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You just gotta figure that if you double the power through gear reduction that your going to get roughly half as many holes... at half the speed.
More than half speed, because with the gear reduction, the actual RPM of the drill motor will be higher because it won't be working nearly as hard.. Also more likely twice as many holes, because it's drawing less amperage and using a lot less juice...<°)))>{
no one mentioned this yet, but try it while your drills on high speed to get your hole cut at the same speed.there are other options like this already made and are complete. all you do is add your drill. this is not new to the sport, just new to clam. they have been copying others ideas for a while, and that's ok too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ice-kicker-II-geared-portable-ice-fishing-auger-adapter-/151910596313?hash=item235e93bed9:g:zzEAAOSwp5JWaEid
no one mentioned this yet, but try it while your drills on high speed to get your hole cut at the same speed.
IMO it won't work like that. You are reducing RPM by half but the motor will still be working because it has to spin twice as many revolutions to make the hole... There is absolutely no way it will drill twice as many holes.... but I like the optimism. It will be a $70 bandaid for a guy who wants to use a brushed drill or lower end drill that he already owns. I'm curious to see some credible reviews and performance tests on it. I have been working around electric motors and gear boxes most of my life and i will gladly admit it if im incorrect.I tried running my Milwaukee on high gear 1 time... I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS TO ANYONE. Lol.... my Mora auger and whole assembly was so unbalanced it didn't start drilling, it started walking at me. It barely missed my feet but just as easily could have taken off a toe or two and sent me for a bunch of stitches. How does that saying go "Don't try this at home"....
sooo... lots of good chat, but I have a dumb question.. I'm looking at the M18 Fuel - do I want the Hammer Drill/Driver Kit or the Drill/Driver kit?Thanks!
Generally speaking, the hammer drills are a little bit heavier due to the stronger components..My ridgid hammer drill actually has lower gears in both speeds than my regular ridgid drill.. It will run a big hole saw just fine, where as my non hammer will engage thermal shutdown during the same process...Lower gears can make all the difference at times.. Not sure how some people equate lower gears to only getting half the work done.. Sometimes lower gears will get the only work done...<°)))>{
Either Milwaukee will work, i have built them both ways and have had ZERO issues, the hammer model is preferred but not required. Just a reminder, If you are using the older model clam plate that requires chuck removal from the drill, and the Fuel with 1200in/lbs, you will need an adapter for the 9/16" spindle on the new Fuel. Clam has these available now.
If you really want to prove your theory you don't need ice..Just put a 1.5" spade bit, or a hole saw in your drill.. Grab a 2x4 or 4x4 scrap of wood..See how many holes you get on low speed, and then on high speed.. Which is no different than high and low gears...See how many holes you get out of one battery for each setting...We are talking about the number of holes per battery here, not the speed of drilling a couple holes...<°)))>{
Get the extension too.... you will thank me later.
Drilling through a wood 4x4 and shaving a 8" hole in a lake is way different. It comes down to a good combination of drilling speed, torque and battery life. Simply lowering the final drive by 1/2 probably won't help you shave more inches of ice. Like I said im sure a honest performance test on ice will prove me right.
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Topic: Drill for Clam Drill Plate (Read 13689 times)
