RIDGID OCTANE 1300 IN/LB HAMMER DRILL. OVERLOAD PROTECTION TEST

[DR.SPECKLER]

did it always have that issue or did it start later on?

it did it from day one on the 2nd hole i drilled.it does it a few times a day drilling 30 to 40 holes.not enough to worry about yet.I just let off and hit the trigger again.it has never cut out in a hole.that would aggravate me alot more.

[MT204]

best option is to always exchange a faulty unit. you have 90 days to return or exchange when bought from home depot on anything.
if your past the 90 days, you still have options such as buy another drill knowing it is going back after season and take your faulty unit to a small independent authorized service center and tell them what it's doing. they will have to install a new motor for co from the sounds of it and maybe a trigger switch for fts.

Please be careful recommending that the tool be "EXCHANGED"!
If the tool has been registered or not and it's "exchanged" the warranty is 3 years from the date on the receipt or if that's not available the date code on the tool!
The "exchanged" tool can not be registered for the lifetime warranty (LSA). The receipts are different. This has always been the case unless it has changed in the last few weeks (it may have, things change everyday).
If they want a new tool and warranty, take the tool back and get a store credit, then go buy a new tool.
Then remember to register it within the 90 day period.
If there is an electrical problem the entire motor, circuitry, switch and battery hold is one unit as are most brushless tool today.
Cheers.

[3300]

Please be careful recommending that the tool be "EXCHANGED"!
If the tool has been registered or not and it's "exchanged" the warranty is 3 years from the date on the receipt or if that's not available the date code on the tool!
The "exchanged" tool can not be registered for the lifetime warranty (LSA). The receipts are different. This has always been the case unless it has changed in the last few weeks (it may have, things change everyday).
If they want a new tool and warranty, take the tool back and get a store credit, then go buy a new tool.
Then remember to register it within the 90 day period.
If there is an electrical problem the entire motor, circuitry, switch and battery hold is one unit as are most brushless tool today.
Cheers.

i called in to double check. yes you can get the lsa transferred to your replacement tool and it has to be done on the phone explaining the tool exchange and with in the 90 days of original purchase.
1-800-474-3443
also on replacement parts such as batteries, you'll need to re-register those to keep the lsa on them with in 90 days of replacement(s). it's about having the serials registered before there is any issue, not after.

[MT204]

i called in to double check. yes you can get the lsa transferred to your replacement tool and it has to be done on the phone explaining the tool exchange and with in the 90 days of original purchase.
1-800-474-3443
also on replacement parts such as batteries, you'll need to re-register those to keep the lsa on them with in 90 days of replacement(s). it's about having the serials registered before there is any issue, not after.

Thanks for calling.
I knew that if Ridgid replaced a tool (because a part was not available) the customer could re-register the new/replacement tool.
Must be something new that the customer can call in if it's exchanged threw HD as that has not been the case in the past!
But definitely they have to call.

[MT204]

So I decided to do a bit of testing this afternoon.
Now before anyone gets all upset the tests were on Milwaukee tools, sorry no spare Ridgids to experiment on.
My interest was the inrush current (amps) on the tool with or without a auger attached, in this case an 8" (7.75") auger.
I used 2 older Milwaukee 2604 brushless drilsl and a MudMixer (my auger tool).
Kinda interesting and I repeated the test on 2 different 2604 drills.
For the max in rush it was pull the trigger full blast for all it was worth.
2604 drill   low range (1) no bit/no load running 3.3 amps, max inrush 80 amps.
2604 drill  high range (2) no bit no load running 5.0 amps, max inrush 100 amps
2604 drill low range (1) with 8" Krill  no load running 12.5 amps, max inrush 250 amps, (yep that correct in speed 1)!
MudMixer ran on 5 speed setting.
MudMixer running with out auger 5.5 running amps, inrush 35 amps.
MudMixer running with 8" Kdrill 6.5 running amps, inrush 41 amps.
By starting the drills "slowly" I could limit the inrush to under 10 amps on both tools!
Now I know your all wondering what the "max loaded" amperage was. Well just didn't have enough hands, wire and a load to do that.
I was able to put some load on the MudMixer with the auger but didn't see anything over 10 amps kinda inconclusive.
Whats my take on this data?
Ya I know it's Milwaukee but probably pretty close for most other brands.
I personally feel that the "fail to start" issue is because the Octane has so much power in a small chassis that the inrush/starting current is tripping the overload circuitry of the drill and/or battery (as they talk to each other).
I also feel that the "cut out" CO issue is the tool trying to save it's self.
This sorta makes since as the MudMixer doesn't have the fail to start issue but some are having the stop on break through.
Bottom line TRY starting slowly, don't push so hard on break through?
Just some food for thought.
Your mileage may vary.

[shiveringjoe]

Thank you for the test and explanation. I was curious if the start load was an issue. was your auger vertical or horizontal for the test?

[VTMatt]

I have tried to feather the trigger on startup...didn't make a difference 

I'll test it tomorrow after work without an auger...

[MT204]

Thank you for the test and explanation. I was curious if the start load was an issue. was your auger vertical or horizontal for the test?

With the Milwaukee items it made no difference.

[John_BZ]

Although it didnt start well I was able to get my octane/clam plate/7" lazer to run in succession without failing to start. First hole was fine. Second hole I got a fail to start. After it happened I started to play with it a little more. I noticed it was turning the auger a very minute amount, almost unnoticeable, then stopping and blinking. I found that if I hovered the bit in the air and was extremely light on the trigger I could reliably get the bit to turn very slowly.  From there if I hammered down to full power then made light contact with the ice it drilled everytime. If I just got after it I could make it fault out every few holes. I'm going to continue trying this. It may just take a very light touch to keep the overload circuit happy with the combination I am running.

[winterbuddy]

You Rigid jockeys need to figure this out..    I really want to switch brands so I can use that Rigid bluetooth radio charger.   

[gamefisher]

I used mine yesterday in 2' + of ice.  When it works it works great but many times just stops and you lift it up a little, press switch again, and it goes.  I haven't used drill for intended purpose yet but sure hope it doesn't do this, just kind of annoying.

[lefty2053]

Grandson who does carpentry who works in Telluride Colorado said he has to warm up their batteries before any of them work.

[PIKE FISHERMAN]

So a little dovetail off this topic. Here are 3 reasons why I went with the Nils over the KDrill 

[VTMatt]

What am I missing?  The nils blade style looks exactly like the Lazer blades. 

[lefty2053]

Nils is nothing like the Lazer blades.

[DTro]

I think the video is the classic example of what works best for each angler.   The nils is a great auger, I had one paired with the Tanaka powerhead about 10 years ago.    Has anyone tried drilling overlapping holes with the Nils?  I'm curious how it would work. 

Back then on my Nils, the cutting head was just slightly bigger than the flighting which left a LOT of slush in the holes too.  I didn't like that.

[fishlessman]

just put this setup together and have a question. have not tried it in ice, but running it it bangs hard to a stop when releasing the trigger, even if released slowly. is that normal

[DTro]

just put this setup together and have a question. have not tried it in ice, but running it it bangs hard to a stop when releasing the trigger, even if released slowly. is that normal

It's the brake.  Yes it's normal.  Actually you shouldn't really be running it without a load applied because when the brake stops like that it will tend to loosen the chuck.   However, when I'm done I'm guilty of doing it too, just to spin off the excess water. 

[PIKE FISHERMAN]

just put this setup together and have a question. have not tried it in ice, but running it it bangs hard to a stop when releasing the trigger, even if released slowly. is that normal

Normal. But like DTro said you shouldn’t make a habbit of activating the drill/auger combo without a load on the auger. It’s a lot of weight and momentum to slow down.

[river_scum]

when im done drilling for a while, I drill a half hole and leave the auger in it.  don't seem to have ice up issues.


im guessing there is more shut down issues with the more aggressive auger heads.  my "shaving jiffy" doesn't even faze this drill.  I had 1 shut down, with the old 8"er in the garden clay, when it hit a root.  other than that none.

[fishlessman]

good to know,  just made the adaptor and wanted to see how true it spun the nils, wobbles less than the old powerhead. wasnt expecting the hard brake action

[slipperybob]

It's the brake.  Yes it's normal.  Actually you shouldn't really be running it without a load applied because when the brake stops like that it will tend to loosen the chuck.   However, when I'm done I'm guilty of doing it too, just to spin off the excess water.

I was wondering how people say they lose their auger with the chuck loosening.  Mine hasn't loosen at all and I was wondering why I put in the big disc to prevent loss of auger in the first place.  Since it is sort of in the way while transporting.

[Theshad]

I lost mine do to a cheaply made adapter that crushed as the chuck tightened. Aluminum, bad choice.

[river_scum]

oh no! you lost the auger? bummer.  mine is made from 3/4 bar stock with plexi plate for a saver.

[gamefisher]

I lost mine do to a cheaply made adapter that crushed as the chuck tightened. Aluminum, bad choice.
[/quot

Any of you using the kovac ice master adapter I'm here to tell you the bungie provided will last between 50-100 holes before breaking.  Picked up a much beefier bungie at hardware store today for $2.  Although my fin bore has not loosened at all from chuck, good insurance policy for money.

[chilly-willy]

Nils is nothing like the Lazer blades.

The 6 inch laser is pretty much a nills you throw a off set handle on a 6 inch laser they cut the same..  but a 7 and 8 inch laser is a way different ball game.. cause of those vee'd bars on the cutting head.. the laser take more effort cause of those bars..

[Theshad]

Used a magnet on a rope and got it back. Then bought a steel adapter with the bungee, problem solved.

[tater140]

My kovac bungee saved my auger the other day. The chuck loosened and the whole thing hung by the bungee in the hole. 

[3300]

saved mine more times than i can think of over the years. it's easy to install it in the chuck on the high points of the adapter, so just the other day it saved mine 3 times in a row. every time i thought it was on the flats, but it wasn't. i ground down those high points on my first one so it had more of the flats for the chuck to grab so i am used to that.

i bought a new one for this season because the holes drilled in it are getting egg shaped and i bought a new 8 inch auger and wanted every thing new so there are no weak links. the high points where it is not a flat for the chuck to grab are rather large/wide. with the added torque of this drill i will not be grinding it at all and just have to get used to it.
it could use a sleeve welded to the inside to stop this wearing of the holes. first one is about 7 years old and still works.

[DTro]

OK guys I NEED to share my experience with you that I had last night.   Get out to our spot.  We had 24" of measured ice and I have the 1300 and I brought my extra 9ah battery (so a total of 2 9ah batteries).  I have the 8" kdrill and drill 4 sets of 3 holes overlapped.   What I usually do is drill all three just about until they break through then finish them off.  I've noticed it takes a lot more torque to drill through the slurry slush if I drill each one through entirely. 

First off let me say that I did try messing with the trigger a bit when I first started and YES if I barely pulled the trigger it would cut out every time, even before i started one hole  I had to give it the nuts and it worked fine that way.

Ok so i get 3 sets of 3 drilled so basically 9 holes through 24".  And then 1/3 of the 4th set and the drill cut out mid hole (hole number 10).  So at that point I figure ok, I'll throw my spare battery on.  I connect it and same thing, it keeps cutting out and I can feel the heat.  Without a doubt it was heat/drill related as the new battery made no difference.  So I stumbled my way through the last hole (waiting a few minutes inbetween engagements). And decide to keep that set at only a double hole instead of a triple hole since I don't want to kill my drill.     After that I put the drill outside to cool off.   

Fast forward about 3 hours later and I get a MONSTER fish on.  I'm talking like fish of a lifetime Monster and of course its on the double hole not the triple hole.  We get it up and the fish has NO chance to come up the double hole.  So I go out and grab the drill to overlap another hole, and it won't drill.  It keeps cutting out.  Is to TOO COLD NOW?   I have no idea what was going on but one battery was at 3 bars and the other at 2 and neither was working well.  I was able to barely get one more hole in.  Then we find out that the fish won't come up 3 holes!   Well, now i'm stuck....   I put out an emergency call to nearby fisherman to come help me cut another hole and luckily someone came over with an ION and helped out.   

We did end up getting the fish through the hole (we actually need 5 8" holes), but man oh man, the Rigid flaked out on me and left me hanging.   With 2 9ah batteries I should have never had to worry at all.   I'm pretty sure I'm going to just go and return everything I bought.  I don't want to be in that position even again.