12v battery idea

[3300]

was thinking of alternate power source for lights etc. w/o the weight of lead sealed batteries.

i use Ridgid brand cordless tools and own some of their 12v line of tools.
got to looking at one of the 12v batteries over and noticed it has plenty of connectors, but two of them are marked (+) and (-) and have about a quarter inch slit to power the intended devices. so i grabbed some quarter inch spades and dry tested. fits perfect. so now you can leave the spades in the battery and pull the insulators off the spades (if yours has them) and use it as a power tap or crimp it to your light or light switch or console etc. they are so light weight you can carry two of them if need be. i have not field tested this to test longevity. if it works well as i presume it will, i might make a receiver for the battery to drop it into like the drills, impacts etc. have only much simpler. skipping todays ice at least.

i don't think it would be a traditional flasher battery replacement, but i think it would work fine with the new digital flashers. i might put it to the test on both just to see.

i have been watching other brands copy Ridgid or appears ( i know one company makes all modern cordless tools for all the other brands, but with customer specs.) they are and so other brand 12v modern batteries should work for you if you have them.

Ridgid batteries/tools have a lifetime warranty and so if i wear them out ice fishing who cares?
while i am on the subject of power and tools, i use the 24v Ridgid cordless drill to power my augers. have to use the extra handle or it can break your wrist. they have a push button power meter built into the 24v battery which is great on ice as batteries tend to self deplete.
sure makes drilling holes super easy and no gas/oil/stink any where to be found. have a spare 24v battery too and never needed more than two batteries. one battery can drill around 56 holes in 6" - 8" ice.

some one could get rich ( i think) if they built a water proof bag to use while in weather. either cinch strap or velcro or zipper in different sizes.

might look into other light sources next like PC lights.
also, a 5v tap from 12v source would be good to have on ice or otherwise for music and smart phones and mini tabs.

if this is in the wrong area to post the mod will move it, but i looked around to try to find where to post and did not see it.

[Kevin23]

That is a great idea I'm sure it will work fine for lighting.
The problem is, the battery is only 1.25ah vs the 7-9ah for sla flasher batteries. It would only run a digital fish finder for about 2 hours.

For reference, with one 18 inch LED strip you should get about 12 hours of run time on a full charge.

[sckoolman]

I would recommend putting a volt meter on the leads just to verify it is 12 volts or so.  I have noticed that for some drill batteries, they use multiple cells inside the battery and tie them together ( in series) to get up to the proper voltage.

As a side note, I bought a Shorai battery this year, normally used for starting motorcycles or ATVs.  It's lithium ion and incredibly light weight.  It was rated at 18AH, so double the normal flasher battery.  I have had one in my Vex all year and so far it has worked great.  The batteries are expensive and the guy from Shorai wanted to make it clear they are only designed for starting applications.  We'll see how it goes.

I'll be curious to hear how it works for you!

[fishinnut]

That is a great idea I'm sure it will work fine for lighting.
The problem is, the battery is only 1.25ah vs the 7-9ah for sla flasher batteries. It would only run a digital fish finder for about 2 hours.

For reference, with one 18 inch LED strip you should get about 12 hours of run time on a full charge.

I've run a digital fish finder on Canadian fly-ins with a battery pack of eight (8) AA batteries with no problem.

[3300]

still waiting for good ice so no field test yet.

i know these will be fine for lighting and also thought they would work for some time in a flasher if need be. say you forgot to charge main battery. gives you some extra time on ice. just saying.

i did ring out the voltage at the (+) and (-) posts to confirm i had 12v before i posted and was happy to see it could be a 12v source 3.3amp x 3 = 9.9 amps and wanted to share the discovery.
now i see what batteries are used and may build my own battery packs or just buy the holders and pop my single li-ons into it.
18650 (what companies are using in their battery packs) and 14500 are 4.2v charged. the 14500's are same size as double a batteries. only problem is you would wear them out and have to replace. 1 14500's is about $5.50. so $16.50 gets you another 12v source. would have to charge individually also. dx.com/s/14500+battery
you would get more runtime on the 18650's as they are about the size of a long "C" battery.  dx.com/s/18650+battery


sckoolman
that start battery most be the type of battery used in booster box's for when your car battery is low but not dead. i'll have to google it to see the specs, so thanks for that tip!
light weight and size matters on ice for sure.

fishinnut
you might want to look into the 14500's they will fit same as double A. you would only need 3 of them and a good portable charger. you can charge from 12v dc automotive or 120v ac. if you want to know what is good, let me know. you won't be throwing your money out so fast on disposable batteries. these charge for 400 charges. so whats 400 AA batteries cost?
just be sure to buy the protected type.

[Kevin23]

Where are you getting a 3.3ah ridgid battery? All I see is 1.25ah nicad or 3ah lithium. If you are going to rig three of them in series for 9ah, I dont understand why you wouldnt just buy a 12V 9ah sla.

three ridgid 3ah lithium batteries would be $120 in batteries. I know they replace them under warranty, but it still looks like a heck of a hassle to wire three of them together. You would have to charge 3 batteries every time and the three wired together would be bigger than a 12v 9ah sla. Wont weigh as much, but it will take up just as much space.

IMO you are just re-inventing the wheel. a $20 12v 9ah sla is about as good as it gets. Easy to charge, transport, can be used for anything, and lasts years with proper care.

[3300]

BBK
i am not using three ridgid batteries and did not say i was. i am saying after my original post that i found more information about batteries used in commercial battery packs, because you were so nice to inform us the rough run times (based on math i presume) on two appliances used in ice fishing.
they use the 18600 type battery and come in many different mah's. 3.3amp is from reading one cell in a pack made of three cells equaling 12v, thus 9.9 amp.,much lighter than a sealed LEAD acid battery and MUCH smaller (2.5" tall x 1.75 wide) and personal weight scales can not even read the weight, but i would guess maybe .75lbs. and lifetime warranty!
as i started this post, i mentioned i OWN ridgid cordless tools and tested the outputs of my 12v batteries (so i am not buying them to make a post for you to say i am buying them to make a post).


maybe you misread my post about helping fishinnut use three 14500"s batteries that are same voltage as the single cells in ridgid battery packs and any other brand 12v modern battery pack. those as i stated are 4.2v each fully charged, whether it be the 18600's  or the 14500's. three of either type li-ons are 12.6v. all tho typical 12v applications are supposed to be 13.8v we settle for anything over 12v but below 14v and thus call it 12v.

btw, i own 12V 9ah sla batteries and use them regularly in my ice55 humin bird flasher that is heavy to move about because of the battery type used in it and this is my 3rd season on same battery.
i am not here to start an argument, only to share thoughts of some thing i thought helpful to others and i will continue to post if i think it will help others.

it's all good, so no worries...

peace out

[polski]

I cut the handle off a old dewalt 14volt screw gun and use it for my hummingbird fish finder in my kayak I can go a week without charging it I wasn't worry about the voltage because a alterator puts out 14volts on a running motor

[mricefish]

I have used dewalt 18v battery to run my 12v lights in the perm shack a bunch of times.  Have also ran the vex off an 18v dewalt too.  run time on the lights couple hours on a full charge i would guess.  run time on the vex, long time have never run out i guess.

[3300]

As a side note, I bought a Shorai battery this year, normally used for starting motorcycles or ATVs.  It's lithium ion and incredibly light weight.  It was rated at 18AH, so double the normal flasher battery.  I have had one in my Vex all year and so far it has worked great.  The batteries are expensive and the guy from Shorai wanted to make it clear they are only designed for starting applications.  We'll see how it goes.

i just looked at that battery you mentioned today ( http://www.shoraipower.com/Products/batteries/LFX07L2-BS12.html ) and it looks great!  LFX07L2-BS12 is the cheapest at $90.00 @ amazon and only .75lbs. i have one of the best chargers for it and might grab one to replace my heavy sealed lead acid battery.
did you try yours out yet?
i have not been on ice since before this post started to try out the rigid brand 12v battery, but i am positive it will do some good for me. seeing all the other folks chime in about their experience doing the same is good to see and assures what i what saying.
thanks for all the tips! 

[Kevin23]

A 12V battery with 3 cells would be 3 cells of 4V wired to make 12V. The amps would stay the same, not triple. It would be a 12V 3ah. That is why when one cell goes your battery is shot, it does not get to 12v with 2 cells, only 8V. If they were three 12V cells wired to make 9ah then when one cell went you would still be able to get to 12v, but with only 6ah.

[Trooper Bri]

I understand what you're after, and you can buy 12v sealed lead acid batteries smaller than UB1290. Look at the UB1250. 5ah.

The problem with the individual cells in those battery packs is you're giving up so much more capacity for storage, and paying for a proprietary housing to boot. I'm on the bus with BBK. Keep it simple. A UB1290 is only 6lbs. A UB1250 can be had for 15 bucks and is 3lbs. Half the weight After that what can you hope to gain?

[sckoolman]

i just looked at that battery you mentioned today ( http://www.shoraipower.com/Products/batteries/LFX07L2-BS12.html ) and it looks great!  LFX07L2-BS12 is the cheapest at $90.00 @ amazon and only .75lbs. i have one of the best chargers for it and might grab one to replace my heavy sealed lead acid battery.
did you try yours out yet?
i have not been on ice since before this post started to try out the rigid brand 12v battery, but i am positive it will do some good for me. seeing all the other folks chime in about their experience doing the same is good to see and assures what i what saying.
thanks for all the tips! 

I have been using mine all year and it has worked great.  I always charge back up after a day on the ice, so I don't know how long it could go between charges.  The battery meter on my vex never drops below 100%, almost making me wonder if it is actually working.  Again, I bought the 12v, 18AH version which is more expensive.  It just barely (I mean barely) fits in my ultra pack.  If I were to buy another, I would try the one you mentioned since I think the one I bought might be overkill.  It doesn't seem like it should be that big a deal, but knocking 5# off your vex weight makes a difference if you do a lot of hole hopping.  Just want to pass along that the guy from Shorai told me the battery was designed for high cranking amps, not slow discharge.  Makes me wonder why no one has made a commercial Li Ion version of the lead cell battery we all use.

[frozengator]

12v battery for vex around 20 bucks  12v battery for drill   50ish?

[3300]

finally got a chance to hit the ice with my tiny 12v free forever to use rigid batteries already paid for... (some seem to not read the post).
first started with the humminbird ice55 test, as so many seemed concerned it would be a wash. set up for fishing and started flasher with a partially charged 12v rigid battery (already paid for and free to use forever!). the flasher said it had 60% and i had the light running on it and down on the ice and still got 4 hours on it. my second identical battery i was using for shelter lights when the first battery gave up the ghost. hooked it up and it too said 60% battery remaining. fished another two hours and came home. i did not check remaining charge before leaving the ice. it should have lasted another four hours as well at least.  flasher with with seal lead battery 12 Lbs, flasher with free forever batteries 5 Lbs.
good to know i have reserve flasher power all the time now.

my main concern was to have extra 12v on the ice with no cost factors or weight. it was a complete success! more than i expected!
i'll update again after i find how long the shelter lights run off them.

thanks for all the input and the great tips!

[frozengator]

I think some read your post just wondering why it would be a good idea to use them? I can understand under a pinch but to always use them seems to be kind of a waist of a good tool battery. You only get so many charges out of them and to me I would rather save mine for my drills. Im not busting your chops just asking. I know I just bought two for my drill and they were 100 bucks. Free forever???

[3300]

I think some read your post just wondering why it would be a good idea to use them? I can understand under a pinch but to always use them seems to be kind of a waist of a good tool battery. You only get so many charges out of them and to me I would rather save mine for my drills. Im not busting your chops just asking. I know I just bought two for my drill and they were 100 bucks. Free forever???

i needed an extra 12v with me because my underwater light throws interference to my flasher if they are attached together. also, i have to move the flasher out of the single hole when i have fish on, as they like to wrap around the cable, so i have to pick it up to let he fish line free itself and did not want an extra cable coming out of the flasher to power shelter lights. also, did not want to buy a 6/7Lb lead acid battery when i have these batteries mentioned just sitting here doing nothing unless i get a job that needs me to use them on it. extra weight and extra cost.
ATM i am considering getting the 3/4Lb battery for $90.00 at amazon to keep the weight of my flasher to a minimum wich is nice too after trying out these rigid batteries in it. i bought a one man flip Michigan made and made sure it was the lightest i could get (37Lbs) and am trying to make my gear i put in it as light as possible.
http://www.shoraipower.com/Products/batteries/LFX07L2-BS12.html

Rigid brand power tools have Lifetime Warranty and that includes their batteries. i used to buy my power tool batteries until i discovered Rigid tools at home depot. so yes they are free for life and if i wear any of them out, they replace them. no more black and yellow tools at my house. they can keep those tools and their batteries that have to be charged more frequently than rigid brand.
i didn't want to make this a rigid brand post, but wanted to let others know if you have them you might as well use them on the ice also, not just at work.
if you buy at home depot you get the life time agreement contract/warranty.

http://www.ridgid.com/tools/power-tool-warranty

[Kevin23]

Did you know using the battery on any tool or any application other than in a rigid drill voids the warranty?

[Kevin23]

No, but you will have to live with the unmoral act of using them on the ice and burning them up then screwing the company out of free batteries. I guess if your conscience allows it, go for it.

[3300]

go to try the rigid brand batteries on my underwater lights. was fantastic to not have any interference on my flasher!
fishing on the other hand was a tad slow, but there is always tomorrow.

[3300]

Did you know using the battery on any tool or any application other than in a rigid drill voids the warranty?

did you know you are incorrect? did you know they make lots of tools that use batteries not just "drills". did you know i own lots of their tools? did you know they make a light and that their batteries are intended to power it? did you know that they want you use their batteries for light? did you know i own that light and use any way i choose to?

now you do...

[MT204]

Did you know using the battery on any tool or any application other than in a rigid drill voids the warranty?

I service Ridgid tools and never hear that one before? I guess I never even thought to ask a customer if they used their battery in anything other than a Ridgid tool or otherwise.

[frozengator]

Well with that info I may stop buying black and yellow tools and start buying ridged too.  I haven't had and problems yet knock on wood, with my dewalts and I have quite a few. But I have heard a few people that have. I have fried the batterys, but that was my fault for leaving on the charger for a week

[fishinnut]

fishinnut
you might want to look into the 14500's they will fit same as double A. you would only need 3 of them and a good portable charger. you can charge from 12v dc automotive or 120v ac. if you want to know what is good, let me know. you won't be throwing your money out so fast on disposable batteries. these charge for 400 charges. so whats 400 AA batteries cost?
just be sure to buy the protected type.

I have a charger for AA Nicads.

[3300]

fishinnut
thats cool!
i have a ton of them too. that charger won't work on lithiums tho 

after they wear out or you get tiered of them being dead from sitting (they have a high self discharge rate) or because of the memory they acquire and you are ready to replace or try new options.

if you like the voltage of nicads 1.2v shelf voltage, and you want to keep your charger, you might want to try the new "Hy-bred" batteries. they have low self discharge, no memory, come pre-charged and hold 80% of their charge for over one year, so always ready to go when you are. i know they out last nicads.
the ones i buy are eneloop made by sanyo. 1.2v shelf voltage and charge to 1.4 volts in my charger. i use those were lithiums can not be used and love em. the best charger for them and ni-cads is the MAHA POWEREX. mh-c9000 WizardOne, (debatable) at least one of the top two imo. depends on who or what reviews you read and your preference and needs.
there are sleeves you clip over "A" and "AA" batteries to turn them into different sized batteries, such as two "AA" goes into the "D" adapter sleeve. one "A" goes into the "C" adapter sleeve. makes them extremely versatile!

battery link: http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-Eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B000IV2WAW
charger link: http://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C9000-PowerEx-WizardOne-Charger-Analyzer/dp/B000NLUSLM

there is also a new hy-bred with 1.6volt shelf voltage that needs a different charger and so i can't say any thing about them yet.
info: http://www.greenbatteries.com/nickel-zinc-aa-rechargeable-batteries-and-charger.html

i like the lithiums much better now, when i can use them. they are 3.7v shelf voltage and 4.2v charged so you can use less of them and becomes lighter to carry.

[fishinnut]

Only use them on fly-in trips where weight is a factor. I use the 12 volt 7 amp sealed for other uses.