applications and had the best results..

[DConICE]

Thanks Guys.... I'll definitely give the washer idea a shot... as stated below - cheap, simple, and hopefully effective. 

I have used the anit-seize and it does help, but a few tough holes  (esp. prior to new blades) and I couldn't crack it by hand after.  I'll clean up the threads too... they look worse in the photo than they are since there is some anti-seize on there still, but some maintenance of this old gear is certainly in order.

Thanks for the link for the adapter too... with all the thin ice I've been using this more than my 10" Jiffy and maybe a drill attachment may be in its future.

Clevis pin idea would be my last resort... (nice photoshop btw)  or I could just deal with carrying it long like I have been.

Thanks again - IS at its best.