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With the plate, I can't easily remove the auger to use the Eskimo ice anchor adapter...Otherwise, I'd get it.
There's plenty of ways to make a quick disconnect to use the plate to turn an anchor...I know if I was to need a bunch of quick anchors (hub on windy days) I would find a way to use one of my impact drivers for that rig.. Uses same batteries anyway..<°)))>{
Well..... contrary to my previous posts.... my handle snapped off on the first hole today doing everything I said to do lol. Good thing going slow drills just as well. Still drilled about 10 holes after the first one and honesty it isn’t any more difficult without the auxiliary handle. Needless to say, looks like a clam plate is in my future....
I read through this thread a couple days ago. I use the 2704 with handle on my 8" Nils. Buddy of mine wanted to go electric on his 8" lazer. He bought the 2704 online and it won't be coming till next week and asked me to try it out with my 2704.Sure, but we're not using my handle. I drilled a few holes and told him to get the CLAM PLATE.
Was out yesterday drilling in 12 inches of good solid ice. My Milwaukee drilled no problems what so ever without the hand lever using a six inch k-drill. I chase panfish. I have heard of a lot of issues with the lever and Mora augers. Blades becoming unscrewed pop off and bind up. Then lever breaks offs.
The Milwaukee Mud Drill has some specs that could be a problem for ice drilling. It does not have a clutch, it has a button triggerlock and a max 550 rpm. So what could possibly go wrong? Someone locks the trigger at a higher rpm, the auger bit binds and locks, then comes a test - can you unlock the trigger fast enough or you enter a torque test between your wrists vs the auger bit vs the drill torque vs the battery. If it ripped the handles out of your hands how long do you have to wait for the battery to wear down before the drill stops spinning around in the hole? p.s. My buddy has a M18 with a Nils auger and I never felt any torque at breakthrough of the bottom of the hole. Some reports above say the Lazer auger develops torque at the bottom of the hole.
People breaking handles might not be drilling properly I think. The side handle is to stabilize, not absorb torque. Stick your leg/knee on the side of the battery to absorb the torque, if there is any. Year 3 of Milwaukee drill with Lazer auger. 1.5 years with an 8".
Going slower solves a lot of issues on it’s own.
think i would use it in screw mode and use the clutch to try to avoid breaking the casting.
That technique is OK if your auger drilled counter Clockwise.