K-Drill with Milwaukee mud mixer

[esox_xtm]

To my knowledge Milwaukee does not offer a torque spec for this tool. What is your concern, too much or not enough? Per Grainger tech specs: "Max Torque-Supplier does not capture these measures for this specific product".

Over the last year into this one, paired with the K-D, I've drilled as much as 22" without binding or stalling. Operation is smooth and has plenty of power to punch thru the last bit at the bottom of the hole, often leaving a pair of "half hole" sized chips. I run it @ max RPM on the variable dial which is a very positive setting.

Is there enough to twist up a drill shaft should it suddenly bind? Don't know so I'd have to say "maybe".

[52isntbigenough]

My worry would be shredding the flights and the aluminum shaft on the KD with a drill motor with too much torque.

[esox_xtm]

It's interesting, the question isn't as much about the Mud Mixer as it is about the durability of the auger he wants to drive with it.

I've had some concerns about the plastic flights too. My belief is they stand a better chance of getting damaged in transport or storage than in any of the holes I've drilled to date. I did re-order the flights so chips clear a little better. In 12 - 13" last week I didn't have to lift and clear once. Over that depth I'll probably have to L&C only once and maybe twice in 20"+.

As far as the auger shaft, I've never given it a thought until now. It's not solid but it is quite a thick walled tube. As I think about it I'm not sure a tube twists any easier/harder than a solid shaft. Perhaps there's a real engineer here that can chip in on that.

Tell ya what 52, gimme another coupla seasons and we'll see if I can wreck something  If I do I'll let ya know... 

[Damn Yankee]

It's interesting, the question isn't as much about the Mud Mixer as it is about the durability of the auger he wants to drive with it.

Years ago, Strikemaster had a 8" synthetic auger (Strikelite). Its came on their first 4-stroke Strikemaster. 1 year in they discontinued the synthetic auger.
I called and was told many ice-fishermen drilled a hole almost through and left the auger in for a nice vertical storage. We all know those holes always leak water and many of the augers froze in. The big guys just grabbed the auger and pulled it out, wrecking  flites.
Strikemaster told registered owners to destroy the synthetic auger and they would send a steel auger for the cost of shipping.
If someone out there needs/wants the synthetic auger, blades, or power-point, $50 + shipping cost.

[esox_xtm]

I've done the partial hole for the auger to keep it up off the ice. Never had a water problem unless it was melting or raining and water was running in the hole and then it never froze.

K-D does say to NOT do that and I know why. Even if it doesn't freeze in, one errant stumble/bump and you've got busted (not just bent) flights so I've never done that with my K-D even though it's been part of my routine with steel augers for decades. They also say to clear chips from the hole by lifting from time to time. In thick ice, I'll guess the concern is the weight of the ice chips on the flights, especially if they build to the point where it's hard to move 'em from the hole by flight power alone because of the inherent flex. So yeah, there's some caveats with plastic/synthetic flights but nothing that a bit of common sense can't overcome. Certainly not a deal breaker for me but I can see where it might cause some issues for folks that either don't read/ignore the instructions or just don't think ahead a little bit.

This is one of the many reasons I love IS. So many experiences, viewpoints and opinions from all across the country gives me lots to think about. I'd almost forgotten about the StrikeLite so thanks for the reminder AND the caution for K-D users.

[Deal Ninja]

My worry would be shredding the flights and the aluminum shaft on the KD with a drill motor with too much torque.

While I think you might have a valid concern, mine is that if I would ever drill into driftwood or some other piece of foreign debris in the ice that abruptly stops the auger.  I certainly think I could do damage to the auger, but my concern, first and foremost, would be breaking my wrists and arms.  I have developed, and these tools have earned an enormous amount of respect from me.  They are incredibly powerful.  After a drill accident late last winter, there is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that these tools (Mud Mixer and drills) can break bones and tear ligaments and tendons.

DN

[rekd0514]

I was thinking of using the quick lok on a normal Milwaukee drill and not the mud mixer. Is this part number all I need (49-56-7055) or do I need another adapter to put on the kdrill? Also I believe I have a quick lok adapter for the drill but do you suggestions for one of those as well. This may help others trying to do the same. Thank you in advance!

[MT204]

Depends on what drill you have. There isn't a Quik-Lok for every model.

[rekd0514]

Depends on what drill you have. There isn't a Quik-Lok for every model.

can't you just buy an adapter that fits in the drill instead of replacing the chuck? I would think it would still be strong enough.

[Beck04vall]

Just buy a short quick lock extension and tighten in your chuck real good.  Just leave it in for the season. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-5-1-2-in-x-7-16-in-QUIK-LOK-Universal-Extension-Bit-48-28-1030/100645490

The concern might be that the may chuck loosen up over time and the entire setup will fall out into the hole, at least that was always my concern.

[Damn Yankee]

Just buy a short quick lock extension and tighten in your chuck real good.  Just leave it in for the season. 

Problem here is when you let off the trigger the electronic brake shows up and the INSTANT STOP loosens the chuck and our beloved
synthetic auger takes a dive for the bottom.
Tightening REAL GOOD is not good enough. Get rid of the chuck and thread the driver on with a L.H. screw to hold everything on.

[jethro]

The kdrill requires the separate attachment sold that you can add it to a gas power head.  T

Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate

Having a hell of a time getting this whole setup going. Bought a mud mixer a few weeks ago, then ordered the wrong Quik Loc chuck, got the one that is for a threaded shaft not double d. Now I am having trouble figuring out how to make an adapter.

Should have just stuck with my Fuel drill, this is becoming a nightmare.

[52isntbigenough]

Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate

Having a hell of a time getting this whole setup going. Bought a mud mixer a few weeks ago, then ordered the wrong Quik Loc chuck, got the one that is for a threaded shaft not double d. Now I am having trouble figuring out how to make an adapter.

Should have just stuck with my Fuel drill, this is becoming a nightmare.

Can't you just get by using the OEM chuck?

[jethro]

Can't you just get by using the OEM chuck?

Sure I can but I want the Quik Loc very bad. The Quik Loc is actually one of the primary reasons I bought the mud mixer in the first place. It would be an awesome setup for a lot of reasons.

If the mud mixer used a hand tightening chuck, I may have stuck with that, but you have to check the tightness of the chuck almost every time you drill because it loosens up. With my Fuel drill I just am in the habit of twisting the hand chuck tight every time I go to drill. Also, the K Drill extention is $49.95. I'd rather use a Quik Loc extension to be honest and the 6" K drill really needs an extension. I have an auger rack on my snowmobile but I'd rather not travel with the mud mixer attached. It would be a slick system to use the Quik Loc. I would also probably modify my Eskimo ice anchor tool to work with Quik Loc.

[Beck04vall]

Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see. Just this one for the Clam Plate: https://kdrillauger.americommerce.com/adapter-for-clam-drill-plate

The system is super awesome once you get it together.  We just got ours up and running over Christmas and it was worth the effort.  The most challenging part is getting the K-Drill end to fit into the Quik-Loc, there is no part you can buy off the shelf that I've seen.  What we found was the easiest is to take the piece on the K-Drill that fits into the chuck and modify it to fit the Quik-Loc.  This piece comes off the K-Drill with one screw and can then be easily worked with.  Stock it had 3 flats, you need to mill, file, sand, etc. 3 additional flats on to it such that it has 6 flat sides.  After that a groove needs to be turned into it.  Buy the Quik-Loc extension and use that as a template for what you are trying to create.  I have access to a mill and lathe so this was relatively easy and took less than an hour.  I think it could be done relatively easy with just a belt sanded or even some hand files and vise. 

Additional pictures of what I did can be found in this thread:
https://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/index.php?topic=360717.msg3863691#msg3863691

Good Luck!

[Anderj85]

Doctorgee, you have a PM. 

[esox_xtm]

Are you actually talking about the attachment for the Clam Plate? The K-Drill website doesn't have an attachment for putting the auger on a gas powerhead that I can see.

From the K-D website:

"No adapter required to connect the K-drill to the Strikemaster power head, just slide the float down 3-4 inches exposing the socket-head cap screw that holds the drive adapter in the drive tube, remove SHCS and remove drive adapter and insert Strikemaster output shaft into the K-drill, re-insert the socket head cap screw (SHCS) and go drill holes. On some Strikemasters the through hole in the output shaft is a little close to the gear case resulting in a little modification to the top of the K-drill to fit a bolt through or to redrill a through hole a little higher on the K-drill shaft and using a 5/16 bolt with nyloc nut to hold auger to power head"

[MT204]

Not sure but are the k drill shafts aluminum ?? If so carefull you don't twist the k drill shaft in to a pretzel with the mud mixer I know aluminum is not as hard as steel but it is lighter so be carefull...

Drilled well over 600 holes in the last 2 years in ice up to 30".
No pretzels yet and doubt there will be!
Will someone be able to, you bet no doubt in my mind!!!!!!

[chilly-willy]

Drilled well over 600 holes in the last 2 years in ice up to 30".
No pretzels yet and doubt there will be!
Will someone be able to, you bet no doubt in my mind!!!!!!

Don't dought its going to work ..  but just suggesting caution. With the bigger mud mixers DC motors are know to out torque ac motors and these are DC motors we use in our drills.. we all know what torque does to lug on a wheel you over torque them.. they  break!!   under torque them they fall off "as in don't work" .you got to have that happy medium..   just like guys that build race cars torque kills with wheel hop it Will grenade or explode a trans..  or a rear end very easily.. once the vht on the track get the tires to stick and all that torqure some things going to give and break..

[esox_xtm]

Ahhh, well ain't that just the edge. Want enough power/torque to power through 2 feet of ice BUT if it binds/sticks and tweaks the shaft it's too much. Pick one and live with the rest. Just like fishing wire for pike and living with the possible reduction of bonus bass/walleye/whatever bites as opposed to fishing plastic for those "bonus" species and living with the eventual bite off from pike.

Ain't no perfect answer. Pick one and deal with it... It's all about tradeoffs.

[MT204]

Don't dought its going to work ..  but just suggesting caution. With the bigger mud mixers DC motors are know to out torque ac motors and these are DC motors we use in our drills.. we all know what torque does to lug on a wheel you over torque them.. they  break!!   under torque them they fall off "as in don't work" .you got to have that happy medium..   just like guys that build race cars torque kills with wheel hop it Will grenade or explode a trans..  or a rear end very easily.. once the vht on the track get the tires to stick and all that torqure some things going to give and break..

Couldn't agree with you more on the caution.
The mud mixer doesn't have a dc motor, it's a brushless motor (3 phase ac for lack of better words).
"IF" you over work the mud mixer it will shut down.

[chilly-willy]

Couldn't agree with you more on the caution.
The mud mixer doesn't have a dc motor, it's a brushless motor (3 phase ac for lack of better words).
"IF" you over work the mud mixer it will shut down.

 You plugging your in to a genarator?  If it has a battery it's dc motor.. dc to ac inverters are to big to install in the mud mixer body so it has to be dc.. just a heads up..  just cause its carbon brush brush less don't mean it's ac.. three phase an single phase shaded pole motor etc..  can be brushless same with a few type of dc motors ... if you need more info on motors and controls  feel free to take the same motors and controls classes I took in college.. 10 to 15 yrs ago..

[MT204]

 You plugging your in to a genarator?  If it has a battery it's dc motor.. dc to ac inverters are to big to install in the mud mixer body so it has to be dc.. just a heads up..  just cause its carbon brush brush less don't mean it's ac.. three phase an single phase shaded pole motor etc..  can be brushless same with a few type of dc motors ... if you need more info on motors and controls  feel free to take the same motors and controls classes I took in college.. 10 to 15 yrs ago..

Nope don't plug it into a generator, never said I did.
Your correct should have worded it a bit different.
MM is not a brushed dc motor like most cordless tools "use" to be.
I stated "3 phase ac for lack of better words".
Quote from wiki " Brushless DC electric motor (BLDC motors, BL motors) also known as electronically commutated motors (ECMs, EC motors), or synchronous DC motors, are synchronous motors powered by DC electricity via an inverter or switching power supply which produces an AC electric current to drive each phase of the motor via a closed loop controller. The controller provides pulses of current to the motor windings that control the speed and torque of the motor."
Probably more than what most people want to know.
The "AC" current would really be a switched (plus/minus) Square wave instead of a sine wave(AC)?
In fact most brushless cordless tools have pixies, unicorns and fairy dust inside to make them work, just open one up and look.
Thanks for the offer on the school, already went to 3 years of trade school (electric/electronics) and 35 years in the business.

[chilly-willy]

Like to see them fit a sync drive in a mud mixer casing.. smallest I know of is size of a pack of cig's  must be the gearing that makes it work..