RIDGID OCTANE 1300 IN/LB HAMMER DRILL. OVERLOAD PROTECTION TEST

[Icemole]

 Kind of weird the clutch doesn't work in "drill" mode.... I've had bits grab in wood and steel that gave my wrist a good twist..... But I'll be ordering anyway ... the old Milwaulkee is about shot(battery wise any way)

[CO_Dinky]

Kind of weird the clutch doesn't work in "drill" mode.... I've had bits grab in wood and steel that gave my wrist a good twist..... But I'll be ordering anyway ... the old Milwaulkee is about shot(battery wise any way)

I've never run across a drill where the clutch was functional in drilling mode.  That's kind of the point, drill mode locks the clutch out.  Having said that, I would think that this drill would work just fine in screw mode with the clutch turned up towards the top end, as it has more than enough torque.

I'm hoping to finally try mine on the ice tomorrow!

[3300]

would be nice for someone to try screw mode on highest setting and see what happens. it won't hurt anything to try. would be nice to see them add ice mode to drills some day.

Count me in as another new owner.

Just bought today in a store in Menomonee Falls, Wi.  HD Online said there were 3 in stock in case anyone near there is looking to buy.  I had to order the battery and have it ship to my house.

I did a lot of reading on this, but not 100% sure if you guys are using the stock chuck or adding an extension. Suppose it depends on the auger, but I will be using my lazer 6” to start.

i use the kovac icemaster 2 adapter to use the auger and drill. i always use the auxiliary handle and use shopping bags over the drill.
just lift some before break thru with the lazer as it cuts so fast and takes big bites as it cuts. lifting causes more of a shaving affect.

[CO_Dinky]

would be nice for someone to try screw mode on highest setting and see what happens.

I'll try it when I go out tonight or tomorrow.

[3300]

ok cool, thanks! what is your auger brand and size? the least that would happen is nothing.

[CO_Dinky]

ok cool, thanks! what is your auger brand and size? the least that would happen is nothing.

7" Lazer.  Should have at least 5" of solid, clear ice.  I didn't make it out there today, but it's been well below freezing since I was out last (13 degrees was the high the past 24 hours), so I expect 6"+ to drill through.

[3300]

some thing someone could get rich at is making an auger adapter with different clutch setting for different augers sizes and types built-in. or make one with fixed slippage for different sized augers like boat motor props have built-in. taking the auger adapters to a new level.

[CO_Dinky]

some thing someone could get rich at is making an auger adapter with different clutch setting for different augers sizes and types built-in. or make one with fixed slippage for different sized augers like boat motor props have built-in. taking the auger adapters to a new level.

Yeah, but that would be $$$.  Can't imagine something like that being any less than $50.

I actually built my own adjustable height auger adapter out of about 30" of  3/8" gas pipe, a 2" x 1/2" diameter bolt, a frisbee, and a couple cotter pins for less than $10.  I think it will work great, can't wait to try it out for real (it looks great spinning at home)!  I'll detail the build somewhere here if there aren't any unforeseen surprises.

[3300]

i like it! the most strain is on the smallest diameter of the link. so the bolt would be just that or the pins. on the kovac system, i had to grind their flats deeper so the three outside edges were sharper. they left too much of it rounded edges and makes for the chuck to slip around it easier. i think it costs 28$
you can see how rounded their outer edges are here.

[John_BZ]

Bastages just cost me 170. Got the drill and battery/charger combo on its way. Drill is back in stock online.

[CO_Dinky]

i like it! the most strain is on the smallest diameter of the link. so the bolt would be just that or the pins. on the kovac system, i had to grind their flats deeper so the three outside edges were sharper. they left too much of it rounded edges and makes for the chuck to slip around it easier. i think it costs 28$
you can see how rounded their outer edges are here.

I didn't want to use an adapter that was designed for a 3/8" chuck in this drill, after seeing how many get snapped right off.  The HT Enterprises adapter looked good, but that's a fatal flaw (plus it's unnecessarily heavy being made from solid steel).

I ground 3 flats on the 1/2" bolt using my belt sander and a ceramic belt designed for metal removal (used in knife making/sharpening).  Nice and beefy, and the outside diameter on the other end of the bolt only need to be shaved a tiny bit to fit snugly into the inside diameter of the 3/8" iron pipe.  Cut the bolt head off and then welded the threaded portion of the bolt into the pipe...   

I'd have to do the math, but I think the shoulder bolt that Strikemaster provides which holds the adapter (or original handle)  to the auger bit is probably the weak link.  On my setup, it would likely shear off at the threaded end before my triangular 1/2 bolt would twist off.  In hindsight, I should have used a grade 8, 1/2" bolt on my adapter to ensure that was the case, but I think it will be fine.  Worst case, I have to cut the end off and weld a new one on, but that wouldn't be too big of a deal for me if it becomes necessary.

[3300]

sounds like you have a grip on it. looking forward to your trial runs and the clutch on the octane with it.

john, you'll be glad you did!

[Icemole]

I've never run across a drill where the clutch was functional in drilling mode.  That's kind of the point, drill mode locks the clutch out.  Having said that, I would think that this drill would work just fine in screw mode with the clutch turned up towards the top end, as it has more than enough torque.

I'm hoping to finally try mine on the ice tomorrow!

 Pretty sure on my "antique" 18V pre lithium Milwalkee hammer drill the clutch works in both drill + hammer modes. I'd double check but the battery is dead..... will check after I charge up.

[Big Sky]

Just found this in my collection of ice fishing stuff equivalent to a junk drawer.  Wonder how long I had it? 😳 Looks like the Kovac design.

[Big Sky]

Clearer pic...

[CO_Dinky]

Pretty sure on my "antique" 18V pre lithium Milwalkee hammer drill the clutch works in both drill + hammer modes. I'd double check but the battery is dead..... will check after I charge up.

I've owned an old Craftsman, Ryobi, and Milwaukee over the past ~25 years, and none of the clutches on those worked in drill mode.  The 2602-20 M18 Fuel I have doesn't either.

[CO_Dinky]

Just found this in my collection of ice fishing stuff equivalent to a junk drawer.  Wonder how long I had it? 😳 Looks like the Kovac design.

Wow, maybe a Kovac before it was called a Kovac? Purchased at an outdoors show perhaps?

[DR.SPECKLER]

Ive been using that one too.figured its the 1st gen kovac icemaster adapter and the other is  called kovac 2 icemaster adapter?

[Big Sky]

My bad.  Didn’t look at the back,  it does say Kovac Eneterprises.  I know I’ve had for awhile though. 

[shiveringjoe]

That adapter is what I used with an older ridgid and a 6” lazer (with the clam extension tube). Even with the side handle you still need to be careful at the bottom of the hole. The lazer can bite and twist your hands up. I got a clam plate 4 years ago and love that setup. Slightly heavier but no risk of getting twisted up, and it’s a lot easier to put your rig down on the ice and not have your drill in slush. Did my first trip with this drill and an 8” lazer yesterday and it was awesome.

Just found this in my collection of ice fishing stuff equivalent to a junk drawer.  Wonder how long I had it? 😳 Looks like the Kovac design.

[3300]

That adapter is what I used with an older ridgid and a 6” lazer (with the clam extension tube). Even with the side handle you still need to be careful at the bottom of the hole. The lazer can bite and twist your hands up. I got a clam plate 4 years ago and love that setup. Slightly heavier but no risk of getting twisted up, and it’s a lot easier to put your rig down on the ice and not have your drill in slush. Did my first trip with this drill and an 8” lazer yesterday and it was awesome.

does your lazer 8 grab at the bottom and make you lift up to avoid the grab? that is what i stepped up to from a 6 lazer, but have not had ice to try it on. my 6 never gave me problems.
do you feel you really need the plate with that auger?

[shiveringjoe]

I didn’t feel anything with new 8” but that was fresh blades and only 5-6” of ice. My clam plate also wasn’t adjusted properly so I could only do full throttle... which was awesome. Less than 2 seconds per hole and I was covered in water and slush up to my thighs. I had my 6” lazer with the kovac bite a couple times in thicker ice and one time it ripped the side handle off and torqued my hand pretty good. Tendons were sore for a couple weeks. Twice as much drilling area and twice as much torque could be risky. 

does your lazer 8 grab at the bottom and make you lift up to avoid the grab? that is what i stepped up to from a 6 lazer, but have not had ice to try it on. my 6 never gave me problems.
do you feel you really need the plate with that auger?

[3300]

thanks joe. good to hear you also went from 6 to 8 lazer and it cuts well.
i did that one time going around and reopening lightly refrozen holes quickly and got my wrist wrenched. so now i always use both.

i just keep the drill very close to my body so if the auger grabs my body can assist my arms/hands from going around too far. it gives your arms more leverage. right hand/arm rides my right side and same for the left side. so keeping your elbows out would not help at all, keeping them tucked in does.
 you just have to make sure no clothing gets too close.
mine is about waist high when i start my cut.

[Icemole]

I've owned an old Craftsman, Ryobi, and Milwaukee over the past ~25 years, and none of the clutches on those worked in drill mode.  The 2602-20 M18 Fuel I have doesn't either.

 Well I checked my old Milwaukee (# 0624-20) and the clutch does indeed function in both drill/hammer modes. 

[NateD]

3300, I got in on that deal a while ago.  Already had the Milwaukee 2704 but for $169 for 9amp hr battery, charger, and Ridgid Octane it was too good to pass up.  Been doing all my on ice Nils testing this winter with the Ridgid chucked up to a Kovac adapter.  I don't use the handle and feel if you the drill properly you don't want it.  Hold with your right hand with finger on trigger while handle braced against you forearm. Left palm against the motor.  The torque is easily held back with that technique.  I'd like to add for safety sake, just like your firearm, get used to selecting the off switch(safety) after drilling a hole. You don't want that blade spinning when you don't want it spinning.
Definitely the best Drill Deal this year.

What if you are a lefty?

[slipperybob]

What if you are a lefty?

LOL...look in mirror and copy that.

or do what they always tell left handed, goofy footed people.  Do like everybody else!

[3300]

What if you are a lefty?

then do what frank said to do if you use strikemaster or buy a nils and hold the drill next to your body.

[3300]

Well I checked my old Milwaukee (# 0624-20) and the clutch does indeed function in both drill/hammer modes.

so you are able to stop the chuck's rotation while in drill mode? sounds defective.

[lefty2053]

OK lefty,I resemble that. Never have any problems using all the right handed tools. I actually Bowl Right handed. Throw a ball right handed,Throw Frisbee's right or left,Eat Left,write left,shift the car Right(I just find it easier).

[Icemole]

so you are able to stop the chuck's rotation while in drill mode? sounds defective.

 I've owned 2 of that model Milwaukee and both worked the same(don't remember the old 12v but I think it was the same).... Clutch is adjustable low # to higher # - the lower the number the quicker the clutch disengages the chuck. Pretty sure the "company" Dewalts of that time also worked the same whether in drill or hammer.