v1/v2 clam plate retrofit

[PikePetersen]

I purchased one of the first versions of the Clam auger plate years ago, the one where the drill chuck needed to be removed. My drill bit the dust and it's been sitting on the shelf since... Last I checked, that adapter is seized/stuck on the old drill.
I'm looking at getting a K-drill or lite-flite auger bit for the upcoming season and was thinking it might be nice to pair with the old drill plate. I'm wondering if anyone has purchased or built an adapter piece to retrofit the old version of the clam plate to work without needing to remove the chuck on the drill?(similar to their current version) I'm thinking maybe 6-8" piece with one end for the drill chuck to tighten onto and the other side attaches to the auger bit through the plate?

[PikePetersen]

Something like this... but this one says it's not compatible with the older version of the plate, anyone know why?
https://shop.clamoutdoors.com/drill-plate-hex-bit-shaft.html

[winterbuddy]

Something like this... but this one says it's not compatible with the older version of the plate, anyone know why?
https://shop.clamoutdoors.com/drill-plate-hex-bit-shaft.html

The brace for the drill is too short to accommodate the extra length necessary  on the v1 and 2 plate.  That's likely just one of the reasons..

[Agronomist_at_IA]

I purchased one of the first versions of the Clam auger plate years ago, the one where the drill chuck needed to be removed. My drill bit the dust and it's been sitting on the shelf since... Last I checked, that adapter is seized/stuck on the old drill.
I'm looking at getting a K-drill or lite-flite auger bit for the upcoming season and was thinking it might be nice to pair with the old drill plate. I'm wondering if anyone has purchased or built an adapter piece to retrofit the old version of the clam plate to work without needing to remove the chuck on the drill?(similar to their current version) I'm thinking maybe 6-8" piece with one end for the drill chuck to tighten onto and the other side attaches to the auger bit through the plate?

If you want to make it like a new plate.

You'l need to get the adaptor off the drill. Then get a very strong bolt to put in the end of the adaptor. Grind the sides of the bolt so that the chuck of the drill has something to grab.

Now you will need to ad a block under the panel the drill was u bolted to to raise up the panel.

After that it's finding various parts to modify the trigger so it can hit the drill trigger.

[Monticatgeek]

Something like this... but this one says it's not compatible with the older version of the plate, anyone know why?
https://shop.clamoutdoors.com/drill-plate-hex-bit-shaft.html

it is because the diameter of the shaft was slightly larger on the 1st gen plates and they also used a larger bearing then the 2nd gen to current gen plate does. to retro fit with the new smaller bearing, new shaft, trigger assembly, and bracket would cost almost as much as  just buying a whole new plate. you would be money and time ahead to just buy a new plate and not try to retro fit the old one.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

it is because the diameter of the shaft was slightly larger on the 1st gen plates and they also used a larger bearing then the 2nd gen to current gen plate does. to retro fit with the new smaller bearing, new shaft, trigger assembly, and bracket would cost almost as much as  just buying a whole new plate. you would be money and time ahead to just buy a new plate and not try to retro fit the old one.

A bolt, block of wood and a little tinkering with his plate and it should work fine. He just needs to get the shaft off the old drill.......At $90 for a new plate I wouldn't buy one. I'd just run the drill direct.

I know that a guy modded his old plate to be like the new ones a few years ago.....but I think he had a machine shop. He just did the hard bolt in the shaft, and made an aluminum block to raise the drill bracket.....can't remember what he did for the trigger.

Do they still have replacement shafts for the old plates if you call in?

[Monticatgeek]

A bolt, block of wood and a little tinkering with his plate and it should work fine. He just needs to get the shaft off the old drill.......At $90 for a new plate I wouldn't buy one. I'd just run the drill direct.

I know that a guy modded his old plate to be like the new ones a few years ago.....but I think he had a machine shop. He just did the hard bolt in the shaft, and made an aluminum block to raise the drill bracket.....can't remember what he did for the trigger.

Do they still have replacement shafts for the old plates if you call in?

they might have one of the old style shafts sitting around. you would need to call or email customer service and ask  or I could ask them tomorrow if they have any left. might be a long shot but won't know unless asked.

[Agronomist_at_IA]

Be nice of you to let mr pike Peterson know.

[chilly-willy]

Know any one with a welder? I welded a grade 8 bolt ware my chuck threads goes in to the clam plate.   I think it was like 1/2 - 20 x2.5 inch same threads as most chucks..  I cut the head off and ground flats on it.. I bottomed out the bolt and put a couple tack welds so it would not back out ..

[Monticatgeek]

Be nice of you to let mr pike Peterson know.

Spoke with customer service and looked around the warehouse. that adapter for the 1st gen plate is no longer in stock or made anymore. Customer service agreed that it is best to just buy the new style plate rather then try to retro fit the 1st gen plate.

[Damn Yankee]

Something like this... but this one says it's not compatible with the older version of the plate, anyone know why?
https://shop.clamoutdoors.com/drill-plate-hex-bit-shaft.html

The version1 Clam Plate had a 1" diameter shaft through the (very healthy pillow-block) bearing. The newer versions have a (I'm guessing after looking at one last year)18mm (approx. .710" diameter) shaft with a small (micky-mouse) bearing.
In my opinion the version1 had a much better bearing and shaft.
The shafts are no longer available for the version1.
A skilled machinist could make one. 1"diameter steel shaft, turn this end to .500" diameter, mill 3 equally spaced flats .030" deep, the other end turn to .875" diameter to accept either Pistol, K-drill or the new Strike master Lite. Hopefully the Strikemaster has a 7/8" diameter hole like all their other augers.
Use decent steel AISI-4140 or better. If you know "somebody" 17-4PH SS would be the ultimate.
Within the next few days I'll try to add a picture of one I did but I used a Milwaukee Kwik-Lok output so it's a bit different.
Also the newer Milwaukee drill w/chuck is a very tight fit on the Version1 Clam-Plate, as my picture will show.

[PikePetersen]

Thanks, interested to see what you came up with.

[Damn Yankee]

Sorry for the delay. My updated version 1 clam-plate-drill.
(1) As shown the Milwaukee drill is a tight fit. (2) Also required is the rework of the throttle trigger.
(3) My own unit has a Milwaukee Quik-Lok extension with a sleeve matching the 1" bearing of the Clam-Plate.
The various augers I own all have a 7/16" Hex. output to match the (4) Quik-Lok quick disconnect.