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Well here is my prototype.The black piece is just a crimp I placed on the leader and it isn't crimped yet.The leader material is 7x7 49 strand ss cable. This is 175# test as that was handy but any size could be used. It was left long to show that you could put your hook anyplace you wanted and that you could use any hook you desired.The cable was slightly kinked and the end slightly frayed so it had good grip in the lead head.Pick your length and trim then form your loop and feed the cable back through the crimp and crimp it tight. Loop can be any size you desire.The line tie eye is a #0 ss eye such as is used in my slab jigs or fishing sinkers.This was just a quick prototype so no extra care was taken to make things perfect. These could also be powder painted or get a UV blast topcoat etc.
So far, so good. When you are all done you should snap another picture and show us. I bet if you were saavy enough to make it, patent it, and get it on the market, you would have no problem at all selling it in Alaska.
Need to add a stinger hook to the nose, most of the lakers I have caught like to take it head first.
Hey ChrisHere's an idea. What if you made them with a ring off the back instead of having the wire come out of the head?This way you would loop the wire through the rear eye and crimp. You could then crimp a hook in this loop as well as one on the tail of the wire for those of us that can use multiple hooked lures. It would also alleviate the area of strain where the wire exits the jig head.You could also replace the wire if it were to get kinked or start to show signs of wear.FYI, you would want the rear eye 90 degrees to the tying eye so that the wire loop sits in the correct orientation for the front hook to sit correctly.The jig it's self would really be a lead weight with two eyes on it and the user can customize to their needs.
Definetly an option to discuss with the guy cutting the mold.One issue is the eyes being 90* from each other. That makes it quite difficult to cut the mold and to make the mold work properly.Both eyes being the same orientation is much more easily done. Now I could possibly have it cut so I could add a swivel or bead chain to that back eye. Then you could split ring a hook to that and have proper orientation.
We fish a 1oz ballhead in all our big tubes here. If you are working the bait correctly the big lakers almost always eat the head. Stinger hooks are a good way to increase mortality rate, or hook one in the eye. But I do like the concept of the single hook further back. When I look at a tube jig that has been bitten, 90% of the teeth marks are at the head.
I don't use tubes anymore those are for people that can't catch whitefish.
It's a trade secret.😜
i am going to get an underwater UAV and swim that thing over to your shack and spy on your tube jigging skills
Guess I shouldn't have told you how to catch em.Seems to have gone to yer noodle!!!!
The biggest problem with bait fishing is mortality rate on big fish. Are you fishing a treble hook on the bottom bait?
Oh no your method only works during a certain time of year, and when I say work I mean it destroys them. Seems me and a couple of other guys figured out how to catch em all the time. Oh and it's not a good idea to leave a laker bait slack. When I rig my deadstickes I always keep them a foot off the bottom and I run a 4/0 octupus hook with a crimped bard. I've watched a lot of lakers and when they pick up a bait off the bottom they immediately suck it in, when they hit a suspended bait they tend to grab it and swim a little before they rebite and inhale. When guys are talking about short strikes what really happens is the fish just rushes in and grabs the bait from no particular angle and before the fish can rebite you end up setting the hook into a fish that is just holding your bait. Burbot are notorious for this they like to hold it till they get in the hole then spit it in your face.
No, single hook only at this lake. So far everyone has been right through the lips...