Author Topic: RIDGID OCTANE 1300 IN/LB HAMMER DRILL. OVERLOAD PROTECTION TEST  (Read 76009 times)

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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your mileage may vary, and I would expect much more holes with a shaver blade, but I prefer to use the KDrill so this is how I tested it and how each drill handled it.

I might pick up a 9ah battery for the DeWalt just so I can get a good fair baseline comparison.

My thoughts on this.  The Ridgid Octane is going to be plenty of drill for the vast majority of people and the cutout issue will be a non-factor.  However, I don't think  it can be ignored either.


Have to say I'm surprised to see the difference between the Nils and KDrill. I got 150 holes with my Nils. Shocked you only got 40 with your KDrill. I knew the Kdrill chipper blade would be less, but am shocked at the difference.
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Offline NateD

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Have to say I'm surprised to see the difference between the Nils and KDrill. I got 150 holes with my Nils. Shocked you only got 40 with your KDrill. I knew the Kdrill chipper blade would be less, but am shocked at the difference.

I don't think you would get 150 holes on the same day.  In his last test I think the shaver blade cut close to 50% more holes against the kdrill.

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Yeah i purchased one for my friend and he just texted me it's cutting out like it's the overload protection, he's b***hing ( i new it was to good to be true) you know what they say no good deed goes unpunished like its all my fault

Offline 3300

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swap it out or exchange or get a refund. no need for him to complain to you. only one person has bothered to swap it out and he is good to go now.

sounds like it's the poor way the kdrill cuts is affecting the overload protection. the load is not consistent and the way the motor talks to the battery trying to figure out the load while people are raising their bits to try to clear out the shavings is messing with it. those who keep a constant or somewhat constant load aren't having so much trouble.

tell him to keep the bit under the same load the entire cut and see what happens instead of stopping the cut to raise the cutting head to spin off the shavings. pretty sure this is the problem.

QUOT:
This means, under heavy loads, the tool talks to the battery to determine when to draw maximum power to the motor, allowing the tool to increase performance and finish the task.
END QUOT
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Cordless-Brushless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-R8611506B/304304102

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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I don't think you would get 150 holes on the same day.  In his last test I think the shaver blade cut close to 50% more holes against the kdrill.
I probably wouldn't. Did 50 holes the first day I had it on the ice (8".) 20 of them back to back just to test it out. Had just dropped to 3/4 on my last few holes.
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Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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Yeah i purchased one for my friend and he just texted me it's cutting out like it's the overload protection, he's b***hing ( i new it was to good to be true) you know what they say no good deed goes unpunished like its all my fault
HD will return it no questions asked. Mines been 100% flawless. Ive had a few people message me saying their drill "was cutting out" and 9/10 of them didn't have it on the correct settings. Not saying your buddies wasnt, but has to be on setting 1, drill mode. It will cut out every time on setting 2.
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Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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swap it out or exchange or get a refund. no need for him to complain to you. only one person has bothered to swap it out and he is good to go now.

sounds like it's the poor way the kdrill cuts is affecting the overload protection. the load is not consistent and the way the motor talks to the battery trying to figure out the load while people are raising their bits to try to clear out the shavings is messing with it. those who keep a constant or somewhat constant load aren't having so much trouble.


tell him to keep the bit under the same load the entire cut and see what happens instead of stooping the cut to raise the cutting head to spin off the shavings. pretty sure this is the problem.

QUOT:
This means, under heavy loads, the tool talks to the battery to determine when to draw maximum power to the motor, allowing the tool to increase performance and finish the task.
END QUOT
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Cordless-Brushless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-R8611506B/304304102

Well said 3300. I was thinking of a tactful was of addressing this. Ive had several people (25 or so) message me about the Octane. Both through here, FB and YouTube. 75% have been with the K-Drill, 25% strikemaster/eskimo shaver blade style augers. Once my Nils starts cutting it melts through the ice. Seems like the KDrill folks aren't as smooth. I wish I had someone close by who had the KDrill, id love to see how it ran on my Octane. Ive heard nothing about good things with the Octane/Nils crowd. Not to offend anyone, but think the Octane excels with the Nils.
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Offline NateD

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swap it out or exchange or get a refund. no need for him to complain to you. only one person has bothered to swap it out and he is good to go now.

sounds like it's the poor way the kdrill cuts is affecting the overload protection. the load is not consistent and the way the motor talks to the battery trying to figure out the load while people are raising their bits to try to clear out the shavings is messing with it. those who keep a constant or somewhat constant load aren't having so much trouble.

tell him to keep the bit under the same load the entire cut and see what happens instead of stooping the cut to raise the cutting head to spin off the shavings. pretty sure this is the problem.

QUOT:
This means, under heavy loads, the tool talks to the battery to determine when to draw maximum power to the motor, allowing the tool to increase performance and finish the task.
END QUOT
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-OCTANE-Cordless-Brushless-1-2-in-Hammer-Drill-Driver-Tool-Only-R8611506B/304304102

Except that at least 2 I see complaining about the issue are using lazer.  No problems in 3 years with my kdrill and milwaukee. Always smooth and haven't changed or sharpened the blades yet.

Offline 4Buck

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I would like to know how many that are having the cutting out problem are using the Clam Plate?

Offline NateD

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Well said 3300. I was thinking of a tactful was of addressing this. Ive had several people (25 or so) message me about the Octane. Both through here, FB and YouTube. 75% have been with the K-Drill, 25% strikemaster/eskimo shaver blade style augers. Once my Nils starts cutting it melts through the ice. Seems like the KDrill folks aren't as smooth. I wish I had someone close by who had the KDrill, id love to see how it ran on my Octane. Ive heard nothing about good things with the Octane/Nils crowd. Not to offend anyone, but think the Octane excels with the Nils.

What makes you say that?

What are people messaging you about? The drill cutting out? Or they are telling you the octane isn't smooth with the kdrill?

Offline 3300

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nate the milwaukee obviously does not have this intelligent circuit the ridgid has so it seems to ignore the load differences.  as far as i know this is ridgids first go with it.
there are other tools that have this circuit it in now including milwaukee newest right angle drill or seems to have it because it stops if the load is too much instead of breaking wrists and not using a clutch system like drill modes do not use.
the folks having poor results with their lazers would more than likely have even worse resits with the kdrill.
yes there are a few other large bit issues and swapping the drill out for another one is the resolve for them. i have no idea why they are not staying consistent between drills. it seems to be tolerances in their circuits are different for some reason.
the dewalt also isn't using this newest protection/load draw circuit nor are any of my older ridgid tools including 4 other ridgid drills.
if it is a problem, ridgid will have to change the circuit to remedy the situation or adjust it if it's adjustable. it acts like it is adjustable with the different results folks are getting, but who knows for sure other than ridgid.


Offline DR.SPECKLER

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Do you have yours on the Clam Plate? Mine was doing the same thing and I kept moving the adjusting the trigger on the plate and now it doesn't seem to do it anymore.
yes mine is on a clam plate and the trigger mech is hitting it dead on.my light comes on so I know the trigger is pushed in.mines not overloading I wouldnt  think because sometimes it does it before I even cut a single hole..it really not that bad and its a second out of the day but don't know if it will get worse.starting out with a octane that had a tight chuck with no left/right play and now I can turn it by hand over a inch either way is more concerning.i have 90 days to run it and lsa so time will tell.im running a mora 8".the drill rips lots  of holes easy most times and I have done 10 in a row then put it down for a few hrs then it may work or shutoff sporadic.never know when its going to happen.

Offline John_BZ

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If it is true that it cant handle variable load then it sounds like poor engineering on behalf of Ridgid. In a perfect world there may be a constant load on a tool but here in the real world that is not the case. Drilling through layers of different materials, hitting a knot in wood, or drilling through laminations just to name a few. Sounds to me like they may be afraid of burning up a motor that can't output the rated torque for anything more than a short burst. It is a good thing for the consumer that the warranty is there. Probably a bad idea to tell them it is being used for an ice auger. If we ever get ice again I want to do some more testing with mine. If the second drill has issues then it may be time to pull the plug while I still can.

Offline 3300

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but were are talking about a video that stress's these systems to see what happens and we are talking about the results of it. you don't cut as many holes as it can for kicks in a real world to see what happens. you cut what you need to cut.

when i said variable i said full on and full off. not some where in between.


Offline Finnt

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A friend of mine bought a rigid drill from home depot and used it with a 7 in lazer and it was cutting out after 3 holes ,and after 15 holes later thru out the day noticed the drill had a lot backlash in the gearing.  Went out the next day and drilled 4 holes and something snapped in the drill and locked up. He took it back to store and returned it and got the dewalt 996 with 2 5amphr. Batts and charger. He used that all day with the same augers no problems, plus the side handle is better design than the rigid and the Milwaukee, No snapping handles off with the dewalt. I run my dewalt 996 with the same auger as him and have not had any problems at all. Sounds like the rigid has has some issues with torque and battery overload  protection

Offline John_BZ

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but were are talking about a video that stress's these systems to see what happens and we are talking about the results of it. you don't cut as many holes as it can for kicks in a real world to see what happens. you cut what you need to cut.

when i said variable i said full on and full off. not some where in between.

What I'm getting at here is a drill that cannot handle dynamic load is poorly engineered. The majority of these drills being sold will never see an ice auger. In the real world someone will use the drill where the load will go from full to nothing back to full. Like drilling through steel tubing. I also just came across a couple test videos on youtube putting the ridgid against a milwaukee. The ridgid was cutting out on overload turning a spade bit. The milwaukee did too until they switched to the 6ah high output battery. Then the Milwaukee had no cutout issues. That said If the octane can only reliably operate with a nils auger then that counts me and many others out.

Offline NateD

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nate the milwaukee obviously does not have this intelligent circuit the ridgid has so it seems to ignore the load differences.  as far as i know this is ridgids first go with it.
there are other tools that have this circuit it in now including milwaukee newest right angle drill or seems to have it because it stops if the load is too much instead of breaking wrists and not using a clutch system like drill modes do not use.
the folks having poor results with their lazers would more than likely have even worse resits with the kdrill.
yes there are a few other large bit issues and swapping the drill out for another one is the resolve for them. i have no idea why they are not staying consistent between drills. it seems to be tolerances in their circuits are different for some reason.
the dewalt also isn't using this newest protection/load draw circuit nor are any of my older ridgid tools including 4 other ridgid drills.
if it is a problem, ridgid will have to change the circuit to remedy the situation or adjust it if it's adjustable. it acts like it is adjustable with the different results folks are getting, but who knows for sure other than ridgid.

You said kdrill was the problem when clearly it isn't.

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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What makes you say that?

What are people messaging you about? The drill cutting out? Or they are telling you the octane isn't smooth with the kdrill?
I was referring to people messaging me about the octane cutting out with KDrill, Lazer and Eskimo type Auger.

A good majority of them folks didn’t have the drill set up correctly either. Example trying to run on setting 2.

My set up hasn’t cut out once, and  I’ve had more KDrill/ Lazer users say they love the Octane vs not.

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Offline 3300

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You said kdrill was the problem when clearly it isn't.
it certainly seems to be with the ridgid. isn't that the discussion as of late?

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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it certainly seems to be with the ridgid. isn't that the discussion as of late?
I'm going to see if I can track down a KDrill and see how it works with my Ridgid.

Did the other guy get 25 holes back to back before the overload kicked in??? I watched the video but cant remember if it cut out before.


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Offline 3300

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yep 25 no problem other than some video glitch where he lost his data on his device and did a redo the next day and didn't show a full charge on the batteries before hand.

i'd like to add that last i knew, lithium does not take a full and complete charge on the first few charges. they need a few more charges to balance out the cells.
i used to make battery packs for racing and i would match the cells to have the same charge/discharge rate as close as i could to get best results. i am pretty sure no tool company is doing this, but so you know you should get better results after your first few cycles on the battery. because the cells are in one line to create the desired voltage the first cell gets fully charged while the last gets the least. to keep the first from being over charged it has to stop charging so the charger says it's done. leaving it on the charger may float charge them and give a much more thorough charge from start to end. but we want them charged now, so they fast charge them. it doesn't matter who's cell's are being used. we have no idea how many times the new 9 amp batteries with cut-out issues have been cycled, so there is that to consider.

What I'm getting at here is a drill that cannot handle dynamic load is poorly engineered. The majority of these drills being sold will never see an ice auger. In the real world someone will use the drill where the load will go from full to nothing back to full. Like drilling through steel tubing. I also just came across a couple test videos on youtube putting the ridgid against a milwaukee. The ridgid was cutting out on overload turning a spade bit. The milwaukee did too until they switched to the 6ah high output battery. Then the Milwaukee had no cutout issues. That said If the octane can only reliably operate with a nils auger then that counts me and many others out.
for now it is speculation or theory from what information is being presented on this forum. we will know in due time what the situation really is.
i called where i take my tools and they have no octane tools in shop for repairs and haven't heard of octane having issues. because it is early for the tool to go thru all of the paces we put them thru, speculation or returning them is all we have.

Offline 3300

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A friend of mine bought a rigid drill from home depot and used it with a 7 in lazer and it was cutting out after 3 holes ,and after 15 holes later thru out the day noticed the drill had a lot backlash in the gearing.  Went out the next day and drilled 4 holes and something snapped in the drill and locked up. He took it back to store and returned it and got the dewalt 996 with 2 5amphr. Batts and charger. He used that all day with the same augers no problems, plus the side handle is better design than the rigid and the Milwaukee, No snapping handles off with the dewalt. I run my dewalt 996 with the same auger as him and have not had any problems at all. Sounds like the rigid has has some issues with torque and battery overload  protection

the 996 is 841 inch pounds. better than ridgid's pre-octane specs of 780 for their brushed gen5x (what i have and works as it should) and 750 for their gen5x brushless. the new milwaukee has the improved handle trying to get away from the cracked gear cases the version before it produced.

Offline NateD

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sounds like it's the poor way the kdrill cuts is affecting the overload protection.

It is happening with kdrill and the shavers (mora,lazer), so I'm not sure how you got this "conclusion."

a drill that cannot handle dynamic load is poorly engineered.

Offline NateD

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I was referring to people messaging me about the octane cutting out with KDrill, Lazer and Eskimo type Auger.

A good majority of them folks didn’t have the drill set up correctly either. Example trying to run on setting 2.

My set up hasn’t cut out once, and  I’ve had more KDrill/ Lazer users say they love the Octane vs not.

So 75 percent of people who have messaged you about the octane cutting out were using a kdrill?  Hope your Nils keeps working out for ya, I loved mine for half a season, until it didn't want to cut anymore and I had to spend money and time sending it out to get sharpened (which I didn't, just went back to the trusty mora I had used my whole life previously, Nils is still just sittin in the shed). When they are sharp it is the smoothest cutting bit I've tried for sure.

Offline Finnt

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3300 the drill my buddy bought was the rigid 1300 in lbs with the 9 amp he batts . I had a Milwaukee m18 fuel  that was recommended for the k-drill that I also bought at the same time.  the handle broke off and the case separated. Got rid of both and got  the 996 and lazer for a lot less.  The k-drill is lighter than the lazer but it generates a lot of torque . Lazer augers has about half of the torque that is needed for a kdrill.

Offline DTro

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I'm gonna tell you right now I have no horse in this race.  Strictly doing it for a subject on my YouTube channel and to help out fellow ice fisherman.  I can assure you with 100% certainty that the battery was fully charged and I was in the correct mode.   The first day segment didn't record for some reason.  I do have the audio I can play for you though.  LOL    The same exact thing happened on both days.  24 or 25th hole and it cut out.

What I can tell you is that I noticed the cutting out was happening with some sort of variation.  First I would question why it didn't cut out during the first 25 holes?   Next I would question when it did cut out, why more frequently after it happened the first time.  It's obvious its related to a weaker battery and or heat issue.   

Again, no horse in this race and no inherent bias.   I'll be doing more tests this week. 


Offline 4Buck

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yes mine is on a clam plate and the trigger mech is hitting it dead on.my light comes on so I know the trigger is pushed in.mines not overloading I wouldnt  think because sometimes it does it before I even cut a single hole..it really not that bad and its a second out of the day but don't know if it will get worse.starting out with a octane that had a tight chuck with no left/right play and now I can turn it by hand over a inch either way is more concerning.i have 90 days to run it and lsa so time will tell.im running a mora 8".the drill rips lots  of holes easy most times and I have done 10 in a row then put it down for a few hrs then it may work or shutoff sporadic.never know when its going to happen.

Yep mine was doing the same thing with the light coming on and no drill, let off and it would work fine the next time. I messed around with the trigger on the clam plate several times now it seems to work great. What I was getting at is I am not sure if there is a problem with this issue if not using a clam plate??

Offline 4Buck

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Sounds like Home Depot is out of stock on the drills now anyway.

Offline PIKE FISHERMAN

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So 75 percent of people who have messaged you about the octane cutting out were using a kdrill?  Hope your Nils keeps working out for ya, I loved mine for half a season, until it didn't want to cut anymore and I had to spend money and time sending it out to get sharpened (which I didn't, just went back to the trusty mora I had used my whole life previously, Nils is still just sittin in the shed). When they are sharp it is the smoothest cutting bit I've tried for sure.
Yes, but keep in mind a good majority of that 75% had their drill on the wrong settings. In my conversation travels, i've only talked with, or saw 2 people who returned the Octane due to it cutting out.

As seen is the other guys video, he got 24 holes through 14" of ice with the KDrill before it shut down, which I think is amazing for a KDrill as they aren't as smooth as my Nils. I personally like the override.
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Offline ranger10

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I am using the Octane with a clam plate and 8" kdrill, I was able to get 52 holes in 8" to 10" of ice. It did not cut out until I had two lights on the battery. really started to notice it more as the battery got lower. I am running the drill in drill mode and the lower speed setting.

 



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